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Author: Jury Koshelenko
Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Whether Miss Fame is so bad?

Golden thing Gladiators and Clowns d`or.
- Part 1

- Part 2
Piolet d'Or -2006
16 Piolet d’Or-2007

Marko is an excellent climber but, first of all, he is the magnetic personality. Therefore any his statement has a force among international mountaineering community.

I am quite agreeable with everything he said, but without grotesque.

It seems to me you don't need to be a Solomon to understand that any race breeds competition and brings a split of mountaineering community. And the main thing is not the cheap glory gained on the back of scandal around of your climbing activity but the honor, skill and entropy release that provide a sound basis for development of mountaineering. All the strengths and weaknesses of competitions are well-known for us on Ex-USSR and Russian championships.

I would like to note that the "Piolet D'or" avoids usual pitfalls specific for our competitions, but, of course, gets its own subjectivity.

Meanwhile, it is an international meeting of climbers too that helps to understand each other better, to discover their ideas to the general audience.

The choice of jury is not always faultless, but, generally speaking, this competition is a reflection of the processes occurring in modern mountaineering.

"Piolet d'Or" has its radical idea. The lead organizers consider that ideally it should determinate the foundation for the next step forward of the world mountaineering, and, thus, pretends to be the main award in this field. Certainly, it irritates many people and causes criticism.

There is such showdown of opinions, sometimes in strong language, when people argue trying to get their view points over to their adherents and opponents.

It is a law of the dialectic. I think when the competition depletes its resources, it will die without aid but for a while it is a certain reference point for many people.

Marko is an experienced climber of a high level of evolution, but his present thoughts has matured not in a flash.

I knew him since 1998. He won his first "Piolet d'Or" in 1991, was present at the nomination in winter 2002 too and I do not remember him to show such uncooperative altitude in such extreme form to the competitive accent of the “Piolet d'Or”.

It's clear, that his joined-up thinking has come to matureness recently. As for me there is no sense to refuse in this or another evolution and to the less skilled climbers because mountaineering is not only external, but also internal development. Anyway, thanking the “Piolet d'Or ” now we know about Marko's position shown at the competition, and he consciously used this tribune to inform his ideas up to the public.

"Climbers of the world unite!" sounds good, but "competitions" sounds bad. Желающие запустить игровые аппараты вдали от дома могут сделать это, имея планшет, смартфон. Заходить на сайт можно в дороге, находясь в пробке, на природе, а также в любом другом месте, где есть подключение к сети. Возможность оставаться на связи с обожаемыми слотами предоставляет плей фортуна рабочее зеркало . Она сохраняет функционал всех доступных для полной версии возможностей. Установив ее на любой современный гаджет, можно получить доступ к сайту без привязки к определенному месту.

Now let's look at the problem from another angle of view. Whether it is possible to cut the competition aspect from the "Piolet d'Or" and leave only a festival - meeting, without awarding of the main prize? Will it gain something or will lose?

Would climbers need such tribune to open their values to the wide audience? Whether it is better to take a position of a certain elite which is secret to anybody except for the "exclusive club":

Serenely let us move to distant places
And let no sentiments of home detain us.
The Cosmic Spirit seeks not to restrain us
But lifts us stage by stage to wider spaces.
Hermann Hesse.

The Zen Ideal is a man that lives in the world, but remains internally unimpaired from the world. Personally for me the idea to do your own bit in mountaineering aspiring to quality of realization, honesty, nobleness and not caring about glory is very kindred but if you became famous you can share your gains and philosophy with other people.


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