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Author Budyansky Michael, Moscow

 

Mountains Fanskie
The information before a season

Part 2 (Part 1)


1. Fanskie Mountains
2. Variants of arrivals
3. Formalities
4. Mountaineering Camp
"Alaudin"

5. Tops, cols, routes in Fans
6. The conclusion

3.3. Local tax fee

Till now there is the regulation of National Company Tadzhikturizm, which nowadays is called Sayox, about local tax fee for visiting area of Fanskie Mountains. According regulation, officially each tourist from Russia and the countries CIS should pay: 25 dollars for person - for visiting of the area and 0.5 dollars for person in a day - ecological gathering. We every year try to reduce these sums at least at the official level, but it is not possible to solve this problem completely. Usually they try to take this payment from groups in Pendzhikent. However for some years we have an arrangement, that the payment is collected from groups in mountains, on "Alaudin". I have to specify that these gathering are NOT collected with "Vertical" or its representative, bur the official representative of the National Company. In addition the local administration of Ayininsky area in which territory Fans are also settled down, collects own tax fee for using local natural resources. As to say easier - the local timber enterprise established certain sums, which they gather from groups on a place. The sums each time is vary and can be discussed right on a place with the head of the group.

3.4. Local population

Here are all things simple. In Asia especially, the locals are very sociable, hospitable, kind and smile. If you call on them, a tea and a flat cake, at least, is always provided to you. Though they live extremely poorly. It is possible and it is necessary to be friends with them. We call everyone who goes in Fans, to help them as you can. Every year we collect from our cases - mezzanines some clothes, footwear from which our children and we have grown, medicines, books and other things. Especially locals require in warm clothes and rubber footwear in which they go practically the whole year. Near "Alaudin" there is a refuge where shepherds live in the summer with all their families. You can buy milk, cheese, and flat cakes at them. It helps them to hold on too. Certainly, the children can behave like hooligan little, but it is not strong also even cheerfully.

4. Mountaineering Camp "Alaudin"


Cottages of "Alaudin"

In famous 1991 year the Moscow Company "Vertical" put in pawn bases of new camp in Fanskie Mountains on a glade near the refuge below the Great Alaudinskoe Lake. It was pondered as a high-grade camp of rest in mountains, with an infrastructure, a restaurant, etc. In connection with well-known events, the construction was delayed for some years and we had to correct the project reducing it up to a possible minimum. In 1995 the Camp accepted the first clients - the Japanese climbers who with pleasure stayed there for 20 days, ascending only on three instead of ten planned tops. On a question - " Why? " They reasonably answered: "And what for? Here it is very-very good for us!" At present on the Camp, which we named International Mountaineering-tourist Center "Alaudin", there are:

  • Three two-storeyed cottages. In each cottage: three rooms - one room small with one bed, but it is possible to put the second additional bed, two big rooms with four beds, the beds are wooden with mattresses and bed-linen, one toilet with a normal, excuse me, toilet bowl and the water drain, the Israeli electric heater of water with Atmor shower.

  • Our mountain restaurant and our Doctor Rakhmat-boy, the kind-hearted person, and his wife Sabira. She is able to cook practically from anything fine dishes and if there is from what to cook - it will be that more delicious, than at restaurants in city.
    Our "mountain restaurant" with a kitchen and a gas cooker on which our "master- chef" prepares wonderful pilaff and many different dishes. The restaurant is combined from stones and its walls you can use as a rocky simulator. The windows, doors, a ceiling are decorated with wonderful woodcarving.
  • Two diesel generators usually torn on in the morning and in the evening, but it is possible to agree to turn them on in the time you slandered. They give electricity for small houses (light and Atmor shower), for the restaurant (light) and the lanterns at the territory of the camp.
  • There are also the platforms for installation of tent camp
  • A boulder of 5 meters in height that can be used as a rocky simulator.


That training stone is real "mini - artificial climbing wall", on a backside of it there is a smooth wall with five crimpers, which not everyone would climb...
Unfortunately, our plans to make the high-grade camp were not put into practice, and most likely in the near future will be failed. On the Camp our representative Rufina Grigorjevna Arefyev works. She is the master of sports in the mountaineering, and has gone the majority of the routes in Fans. She loves and knows Fans. She has the right to let out groups on routes. She can give any consultations about the routes. You can also make use of the library of descriptions of climbing routes. It is a marvel that it is still safe and sound. But there is no opportunity to organize the high-grade structure of the mountaineering camp with corresponding staff, equipment, rescue group etc. All the same it is the another's country, and it is at 3 hectares of the Moscow ground there. We ask you to have it in a kind at the organization of your travel in Fans.

We suggest:

  • The transport for delivery of groups from Samarkand, Tashkent, Khodzhent directly to IMTC "Alaudin" and back, and also in / from any point of Fanskie mountains under the preliminary arrangement,
  • Purchase of products during carrying out of your expeditions if you have something run out of,
  • Accommodation of "groups of support" in structure of wives - girl-friends-children in cottages,
  • Feeding at the mountain restaurant,
  • Refuelling of gas bags for torches,
  • Consultations about the routes,
  • Organization of drovers with donkeys for carrying of cargoes to the base camps settled upper then "Alaudin" camp or in other valleys.
  • Carrying out trekking. We will give a guide, donkeys and drovers for carrying things, tent.

In our plans there is a building of mini hydro-electric power-station.

Every year we help a local collective farm at own expense to clean the road and to repair bridges, which always are brought away at high waters.

"Alaudin" is located very conveniently both for ascending, and for carrying out of campaigns.


A view from the route of ascending on Laudin Col on the glade where IMTC "Alaudin" is situated and a valley of the Chapdara river up to the Mutnyie lakes.

"Alaudin" is located in a valley of the Chapdara River. It is the right inflow of the Pasrud River, in 30 mines of trekking downward from the Great Alaudinskoe Lake, exact under the Alaudin top. From the Camp "Alaudin":

  • No more than 4-4,5 hours up to the upper reaches of the valley of the Chapdara river with Mutnyie lakes (3200) (after 3-4 days of acclimatization this distance is passed for 2,5-3 hours),
  • No more than hour under Bodkhona glacier,
  • One hour of the gangway under the Mt.Chapdara,
  • 3 hours (for acclimatized tourists) to the Alaudin Col or the Laudan Col for the gangway in Kulikalonskaya valley.

The Site of a topographical map of the area of the Mt. Chimtarga and IMTC "Alaudin"

The larger map of the valley of Chapdara river here

So, being based on IMTC "Alaudin", you can practically go on 70 % of routes of the area.

We usually settle the Base Camps:

  • On the Great Alaudinskoe lake (four - five places),
  • On Mutnyie lakes (there can be settled five - six camps),
  • On Kulikalonskie lakes (five - six camps.

Ecology.

There was the time when Mountains Fanskie were very popular area for ascents, carrying out of campaigns, and even for carrying out of trade-union campaigns on easy routes. I remember the times when a note on cols handing, instead of being hidden in the cairn! For all those years there have been accumulated a lot of tins in mountains. These mountains of tins are not simply spoil a kind, and are not simply unpleasant - they are as a silent reproach, as a shame to all of us! Each season we ask climbers at their descending to collect certain amount of the tins which can will be placed in their backpacks and to bring it in the camp, to help to clear these fine mountains. Then we bring these tins downward where they can be utilized. Unfortunately, the local authorities do not want to be engaged in this, and in the near future will not be. We call everyone who will arrive in Fans (actually, it can concerns not only to Fans), feasibly to help with cleaning long-term heaps of tins and other garbage. And not leaving the dust after yourself, now to speak and warn is somehow indecently, so it became normal for our generation of climbers and tourists travelling in the Alpes, the Himalayas, Pyrenees and also Andes and Cordilleras and seeing the attitude to the nature in these areas.

5. Tops, cols, routes in Fans

Unfortunately, we don't have particularly the descriptions of all climbing and tourist routes in digital. For acquaintance with detailed descriptions you have to address in special libraries (where they are still accessible). Below I shall give a brief information on opportunities of the area, some photos and Internet references, where you can find some descriptions of routes of ascents and campaigns.


A view on the on a top site of a classical route on Mt. Chimtarga from the top of Mirali Peak

The Panorama of Chimtarga and the Energy, taken off from the route of ascent on Mt. Zamok. Between them - the Chimtarga Col, 4600.

5.1. Tops


Beauty Chimtarga. You can see the side-view of the whole classical route.

5.1.1. The highest point of mountains Fanskie is beauty Chimtarga, 5487m.

There is a simple classical route on Chimtarga (2), which starts from Mutnyie lakes and goes through the Avlodon Col (3*, but it is unilateral and it is climbed on the simple side, on simple foots, and further on the ridge of Kulikalonskaya Wall through Mirali Peak and on a snow dome to the top.

The route is perfectly seen on a photo. On this the photo are visible also the other routes on east slopes of Chimtarga.

They are schematically given at Vladimir Kopylovs site:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/kopylov/pict/chimt.gif

On a photo you can see the Chimtarga Col, 4600m, and a southern slope of Chimtarga.

Schematically at Kopylov's site:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/kopylov/pict/chim_s.gif

Some photos of Chimtarga:


A view from the top of Chimtarga on Mutnyie lakes. "Spaces" for base camps are visible well.

A view from the top of Chimtarga aside the valley of the river Zindon (to the West). You can see the lake Big Hallo.

A view on the Southern Face of Chimtarga from the Kaznok Col.

Passage of a crux on a route from the Southern-East . Only recently I found out, that it was 5B-graded (at Vladimir Kopylov), but I always thought, that it was no more difficult than 4B, as any special difficulties for myself I did not found there (well, I just was not located in this crack)

 

Unfortunately I has not found a photo of Chimtarga from the West (from Big Hallo Lake). If someone has got it - send me, please.


The beginning of a route is taken off from the Talbas Col, "eyes" of a frog are visible from above

The North-West Face of Chapdara looking directly on Alaudinskie lakes

Under the North-West Face of Chapdara, at the beginning of routes on the Wall.

5.1.2 Mt. Chapdara, 5050m

Simple routes is not present there. The most simple route passes on the Northern ridge from the Talbas Col. Due to the characteristic needle reminding the Sphynx in profile, this route was named "Sphynx", 5. But in a fullface the top part reminds a frog very much. The North-West Wall is well-known for one of the most complex routes in the area - Solonika, 6B, through a "book".

The Topo at Kopylov:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/pict/g5.gif

The North-East Wall of Chapdara represents 1500m verticals, there are routes of 5B-6A here.

The Topo at Kopylov:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/kopylov/pict/chap_e.gif

 

 

5.1.3 Bodkhona, 5138m.


The Northern Wall of Bodkhona taken off from the Talbas Col, that there is under Chapdara "Sphynx".

There aren't simple routes too. The Western Face - a bastion in height of 1000m, towering above Bodkhona glacier is most interesting and attractive. Here exactly there are the routes of 6-grade. For an ascent on the Western Wall you have to go from "Alaudin" beforehand on a glacier (about 2 hours with a cargo) and to settle a base camp on a glacier in a safe place.

The Topo at Kopylov:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/kopylov/pict/bodkh2.gif

I don't have any data about the North wall.

 

Photo:


A view of the Western Wall of Bodkhona from behind of a turn from Chapdara valley on Bodkhona glacier.

Bodkhona, Western Face in all her magnificence

And here what Western Face on a dawn also calls: it is time for ascending!

 

5.1.4. Zamok, 5070m


On the photo, which was taken off from Chimtarga, all the routes, and also the Western Face of Zamok, is perfectly seen.

It is one of few tops having a simple ascending route, a fine variant for acclimatization. The approach under the route begins from Mutnyie lakes on a talus and a conglomerate under a glacier, then on a glacier with overcoming a simple bergschrund before an exit on a summit ridge. The ridge so is wide, and longer, that reminds a football field.

 


The Western Face of Zamok in a fullface and bastion of Parandas in profile.

The Western Wall extends on a kilometer and looks aside Mutnyie lakes. It is an object of pleasant climbing on warm rocks.

The Topo at Kopylov:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/kopylov/pict/zamok_w.gif

Northern and northeast slopes form gorge together with western Wall of Bodkhona.

There are the routes of 5-grade going on diretissima.

The Topo at Kopylov:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/kopylov/pict/zamok_n.gif

The most complex route 6 passes on the Wall of Parandas with the following traverse to the Northern Ridge of Zamok.


Three the most complex 5000-mountains in Fans together, it is taken off from Laudan Col.

5.1.2-3-4

Look at a photo on the left: all three most complex 5000- mountains in Fans together.

 

5.1.5. Kulikalonskaya Wall


A view of Kulikalonskaya Wall is taken off from Dyushahi lakes, taking place directly under it. You descend to them after passing Alaudin, Shogun-Aga and Adamtash Cols.

A side-view of Kulikalonskaya Wall, it is taken off from Alaudin Col.

It is the Wall from the big letter. The Northern orientation defines its character. It is always cold; it is crossed with hanging glaciers, increasing complexity of ascending routes going to Mirali Peak practically vertically. And the route on a left edge was done by American Law and it is a route of ascending on Avlodon Col, 3*, gone by tourists only once.

Kopylov's Topo:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/kopylov/pict/maria.gif

 


The Northern Ridge of Energy beginning from Chimtarga Col, taken off from the point of ascending route on Chimtarga.

5.1.6 Energy, 5120m

The simplest route begins with Chimtarga Col and passes on northern ridge, 2.


A habitual view of Adamtash from "Alaudin" camp.

A view of Adamtash from Alaudinskie lakes.

5.1.7. Adamtash, 4700m

You can constantly see the rocky tower of Adamtash staying at "Alaudin" and it becomes a habitual view here.

The classical route (4B) begins from Adamtash Col which you can ascend climbing from a small lake Piala for one and a half hour and then the route passes on Northern ridge.


The northwest face of Adamtash which is taken off from Adamtash Col in profile. It Impresses!

Kopylov's Topo:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/kopylov/pict/adamtsh.gif

The Northwest face with its vertical site extended on a kilometer presents more interest. There are two routes of 6-grade.

Kopylov's Topo:
http://eru.tubank.msk.su/kopylov/kopylov/pict/maria.gif

A Panorama of 5000-mountains taken off from the top of Chimtarga:


From the left to the right: Chapdara-Zamok-The Great Hansa.

It is not full list of all tops and routes. More than two hundred routes it is gone, and probably no fewer routes wait for their pioneers.

5.2. Cols

Here I do not have opportunity to describe all cols, which are gone in Fanskie Mountains. A lot of them are from non-graded up to the most complicated 3B. Accordingly, in Fans it is possible to construct the routes of sports hikes of any complexity.

The most popular cols:

  • Connects Alaudiny with Kulikalony: Laudan (non-graded), Alaudin (1), Shogun-Aga and Adamtash (1B).
  • A pleasant ringlet - Alaudiny - Laudan Col - Kulikalony (rest, walks) - Alaudin Col or Shogun-Aga.
  • Connects Alaudiny-Mutnyie lakes to a valley of the river Zindon, lake Hallo: Chimtarga Col (4600m, 1B), Mirali Col (3). From Mirali Col it is possible to ascend radially on the top of Chimtaoga. From Hallo Lake along the river Zindon tourists descend to Archimaidan.
  • Ringlet for the five: Alaudiny-Mutnyie lakes-Chimtarga Col-Hallo (rest, walks)-Mirali Col - Chimtarga Top -radially descents through Avlodon Col to Mutnyie lakes.
  • Connects Alaudiny-Mutnyie lakes to the river Arg and further to Iskanderkul: cols Kaznok (1B), V (1B).
  • A good variant of ending your campaign is to reach Iskanderkul and to departure from there.
  • Connects Alaudiny with the Surkhob River. (It flows from a glacier on the northern slope of Bodkhona) - Talbas Col and Chapdara Col (non-graded).
  • Further it is possible to continue through Surkhob Col (1) to a valley of the river Imat (It is a very much beautiful valley with birchwoods).
  • I should note the cols of 3-grade such as Olympic (3B), the Block (3), Kuybishevsky (3), Zhiguli (3), Maria (3B), Enisei (3B), Adidzhi (3), Imat (3) and the Saddle of Chapdara (3B), and mentioned already Avlodon (3B *). All Cols are mixed and you are enable to work both on rocks, and on ice sites.

There are also a lot of other variants, which are impossible to list all here. To tell the truth because of the compactness of area sometimes you have to artificial extend a route of a campaign for setting necessary kilometers. However, If you pay attention of technical complexity of Cols, Fans in this sense is simply ideal place for carrying out campaigns of all categories. Unfortunately, on the Internet there are not enough reports on expeditions in Fanskie Mountains. But I tried also to give sufficient impression and the information on tourist opportunities in this area.

6. The conclusion

Come in Fans! They are waiting for you!

Come:
1. For ascending
2. With climbing gathering
3. For carrying out of hikes
4. For carrying out trainings after schools of tourist preparation
5. For trekking
6. With families, friends, familiar simply to rest in this fine Place.

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