Guidebook Sokol (sector 1) P.S. Guidebook Sokol P.S.

Sector 2
(Southern Wall)

“Khokhla along the mirrors” 5B [№14]
( Kruglenko, “Khokhol”)

Khokhla along the mirrors, second rope.

R0-R1: 50 meters long, 6b, A1. You have to climb upwards along the crack via characteristic tree, then to the left and up to an accurate motion to the left to spit. After it there is skyhook (hole) strip. Station has to be made on the bolt and hooks.

R1-R2: 50- 55 meters , 6b, A1. Climbing up and a little bit to the left along the system of cracks up to the bolt, with the help of it you should come out to flattering, further traverse up and to the right (via the bolt) without any opportunity to organize the belay for 12- 15 meters up to the crack. Climbing up along it. Station has to be made in a small interior angle on your own equipment. In the photo there is the left variant. We have no information about the right variant (the variant of pioneers).

R2-R3: 40 meters long, 6a. Climbing up along the overgrown crack, the cornice should be rounded to the left, belay can be organized with the help of local and your own hooks, station has to be made a little bit below the lean-to block-plate on two hooks.

R3-R5: ? Climb there and send the deion to us. :-) It seemed that author's variant goes straight upwards but we didn't find logical way up and went to the left.

Recommended equipment:

Rope 50- 60 meters long, set of nuts and cam devices, 20 quickdraws, hammers, different hooks, 2 big and 3-4 small loops, 3 flights of stairs, skyhooks, including hole ones.

General impressions:

Good battle route of 5B grade of difficulty. It looks like the route of 6 grade of difficulty more for its laboriousness. There are no easy or difficult ropes, each rope requires hard work. Time of passing the route by average two-man team equals 7-9 hours. In winter the route requires two days of work,… and we were passing it during two days.

“White triangular” 5A grade of difficulty [№15]

R-R1: 50 meters long, 6b+ or A0 along countless bolts and hooks. Station has to be made on three bolts (one of them has ring for descent) in a small interior angle.

R1-R2: 40- 45 meters long, 5b. Belay can be organized with the help of bolts. Station can be made on a small ledge on the lean-to lock on two bolts and a hook.

R2-R3: 40 meters long, 5a+. Belay can be organized with the help of bolts and hooks + with your own points. Station can be made on the bolts above the small tree.

R3-R4: 40 meters long, 5c. Belay can be organized with the help of bolts and hooks. Station can be made on three bolts in dilative crack.

R4-R5: 30- 35 meters long, 6a. Belay can be organized with the help of bolts + if it is necessary with your own points on approach to the overhang. Station can be made on the plateau on the comfortable juniper near the edge of mountain pasture.

Recommended equipment:

Rope 50 meters long, set of nuts and cam devices, 16-18 quickdraws, 3 big and 1-2 small loops, 2-3 flights of stairs.

General impressions:

Good alpinistic route broken by excessive amount of stationary bolts. The key rope is the first one. Time of passing the route by average two-man team equals 2-4 hours.

Bodun 5B-6A [ № 16]
( Sergeev, “Communist”)

Bodun, the first rope.

R0-R1: 25- 30 meters long, 6c, A2+. Even interesting plate climbing using self-made points of rest with strips of free-climbing of 5c-6c grade of difficulty. On the first meters there is an opportunity to fall down to the belayer. After the second bolt (the third) you have to make traverse to the right to an unnoticeable hook, from it climb up, in the direction of the left side of the cornice. Station should be made on two bolts.

R1-R2: 25- 30 meters long, 5b, A0. Moving with the help of bolts and hooks up to the left corner of the cornice, then traverse up and to the right with your own belay. Station has to be made on two bolts and a hook.

R2-R3: 35 meters long, 5b. Climbing up along the overgrown crack, then motion to the left along the plate for 3- 5 meters up to the small interior angle. There you should organize your own belay + bolts and hooks. Station can be made in a small interior angle on two bolts and a hook.

R3-R4: 50 meters long. 5b. Belay can be organized with the help of bolts and hooks + with your own points. Station has to be made on the bolt and a hook in the interior angle.

Bodun, the second rope.

R4-R5: 30- 35 meters long, 6a. Station in the interior angle below the overhanging wall.

R5-R6: 25 meters long, 6c. Climbing along the overhanging (two bolts), further accurate climbing upwards, station should be made in the eyebrow of the mountain pasture on two bolts.

Recommended equipment:

Rope 50 meters long, set of nuts and cam devices, small and middle nuts are very useful, 20 quickdraws, 2 big and 3-4 small loops, 3 flights of stairs, hammers, different hooks, wire ropes, karabiners like “Irbis” (for small ears of bolts), relief skyhooks.

General impressions:

Good battle route of 5B grade of difficulty with the first rope of 6 grade of difficulty. Time of passing the route by average two-man team equals 6-8 hours. The route doesn't allow you to have rest from the first to the last meter.

“Comma” 4B-5A [№17]

R0-R1: 45 meters long, 6a+. Start is located to the left from the characteristic flushing. Belay can be organized with the help of bolts + your own points. Station should be made on two bolts on the sloping ledge up and to the right from the chimney.

R1-R2: 50 meters long, 6a. Belay can be organized with the help of bolts + your own points. Station should be made on two bolts on the plate before the traverse.

R2-R3: 45 meters long, 5b. Natural belay along the right side of the interior angle. Station has to be made on the tree.

R3-R4: 45 meters long, 5c. Belay can be organized with the help of your own points + sometimes bolts can be come across. Station can be made on two bolts and a hook.

R4-R5: 35 meters , left variant – 5c. Belay is your own and sometimes you can use local hooks. Right variant is a little bit easier. Station can be made on the tree on the plateau.

There is one more variant of the route – when start is to the right from the flushing. In this case the strip is 6b, A0-A1.

Recommended equipment:

Rope 50 meters long, set of nuts and cam devices, 14-16 quickdraws, 3 big and 3-4 small loops, 2 flights of stairs, hammer, hooks can be useful.

General impressions:

Strong 4B (weak 5A), requires high level of climbing. There are many places where it is necessary to climb on rubbing. The key rope is the first one and the beginning of the second.

“ White Square ” 5 B -6 A [№18]
(Shelkhakov – D. Popov, January 2001)

R0-R1: 50 meters long, 6a. Interesting free-climbing with organizing natural belay. Sometimes you can come across bolts and hooks. Station has to be made on a bolt above the tree on the ledge.

R1-R2: 50 meters long, 6c, A2-. Good hard-working rope, where climbing with self-made points of rest is changed by free-climbing. Station has to be made on two bolts on the ledge to the right from the small tree.

R2-R3: 45 meters long, 5c. Easy plate climbing, a lot of strip are passed on rubbing, belay can be organized with the help of bolts. Station should be made on the tree.

R3-R4: 45 meters long, 6a+. Plate climbing, a lot of strip are passed on rubbing, belay can be organized with the help of bolts. Station should be made on three bolts on a small ledge to the right from black flash.

R4-R5: 50 meters long, 6b+. Rather difficult plate climbing, belay can be organized on the bolts + sometimes using your own points. Station can be made on the “mini-ledge” on two bolts (one above another).

R5-R6: 35 meters long, 6b+. Dangerous traverse to the right and up to the cornice with crossing it up to an interior angle (the bolt is hammered in the eyebrow of the cornice, so it can not been seen from downwards, further there is easier climbing with organizing belay. Station can be made on the ledge just below white square on two bolts.

R6-R7: 25 meters long, 5c+. Climbing upwards across small overhang and coming out to the plateau along an easy interior angle. Station has to be made on the plateau on one of the trees there.

Recommended equipment:

Rope 50- 60 meters long, double set of nuts and cam devices, 20 quickdraws, 3 big and 3-4 small loops, 4 flights of stairs (for the leader and for the second member of the team), hammer, hooks are necessary (5-6 items), skyhooks are desirable, they can make your life easier on the second rope.

Winter on the Sokol.

General impressions:

Normal route of 6 grade of difficulty, like “Center” on Morchek for its level, but it is a little bit shorter. It is more difficult than “Verba” on Tchelebi. The second and the last but one ropes are key one (good ropes of the 6 grade of difficulty). Time of passing the route by average two-man team equals 6 hours. In the upper part of the route (5-6 ropes) it is difficult to see bolts! In the whole, the route is very logical and satiated with beautiful climbing.