The lower part of the route line
The North Face
The leader of the expedition
is Victor Kozlov
senior coach is Nikolay Chernij
Pyatnitsyn, Rostov - na-Donu
Doctor: Sergey Bychkovsky, Ekaterinburg
Videooperators: (up to 6200m) Igor Borisenko,
Photographer: Vladimir Kuptsov
Terms of the expedition: from February,
25 till June, 9, 2004
Tukhvatullin, Podolsk - Tashkent
- Centro Credit Bank
- New Group Industrial League
- Double V GROUP
- QATAR AIRWAYS
- RedFox outdoor eqipment
- Via inmarsat russia marsat
- НТВ plus
- IRIDIUM Technologies
- ASIAN Trekking
The head of the expedition
Victor Kozlov reports: Viktor Volodin
and Viktor Bobok successfully summited Everest at 9:20 local
time. They are descending via normal route to ABC.
Three-man team Kuznetsov (leader), Sokolov, Vinogradsky
and a three-man team Shabalin (leader), Ilyas Tukhvatullin,
Andrey Mariev descended to the ABC settled on a classical
route, there they were met by Jury Ermachek and Bukunich.
Victor Volodin and Victor Bobok spend the night at the camp
V at 8600m. If tomorrow weather allow, they will make a summit
bid. All the expeditions left the base camp. Only our expedition
and expedition led by Abramov are staying there.
The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov
reports: This morning in 9:15 local
time Petr Kuznetsov, Gleb Sokolov and Evgueny Vinogradsky
summited Everest. Tommorow Viktor Volodin and Viktor Bobok
will make the summit bid.
Mt. Everest the North
Face is completed!!!
The head of the expedition
Victor Kozlov reports: Today at
10 a.m. (Nepal time) Pavel Shabalin's group (+ Iliyas Tukhvatullin
and Andrey Mariev) have completed the North Face and reached
the summit of the Mt. Everest! But the expedition is not
finished. Three-man team led by Petr Kuznetsov (+ Gleb Sokolov
and Eugeny Vinogradsky) and duo Victor Volodin - Victor Bobok
continue to work on the route. Jury Koshelenko is descending.
On May, 29 2004 at 18-06 Victor
Kozlov called and informed the details:
On May, 27 the group Shabalin-Tukhvatullin-Mariev
left the camp at 8300m upward taking a tent, ropes, gas
and food. The weight of rucksacks was too heavy for such altitude.
They ascended at 8600m and rested against extremely complex
rocks preliminary VI graded there. They tried to climb difficult
site, but, having just made 0,5 pitch they had to stop and
spend the night there. It did not come easily to work at such
altitude. The guys settled the Camp V (8600 m): it is a small
tent with only a stove and a little of food in it. They do
not have sleeping bags and spent the night in down parkas.
Today they continued to work on rocks and managed to make
one more pitch. And today they are going to spend the night
in the same place at on 8600m!!! The guys have not enough
oxygen: only 2 cylinders for a person, because they just could
not carry away any more, and anybody did not count on such
turning-point. Therefore they have to save oxygen using it
extremely seldom and on minimal charge. Tomorrow they will
try to pass more to the left - it seems it is a bit easier
to climb there... Tomorrow they either will make their way
up to the summit or have to descend - it is impossible to
spend the fourth day at the altitude of 8600m.
Group " Siberia " (Kuznetsov,
Vinogradsky and Sokolov) is at 7800m now. Today they descended
to the camp II to take a rope, and then climbed up to 7800,
and then higher. They left the gear on the 14-th pitch after
7800m. Tomorrow they are going to haul all the gear at on
8600 (right away in the camp V).
The third group had some changes:
after spending 2 nights in the camp II at 7200m, Koshelenko
descended to ABC without any special reasons. Bobok and Volodin
remained at the camp II and tomorrow they will ascend at 7800m.
Our congratulations to the Russian command
led by Odintsov summited Jannu!
We hope that the God will not leave us!
On May, 27 The head
of the expedition Victor Kozlov reports:
The weather is very bad, it is snowing. Pavel Shabalin's
group (+ Iliyas Tukhvatullin and Andrey Mariev) ascended the
camp IV at 8300. A three-man team led by Petr Kuznetsov (+
Gleb Sokolov and Eugeny Vinogradsky) is in the third camp.
The forecast varies all the time. If tomorrow weather
is normal, the guys will continue ascent.
On May, 24 the weather began to improve. We have a
favorable forecast within the next few days.
Today Pavel Shabalin's group (Shabalin, Tukhvatullin, Mariev)
left ABC, ascended the camp I and stay there to spend the
night. Nikolay Zhilin accompanies them up to С2 or С3,
helping to carry gear.
The day after tomorrow, on May, 26 the group " Siberia
" (Kuznetsov, Sokolov and Vinogradsky) is going to leave upwards.
Vladimir Arhipov will have a rest in the base camp. In
a day more, on May, 27, the group Koshelenko - Bobok - Volodin
will leave upward.
As you can understand, all of these means that the team launches
decisive trips to the wall. There won't be another opportunity.
Fixed ropes ends at 8400 m. The assault camp is at 8300m.
Shabalin's Group should make 3-4 pitches more upper 8400m,
and then they will go to the summit in free stile. If
for any reasons they do not manage to do that, the following
group will have to execute this task. There is a lot of snow.
Shabalin ascended up to 7200m, digging out all the fixed ropes
under the snow, and it is very hard work, as you know...
The bad thing that too many people were lost on the slopes
of Everest this year.
On May, 22 The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov
After May, 19 the weather has been just awful. The group
led by Petr Kuznetsov (Kuznetsov, Arhipov, Sokolov, Vinigradsky)
descended because they could not work above: visibility
was 40 meters, and it started snowing again.
Weather forecasters promise small improvement of weather since
tomorrow. If tomorrow the weather is a bit better, Pavel
Shabalin's group will leave upward in the morning.
On May, 20 The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov
Today it has been snowing all the day long above, and at 8400m
visibility was maximum 40-50 meters. All the wall stays snow-white.
Because of the bad weather the guys did not manage not
possible to work as we intended, the group led by Petr Kuznetsov
(Kuznetsov, Vladimir Arhipov, Gleb Sokolov and Evgeny Vinogradsky)
will spend the night at 7800m again. We hope, that tomorrow
weather will allow to climb above 8400m. Pavel Shabalin's
group (Shabalin - Ilias Tutkhvatullin and Andrey Mariev) returned
to the base camp from the hotel after having a rest and at
evening radiosession we will decide what to do further.
On May, 19 The
head of the expedition Victor Kozlov reports:
Today weather was unstable: it was clouded and snowing slightly.
The group led by Petr Kuznetsov (Kuznetsov - Arhipov -
Sokolov - Vinogradsky) descended to spend the night in camp
III at 7800m. Today they accomplished a great work: they managed
to made some pitches and reached the bastion altitude of 8400m.
On the previous point - 8270m - they made a site under the
tent and hauled there the tent and a part of gear.
Tomorrow Kuznetsov's group leaves upward to continue fixing,
and to spend the night already at 8270m. Today is Petr Kuznetsov's
We wish him many happy returns of the day!
17.05 The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov reports:
Pavel Shabalin's group (Shabalin - Ilias Tuthvatullin- Andrey
Mariev) descended to the base camp to have a rest. The group
led by Peter Kuznetsov (Kuznetsov- Gleb Sokolov- Vladimir
Arhipov - Eugeny Vinogradsky) went out to change working group.
Yesterday we had a nuisance: at 16 o'clock on local time somebody
threw off an empty oxygen cylinder from the side of the classical
route. It was the miracle that it flew near by the guys and
nobody was hurt. Today at 6.00 a.m. a history repeated - one
more cylinder flew absolutely near by the guys working on
the wall. I do not know, who made that, but it is obvious,
what it was the people having their summit trip. We'd like
to address to all climbers: please, do not throw off empty
oxygen cylinders. People work on the wall!
15.05 The head of the expedition
Victor Kozlov reports:
The group led by Pavel Shabalin (Shabalin, Ilias Tutkhvatullin,
Andrey Mariev) continues to work on the route and today they
have reached 8270m. Having worked all the day because
the weather allowed they descended in the tent only at nine
o'clock in the evening and they will continue work on the
Four-man group led by Peter Kuznetsov (Kuznetsov, Gleb Sokolov,
Vladimir Arhipov and Evgeny Vinogradsky) will leave from 6200m
tomorrow and ascend to change working Pavel Shabalin's group.
14.05 The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov
The three-man group led by Pavel Shabalin (Pasha Shabalin,
Ilias Tukhvatullin, Andrey Mariev), works on the wall. Yesterday
they managed to made five pitches and today they made four
difficult rocky pitches more and went at 8120 meters. Shabalin's
group will continue working on the route for two - three days
more, and then the group led by Petr Kuznetsov will change
The group led by Ermachek descended to the hotel to have a
rest. If Shabalin's group manage to fix the rope up to 8400m
and set the tent there and if the weather is good the group
led by Petr Kuznetsov will make the summit attempt. Shabalin's
group (Shabalin,Tukhvatullin, Mariev) works without oxygen.
Bukinich will not leave to work on the wall: it is too hard
for him, he is too young for such altitude and the doctor
do not let him to do that.
Weather is normal, we've got the good forecast for some days,
but further they promise amplification of a wind.
13.05 Everest North Face. We've
reached 8000 meters!
The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov reports: the team
has broken a barrier of 8000 meters! The group led by Pavel
Shabalin in working now, and four-man group of Peter Kuznetson
is ascending from the smart hotel (where they had a rest)
to change the working group. Groups of Jury Koshelenko and
Jury Ermachek are staying at the hotel having a rest now.
8000 is done, and further the most interesting begins!
Tomorrow we leave upward. Mountain is very serious, the wall
is challenge and very serious. The final crucial point is
coming now. Shabalin group will work 2-3 days more, and then
our turn will come.
The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov reports:
Pavel Shabalin wishes his daughter Masha happy birthday and
all the expedition joins his congratulations.
There is 3-rd tent settled at 7800. Today Jury Koshelenko
and Victor Bobok spent the night there. Most likely Alexey
Bukinich will leave the expedition. He is still young and
cannot work at such altitude.
The three-man team (Shabalin, Tukhvatullin, Mariev) left 7200
upward with a load. Today the high-altitude sherpas spend
the night at 7200. They will help to haul loads at 7800 for
2 days. In 2 days if the weather allows (and we have the forecast
good in the meanwhile) Shabalin's three-man team will start
fixing the difficult bottom part of the bastion from 8000m.
Everything depends on Shabalin's group working.
Then Kuznetsov's group " Siberia " will replace them: tomorrow
they will finish their rest and come back from the chic hotel.
We continue our ascent. We still have a small stock of time.
State of health is normal.
Eugeny Vinogradarsky reports:
Group " Siberia " (Peter Kuznetsov, Eugeny Vinogradsky, Gleb
Sokolov, Vladimir Arhipov) safely descended to the base camp
to have a rest and that day went in the settlement of Chomolungma
for high-grade rest in " a green zone ". Under the plan the
group will stay there for 4 days.
Working on the route " Siberia " group settled the new
camp at 7600m and fixed the ropes up to 7900m directly up
to a rocky bastion, which remains the last serious crux on
a way to the summit. Now two other groups are above. The
team is full of optimism!
The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov informs:
Yesterday the group led by Petr Kuznetsov managed to settle
the tent, and it is our second camp at 7550m. Having spent
the night already in this camp since the morning we continued
working on the wall. There were 4 pitches made before and
today we managed to fix five ropes more. In a result the expedition
have reached 7800 meters. We have got 4-5 pitches left up
to the beginning of the rocky bastion. Tomorrow the guys plan
to engage in fixing these ropes, and then will descend to
have a rest. Today Ermachek's group (Ermachek-Volodin-Zhilin)
left the camp I to change Kuznetsov's group that is going
to descend to 6200m. Bastion's altitude is 7900m. The main
task of Ermachek's group is to set there next camp. Then the
groups led by Koshelenko and Shabalin by turns will begin
fixing the bastion. So, for today - the altitude is 7800m.
On "NTV + Sports" telechannel
in " Peak interest " programme every Tuesday and Friday there
is the direct broadcast about expedition going.
Huge greetings, good weather
and success Odintsov's team on Jannu.
Everybody descended to have a rest. Storm winds are heavy
blowing above. Tents hold the wind in the meanwhile. According
to the forecast windy weather will last couple of days in
area of Everest...
Eugeny Vinogradarsky reports:
Weather seems to improve. In the morning we left for working
upward for 4 days therefore I will not contact with you. For
the last days winds have torn 3 tents and our wardroom. But
our purpose is to put one more camp. By different estimations
we have reached the altitude of about 7600-7800 meters, and
we really need the assault camp at 8500m!
The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov
On May, 1-2-3 nobody worked on the wall, because of a very
strong wind, which did not allow to work. Today the weather
is more - less adjusted, now on the wall the group led by
Peter Kuznetsov (group " Siberia": Eugeny Vinogradsky,
Gleb Sokolov, Vladimir Arhipov) works. Yesterday they ascended
at 7200m, released from snow fixed ropes, corrected setting
of the tent and spent the night.
Today they climbed upper, reached the end of fixed ropes,
i.e. 7750m. The previous group (Pavel Shabalin's group) had
preliminary lifted a tent there. The group led by Kuznetsov
made a platform under the tent hardly lower 7550m, now they
are descending at 7200 and will spend the night there, and
tomorrow will ascend upper again: two climbers will engage
in making the platform, and the second two climbers will work
on the wall above. Weather seems to get going right. That's
all the news for this moment.
Shabalin's group descended, the others are working on the
wall or approaching to it. Tomorrow I together with Sherpa
will leave and we will try to employ them. Such unstable weather
creates uncertainty. All the rest things while are normal;
all of us are more or less healthy, without traumas (I knock
on a tree).
"We have fixed ropes up to 7500 m. Koshelenko's group descended,
Shabalin's group starts to continue working. Everything is
OK for a while. Today we have a great creative victory
- at last our sherpas reached up to the first tent at 6200m:
they could not do that before. They lifted up 27 heavy ropes.
The weather holds changeable, but practically the guys have
not lost any day".
April, 29. E.Vinogradsky called. (5200 m, 16.00 local time):
Right now we communicated with Ilias Tukhvatullin. We
can not see them from the base camp. But according to his
information Shabalin's group made 4 pitches more on the rocky
site higher than a snow field. But, probably, it appears simple
rocks - they ascended very fast. In total there are 15 pitches
from the camp at 7200m.
They are going to climb upper and make somewhere a platform.
Ermachek, Zhilin and Volodin have a rest in the base camp.
Koshelenko and Bobok have just descended now, and Bukinich
has stayed at the base camp for two days too: he doesn't work,
because he is still badly prepared, but already gets used
to the wall...
Nikolay Cherny coordinates all actions from the camp at 6200m.
He has lived there for a week.
Weather is adjusted, it is freezing, and the wind changed
direction. I should note it is very great deal that our high-altitude
sherpas started to drag cargoes up to 7200m. They are good
fellows, ambitious guys.
If they work like now farther, they will help us very much!
We would like to congratulate you with the coming 1st of May
and hope that you will meet it to the full!
Victor Volodin called from the Wall of Everest (6200м):
"...audibility was not so clear, but we managed to understand
something: Ermachek's group worked above for three days and
fixed the rope approximately up to 7500-7600 meters. We had
only a little pitch left to beginning flattening under the
rocky bastion above, but we were run out of bolts. The character
of a surface - the tile plates covered with a snow and ice.
We basically use anchor hooks at belay station. The bad weather:
a strong wind, snow and bad visibility of, a maximum, 50 -100
meters complicates our ascent.
Earlier Kuznetsov's group made three pitches above 7300m and
settled a tent. Our group is descending to the base camp:
now we are at 6200, then will descend to 5600m and then -
to 5000m, and have a rest there. Koshelenko's group will change
us, but not with its full complement: Bukinich feels not well
and remains at the base camp, Zhilin feels unwell too. The
sherpas work only up to 7000 meters and do not go further.
The heaviest thing is to ascend for changing working group:
we have to jug about 30 pitches. Every day we move ahead and
ahead. We work in any weather. Our greetings to everybody.
On April, 27. Victor Volodin calls:
It has been bad weather for some days. Jury Koshelenko's group
is on the route now. Having made five pitches they reached
approximately 7700m. We are in a good mood. Yura Ermachek
and I are resting in the tent now and engaged in reading Playboy
The group led by Kuznetsov descended to the camp at 5600m,
and tomorrow we will have a rest day at 5200m. Everything
is all right. It has been heavy snowing for two days, but
the good thing: fresh snow covered slopes and there are objectively
less falling stones.
The "Siberia" group has already made two pitches above 7300m
and found a good place to spend the next night on the Wall.
The groups work by turns. We gave the sherpas good training
and all three of them perfectly work on the wall, lift cargoes
and help us a lot.
The weather holds quite good but practically every day it
is snowing, very strong winds, blizzards. At 6200m the temperature
is negative 15. But as a whole, we are in not too bad conditions.
We continue fixing the rope rain or shine: the group led by
Jury Koshelenko worked even in a blizzard. The first impressions
from the wall: all pitches are possible to climb, there is
no strongly pronounced buttress, and stones are falling constantly
The place found under the tent is out of a danger of stone-falls
and rather safe. The guys have already experienced a lot,
but the situation is in norm, it's just the working moments.
Every day we are moving forward and forward.
April, 14. Base camp. 21-30 on local time.
E. Vinogradsky calls from the base camp:
The schedule of work:
Today our group led by Kuznetsov and the group led by Ermachek
have a rest at the base camp. Shabalin's group is at 6200,
the group led by Koshelenko is above. Tomorrow we leave in
АВС-I at 5600m. So we fix the rope in four groups, replacing
Our way lays directly via the center, hardly more to the left
of a hanging glacier. One of the problems is to set the camp
somewhere at 6900m but there is not any convenient place under
the tents basically. Another problem is in a strong wind and
dust snow avalanches and also stone falls happen when the
sun is very hot in the afternoon.
We organize reliable belay using basically ice screws and
rare firn pitons. There are practically not any cracks in
rocks and we hammer anchor hooks.
While they drag up to 6200m from the beginning of the glacier
those cargoes which have been thrown there by usual porters.
Soon we hope to involve sherpas in work above, on the rope,
which we are fixing now.
Cough torments practically all of us, but it is quite normal.
The air is very dry, the breath is forced, but it is no trouble,
it is the usual working moments.
Communication with external world:
Notebooks we left in the base camp, but the most of the time
we are above. But, apparently, the communication by Internet
is impossible. We have only one satellite phone, so I could
use it this day.
The expedition leader Victor Kozlov
informs from the base camp:
Four groups led by Shabalin, Koshelenko, Kuznetsov and Ermachek
have already fixed the rope. Starting from the bergschrund
there are 18 ropes fixed. We climbed up to 6900m and lifted
upward the tent. There is the opportunity that the group
led by Koshelenko will climb to set the first high-altitude
camp, because now it is far to descend.
Yesterday under Nikolay Zhilin's initiative in АВС-1 we organized
baths, all the guys remained pleased, and today we arranged
the baths in the base camp for Shabalin's groups. So now we
are short of birch twigs and called back and asked to provide
the expedition with them.
Pavel Shabalin informs: АВС-2 is settled on the plateau, at
6200m. It takes about 40 minutes to get from АВС-1 up to the
bergschrund. The first pitch "stand on end", and it seems
for this reason we will have the problems with high-altitude
porters soon. The Group of Koshelenko has left upwards: the
guys will try to settle tents there. We are planning to lead
a curriculum of high-altitude porters and to fix the rope
through the bergschrund to help the porters to carry further
We have to work on the Wall quickly and to move running,
stones fly like shrapnel: for this reason we have to take
a break after 16.00. It is cold enough: at 6200m the temperature
is about negative 13-15С, but at 6900m it is already negative
19С. There is a wind 6-8m/sec today. The weather pleases to
us. But approximately once in four days a strong wind
blows, we have even to hold the tent.
From Ermachek group we have the message, that they have rested
against hard rocks, and they are searching the right place
for spending the night. The impressions from the Wall: there
are slate steps on the contrary, smooth, slippery and it is
impossible, unreliab and unpleasant to organize the right
belay. We leave to continue fixing on an hour earlier, in
seven, instead of in eight, trying not to get under rockfalls.
The main thing: our health is all right.
Victor Kozlov, the head of the expedition
reports from the Base Camp:
"The porters have left downwards. Those guys who are not
fixing the rope, drag a cargo up to 6200m. Koshelenko's group
has descended to have a rest. The weather holds without
changes - since the morning the sun is shining, and it is
snowing in the evening. But the equipment given by RedFox,
helps to overcome all difficulties and any cold. Other expeditions
began to appear at the base camp".
Victor Kozlov, the head of the expedition,
reports from the Base Camp:
"We settled the first advanced base camp (АВС-1) at 5600m
and made the full carry of 5200 kg cargo with the help of
120 yaks. Further the yaks refused to go. We settled АВС-2
at 6200m right under the Wall, and set some tents. 110
porters within two days helped to lift a cargo. At 6000m we
have a serious problem: porters work at the altitude from
5600 up to 6000 meters, up to the beginning of the glacier,
and refuse to go further. We cut down steps for them, Pavel
Shabalin stands in running shoes on the glacier, showing the
safety of the route, but these people arrange revolution,
throw things and leave downwards. Thus, at 6000 meters there
are accumulated 2500kg of cargo. Now we try to solve this
problem (which many expeditions collide with) including the
help of additional money.
Despite of all complexities, we began fixing the bottom
part of the route: it's has fixed about 250m of the rope.
The group headed by Koshelenko descended today and Shabalin's
group will leave tomorrow and the day after tomorrow Kuznetsov's
group will work. Everything goes under the plan.
The weather since morning is usually good, it is snowing in
the evening. At the base camp, 5200m, participants of military
Indian expedition arrived".
The head of the expedition Viktor
The two groups leaded by Koshelenko and Shabalin are at 5600m
now. Tomorrow the first 50 yaks will do the first full carry
up to 5600m. Also for tomorrow the other two groups leaded
by Ermachek and Kuznetsov are planning to ascend 5600m and
stay there to settle a Camp, and Koshelenko's and Shabalin's
groups will enter the Wall. The weather lasts tolerable.
Viktor Kozlov reports:
" Everything goes right way, the two groups began upwards..."
Victor Kozlov, the head of the expedition, reports:
Yesterday we arrived to the Base Camp and settled the tents.
Then we celebrated Victor Kozlov's birthday. Today there is
puja ceremony in Base camp, and tomorrow we are waiting for
the visit of the Llama. We complete a cargo for lifting
it in the advanced base camp, which we are planning to set
at 5600m. Tomorrow we will send forward the first part of
50 yaks. One day before that the first two groups will go
to fix the ropes and mark the route. Everything is OK, the
weather is excellent, but a wind amplifying after afternoon
prevents a little.
The Everest Expedition leader Vikror
Kozlov reports (by the phone. March, 29): We are in Shugar
at 4200m now. Tomorrow we are planning to make our way further
by jeeps (three loaded trucks follow us) and arrive in Everest
Base Camp. The arrangement there could potentionally take
two or three days but the advanced group might make their
first trip pushing the route earlier.
Viktor Kozlov dispatches: 0n March,
20 the team has arrived in Katmandu and is planning to
make its way to Everest North Face on March, 26. Acclimatization
process has completed now. The guys are a little bit tired
after Ama Dablam ascent and languiding with the Katmandu's
heat but they feel very positive about the expedition.
The guys called in from Katmandu.
They are leaving for Tibet on March 25-26.
We have a flash call from Namche Bazaar:
"All the guys descended safe and sound. We stripped the
base camp and our caravan left furhter. Now we are in Namche
Bazaar waiting for the other participants of the expedition.
We are going forward to Lukla and further on March, 20 by
plane to Katmandu. All of us are alive and well. We miss you
Victor Kozlov, the head of the expedition.
THE EVEREST NORTH FACE TEAM SUCCESSFUL:
SUMMIT ON AMA DABLAM
The Everest North Face expedition leader Viktor Kozlov just
called in with the latest from Ama Dablam:
The third group (Yuri Koshelenko, Viktor Bobok and Alexey
Bukinich) reached the summit of Ama Dablam at about 11.25am
local time on March, 16th. The acclimatization process is
completed now. Everybody is back in fine form. Tommorow we
will be returning with caravan from Base Camp to Lukla and
will then fly to Katmandu on March, 20.
Viktor Kozlov just called in with
a live voice dispatch: Today, at 13h30 local time, the second
group (Petr Kuznetsov, Nikolay Chorniy, Vladimir Arhipov and
Gleb Sokolov) has summited Ama Dablam.
The second group is en route to Base Camp. The 3d group is
at 6200m now and will set out tommorow early morning to consider
summit bid. In the morning we enjoyed sunny weather condition
but in the afternoon there is high cirrus we got used to seeing
Ama Dablam Summited!
Everest NF expedition leader Viktor Kozlov called in to report
that today on 14h05 local time the first group (Pavel Shabalin,
Ilyas Tukhvatullin, Andrey Mariev, Yury Ermachek and Nikolay
Zhilin) successfully summited Ama Dablam. The second group
is at 6200m. Today is mostly cloudy weather with fog. Things
are progressing well, we are uderway and feeling great about
Today is the third trekking day. We have made trekking
Lukla - Namche-Bazaar.
It is still cold in the mountains. You cam feel signs of spring
only up to Namche-Bazaar. Storm winds are raging in the capital
Solo - Khumbu. The winds roaring take away tin-plates from
the roofs of loggias and the dust hammers in eyes. Tomorrow
we continue our travel to Pangboche. We are taking a lot of
photos from the road. And the small photoreport of our
plane trip to Lukla and trekking up to Namche is applied.
Victor Volodin on the approach to Ama-Dablam!
Victor Volodin - "The Father* on the
approach to Ama-Dablam! I hope to reach the Northern
face of Everest!"
* the Father - so all people who know Victor Volodin
call him because he never refuse their humble requests.
The old folk
Today it is our last day in Katmandu. Tomorrow we take
off to Lukla and begin trekking to the foot of Ама-Dablam.
We arrived safely and bought here necessary food and equipment.
There was a briefing in the Ministry of tourism of Nepal.
We met the representatives of the Russian embassy.
All of the members of the expedition are in a good mood. We
send to you a small exposition of photos about our start from
Sheremetyevo airport, a night in a transit zone of the airport
in Doha and also the first days in Katmandu.
Faithfully Yours, i.e. our Expedition.
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition via
the center of North Face
A combined team of Russian
climbers supported by Russian Mountaineering Federation is
going to make the first ascent of Mt. Everest's North Face
via the center.
The Expedition takes
off from Moscow on February, 25. Twenty climbers are going
to the Himalayas, many of them were the members of the team
successfully summited the last world inclimbed "8-thousand"
- Lhotse Middle in the spring of 2001.
The leader of the expedition
is Victor Kozlov, the senior coach is Nikolay Chernij.
The list of members of the expedition will be announced at
the press conference on February, 20, which is taking place
in World Trade Centre, to the address: Krasnopresnenskaya
nab., 12, entrance 4, floor 1, in a conference-hall. The beginning
is at 19.00, free entrance.
At the press conference
there will be all participants of the expedition, sponsors
of the project, guests of honour and representatives of mass-media.
The special attention was given to the preliminary preparation
of the future ascent. In May, 2002 the crew had made route
reco - the guys came to the basis of the North Face, having
planned a line of the ascent on the summit of Everest. In
the spring of 2003 the second reconnaissance party managed
to climb via the center of the North Face up to the altitude
of 6800 meters.
The unique ascent is possible!