On July, 11 - September, 08, 2004 a complex
expedition organized by Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing
(MFMRC) and Sports Club of Moscow Aviation Institute (МAI) aimed to summit the
highest peak of China Pamir and Kun-Lun - Kongur, 7719m, North face, via
a new route will take place.
Kongur, a view from the north.
A general view of the route, altitude difference of 4000m.
Expedition team consists of 17 high-altitude
climbers (MFMRC) and mountain tourists (MAI club).
The head of the complex expedition is Jury Hokhlov,
the head of MAI tourist command - Andrey Lebedev.
The expedition set to lead a new route
to Kongur summit from the north. In addition the tourists plan to do that within
the framework of a mountain campaign of the highest category of complexity.
The first Russian expedition on Kongur
was organized by Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing in
1998. Since then the team have repeatedly visited Kashgarskie mountains. Almost
all its members summited the third highest top of the area - Muztagh-Ata (7546m).
In 2002 and 2003 the team tried to summit Kongur, first via the north face,
then from the southwest, however the mountain did not want to surrender. The
team has perfect conception about the area, weather character and conditions
of ice-snow top cover.
MAI Tourist Command has repeatedly won
National championship on extreme mountain trekking of the highest category
of complexity (1990, 1999, 2001, 2003). In 2000 it carried out the independent
mountain campaign in mountains of China for the first from Przhevalsky time.
The team has in its active unique 470-kilometer trekking "Pamir marathon" (1999)
with ascents on peaks of Revolution (6974) and Lenina (7134) and 370-kilometer
"Zaaliysky marathon" (2001) with first ascent on Beleuli peak (6065) and traverse
of Lenina peak.
Complex
expedition of Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing
(MFMRC) and Sports Club of Moscow Aviation Institute (МAI) on Kongur
(7719m) (Kun-Lun Shan Mountains, China Pamir)
Ioyi Teranishi, Mitsunori Shigi and Shinie Matsumi were lost
in the avalanche
Probably, they reached the top, and were lost during descent.
1981
Summit
West ridge
Great Britain
Chris Bonington
Chris Bonington, Al Rouse, Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker reached
the maim summit. The team ascended the east top 7625 too where
the northern ridge led, but they did not found any traces
of Japanese climbers staying
1982
Attempt
1983
Attempt
North face
1986
Attempt
1989
Summit
North ridge
Japan
1998
Attempt
West ridge
Jury Hohlov
Russia
The first Russian expedition. Climbed up to 6750m
1999
Attempt
North ridge
Krzysztof Treter
Poland
Climbed up to 6000m
2000
Attempt
West ridge
Netherlands
A.Ershov
Climbed up to 6300m
2002
Attempt
North ridge
Russia
Jury Hohlov
Climbed up to 5700 (1200m of fixed rope)
2003
Attempt
West ridge
Russia
Jury Hohlov
Climbed up to 6850m (I.Volodin, V.Legkih,
I.Hlyustikov)
2003
Attempt
From the north through West ridge
Russia
Valery Shamalo
Climbed up to 6900
2004
Summit
North Face
Russia, St.Petersburg
Valery Shamalo
2004
Summit
North ridge
Russia, Moscow
Jury Hohlov
2004
Summit
North ridge
Russia, Krasnoyarsk
Nikolay Zakharov
V. Arkhipov, A. Mikhalitsin, S. Filatov
reached the summit
