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Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek

From the shine of gold up to the spiritual poverty

Golden thing Gladiators and Clowns d`or.
- Part 1

- Part 2
Piolet d'Or -2006
16 Piolet d’Or-2007
Whether Miss Fame is so bad?
What a good start of all this story was: "We want you in Grenoble".
And but instead of expected international climbing competition just a circus took place there. But International Circus Festival runs in Monte Carlo. What's the row?
The fact is that the mountaineering shifted from the sports of a generous romantic to the battle-field of pinched ambitions.
That's about it.
A fine idea of good peaceful rivalry develops into an ordinary buffoonery only because the Celestial Fathers of alpinism cannot, first, agree closely with each other and, second, direct their efforts not on the discredit, but on support and development this useful undertaking.

Competitions separate climbers not because of bias of refereeing and other nonsense that are made the corner-stone but because of elementary bankruptcy of possibility to make the self-acceptance and acceptance of another's achievements.

Having felt the baddest once, you find really difficult not to run into pernicious race for the momentary glory with daily trying to prove to everybody that you are the best. Willy-nilly all of this grows into the big soap bubble, where emptiness is behind the rainbow sheen.
And when we thunder against the "Piolet D"Or", first of all, we convict our own inability to reach a consensus in this rather narrow inner circle of people knowing the true of sports mountaineering. In fact the main problem for the such-like competitions is to engage authoritative jurymen which weighty opinion in the estimation of the public can tip the scale of any clacking tongues on the terrace. But that demands the strong will of organizers and authoritative climbers and their ability to put up with the pruritus of heart burs for the benefit of the Caurse.

We have not seen such enthusiasts yet, and, accordingly all of us seem to be the Gods now that keep darting flashes into each other and put out wool over profanes' eyes, glorying own "greatness" and "inaccessibility".

Denis Urubko: "In my opinion Prezelj plays cunning. Wagging your tongue is not the same that to turn sacks. I understand, the Italians did not visit the ceremony last year and thus took a stand against the competitions. That inspires respect though they lost an opportunity to earn "the fame".
But Marko has come and now is going to tell all of us about what a clever, acquainted, and advanced guy he is and how he can talk just like a book :) Well, you should react to his words with some skepticism.
He seems to build his image again"
.


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