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RAKAPOSHI NW Spur is one of the greatest challenges for the contemporary mountaineering. With its 4000 m drop and 7 km of probable development, it is for climbers one of the most impressive structures that can be climbed on great mountains on Earth. Indeed, NW Spur, from the orographic point of view, keeps an absolute records; it is, being a spur, that is a mountain structure with a distinguished and coherent shape from the base to the top [differently from the ridge that can have intermediate summits], the "longest spur of the world".

For five years we have collected material for giving foundation to our possibility of climb the mountain. Possibility that is based on the hypothesis to penetrate on the unexplored Masot glacier and to directly tackle the spur on ice and snow.

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Òeam-and-project leader - Alberto Peruffo

 

Rakaposhi NW Spur

History

RAKAPOSHI NW Spur is one of the greatest challenges for the contemporary mountaineering. With its 4000 m drop and 7 km of probable development, it is for climbers one of the most impressive structures that can be climbed on great mountains on Earth. Indeed, NW Spur, from the orographic point of view, keeps an absolute records; it is, being a spur, that is a mountain structure with a distinguished and coherent shape from the base to the top [differently from the ridge that can have intermediate summits], the "longest spur of the world".

So imposing that few climbers have tried to climb its difficult flanks.

In 1987 an expedition guided from the expert German mountaineer Hubert Bleicher, first climber on two other colossus of Hunza Valley, Shispare (7611 m) and Batura I (7795 m), was arrested in front of what was defined by friends "an unbelievable challenge", one incredible [or inconceivable?] challenge.

In 2001 a French expedition with young protagonists of the French mountaineering, Manu Pellisser and Manu Guy, did not go very far black cliffs that leaded to suspended glaciers of the spur.

Bad weather and objective difficulties of the spur, not easy to conciliate with the alpine and light style of modern expeditions, were between the primary causes of the failure.

To make a dream come true, and to make it a project, you must demonstrate its realizability, in spite of the objective difficulties, the immeasurable incognito and the history already written.

For five years we have collected material for giving foundation to our possibility of climb the mountain. Possibility that is based on the hypothesis to penetrate on the unexplored Masot glacier and to directly tackle the spur on ice and snow.

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