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Peak of Voennykh Topographers

In the summer, 2004 a team led by Anatoliy Juliy plans the second expedition to Central Tien Shan mountains (the area of peak Tomur - peak Pobeda) from the China part. The purpose of the second expedition is passage several new still unclimbed passes, first ascents on one or two "6-thousand" mountains and an ascent via a new route from the south on one of known summits of Kokshaaltau ridge - peak of Voennykh (Army) Topographers(6873 m, 22,550 ft). Peak Voennyh (Army) Topographers was named after the cartography expedition held in the region by USSR army topo service in 1943. This expedition has contributed a lot into cartography of the region, it also has discoveredc Pobeda Peak (7349 m, 24,111 ft) - the highest mountain of Tien-Shan.

Terms of the expedition - July - August 2004.

The head of the expedition-
Juliy Anatoliy Vladimirovich

The team's members:

Juliy Anatoliy Vladimirovich, the head of the expedition


David Lehtman - the participant and the head of more than 30 campaigns of 5-6 category graded in Pamir, Tien-Shan and other areas.

Vladimir Leonenko All three of them participated in the first expedition in Chinese Tien Shan in 2002.

Jury Strubtsov - a campaign 6-th category graded in Tien Shan, 2001


Alexey Kirienko - climb of Barrier pass, ascents on Khan Tengri, Pobeda peaks, a campaign 6-th category graded in Tien Shan, 2001.

Ilya Mikhalev - several campaigns in Pamir, Tien-Shan, a campaign 6-th category graded in Tien Shan, 2001, ascents on peak Pobeda, Khan Tengri, peak Communisma, Korzhenevskoy, Mac Kinley etc.


  • "Alpine -Trade": Tel: +7 (095) 788-1248, Fax: 786-4106. Address: Russia, 105037, Moscow, Pervomaiskaya street, 18, str. 1 - Technical sponsor of the expedition. Equipment Petzl, MSR.
  • Travel agency "Tien-Shan Travel" tel. +996 (312) 270576,
  • Travel agency "Association of travellers" ("AsTravel") - visa support.

    Photos of Pobeda Peak and peak of Army Topographers from the China area
    A journey to a lost world or out-of-the-way of Chinese Empire. The Expedition Unknown Tien Shan


    EXPEDITION to "the wild world"



    (27.07.2004) new!
    25.07 19-30
    Anatoly Dzhuly reports:
    11.07.04 - we left on the ridge that we had to traverse in the first part of the expedition. The altitude was 5200m. The ridge with the top 6435m actually lasts from Pobeda Peak.
    12.07.04 - we made traverse of the first top (5550 m), made 5 pitches and spent 7 hours. Weather was rather good.
    13.07.04 - we made traverse of the second top (5620 m), 6,5 pitches, four of them appeared very difficult. Weather became to worsen. From time to time it was snowing.
    14.07.04 - we made traverse of the third top (5650 m) and climbed some cornices. Weather was bad, visibility was close to zero.
    15.07.04 - we had a forced rest because of very bad weather.
    16.07.04 - weather was still bad, but we were able to climb under the peak 6050, that took 5 hours.
    17.07.04 - a rest day again, it was heavy snowing. At spending the night place snow cover reached up to 1.5 m. Avalanches collapsed everywhere around. And one of them was on the brink of our camp. Fortunately, everything practically turned out all right (we lost only one ski pole).
    18.07.04 - bad weather and strong snowfall lasted. We decided to have one meal and only 200 g gasoline a day.
    19.07.04 - the situation was the same. A rest day again. But that must come to end some day!!!
    20.07.04 - rare gleams of light appeared in the sky. We went the ridge heading the 6435 peak. Having made 6 pitches we set the camp to spend the night at 6200 m.
    21.07.04 - it was the first day of good weather! We went on the route at 12.00 and already at 14.00 we reached the summit of 6435 peak! Then we descended to the Plato (Plateau) pass, that we already climbed in 2002.
    22.07.04 - we began to descend from the ridge. Weather was good, but a strong gusty wind blew. It was high avalanche danger (for all these days of bad weather snow had piled up to 3m), therefore we had to choose the way very carefully, leaving on more difficult, but more safe relief. We descended to the saddle of the Bozhya Korovka (Ladybird) pass, also gone in 2002. But having rappelled 7 difficult pitches we had to make the other way now. For a day we reduced 1600m of altitude. In total while traversing the ridge we made more than 40 pitches.
    23.07.04 - in the rain with snow we returned to the base camp. Having given us incomplete two days to finish traverse of 6435 peak and to descend, the good weather disappeared again.
    24.07.04 - a rest day in the base camp and discussion of the further plans.
    25.07.04 (today) - in view of two participants feel unhealthy after such complex and long traverse, where we had more to sit out and dig out, than actually to go further, and in view of the developing weather conditions, lost days and etc. we had to make the hard decision to postpone traverse of Voennykh Topografov (Military Topographers) peak and to finish our expedition...
    Tomorrow we will leave the base camp and at good transport joinings on July 28 - 30 we will be able already to be in Moscow.
    Actually - no one of the participants does not regret about the gone route and about the accepted decision - we have done a very beautiful and difficult traverse, first ascent the 6435 peak. In general, we will arrive soon and tell and show you everything.
    All of successes and good weather to you!

    21.07 21-30
    Anatoly Dzhuly reports:
    We were late making traverse when climbed Kashkar peak (6435m). It appeared more difficult, than we thought. Having made 40 pitches we finally summited Kashkar today and descended to 5600m. We trained to use only 200g gasoline a day. In 2 days we will descend to the base camp and we inform you details from there.

    Anatoly Dzhuliy reports:
    We are on a saddle at 4460 m (14,630 ft) right now. We've named this pass Kichik-Teren (Kichik means Small in Kyrgyz language), following the name of the glacier which we will follow on our descend. The pass is very easy, 1B grade (climable almost only on foot, minor belay). Everyone feels bad because we've just started acclimatization.
    From the pass we have looked at South pillar of the peak of Army Topographers (6873 m) - our future route. There is a few snow this year (most of our way to pass 4460 m was by talus), so the pillar looks now primarily rocky. So will see what's there as soon as we will start to climb the pillar.

    Anatoly Dzhuliy reports:
    Today in the afternoon our caravan reached the place where the base camp will be settle. This year the caravan drivers (local Chinese Kirghiz) appeared especially smart lads - the group had to hardly run after them. But we got the final place very fast. We were going to set the base camp at that camp site where the base camp of our previous expedition in 2002 was, but now we could not find any water there. Apparently, we have to set it hardly above. And already tomorrow we plan to leave to the glacier.
    Weather is not good yet (it is not necessary the weather to be good for a while), but there are some shaft of sun light in the clouded sky.
    We were very lucky to find unexpectedly our last year full carry, practically untouched (in 2002 they finished the campaign hardly before the planned time and left through other valley). Such our greetings to ourselves.

    Anatoly Dzhuliy reports:
    Everything is all right - yesterday early we arrived in Aksu (through Urumchi), today already have reached practically merge of Chon and Kichi Terensu rivers, altitude 2400 m. Further we will go with a caravan and if everything is in the order, the day after tomorrow we will reach the Base camp.

    So, the route is finally determined and we will depart at the end of June. Then we will get to the mountains first by vehicle, then by a caravan of horses. And at last we will be able to accomplish the first stage of acclimatization that will solve two problems: to make first ascent of a new not high (about 4700m) and not complex (2-2B) pass leading to the next glacier to the east, and to do the first full carry on the final part of the route. This first stage, from the beginning of a foot part with horses, will take 8 days.

    Koshkar, 6435m The snow ridge - one of the variants of ascent

    The second stage of acclimatization is planned to take approximately 10 days and consists of first ascent on Koshkar peak (in my opinion the Chinese call it like so). Koshkar (6435m) towers separately in plexus of mountains in a southern spur of Pobeda peak - it is a good altitude to prepare the next ascent on Voennykh (Army) Topographers peak. If weather does not disturb our plans, we also will scout route variants to get to Temirsu glacier for the future expeditions to the area.

    And after having a rest in our base camp we will start the basic part of our route - to climb a southern ridge of Voennykh Topographers peak, which should lead us in upper Southern Inylchek glacier. Then our plans become rather uncertain and depend on losses of time and forces. 6-10 days are planned to ascend the basic part of the ridge. Further two variants are possible: to climb a new pass to the north of Rapasova peak leading in upper Tugbelchi glacier and to climb Tugbelchi pass already familiar to us and finally to get to our food and gear on Kichikteren glacier carried earlier or to make a "big ring" through Inylcheksky pass, one new pass from Tugbelchi glacier to carried food and gear on Kichikteren glacier.

    Voennykh (Army) Topographers peak en face and in profile. In profile you can see our ridge - the second one. The crux of the route is a rocky belt at 6000-6300m. There is one more a bit easier crux a little higher, somewhere at 6500-6700m. Our further route depends very strongly on amount of the days we need to climb this top part of the ridge

    And the final part of the route assumes route's reco to the east from Kichikteren glacier. We plan even a week on trekking over inflows of the glacier. After one and a half of month in the mountains our expedition will get to the end by this moment. Then we will make a planned trip to the coal-mining combine.

    It is difficult to assume what will we really be able to realise. Tien Shan is a very whimsical area

    In the summer, 2004 a team led by Anatoliy Juliy plans the second expedition to Central Tien Shan mountains (the area of peak Tomur - peak Pobeda) from the China part.
    For today, in our opinion, it is one of the most remote and scantily researched mountain areas, which have stayed on our planet. Our first expedition in 2002 allowed to make researches with the object of sports opportunities of several glaciers, opportunities for passage of new passes and making new ascents.
    The purpose of the second expedition is passage several new still unclimbed passes, first ascents on one or two "6-thousand" mountains and an ascent via a new route from the south on one of known summits of Kokshaaltau ridge - peak of Voennykh (Army) Topographers.
    Terms of the expedition - July - August 2004.
    Structure of the team: 6-10 person. Juliy Anatoliy Vladimirovich - the head of the expedition. All participants have an experience of high-altitude ascents and an experience of sports joint campaigns and expeditions under my leadership.
    We are going to make video and photo shooting about the expedition's work.
    The cost of the expedition on 8 person is approximately 16000 dollars. Taking into account the certain financial difficulties at the majority of the participants, we ask to consider the problem of sponsor's support. We are ready to accept any help - financial, maintenance with equipment, products, including an opportunity of purchase of necessary gear with the greatest possible discount .

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