Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Piolet d'Or 2004 goes to Jannu North Face!
Team Russian Way - World Walls
On February, 25 Piolet d'Or the 14-th victory ceremony took place in Grenoble. "Groupe de Haute Montagne" (GHM) and “Montagnes Magazine” edition presented a wide audience six the most outstanding ascents of all modern mountaineering styles accomplished in the most different latitudes, from Alaska up to Patagonia in 2004.
Jean Christophe Lafaille, France
Solo ascent of Shisha Pangma's South Face, 8046m, Tibet, Himalaya
Jean Christophe Lafaille- the first climber in the Himalaya history, soloed face to face "8-thousand" mountain without use of supplementary oxygen, in Alpine style via the technically complex route (Scott/Maclntyre-Baxter-Jones + a variant (new site) at altitudes from 5800 up to 7000m) in winter conditions.
Date: November, 11 - December, 15, 2004.
Summit - December, 11.
Thomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj, Slovenia. Aconcagua, South Face, 6960m, Argentina, Johan's Route First ascent
Moral courage demonstration: after the hardest traumas received at unsuccessful falling at repair his own house and numerous operations Thomas managed to return to “the big mountaineering” again. He and his friend Ales Kozelj together spent five days and finally summited the challenging Aconcagua, Southern face.
The route is named in memory of Thomaz's climbing teammate on Nuptse-97, Janez Jeglic, swept away by the gale-force wind from the summit ridge.
Date: December, 2003, the two last weeks
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj to Aconcagua's peak along a new route
Alexander Odintsov, Alexander Ruchkin, Sergey Borisov, Michael Mikhailov, Gennady Kirievsky, Michael Pershin, Nikolay Totmyanin, Alexey Bolotov, Eugeny Prilepa, Dmitry Pavlenko, Russia. First ascent Jannu North Face, Direct line, 7710m, Nepal.
The strongest world climbers have championed the first ascent on Jannu North Face since the beginning of 80-s'. Russian tactics (capsule style, fixing the rope), probably, seems not the most elegant, however, the majority of the climbers who have tried this wall consider that it's the only way to climb it.
Date: April, 5 - May, 28, 2004
Check out on the Mountain.RU: About Panasonic-Jannu North Face expedition
Kevin Mahoney and Ben Gilmore (USA), first ascent of "Artic Rage" route, Moose's Tooth, 3150m, East Face, Alaska
This ice and mixed line led on grandiose cascades is a dream of lots of climbing fans. The two-man team sent the chain of tremendous technically complex gullies in very bad weather conditions. Originating on the wall on one of Bridwell's routes Artic Rage line strongly straightens to the summit of the Mountain - the symbol of Alaska.
Date: March, 20 - April, 3, 2004
Note: exactly this ascent side by side with Jannu climb was the real winning pretender in the judges' opinion.
Elio Orlandi, Luca Fava (Italy) and Horacio Codo (Argentina). First ascent Linea di Eleganza, North-East Face, Fitz Roy, 3440 m, Patagonia, Argentina.
It's the most "direct" line leading onto on NE Face up to the Fitz Roy's summit.
One of the challenge, rare, successful ascents in Patagonia in 2004 took 8 days on the mountain during the rare but happy period of steady weather, in the magic mountain massif where the sun and snow flurry charges promptly alternate with each other the same day.
Date: from the middle of December 2003 -
February, 10, 2004
Steve House, USA. Solo First ascent K7, Southwest Face, 6942m, Pakistan.
Steve discovered this line in 2003 and right then made four attempts to climb it.
Only in his third try he managed to solve the crux - a rocky site in the bottom part of the wall. But Steve had to bail at 6200m due to a storm. On July, 17 he reached the main difficulties Ì6 + and À2 at 6800m too late.
On July, 24 he got there much earlier, at 11 am and successfully summited.
Date: July, 2004. 29 days on the mountain,
THE JURY PIOLET D'OR
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