Mountain.RU - information sponsor of Kukurtlu expedition in December 1999.
Expedition sponsors: Moscow federation of Mountaineering and Rock climbing, Red Fox company - manufacturer of outdoor equipment.
|Climb > Kukurtlu 1999 >|
Brief information about the
In the list of the most difficult routes of the former Soviet union Kavkaz is represented by the only route of the highest "6B" grade - Kukurtlu NW wall, Lukashvili route (1981).
In early autumn 1999 a team of climbers from Moscow, Russia, leaded by Alexander Abramov, settled a base camp near the basement of Kukurtlu NW wall, Kavkaz.
Members of autumn 1999 Moscow team,
Lukashvili route, 6B difficulty:
It took 6 difficult days for the above team to climb 20 pitches to the summit of Kukurtlu (4,639 m / 15,220 ft). All these days they spent on a portaledge (platform). One pair of climbers was moving up, others were lifting the portaledge and haul-bags. The weather was not stable - snowing, raining.
It may seem that the climb in autumn was the most difficult enterprise possible, but it is not. That climb of the most difficult route in Kavkaz was only the beginning - getting ready for a new, more difficult route. Kukurtlu is planned to become the second wall in the project "Great walls in winter" (the first was Ak-Su N face in winter 1998/99, the most difficult wall of Pamir-Alaj). Alexander Abramov and his team members are going to scale Kukurtlu NW wall in winter (December 1999). But it will not be the same route as in autumn 1999. The December climb will be a new route, to the right from the existing one, across the center of the wall, through cornieces and overhangs, which are difficult in summer, to say nothing about winter conditions.
Members of December 1999 Moscow team,
new route, 6B difficulty:
Mountain.RU is informational sponsor of December expedition. With a help of Iridium sattelite phone, provided by operator Iridium-Eurasia, up-to date information about team's progress on the wall will be received and published daily on www.Mountain.RU. Our visitors will be the first to know news about the expedition. The information will be published both as text, and audio (RealAudio).
Below is a foto gallery of the previous
(autumn 1999) expeditions on the NW wall of Kukurtlu.
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