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  ,   4000.

On July, 11 - September, 08, 2004 a complex expedition organized by Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing (MFMRC) and Sports Club of Moscow Aviation Institute (AI) aimed to summit the highest peak of China Pamir and Kun-Lun - Kongur, 7719m, North face, via a new route will take place.

  ,   4000.
Kongur, a view from the north.
A general view of the route, altitude difference of 4000m.

Expedition team consists of 17 high-altitude climbers (MFMRC) and mountain tourists (MAI club).
The head of the complex expedition
is Jury Hokhlov,
the head of MAI tourist command -
Andrey Lebedev.

The expedition set to lead a new route to Kongur summit from the north. In addition the tourists plan to do that within the framework of a mountain campaign of the highest category of complexity.

News
The plan of the route

The first Russian expedition on Kongur was organized by Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing in 1998. Since then the team have repeatedly visited Kashgarskie mountains. Almost all its members summited the third highest top of the area - Muztagh-Ata (7546m). In 2002 and 2003 the team tried to summit Kongur, first via the north face, then from the southwest, however the mountain did not want to surrender. The team has perfect conception about the area, weather character and conditions of ice-snow top cover.

MAI Tourist Command has repeatedly won National championship on extreme mountain trekking of the highest category of complexity (1990, 1999, 2001, 2003). In 2000 it carried out the independent mountain campaign in mountains of China for the first from Przhevalsky time. The team has in its active unique 470-kilometer trekking "Pamir marathon" (1999) with ascents on peaks of Revolution (6974) and Lenina (7134) and 370-kilometer "Zaaliysky marathon" (2001) with first ascent on Beleuli peak (6065) and traverse of Lenina peak.


The detailed map with marked route


The plan of the route

Check out the previous story on the Mountain.RU:
Kongur-2003
Kongur-2003.The Ascent Datas

 

Complex expedition of Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing (MFMRC) and Sports Club of Moscow Aviation Institute (AI) on Kongur (7719m) (Kun-Lun Shan Mountains, China Pamir)

Russian

Portfolio


Bottom part of the route

Shamalo's lines (2003.)


Altitude Estimation (summit)


Upper part of the route, a high-resolution

The Crux

Bottom part of the route, a side view

Summit part of the route

 

Kongur expeditions, 7719
(38o 36' 0", 75o 17' 59")

Year

Result

Route

Country

Head

Note

1981

Attempt

SW ridge (Southern ridge of Karayalyak peak)

Great Britain

Chris Bonington

summited Karayalyak peak (7245)

1981

Attempt

North-East rest

Japan

Ruchi Kotani, Naoki Takada

 

1981

Attempt

North ridge

Japan

Ruchi Kotani

Ioyi Teranishi, Mitsunori Shigi and Shinie Matsumi were lost in the avalanche

Probably, they reached the top, and were lost during descent.

1981

Summit

West ridge

Great Britain

Chris Bonington

Chris Bonington, Al Rouse, Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker reached the maim summit. The team ascended the east top 7625 too where the northern ridge led, but they did not found any traces of Japanese climbers staying

1982

Attempt

       

1983

Attempt

North face

     

1986

Attempt

       

1989

Summit

North ridge

Japan

   

1998

Attempt

West ridge

Jury Hohlov

Russia

The first Russian expedition. Climbed up to 6750m

1999

Attempt

North ridge

Krzysztof Treter

Poland

Climbed up to 6000m

2000

Attempt

West ridge

Netherlands

A.Ershov

Climbed up to 6300m

2002

Attempt

North ridge

Russia

Jury Hohlov

Climbed up to 5700 (1200m of fixed rope)

2003

Attempt

West ridge

Russia

Jury Hohlov

Climbed up to 6850m (I.Volodin, V.Legkih, I.Hlyustikov)

2003

Attempt

From the north through West ridge

Russia

Valery Shamalo

Climbed up to 6900

2004
Summit
North Face
Russia, St.Petersburg
Valery Shamalo
2004
Summit
North ridge
Russia, Moscow
Jury Hohlov
2004
Summit
North ridge
Russia, Krasnoyarsk
Nikolay Zakharov
V. Arkhipov, A. Mikhalitsin, S. Filatov reached the summit

 

 

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