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Автор: Alexandr Gukov, St. Petersburg

Thulagi Chuli, 7059m, Mansari Himal, Gandaki zone, Nepal

25th of September four of us Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dojdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko were staying on the unclimbed summit of Mt. Thulagi Chuli. At least six expeditions have attempted to climb it. But every time the mountain discourages from endeavor to ascent it. This time it took pity on us.

We arrived in Katmandu 6th of September. Next day we were given a permission and 8th of September we were in Dharapany village from where it took us two days to get Dharmasa at height 3665m. There we established our BC.

From 11th September till 20th September we were looking for the passway to the mountain, choosing the way up and acclimating at the same time.

If one looked at Thulagi Chuli it would be visible a huge long belt of seracs stretching through the western slop up to the northwest crest. Having approached to the glacier at 5000m we found a possible way to the summit on it west face.

September 18 we established our ABC at height 5750m and got down for two days recovering. The weather left much to be desired. Every day there was a rain or fog. But we hoped it would get better by the day of ascent.

After the rest at Dharmasala September 21 we left our BC with big hope to ascend. On the second day having come up to ABC on the glacier we were quiet surprised finding our camp destroyed by the avalanche. It was big luck that we weren’t inside during the accident. Our entirely torn tent was found 25m away (lower to the slope) together with almost all equipment. But our Grivel ice axes were buried under a thick snow layer.

All next day we were trying to find them. Finally we found two axes from six plus having one more on our hands. Well, three axes for four men were not so bad. It was also good that we took with us additional small 2-persons tent which we had used on Mt. Thamserku last year.

The weather was getting better and better. Looking at our way to the summit which we chose last days we found it too dangerous due to of ice seracs on both sides traces of which were seen along our rout. So we decided to climb a bit more to the left. It was ice wall leading on the northwest crest.

Having started at 6am September 24 at height 5850m we reached the crest at 7pm finding there a good place for the bivy. Ice wall with average bias 55 degrees gradually increasing on the top up to 70 degrees and three pitches of rocks this day. We made a snow cave and spent night as kings.

Next morning at 8am we resumed our way up. Crest was not so difficult but for the serac with one vertical ice pitch. There was too much snow on the top even when slop was 50-60 degree.

25 of September Ivan Dozhdev had his 29th birthday. So we presented him fist steps to the summit. At 3:50pm we were dancing on the top. The weather was perfect and the view as well.

After two hours of descent we were in our cave.

Next morning September 26 at 04 pm we got down to ABC by the same way. We were sleeping on the lower part of the glacier at height 5100m.

September 27 we were at the BC.


Thulagi Chuli, 7059m, FA

Two days from BC 3665m to ABC 5750m

24/09/2015 06 am, 5850m - start of the rout.

24/09/2015 07 pm, 6700m - break off for the bivy in the snow cave on the NW crest.

25/09/2015 08 am – resumed the way up

25/09/2015 03:50 pm, 7059m – summit

25/09/2015 06:30 pm, 6700m – next bivy in the same cave

26/09/2015 04 pm, 5750m – back to ABC

27/09/2015 02pm – back the BC

Total 21 hours to the summit having one bivy in the snow cave.

10 hours way back to ABC having bivy in the same cave.

Russian grade 6a

Total height difference 1200m

Total length of the rout …..m

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