Shisha Pangma, 8027
Simone Moro ITA
Piotr Morawski POL
Jacek Jawien POL
Darek Zaluski POL
Jan Szulc POL
Pangma Winter. First attempt. 2003-2004ã.
Check out the previous story
on the Mountain.RU:
Interview for Mountain.RU
Shisha Pangma Winter Ascent
Till the end this expedition was very hard…
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they
braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than -
40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue.
We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where
we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the
jeeps to Kathmandu.
The day before we start our descent adventure
we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down
the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC
and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness
and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst,
because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot.
Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far
from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation.
But we pasted a very bad night….
they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy
to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting.
At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750
and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some
ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes
till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting
with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with
totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the
other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others
are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite
in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished
in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by
thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other
times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible
to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place
where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little
later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were
not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu,
the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for
3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more
shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and
I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated
our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit”
as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone
Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously
the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to
take all our equipment and transport to the village that is
25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success
play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring
for the sun....
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15.
We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up
the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind
was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma
in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and
we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong
wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks
are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr reached the col and put
up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to
be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast
because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also
to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not
difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock).
When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was
extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that
a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible,
strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course
not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow!
Simone and Piotr
All the night the wind shook the tents and
it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud,
showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait
for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold
wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are
sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very
important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let
us through the col...
Simone and Piotr
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has
just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC
(5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going
The wind is still blowing with terrible force.
But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set
up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC
we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we
didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed
character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we
could see big fields of pure ice!
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast
said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!.
The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl
Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also
to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult
to be... We are in a good physical condition and motivation
is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr
and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all
the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will
be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his
Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely
high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the
kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning
for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also
in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages
to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek
that still were in C1. Yesterday they get a really hard job
and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to
take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the
descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from
ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at
5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and
strategies for the next important week....
Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and
Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till
7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach
the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek
"sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC
or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and
get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe
make already a first summit attempt.... Yesterday we finished
to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously
broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for
food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left
especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at
the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up
of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude
to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would
like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between
the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to
fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise
well and also using that point as the starting point for the
summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will
remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40° degree
and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies
to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope
till C1. Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross
the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely
important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend
The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature
was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds
meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent
for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we
already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But
we will do our best.
The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold,
today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the
morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on
the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the
strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed
will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went
to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600
m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb
higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the
week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the
tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind...
but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get
the first technical problem. Our generator stopped to work
and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation
and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my
solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our
Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody
was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and
was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags
and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind
and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said
to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will
have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha
Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged
us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today
we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible.
So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base
camp (log way....) Last night the wind and the cold had been
a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist
for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge
our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate
the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and
without any polemic... Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will
continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks
we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food
and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came
and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached
the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also
those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac,
below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp
I. The altitude is about 6550.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the
weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and
the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha
pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32
yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix
them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them
during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas
and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend.
Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some
equipment. We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly
discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the
weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak
we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry
40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed
since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for
some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and
pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA.
Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport
our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary
to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather
is still good even the temperature went down in compare of
one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team
I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead,
I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof
of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages.
We're sentries up here…
We arrived in Nyalam today. We left
yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike
with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the
border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still
had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of
Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed
wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until
the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small
private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours
prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning
we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into
Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was
the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French
alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal,
he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to
the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER
EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it
because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says
that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons
and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA
as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can
contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended
because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered
Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted
with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and
clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season
calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December,
we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered
in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible…
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are
in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go
to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going
down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche
as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.
we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news
about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise
we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered
that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green
line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last
December and January (till the point where the route cross
the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new
because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow
the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and
our line had been only the physiological variant in order
to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many
photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important
world web site and our line and story should be well known.
In any case we would like to congratulate
JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really!
We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics.
The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe
that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra
Simone, Darek, Piotr
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition.
Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and
food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends
planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base
camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.
that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and
from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south
face base camp.
Only at base camp we will decide the route
we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition
of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck
from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared
for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I
took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training
with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
PANGMA WINTER 2004-2005
"Winter is back and I am off once
again to face the ascent this season of an 8000 metre peak.
Last January, at the beginning of 2004, only 300 vertical
metres stopped us from achieving the first historical winter
ascent of Shisha Pangma’s 8027 metres in the Himalayas..."
Author: Simone Moro