Lenin Peak. Part 1

2.4. Routes, Base camps.

Routes to the peak of Lenin.

Probably, many alpinists think that the more ascents are made to the summit, the easier of access the mountain is. But this statement is erroneous and even dangerous.

“Onion field”

“Onion field”

On the one hand, the Peak of Lenin is really one of the most accessible summits higher than 7000 m on the Earth concerning approaches to it. The character of the ascent doesn’t require using difficult technical alpinistic devices and meteorological conditions are favorable in most cases. But nevertheless the history of ascents to the Peak of Lenin knows unsuccessful attempts.

Base Camp a little bit lower than International Alpinistic Center.

Unsuccessful attempts have to be connected with bad weather, low content of oxygen, low temperatures, and, partly, insufficient preparedness of the teams themselves. Snow slopes of the Peak of Lenin from the South as well as from the North can be dangerous for avalanches.

18 routes have been passed to the Peak of Lenin. 9 of them were made on the Northern side and 9 – on the Southern side of the Peak. The most popular routes start from the valley Achik-Tash (the Alai valley), where former International Alpinistic Center was located.

The beginning of almost all the routes from the North the Base Camp (BC), situated on the “Onion field” or a little bit lower – on the “Field of edelweiss”.

The International Alpinistic Center is closed nowadays, but sometimes rare groups of alpinists stay there. Earth road goes up to the “Onion field” 93800 m), where the path, leading to the first high-altitude camp, begins. Base camps of many expeditions are located here from July to August every year.

In the Base camp it is possible to buy gas, some provision, engage a porter or a horse for carrying cargos, and have supper in extemporaneous canteens in yurts.

Routes to the Peak of Lenin from the North

Certainly, all the services are more expensive there than downwards. For example, one gas-cylinder for high-altitude camps can come to more than 6$, and breakfast for one person costs about 5$. But it is always possible to bargain.

In general, “Onion field” is rather interesting place, where different alpinists from different countries can meet together. The entire field is covered with tents and yurts, and when the weather is fine you can feel cosy there.

Below you can find the list of routes with deion of direction of the first ascents, surname of the leader and year of the ascent.

1. Via the rock of Lipkin, along the Northern edge. According to the classifier: Peak of Lenin 5a ice-snow, counterfort, rock of Lipkin. 2. Via the rock of Lipkin, above the icefall with going out to the western edge. It is not mentioned in the classifier. 3. Traverse from the West to the East via the peak Razdelnaya and descent along the rock of Lipkin. According to the classifier: Razdelnaya – Peak of Lenin 5a ice-snow, traverse. 4. Through the pass Krilenko and descent along the rock of Lipkin. It is not mentioned in the classifier. 5. From the North “straight forward”. According to the classifier: Peak of Lenin 5a ice-snow, from the North “straight forward”. 6. Via the summit “5547” to the Eastern edge. According to the classifier: Peak of Lenin 5a combined along the Northern edge via the rocky outcrop (complex). 7. From the canyon Tashkugei, to the summit Razdelnaya (6148) with descent along the rock of Lipkin. According to the classifier: 5100 – Peak of Lenin 5a combined traverse. 8. From the circus of the glacier of Lenin the Eastern along the highest, from the pass of Krilenko, edge. It is not mentioned in the classifier. 9. From the circus of the glacier of Lenin the Eastern along the second from the pass of Krilenko, edge. It is not mentioned in the classifier.

K. Chernuha, (USSR, 1934) V. Racek (USSR, 1955) V. Kovalev (USSR, 1954) V. Cheredova (USSR, 1960) Y. Arkin (USSR, 1960) Y. Skurlatov (USSR, 1967) N. Shabanova (USSR, 1970) R. Benua (France, 1974) S. Duog (Great Britain, 1974)

Routes to the Peak of Lenin from the South.