Authors Ilya Rylskiy, Belousov Vladimir,
- Three Years of Oblivion
The road or how to organize a caravan. Part 2
To reach the Karavshin settlement designated almost on all maps
takes 2 hours of trekking from the upper apricots orchard: in
1948-1950 the inhabitants were moved downwards "with the
purpose of improvement of conditions of a life ".
Nowadays there are some tens of destroyed houses or their frames
here. At merge of the rivers Ak-su and the Kara-su, a little higher
than the former settlement, two or three families lodge in a small
shacks in a kilometre away: we can see a cattle, small sites of
the processed ground. Even upper, in the Kara-su, shepherds live
with their families in the summer.
The great bulk of a cargo usually goes on donkeys. The donkey
carries 50-60 kg; if the inhabitants say that to load so much
is impossible - do not trust, simply they want you to take more
donkeys. A pack luggage is: or 2 backpacks on 30 kg, or 3 on 20
kg; it usually demands to use additional bags which you need to
take with yourself beforehand. The horse carries approximately
the same weight.
The inhabitants, basically, can offer any bags or saddlebags,
but it is necessary to remember exactly well where you have put
everything as then the things can "completely disappear".
Don't leave the cargoes without support - as a whole all things
will reach the end of the way, but you will lose something inside
of the reached trunks. We lost 50 meters of ropes in this way.
During the movement it is necessary to change donkeys. Drovers
and donkeys from Vorukh do not more often go further then the
frontier outpost, and shepherds from the upper gorge can not go
below the apricots orchard. On the average the donkeys cost us
800 roubles (from Vorukh up to the Base Camp): here they respect
the Russian money. We guess that it the amount of visitors increase
this price will fall twice.
The descent downwards from the Base Camp to Vorukh can take one
day, but for this purpose it is necessary to arrange that people
with donkeys will meet you near the spring. (4 hours of trekking
from the bottom apricot orchard where a car manages to reach).
Or the car will wait for you near the bridge next to the frontier
The inhabitants quiveringly concern to a rope. You can meet a
donkey in a harness from slings Black Diamond. Plastic bottles,
caps, old backpacks are appreciated. And everyone wants that the
group will present something to him. To satisfy these desires
we recommend you to take about 40meters not thick Kolomna static
rope. Well, and other gifts to inhabitants. Just in case…
A spring is near to the Base Camp
Kara-Su Gorge from a crest of the Asan
We left the Camp in half an
hour of walking upwards from the last bridge over the river. There
are a remarkable glade, a spring with an opportunity of not extreme
bathing here. There is a nice eco-friendly coniferous well and
hot burning wood around. We prepared a dinner and a supper traditionally
on a fire. We met the Germans stretching a short rope passage
of 5-6 meters over the river at 100 meters upper the Camp. To
go over the nearest bridge takes more then an hour. Upper the
Camp there is a comprehensible wall where we organized rocky trainings;
to organize the top belay on it can take a lot of time.
The Kara-Su Gorge is a place
enough occupied. During our stay we met many shepherds and armed
frontier-guards. Except for people, there are too many cows in
the gorge, leaving "such awful things..!" We managed
to agree with shepherds about deliveries of flat cakes, milk,
and other specialities without any problem. It is possible, probably,
and to buy the ram, but we did not try.
Taking all this into consideration,
you would be better don't leave the camp without looking out.
The next gorge, Ak-Su where
the Peaks Slesova, the Bird and other celebrities are located,
is completely without people. The cows we met in woods on the
banks of the river were rather wild; settlements here are not
members and the plans
The Ascents it was planned
to accomplish by 3 independent groups.
The first group: Novikov Alexander,
Belousov Vladimir, Dobrinsky Pavel and Ilya Rylskiy.
The second group: Rutkevich Alexander, Kalyuzhny Veniamin.
The third group: Alferov Ivan, Petrusenko Alyona, Glebova Juliya.
For the warm-up the first group planed to
ascend the "Yellow Wall" Peak via the route of 5À, divided
for independent groups of roped up climbers, in different days.
First of all Belousov-Novikov, after them Dobrinsky- Rylskiy.
Then it was planned to have a rest and ascend Asan via Pogorelov's
route. Further, in the presence of time - to climb something else.
The Gorge Kara-Su
At the same time the second group irrespective of the others should
choose for themselves the object for an ascent of 4A-4B category
for the first 4-5 days, and then they planned to try to summit
the tops of 5À-5B. Further plans blurred in a fog.
The third group under condition of a presence
in the camp the climbers on duty, was going to make some ascents
of 1B-2B for all period.
The Communication between all three groups
was planned to carry out with the help of portable radio stations
"Icom - F21".
2. FOR FRIVOLOUS PEPPERS
brief dictionary of terms and concepts
Cormorant - the climber,
a student of the Bauman Technical University
Shnobel - a nose.
Gryzla - a jaw (the basic part of an oral bread slicer).
Vorch - Grumbling, a process of silent malevolence and
not constructive shaking air.
Khavka - a food material. It is should be used inside.
Kremnezhka - an inadequate pressure of will power with
the purpose of check of a fortress of muscles, bones, gear, etc.
Caen - the boiler.
Dubak - when all is very cold everything are a burden to
do to everybody.
Device - the adaptation, the device, a subject.
Feature - a small device
Hawler- a device for pulling out a trunk: a roller with
a stopper; the same name have the people carrying cargoes on fixed
T-block - a device for rise on a rope (for amateur to replace
excess overweight with a superfluous haemorrhoids).
Megadevice - something possessing wonderful properties.
Examples of megadevices: the Ring of the Power, a jacket from
eider down, the Swiss knife with 52 edges etc.
Titanium hole - a mythical megadevice which, on idea, the
real climber should be equipped.
to reach such life
The winter passed for bauman cool
climbers unsuccessfully - anybody descended nothing: either the
weather in Dombai was bad, or the apportionment in the Himalayas
was wrong. For the prompt treatment of the patient - the bauman
section of mountaineering - it was required to do something. The
consultation of the expert in such things (in the person of Novikov,
Belousov, Dobrinsky) insisted on shock therapy like climbing in
Karavshin and intensive wall-climbing treatment. The most radical
doctors recommended use of strong means - up to the application
of a preparation "4810". It was refused by them: the
patient could even die. The absence of a platform, an experience
and titanium hole was the serious contra-indications against such
As a result we came an arrangement of the recipe:
" Asan, 6A,via Pogorelov's route, 1986, within 3-4 days.
The dosage - how many each patient can accept". Upon that
everything was settled.
Looking back, it is necessary to note, that
a level of the brains filled in skulls of members of section,
is nevertheless too low - somewhere lower their Shnobels and a
little higher their Gryzlas. In a result, the group, ascending
the top of 6-category, was consisted of three second-rank and
one first-rank sportsmen. And a second-rank sportsman Novikov
leaded them. And they had never gone such routes of the 6- category
before. To tell the truth, at separate comrades was already had
done a pair winter routes of 5B like Khan Tengri, and other Peaks
which they unsuccessfully have tried to pass as a test for the
first class of mountaineering.
"Yellow Wall" Peak (a view from
the Base Camp)
"Yellow Wall" Peak (a view from
Asan Peak (a view on the approach to the
A side-view of Asan, Southern-West Face
from Kara-Su glacier
Pavel and Ilya descended yesterday
from "Red wall", 5B stupid exchanged glanced at they
with the sun and a heap of food in the "kitchen", and
warm sleeping bags, where they had just left. After two days of
almost continuous raining, a cold night in a crack in cut rock
and climbing on wet rocks the opportunity to wear only a t-short
on and to bask in the sun seemed any misunderstanding.
Vladimir and Alexander obviously sat too
long in the Camp. Guys beat a hoof - three days of the compelled
idleness already muffled aroma of the laurels fairly earned in
the first day. Then they climbed the same route for 11 hours,
not having any descriptions, except for a photo and own supervision
over the mountain. However the spoiled weather and not fast movements
of Dobrinsky-Rylsky broke the schedule of expedition that had
begun not bad. After having some food material they decided to
expect the gear and prepared it and food for 3-4 days for tomorrow
ascent of 6-category top.
Asan, from the North-West Face
Panorama from "Yellow wall"
Peak: from left to right - Peak of thousandth anniversary
of christenings of Russia, Kotina, 4810, Àsan.
06.00 in the morning, it was too cold outside the tent. Yesterday
we again sat at a fire after midnight. And all of us wanted to
stay in bed. But there isn't any cloud in the sky. All rucksacks
were collected. The weather was ringing: any chance to avoid!
At 8.00 the caravan of four heroes (Dobrinsky, Novikov, Belousov,
Rylsky) and two well-wishers (Julia and Alyona) went out toward
Asan. Constructive ideas were absent. The stomach, not having
understood it was already a breakfast or still a supper, was disturbing
Instead of 2 hours we planned, it took us 4.5
hours to reach the place under a needle we called "Cucumber".
On 06.08 at 12.30 Vladimir and Alexander roped
up began climbing up on the couloir to the top of 180m- rock finger
in the basis of the route. From the side it seemed not bad, but
a fixed ropes did not get up to the wall on some meters for some
reason. By 19.00 they summit the top of the finger and found a
nice place to set 1/2 of the tent comfortable. Then they descended
to help the rest part of the group to climb up.
The approach appeared not simple. The first
attempt to rise under the basis of a route was unsuccessful -
climbing up about fifty meters on the needle like "the mutton
foreheads ", Alexander went on sloping plates covered by
rubbles. To ascend on them without the belay seemed doubtful.
Second time we went more to the right, to the
south. Climbing on a talus, we reached step rocks and fixed 20
meters of rope. Further we went on foot directly under the wall.
There we said goodbye to the girls who filled with water all capacities,
including the boiler, promised them "to be more accurate"
and "to not be late".
Dobrinsky-Rylsky roped up should drag up
our gear under the route while the first two climbers roped would
fix the rope. We with surprise found out, that all groups had
8 luggage places, including the boiler. Somewhere in a head the
idea arose: "Have we taken something superfluous? Someone
took a lot of any rubbish". And it took us a lot of time
to drag up a heap of trunks and backpacks.
Ilya Rylsky dragged up the gear to the station on the beginning
of the route.
Under the wall we traverse on a ledge to the left and upwards.
Here a ledge rather abruptly arose, we started climbing: everyone
climbed as he could: somebody on all fours, somebody frankly.
As it was planned those who climbed first without any luggage
should fix the rope, but they didn't. However, they left the rope,
but we didn't have any fixed pro. We were shaken by rough emotions
climbing on free style with a 30-kilogram shapeless trunk on a
back especially on 3m-site on friction. But the descent appeared
even more adventurous.
Novikov on fixed rope - summit the "Cucumber".
Having promised to tear to piece the climbers
who climbed first and hadn't fixed the rope for us we finally
climbed the ledge of 10-15 centimeters of width and traversed
it on fixed rope using old bolts and cracks. Then we finally found
the rope fixed our partners and ascended on it.
After having fell into the
memoirs about how their station on Free Spain had collapsed, Pavel
came on evening vorch, made some photographs, took two backpacks,
and informing, that " … I do not have any confidence of reliability
of this station … ", climbed upward. Petrovich remained with
our things in private, digesting this phrase.
The weather, however, didn't gain our optimism.
As it was usual, in the afternoon all the sky was clouded, above
the top something already began to curl, a few drops fell down.
The wind freshened up and sounded a radio noise in roughness
of a helmet. The abundance of air around in combination with
a steepness of the wall made itself felt - it would be desirable
to seize a rope, to depart far away from the edge of the ledge,
etc. But meanwhile there was absolutely nothing to do for me
- Pavel was climbing very slowly. Evil thoughts came again tî
an empty head of Petrovich since that morning.
It seemed the whole eternity had passed before
I could hear: " The rope is free! "
We fixed a trunk, a boiler and all other odds
and ends and lifted them with small jerks upward.
The turn of Petrovich to climb on the fixed
Generally he couldn't climb on a vertical fixed rope. He had
even climbed some times somewhere. But - it was a little. And
without a backpack. And the fixed rope touched the wall. And
he knew how to do it theoretically but he had no any experience.
And now we didn't have any fixed pro with a modest inscription
Having connected something unimaginable
on complexity from the jumar, Tbloc, cords, clipping all and
all, our supply manager came off the ground.
Peak Asan, Pogorelov's route, 6À
Somewhere in the middle of a chimney
the trunk with attached under it on 5-meter rope the boiler tightly
got stuck under a small cornice. Unhooking a cargo, Petrovich
could hard pulled out the gear over the overhanging chimney and
Time went. The first station we dismantled already in the darkness,
at 21.00, using lanterns. Somebody could not put it on a helmet,
and they should hold it in teeth. By the end of the second rope
our business seemed to be adjusted - the backpacks one by one
left upward, a trunk was regularly unhooked by accompanying. On
the third rope the moon left, illuminating this night show. After
some hard working accompanying with "Pull, your mother!"
we finally reached the place where we decided to spend that night.
And all the night the expert with a diploma in
the field of automation, the geographer - cartographer with his
diploma, the expert on databases with a proper certificate and
the engineer - designer in area of gyroscope construction were
arguing about that ascent: how we couldn't cope with such simple
task - to climb with the trunk and the boiler.
The Top of "Cucumber" represented a
ridge with 15meters of length: somewhere wider, somewhere narrower.
The place for spending the night was super. It would be possible
to settle two tents and organize an invisible the place for a
latrine. All seemed so beautiful: the moon, the clouds creeping
from below and the mountains around.
We lay "jack" and farting we fell
asleep. At breakfast we exchanged the complaints about the socks
of neighbors reeking all night even through sleeping bags.
07.08 in the morning Pavel and Petrovich
climbed to fix the rope and were doing it till the evening managed
to fix incomplete four ropes. The weather was cold since the morning.
The sun appeared only at 13.00 (on Kyrgyz time). The fingers in
the rocky shoes dressed barefoot, grew dumb in some minutes; after
removal shoes it was necessary to massage them. Yesterday's efforts,
today's not having our sleep out, a cold, and our slovenry - all
prevented us to climb quickly. The last rope this day we did not
climb till the end and descended in darkness and dampness.
In the morning on 8-th of August we decided
to take off the ledge and to climb up to the balcony, located
in 8 pitches upper according to the description of the pioneers.
However, Vladimir smote his breast, speaking, that today was necessary
to reach the ridge that located in 3 pitches upper, than the balcony.
Pavel Dobrinsky is coming off from "Cucumber"
The bottom part of the wall to the right
of our route
The next day was our one. The
weather was excellent and warm. We wake up at 6.00, gathered,
and at 7.30 began climbing on fixed rope. The station based on
a bolt and two chocks appeared normal. But I hate aid climbing.
Further our movement began to remind
a usual caterpillar' one. The first two climbers roped fixed the
rope. The second roped ones climbed it on, collecting the station
gear and bringing it upper. On each step of movement the 1st belayer
met with 2nd leader passed the gear and it went on and on...and
as a rule, something was given short, and then the leader had
to make a station using laces from rocky shoes.
The second pitch after "Cucumber"
This day was completely unfair
things with Novikov. First he aid climbed the rope. We exchanged
our places. Fortunately to me the I did the following pitch entirely
free climbing. Having passed it, I made a station and with half
an eye noticed, that the following pitch he had to do aid climbing
too. And it went on and on - up to the balcony.
In result I spent the most
part of that day at the station observing how Alexander put, checked,
loaded, thought a lot, knocked, checked, etc. Strongly regretted,
that there was no with itself a chamber. There was one more entertainment:
each three hours we should communicate with the camp. And to this,
appeared, there was no end All in the same breath we reached the
balcony. Stop! It was all for today. Alexander would make one
more pitch till the darkness. This cool guy would never refuse
the similar thing.
Ilya Rylsky in a society of trunks
Pavel Dobrinsky on a fixed rope
At last station we made yesterday,
we spent a few hours. Vladimir obviously did not hurry up to make
a station. We became sad. "Well, if they and further all
the day long climb in the such tempo- we will spend the night
Vladimir and Alexander exchanged places. All went
more cheerfully especially a traverse over a small cornice in
which all odds and ends got stuck. Joking apart we had to unhook
it. Here we frankly tangled one and a half hundreds meters of
ropes - in general there was real thing to engage.
Since the morning Petrovich' brain
feverishly worked above a question: "Where to take water?
". There wasn't snow on ledges. And, thank God, the accumulated
ice is not present too. It is not planned any rain. In this case
we decided to reach the ridge till the evening. And everybody
thought: "We have got heated!" but the guys said: "It
will be Kremnezhka!"
The platform on the balcony in the sizes hardly
exceeded that was on "Cucumber", but convenience was
not added, because sticking out stones occupied all the added
space under the tent. But on war is as on war. It was necessary
to be reconciled with that. Everybody dreamed about his own.
-Well, tomorrow we can be at the top. - Alexander made conservative
forecast, falling asleep in tinned languages the Chinese soluble
At night the water was almost dreamed to all.
Ilya Rylsky at the station (2-n a pitch after "Cucumber")
To our surprise, also on 9-th of
August the weather still remained remarkable. It was surprisingly
warm, but, nevertheless, we had to to put on all we had, because
even in such weather, having stayed one hour at station, it would
be possible to die.
Next day Pavel and Ilya
were ahead. And the summit was already felt. It was a special
sensation: Confidence and calmness was in that we would have time
and excitation and passion was in that there was something unknown
above, behind the nearest ridge.
After an output on the
ridge the rocks became much easier, than on the wall and our advanced
two climbers began to work so quickly, that we had hardly time
to drag behind them the ropes and the gear...
Under the top little
snow caps and accumulated ice began to come across. We with pleasure
split everything with bolts and axes, breaking away limpid slices.
The granite crumb crackled on teeth…
Having worked hard like a navvy for a day,
at 21.00 in the evening Ilya first summit the top. To 22.00 this
evening we all gathered at the top were sitting and having tea.
We decided not to settle the tent. The weather was well disposed
Âîâêà íà ñïóñêå ñ Àñàíà
We were sleeping like a log. The sun at
the top arose at 6.00 in the morning. And at once it became warm.
We began descending at 11.30, aside
the ridge with Usen. We rappeled two pitches and went on a wide
scree ridge. Having gone down to dumps aside a cirque of 4810,
we found trigger runners, and rappeled 12 pitches to reach the
ground instead of 5-7 we had planned.
The distributed howl sounded from the ridge -
stones started falling. Having seized the ropes and shaking the
wet backs, the climbers hastened to hide under the walls. On the
road to the camp their dreams were going like an arrow through
- Imagine, if you descend, and there will be a
And the honest truth, there really was a
borshch in the Camp…