In June - July, 2004 "Russian Extreme
Project" team consisting of 4 climbers, a camera-man, a photographer and a doctor,
sets to climb a new "Russian" route on legendary Mt. Amin Brakk (5850m), West
face, and make B.A.S.E. jump, executed by Valery Rozov, from the summit.
The Mountain is situated in inaccessible Pakistan Mountains
that present real climbing Mecca. It is one of the most complex and extended
walls of our planet. It is harder then Trango Tower. Amin Brakk was first attempted
in May 1996 by the Basque climbers and got attraction of rock climber back in
1997. The very experienced Spanish big wall climber, Jon Lazkano, together with
Adolfo Madinabeitia and Jose Carlos Tamayo made a capsule style attempt on the
1,200m granite face of unclimbed Amin Brakk. After 15 days on the wall the trio
were forced to give up around 300m below the top, worn down by bad weather,
cold temperatures that caused minor frosting, and lack of food. They estimated
another three to four days of good climbable weather would be needed in order
to reach the summit.
Spanish made several attempts until 1999 Pep Masip, Miguel
Puigdomenech and Silvia Vidal climbed this virgin Tower and named their route
as Sol Solet (VII 6C+, A5). The ascent took 34 days. The route has a technically
complex part of 1650m in length and 22 pitch A5 and 6c+ (vertical!) and is considered
as the most technically complex wall in the world for the present moment. Extent
of sites À5-graded (the greatest possible category of complexity) makes 150
meters (!) at the altitude about 6000 m. Lack of snow on this very abrupt wall
causes additional complexities, and the climbers have to haul up water.
The Russians have never tried to climb this formidable
mountain. Moreover nobody has jumped from its top and realised similar projects!
The team is going to lead and develop the new extreme sports of "B.A.S.E.-climbing".
You will be able to follow the expedition reading on-line reportings (news,
photos).
graduated MIET (Moscow Institute of Electronic
Technics) in 1988, speciality - engineer - programmer.
became to be engaged in mountaineering
and rock-climbing in 1982.
a member of a command of Moscow military
district since 1986 to 1991. He did more than 40 successful ascents,
5-th and 6-th category of difficulty. He became numerous prize-winner
and the Champion of the country on mountaineering.
started to be engaged in parachute jumping
in 1993. The World champion, the Champion of Europe, the Champion
of Russia on parachute jumping.
The author and the leader of “Russian
Extreme Project”. The founder of a new kind of extreme sports
– “B.A.S.E.-climbing”.
Achievements:
Gold - X-games 1998 (USA, San Diego),
Skyserfing
Gold - World Championship 1999 (Australia,
Korova), parachute sports
Silver - X-games 2000 (USA, San-Francisco)
Silver - 2d World Air Games 2001 (Spain,
Granada)
Gold - World Cup 2002 (Austria)
Gold - European Championship 2002 (Spain,
Empuriabrava)
Gold - Russian National Championships
(1997 - 2003)
Gold - Russian Championship on
mountaineering 2002
Gold - world champion on parachute
sports 2003 (France, GAP)
climbed a lot of classical complex routes
in areas of Caucasus, mountains Fanskie, Ak-Su and Karavshin.
took part in Championship of USSR in 1989-1991
in a technical class under the formula - a maximum quantity of
ascents within two weeks.
took part in the project “Seven summits”
from 1994 for 1996. Under the project he summited Elbrus (5642
m, Caucasus, Russia), Mont Blanc (4810 m, Europe), Aconcagua (6960
m, S.America,), Kilimanjaro, (5885 m, Tanzania, Africa), Karsten
peak (5040 m, Oceania, Papua New Guinea
in 2000 he organized “Russian Extreme
Project” company. Under the project unique B.A.S.E expeditions
to: Venezuela, Norway, Switzerland, Mexico, France, Italy, Malaysia,
Arctic Canada (Baffin's Island), Greenland, Kamchatka were carried
out.
hobby: snowboard, children
likes: salads from fresh vegetables, cheese,
apples and good whisky
Seregin
Arcady
born on June, 28 1959, in Ussuriisk
started to be engaged in mountaineering
in 1976 in Barnaul
in 1982-1984 was a member of Transbaikalian
army team.
in 1982 graduated Altay State University,
speciality - physicist.
The most remembered routes:
El-Capitan (The Nose, Salathe Wall, Lurking
Fear, Zodiac, Sunkist, Atlantic Ocean Wall, Reticent Wall (A5)).
He became the champion of Russia in a technical class for sending
Reticent Wall route.
Annapurna, Chris Bonnington's famous"Annapurna
South Face" ascent route
Cho Oyu, classical route
Manaslu, South-East ridge, new route
Pumori, South-West ridge
Everest salvage operations up to 8600 m
Lhotse, South face, Expedition of the Ministry
of Emergency Measures of Russia, salvage operations up to 7500
m.
Married. The son is16 years old, the daughter
is 3 years.
Director of Open Company “Donetsk mountain
club”. Chairman of Regional Federation of Mountaineering and Sports
Hobby: book-reading
Likes okroshka and “White Muscat of the
Red stone” wine
Dorfman
Lev
born on August, 25, 1961 in Moscow.
graduated STANKIN In 1983, speciality
- engineer - electromechanic
started to be engaged in mountaineering
and rock-climbing in the mountaineering club of Moscow Power Engineering
Institute (coaches V.Mamonov, A.Kayachev) since 1983
from 1994 for 1996 took part in the project
“Seven summits” (heads A.Abramov, J.Saveliev). Under the project
he summited Elbrus (5642 m, Caucasus, Russia), Mont Blanc (4810
m, Europe), Aconcagua (6960 m, S.America), McKinley (Alaska, 6194
m), Kilimanjaro, (5885 m, Tanzania, Africa), Karsten peak (5040
m, Oceania, Papua New Guinea
in 1997-1998 summited Korzhenevskaya peak
(7495m), Khan Tengri peak (7010m)
Bigwall climbing:
1995 - El Capitan "Nose", 6À (the
USA, California, the head A.Abramov)
1999 - Kyukyurtlyu, 6B (Central
Caucasus, the head A.Abramov) – 3rd place in Russian championship
in a technical class.
Since 2001 he is a camera-man in
"Russian Extreme Project" (the leader V.Rozov) and participated
in following expeditions:
2003
B.A.S.E climbing, Nalumasortoq,
Greenland
BASE jumping in Arko, Italy
2002.
B.A.S.E climbing, Great Sail Peak Expedition,
Baffin's Island, Arctic Canada;
BASE jumping in a cave “ Sonata
de Las Golondrinas”, Mexico;
started to be engaged in taking photographs
in 1990, now a professional photographer
made photosession of a dome of Temple of
Christ the Savior, a dome of Pokrovsky cathedral (Temple of Vasily
Blazhenny), chiming clock on Spasskaya Tower (being directly on
a chiming clock) and many other projects.
climbed a lot in mountains of Caucasus,
Central Asia, Altay, and Europe.
from 1994 for 1996 took part in the project
“Seven summits” (heads A.Abramov, J.Saveliev). Under the project
he summited Elbrus (5642 m, Caucasus, Russia), Aconcagua (6960
m, S.America), Kilimanjaro, (5885 m, Tanzania, Africa), Punchak
Jaya (India)
Valery
Rozov . B.A.S.E. Interview for Mountain.RU
