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The Name: Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord.

Object: Nalumasortoq West Face

Expedition Leader: Valery Rozov

Sponsors:

Expedition members:

Valery Rozov
Arkady Seregin
Timur Ahmedkhanov
Alexander Lastochkin
Lev Dorfman- - video
Dmitry Lifanov photo

Brief outline of the project:
In July 2003 our team is planning an expedition to Greenland. In the southern part of the island near Tasermiut fjord there is a number of peaks with vertical granite faces ranging from 850m to 1400m!

Mountaineers have recently started exploring this region, but it has already become popular. It is compared to Yosemites with its long routes, steep granite walls, and with Patagonia with its treacherous climate.

The weather here is influenced by the ocean and Greenland ice cap its ice is literary flowing into the waters of Tasermiut fjord. The wind known as Fohn blows often along 100-km long fjord and it brings a long spell of bad weather. It can reach the speed of 170 km/ph.

The objective of our expedition is the least explored peak of the region called Nalumasortoq (2054m). It has the vertical gain of 850 1000m. The face is absolutely vertical and sometimes overhanging. The first ascent of this face was done in 2000 by a French-Italian team. It was given the grade of (850 ,6+,3+). Our team plans to put a new line in the western (more extend) part of the face of Nalumasortoq. And from the upper part of the face Valery Rozov will do a BASE jump in wing-suit .

We continue the new trend we started during our Great Sail Peak expedition to Arctic Canada. We call it "BASE climbing"!

No Russian climbers have ever made ascents in this region (and in Greenland as well). And no one has ever done a BASE jump in this region!

Valery Rozov . B.A.S.E. Interview for Mountain.RU



Russian

"Russian Extreme Project"
Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord, Nalumasortoq West Face

Expedition News:

Photo from Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord, Nalumasortoq West Face, "Russian Extreme Project"
(10.12.2003) new!

Photo REP

Timur Ahmedhanov and "the Russian Extreme project " in Greenland
(13.11.2003)
"...When we were swimming through to area, it became visible these walls, and the first we could see was Ulumasortoq Wall. This wall is much more assimilated then others. It is also located closer to a fjord. And it makes a very strong impression..."

Interviewed by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

(10.07.2003)
"Russian Extreme Project" Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord, Nalumasortoq West Face

"Hello everyone, Seregin, Lastochkin and Ahmedhanov started working on the wall. They passed the lower band of rocks and climbed half a pitch. The difficulty is higher then average, approximately A3+, lots of flakes and loose rock, overhangs. Rozov, Dorfman, Lifanov went around the wall in search of easy decent route. But failed to find it. From behind it looks almost the same. The only variant of descent is the ascent route. It's not yet clear what to do with Dima and Leva. The weather is getting worse and colder, misty. Everyone is in good health. "

Sponsors:
"Salomon"
"Bask" - mountain wear and information support
"Canon" - photo and video equipment
"Paraavis" - parachute equipment
Oakley - top glasses

(8.07.2003)
"Russian Extreme Project" Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord, Nalumasortoq West Face
"Hello everyone, We are still carrying equipment to ABC. We had a funny accident. One of us - we won't mention his name - fell into the bog and got stuck there up to his waist, we got him out, the equipment was not damaged, the sinking guy is also ok, just soaked. In the photo you can see our wall. We are planning to climb the central part of the wall to the right tower. The wall looks like an open book. Our route lies on the right side. Tomorrow we are finally moving to the base of the wall. By the evening we are planning to start working on the route. We chose to leave our generator, so we won't send messages every day.
We've just came after fishing. For dinner we have a 2-kilo fish and 2 kg of sea-food. The weather is good. You know about mosquitoes already. Bye, Till then. "

Sponsors:
"Salomon"
"Bask" - mountain wear and information support
"Canon" - photo and video equipment
"Paraavis" - parachute equipment
Oakley - top glasses

(7.07.2003)
Hello, We brought the equipment to the wall. The approach to the wall took us about 6 hours. The lane was mushy and overgrown with plants. From the distance the wall looked differently. It is dominating at the end of the valley as a giant fence. We looked through the variant of our ascent and chose the left side of the second tower. It hasn't been climbed before. With binoculars we could see a logic system of cracks, two big overhangs, the wall is at least vertical. We decided to move our BC 3-4 hours up the valley. Tomorrow the first party of two will spend a night at the wall, and the day after tomorrow they will start working on the route. It got a bit colder today, but in general the weather is favorable. The mosquitoes are terrible. Up the valley there are many other nice objects for climbing. The region resembles both Patagonia and Karavshin. Arkady went fishing, Lastochkin is tormenting the guitar, the others are tormenting the phone and computer trying to send this message. We celebrated Lev's son's birthday. There is another wall nearby, in the background of the picture, called ULUMOSORTOG. Everything is OK, bye!

Sponsors:
"Salomon"
"Bask" - mountain wear and information support
"Canon" - photo and video equipment
"Paraavis" - parachute equipment
Oakley - top glasses

 

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