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(31.03.2004)
Lafaille: Destination Makalu
Just three months after completing his "trilogy" (Dhaulagiri, Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak), Jean Christophe Lafaille has started his physical and mental preparations again and is putting the finishing touches to his plans for his next expedition to Nepal, this time to attempt to climb Makalu (8481m), the fifth highest mountain in the world. And once again Jean Christophe is preparing to launch a solo ascent on this impressive, mountain with it's characteristic pyramid shape. If he succeeds, Makalu will be the twelfth 8000 conquered by Lafaille, all without the use of supplementary oxygen, which he considers to be the equivalent of a performance enhancing drug!
Jean Christophe is set to depart at the beginning of April, accompanied by his wife Katia, who will be responsible for logistic support as well as media manager. Lafaille will also be taking extensive film footage and photographs, to be used in his forthcoming documentary on his achievements.
You can follow his expedition in real time and updates will be published on www.jclafaille.com, www.everestnews.com and naturally on www.ynews.info.

 

(31.03.2004)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Everest - 2004
Supported by the Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and RockClimbing
This expedition to Everest, the highest top of the World, is carried out within the framework of the project " 7 summits ". The purpose of the project is the ascents on the highest tops of all continents of the Earth. In the world less than 100 persons have conquered the 7 summits. (Less than has visited space!). The first action became an ascent to Elbrus (5642, Caucasus, Europe). Then was a successful ascent to Kilimanjaro (5895, Tanzania, Africa). In February 2004 the team successfully ascended to the summit of Aconcagua (6969, Argentina, Southern America) And now is the world's highest mountain Everest (8848) where the team takes off on the 7th of April

Our Everest Team is international and consists not only of Russian climbers.
Russia
Abramov Alexander (the leader) Moscow
Moskalev Dmitry Moscow
Zadokhin Vladimir Moscow
Rozhkov Ilya Ekaterinburg
Ryzhenko Arkadiy Ekaterinburg
Karapetyan Artur Perm
Gaidamak Vladimir Omsk
Uzbekistan
Tillahodjaev Dilmurad Tashkent
Georgia
Gujabidze Bidzina Tbilisi
Italy
Profumo Giorgio
Carbone Gianni
USA
D'Angelo Davide USA / Italy
Ulrich Marshall
For the first time in history of the conquest of Everest the Russian sportsmen plan the coverage of the expedition in a mode on-line. During expedition the video shooting will be conducted by digital video cameras. Then weekly the video data, with use of the satellite equipment, will be sent to Moscow. As duration of expedition of 10 weeks it is planned to send 8-10 blocks of video information, which will be used by a telechannel "SPORTS".
The evening devoted to the Expedition take place in club-cafe Alpindustria on the 6th of April at 19.00 We invite all of you to our evening!!!
You can receive information by phones: 165-64-38, 165-90-81 e-mail: komanda@alpindustria.ru

The leader of the Expedition Abramov Alexander

(31.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face
Victor Kozlov, the head of the expedition, reports:
Yesterday we arrived to the Base Camp and settled the tents. Then we celebrated Victor Kozlov's birthday. Today there is puja ceremony in Base camp, and tomorrow we are waiting for the visit of the Llama.
We complete a cargo for lifting it in the advanced base camp, which we are planning to set at 5600m. Tomorrow we will send forward the first part of 50 yaks. One day before that the first two groups will go to fix the ropes and mark the route. Everything is OK, the weather is excellent, but a wind amplifying after afternoon prevents a little.

(30.03.2004)
Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin. Marathon: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days is started!

March, 29
26/82. Val Ferret - hut Boccalatte

On Weekend, March, 27-28
26/82. Patrick made solo le Verte (4122m) and then teamed up with Didier Angeloz they scaled the Grande Rocheuse (4102m) and l'Aiguille du Jardin (4035m). Philippe descended to Chamonix for a couple of days to have a rest.

Friday, March, 26
The hut Torino (3322m) bivouac Canzio (3825m) via Dent du Geant (4013m), Aiguille (4001m) and Dome de Rochefort (4015m)

http://www.glenatpresse.com

(30.03.2004)
Odintsov called in with the latest from Panasonic-Jannu North Face expedition: Everything is settled with cargo, tommorow we will take flight to Tapledjung and on April, 4 we are going to be at Jannu Base Camp.

(30.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face
The Everest Expedition leader Vikror Kozlov reports (by the phone. March, 29): We are in Shugar at 4200m now. Tomorrow we are planning to make our way further by jeeps (three loaded trucks follow us) and arrive in Everest Base Camp. The arrangement there could potentionally take two or three days but the advanced group might make their first trip pushing the route earlier.

(26.03.2004)
Alexandre Odintsov reports: "We are in Katmandu now. Everything is OK excepting a "trifle" - a part of our cargo sended by Katar avia, fell into oblivion. Now we try to search it out and to find out what excactly we lose. Evidently the start of our expedition will be delaying. We don't despair of it counting on the local and on the all other Gods, and thinking that the situation will settle somehow..."

(24.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

Viktor Kozlov dispatches: 0n March, 20 the team has arrived in Katmandu and is planning to make its way to Everest North Face on March, 26. Acclimatization process has completed now. The guys are a little bit tired after Ama Dablam ascent and languiding with the Katmandu's heat but they feel very positive about the expedition.
Portfolio

(24.03.2004)
This Saturday the air space above Tallinn was controlled by the snowboarders. An astonishig 20 000 roaring fans showed up to watch the biggest extreme sports event in Estonian history.
The ramp was 24 metres high, over 70 metres long and covered with 400 tons of artificial snow. For second consecutive year Finnish rider Juha Rautanen proved to be invincible. The competition between Rautanen and second place winner Frode Scarboe from Norway was very tight. To the great exitement of the audience a local rider Mario Visnap was leading the competition after the second round of finals. Rautanen and Scarboe both exelled in the final third round of finals. Rautanens last trick got the highest score of the day - 26.9 points out of 30 possible points.

Final Ranks:
1. Juha Rautanen (FIN) 50.8
2. Frode Skarboe (NOR) 48.5
3. Mario Visnap (EST) 46
4. Sami Saarenpaa (FIN) 45.1
5. Jani Lammia (FIN) 39.6
6. Ilya Arzjutov (RUS) 37

(23.03.2004)
Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin. Marathon: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days is started!

Friday, March, 19
Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) par les Aiguilles du Diable (Corne du Diable 4064m, pointe Chaubert 4074m, pointe Mediane 4097m, pointe Carmen 4109m, l'Isolee 4114m), started from the hut Cosmiques.
Monday, March, 22
Aiguille du midi Chamonix by cable-way. Happy birthday Philippe!

http://www.glenatpresse.com

(19.03.2004)
Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin. Marathon: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days is started!
Wednesday, March, 17
Bivouac Eccles hut Gouter via mont Brouillard (4068m), Baretti (4006m), Louis Amedee (4470m), mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4765m), mont Blanc (4810m) and dome du Gouter (4304m)
Thursday, March, 18
Hut Gouter hut Cosmiques via aiguille de Bionnassay (4052m), mont Maudit (4465m) and mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m)
http://www.glenatpresse.com

(18.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

Yesterday, 17.03, Victor Volodin took off from Sheremetyevo-2 airport heading for Katmandu to join the Russian Everest, Center North Face expedition.
His relatives and friends actively saw him off and we join to them and wish him and the expedition victory and health.
Departing, Viktor promised to send regularly letters and photos.

 

 

(18.03.2004)
Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin. Marathon: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days is started! Punta Baretti
My phone rings! It's the guys! Patrick and Phillip woke up early this night at 2.30 and at about four o'clock in the morning they left in a direction of Emile Rey (4068m) pass in hope to rush by it (and the main thing, by its rockfalls attending the ascent) before the day's beginning. From there they started climbing Brouillard (4068m) - their first today's "4-thousand" mountain via the posh mixed ridge...
Luigi AmedeoThen they are going on the movement on the ridge up to summit of Baretti (4006m), their today's second "4-tousand" mountain. " It's a very beautiful, pyramidal top, with own charisma. Is a pity, that it is a little far," - Patrick comments.
After Baretti Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin are going to descend to Emile Rey pass again to head for their third "4-tousand" mountain of this day - Louis Amedee (4470m). Then they plan to make their trip further on the ridge to the fourth summit - Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4765m), and, at last,Mont Blanc at 17.20 the prospect to Mont Blanc (4810m) will be open, where a surprise on behalf of Eric Magnin, Marco Gaiani and Bug will expects them.
"The weather rings, the life is tremendously simple. We are in the good shape, but the day like today's is a little longish..."
Dome du Gouter But it will not be the end yet - in the evening, descending to the hut, they are going to summit the sixth "4-tousand" mountain of this day - Dome du Gouter (4304m). Thus, by this night 11 "4-tousand" mountains will be in their pocket.

Photo courtesy of http://www.club4000.it/, http://www.weltderberge.de/

http://www.glenatpresse.com

(18.03.2004)

Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin. Marathon: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days is started!
Mont Blanc  and  Grand Pilier d'Angle Tuesday, on March, 16 2004, 13.36 Patrick calls:
-Jean-Mi, could you look at the UIAA list to make clearer if there is the second "4-thousand" mountain on Blanche de Peuterey?
- I wonder what for?
- We are at the top and ask the question: if we can look for the other, more distant peak? It seems a pretty beginning.
I look at a list of official "4-thousand" mountains and understand that they probably asked about Gouter dome. Well, the guys are in the excellent shape.
Aiguille Blanche de PeutereyThey left Eccles (3850m) about 6.15 in the morning, then descended on Peuterey pass (3934m) for the following ascent on Grand Pilier d'Angle (4243m). Mixed climbing led them to a very delicate ridge and forced them to change the direction to leave for the right top.
Then they descended Grand Pilier d'Angle and again made their way up to Peuterey pass. From there the guys went directly to Blanche de Peuterey (4112m) and summited at 13.30.
As to the weather, it is remarkable. It is so warm, that "We stay in t-shorts", - Berhault says. We can hear Magnin's comments: "but with long sleeves!" As for their shape: "I sleep somewhere inside", - Phillip laughs. It remained only to descend from Eccles to them. And Patrick makes the last clarification: "I quite forgot to tell: we have climbed about 2500m difference of altitude in total!"

http://www.glenatpresse.com

(17.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

We have a flash call from Namche Bazaar:
"All the guys descended safe and sound. We stripped the base camp and our caravan left furhter. Now we are in Namche Bazaar waiting for the other participants of the expedition. We are going forward to Lukla and further on March, 20 by plane to Katmandu. All of us are alive and well. We miss you very much".
Victor Kozlov, the head of the expedition.

(17.03.2004)
ASIA TOURISM LTD informs us about the chronicle of peak Bayankol, 5841m, ascent (Central Tien Shan).
On March 10 a small independent expedition left to summit peak Bayankol, 5841m, Sary Dzhas ridge, Central Tien Shan. The members of the expedition: A. Puchinin, the leader B. Fedeshko V. Zhdanov A. Ishangaliev The route of ascent: from Eleven pass via the North-West ridge.
On March 15 the team was at Eleven pass. There was a very strong wind. Two their tents were torn. The guys could build the new tent from the torn tent's parts. The weather was very bad and if it not improves by tomorrow the group will descend. On March 16 - on evening communication the guys informed that after two-day waiting they were forced to recede. The weather became even more worsened - with a strong wind and snowing. They could not sustain four together in torn tent long time.
The next control communication is going to be on March 19 from the base camp " Akkol - Khan Tengri ".

(16.03.2004)
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko. Doublet: Baruntse North Face&Annapurna

Simone Moro reports:
After 13 day I will fly to Kathmandu to try the North Face of Baruntse that is still unclimbed.
This face is in front of Island Peak and all the trekkers that will come to that mountain will have the possibility to see us at the base camp or on the face during the climb.      Here it is a photo with our theoretical route. As you know many factors could change our climbing line. There will be 2000 meters of vertical ice and rocky face and we will try to climb in light style. The top of our face is not the real summit and for that reason we will have to continue our climb on the final ridge till the real summit 7129 meters. Our idea is to descent from the north ridge (left ridge on the photo). Denis Urubko and Bruno Tassi will be my partner during all the climb.
All the information and daily reports will appear on my web site http://www.simonemoro.com/ My web site has English, Spanish and Italian version and in a few days I will have also the Russian version. It will be the first web site of a professional climber from west countries (not CIS) with this language version. All the news will appear in all these 4 languages + german After Baruntse only me and Denis Urubko will go to attempt Annapurna from north side..

(16.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

THE EVEREST NORTH FACE TEAM SUCCESSFUL: SUMMIT ON AMA DABLAM
The Everest North Face expedition leader Viktor Kozlov just called in with the latest from Ama Dablam:

The third group (Yuri Koshelenko, Viktor Bobok and Alexey Bukinich) reached the summit of Ama Dablam at about 11.25am local time on March, 16th. The acclimatization process is completed now. Everybody is back in fine form. Tommorow we will be returning with caravan from Base Camp to Lukla and will then fly to Katmandu on March, 20.

(15.03.2004)
The project "Big Wall- Russian Way"- Panasonic- Jannu, North Face II

On March, 17 a press conference devoted to the eighth stage of the project "Big Wall- Russian Way"- Panasonic- Jannu, North Face will take place (peak Jannu (7710 m), East Himalayas).
This peak is also called Peak of Horror. Many teams of the best world's climbers have tried to subdue its northern face, but the North Face of Jannu, a Wall of XXI century still remains unclimbed. In the autumn of the last year the Russian climbers managed to reach the record altitude - 7200 meters. But the team led by Alexander Odintsov does not consider the doubtless record the victory they strove for.
Only completely laid "Russian" route can satisfy them.
They are sure, that such ascent becomes a symbol of the highest climbing skill, connection of brilliant techniques with hard work at the high altitudes. The sports structure of the team is amplified. The new call is thrown. 7710 meters of northern face of Jannu are waiting for the meeting with the team.
The long-awaited victory promises to become triumph. In press conference is going to take part:
Alexander Odintsov - the master of sports of the international class, the project "Big Wall- Russian Way" head;
Oleg Kapitanov - the president of Federation of mountaineering, rock-climbing and ice-climbing of Saint Petersburg.
Press conference will take place on March, 17 at 13.00 in the press centre of ITAR-TASS to the address: Sadovaya street, 38. Information and accreditation on phones 310-94-34, 312-18-76

(15.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

Viktor Kozlov just called in with a live voice dispatch: Today, at 13h30 local time, the second group (Petr Kuznetsov, Nikolay Chorniy, Vladimir Arhipov and Gleb Sokolov) has summited Ama Dablam.
The second group is en route to Base Camp. The 3d group is at 6200m now and will set out tommorow early morning to consider summit bid. In the morning we enjoyed sunny weather condition but in the afternoon there is high cirrus we got used to seeing

(14.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

Ama Dablam Summited!
Everest NF expedition leader Viktor Kozlov called in to report that today on 14h05 local time the first group (Pavel Shabalin, Ilyas Tukhvatullin, Andrey Mariev, Yury Ermachek and Nikolay Zhilin) successfully summited Ama Dablam. The second group is at 6200m. Today is mostly cloudy weather with fog. Things are progressing well, we are uderway and feeling great about that.

(12.03.2004)

Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin. Marathon: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days is started!
79 to climb left. Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin: Grand Paradis
Gran paradisoOn Thursday, March, 11, Patrick and Phillip summited the third "4-thousand" - Grand Paradis. They had to get up early, as to be exact at three o'clock in the morning, to catch a weather window. As weather forecasters promised it will hold on since about 9 a.m. up to 3 p.m. At about 4 a.m. Patrick and Phillip, accompanied with Eric Magnin and Marco Gaiani left their temporary shelter on Pont. Snow and a dense fog accompanied with them up to Victor Emmanuel's hut, and, at last, some clearing in the sky appeared. In three hundred meters up to the top, they had to take off skis and to put on crampons to ascend the ice pitch. Some heavy clouds, a temperate frost for the Ecrins (-15) and full calm joined the climbers. And by 11 a.m. the four successfully summited. While descending the weather and the condition of snow resolutely improved. At 3 p.m. the guys came back "home", to Pont.

http://www.glenatpresse.com
Photo courtesy of http://www.chamonixmountainguide.com

(11.03.2004)
Eugeny Krivosheitsev. News from Canmore, Canada. The Game M13!
On March, 8, at last I sent The Game M13. I hanged the last 7 quickdraws and on-sighted that nearly cost me falling! The last site is very complex: I had to move from under a cornice on water ice, and it was hard to search for deepenings on the rock crusted over with thin ice. It was impossible to hit, I could only try to grasp and move slowly upwards - not the most pleasant climbing, especially, when the most difficult roof crux has been already sent, and you don't know could you send it once again. It is the big question! Having climbed the ice, I felt easier, and there were ahead only 6-7 meters of roof crack traversing. And further there was the ice "curtain" with the last quickdraw of the route. As a whole, I sent it for 30 minutes. In the opinion of all world leaders of ice-climbing at the present stage, it is really the most complex route quite deserving 13 category.
After The Game I tried Musashi M12 (following the new currents and style in mix climbing I untwisted spurs off the boots. Having almost sent it I slid off the last move's edge because of Mauro Bubu who was belaying me and arguing all this time that it was not fair to remove the spurs but use the toes of boots clinging up the tools. But who has tried, that has felt a difference - using spurs you can have a rest everywhere, that makes any route too easy and stops progress in mixed climbing as any average climber can send such route using spurs, but to tell the truth, it will takes him 1-2 hours. In general, in disputes with Bubu I relaxed and fell off the last edge before the ice. Same day Mauro sent Musashi M12 once again, not putting spurs on tools, but only on the rock that appeared even easier, than using the tools for legs! I decided to try next day to send it clear: only being held up in rock by feet (not put legs on tools and, certainly, without spurs).
This day Bubu on-sighted Rocky Mountain Horror Show, M11 +.
On March, 9.
It was the Day successful for many climbers! Rodger Strong (USA) redpointed Rocky Mountain Horror Show M11 +, Inessa Papert (4th go) and Cris Cuibit (3rd go) sent Musashi M12! And I, as it is possible to tell, have opened the first page in a new style of climbing mixed routes - FA (first assent) - Musashi 12, without spurs and using the tools by legs, that complicated this route, at least, on 0,5 or one categories. I think, that the next season all difficult routes sent before will be sent in two ways - old and new. So, there is the aim to aspire and to train hard!
The new style of mixed climbing is supported by Sam Bughe, Stefan Housson, Harry Berger, Bubu Bole, Evgeni Kryvosheitsev, Izrael Blanko, Simon Antamaten, Will Gadd, Ben First and others :)
Now my mixed-ice-climbing season of 2004 comes to end. See you on rocks soon!

(10.03.2004)
Eugeny Krivosheitsev. Images. Sending The Rocky Mountain Horror Show, Cineplex

 

(9.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

Portfolio. Members of Everest NF Expedition.

 

(9.03.2004)
Canada. News from Ice-climbing Festival in Canmore. Eugeny Krivosheitsev reports:
The Festival was carried out in Canmore on March, 3-7. The program was rich: except for the competitions it was organized interesting slide-shows of some such known climbers as Harry Berger, Jack Tack (USA), Stefan Housson, Sam Bouger (France). The strongest world's ice-climbers during the festival had free courses of sending ice and mix routes. It was very interesting, as almost all elite of world ice-climbing gathered there (it's a pity that from the CIS only Ksenia Sdobnikova and I were there). The Competitions were planned to carry out in three stages, but due to the too warm weather had established for two weeks up to the festival, the organizers could not fill enough ice and decided to cancel speed starts.
Ines Papert
Harry Berger
Ksenia Sdobnikova

The rest two disciplines were bouldering and difficulty (freestyle). Freestyle is a new entertainment kind of ice-climbing, tested for the first time in Champagne (France) in January of this year. In freestyle is estimated in points not only complexity of sending the route, but also virtuosity, minimal using of adaptations for rest (spurs etc.). Each participant could choose for himself a complexity of the route, pass the edges, make jumps or, on the contrary, to climb on everything, losing a lot of points.


Results. Bouldering:
Men
1. Ben First
2. Harry Berger
3. Krivosheitsev Eugeny
Women
1. Ines Papert
2. Abby Watkins
3. Ksenia Sdobnikova


Difficulty. Freestyle.
Men
1. Krivosheitsev Eugeny
2. Simon Antamatten
3. Harry Berger
Women
1.Ines Papert
2.Ksenia Sdobnikova
3.Abby Watkins

The organizers committed a small mistake determining the absolute winners of the Festival, having decided first to count the results of men and women in the total offset. Unexpectedly on bouldering women sent the other routes and allocated the places among themselves, and on difficulty they sent the same routes, but in a little bit short variant (not climbing the roof). In the result, the mess turned out.

Absolute winners of Festival:
1 place Eugeny Krivosheitsev
1 place Harry Berger
1 place Ines Papert

(9.03.2004)

Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin. Marathon: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days is started!
The bad weather brings own corrections
The bad weather in the Alps has brought own corrections to Patrick Berhault's and Philippe Magnin's plan. A strong snowfall in area Pralognan (a fresh snow cover has reached more than 60cm for last 24 hours), bad visibility and the sky tightened by clouds at all have forced the climbers to take a small time-out. Yesterday our friends left their rucksacks on the pass and descended to Gliere valley to pass away the night in a small private hut Barmette (2010m) going and at dawn to take their trip forward in direction Val Isere - Esperons, if the weather allow (the backlog from the schedule makes 48 hours).

The tour in 82 days of the 82 4000m peaks:
1 - 3 March Ecrins (3 days)
4 - 7 March Raccord Ecrins/Gran Paradiso (4 days)
8 - 9 March Gran Paradiso (2 days)
10 - 13 March Raccord Grand Paradis/Monte Bianco (4 days)
14 - 23 March Mont Blanc (10 days)
24 - 26 March Raccord Monte Blanc/Valais (3 days)
27 March - 20 April Valais (25 days)
21 - 23 April Raccord Valais/Oberland (3 days)
24 April - 8 May Oberland (15 days)
9 - 18 May Raccord Oberland/Bernina (10 days)
19 - 21 May Bernina (3 days)
Total: 82 days

www.kairn.com

(5.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

Dear, friends!
Today is the third trekking day. We have made trekking Lukla - Namche-Bazaar.
It is still cold in the mountains. You cam feel signs of spring only up to Namche-Bazaar. Storm winds are raging in the capital Solo - Khumbu. The winds roaring take away tin-plates from the roofs of loggias and the dust hammers in eyes. Tomorrow we continue our travel to Pangboche. We are taking a lot of photos from the road. And the small photoreport of our plane trip to Lukla and trekking up to Namche is applied.
Your Expedition.
Portfolio

Gran paradiso(4.03.2004)

Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin. Marathon: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days
Having just descended from Ecrins Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin have already moved forward to the refuge du Thabor, in a direction to Grand Paradis (4061m).

They spent the last night in Casset visiting their old friend at Eric Loizeau, who took part in the Patrick's successful expedition to Everest last spring.

www.kairn.com
Photo courtesy of www.pardoes.com

(4.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

Victor Volodin on the approach to Ama-Dablam!

Victor Volodin - "The Father* on the approach to Ama-Dablam! I hope to reach the Northern face of Everest!"
* the Father - so all people who know Victor Volodin call him because he never refuse their humble requests.
The old folk

(4.03.2004)
Eugeny Krivosheitsev reports from Canmore, Canada:
All the elite of ice-climbers have arrived here and climbed to their utmost: Bubu, Anna Torreta, Stefan Housson, Simon Antamaten, Harry Berger, Kirsten Buhman, the Spaniard Israel, who sent recently two difficult routes in Europe: No Limit, 12+ and Vertical Limit, 12 (to tell the truth, it seems a big question about the category: 12 or 11. According the opinion of everyone, who tried it - 11). I sent 10, Cave Man, second go, I was close to on-sight, but broke the edge in one meter up to the top). Yesterday I sent Musashi, 12!
 Mauro Bubu sent it too. And Anna Torreta is rather successfully working on Musashi and she is close to send it.
All the climbers have rather big problems with The Game, 13 - a lot depends on length and form of tools, for example, one movement on the roof is so powerful, that if to climb with usual tools as mine Cassin (holes for fingers only added in it), it is practically impossible to move - my fingers are simply unbent on the tool! But all the same, I am not going to leave an attempt to send this route. Harry Berger sent without falls the most difficult site of The Game, but in the end (when he had 8 meters remained to climb) he not knowing precisely where The Games comes to the top turned on the other route. According to the ethical rules accepted among the climbers, the route cannot be considered sent as while sending it 1/3 part of the other route is involved.
In a couple of days the Festival starts, and for a while they will stop to climb mixed here, but after the ending the real traffic on approbation of the routes is expected! Wait for the fresh news in 5-6 days.

(4.03.2004)
La Sportiva Venom
Venom climbing shoes are the first to use the VibramSpiderWeb rubber mesh, from the point of the shoe to the tongue. Based on innovative physical and mechanical principles, VibramSpiderWeb is a fine rubber mesh made up of a multitude of interlaced filaments whose architecture and layout bring a spider web to mind.
This innovative solution creates new possibilities for the most demanding climbers, notably those who need to grip with the point and top of the shoe. With the VibramGrip sole, well known for its grip and resistance, the Venom shoe stands out with its asymmetrical, plunging shape and constitutes a well designed shoe with the guaranteed quality of the La Sportiva name.

Info: www.ynews.info

 

(3.03.2004)
Bad news from Adyl-su gorge: Jury Strelnikov (STREGOR, Kharkov, Ukraine), Nikolay Gorjunov (Kiev, Ukraine) and two their friends did not return to the control term, on February, 28. A helicopter flight all over the area gave nothing. There were not any traces found.

(3.03.2004)

Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin. Marathon: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days is started!
Yesterday 47-year old Patrick Berhault and 39-year old Philippe Magnin started realization of their brilliant idea - 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days. The Marathon began: Barre des Ecrins, 4103m and the Le Dome, 4015m have already summited.
Mt. Blanc In 2003 Patrick and Phillipe made 16 winter ascents on the most complex routes of Mont Blanc massif (Crystal FFME-2003). Patrick Berhault have remained for a long time for the "Soviet" public in a shadow of his partner - Patrick Edlindger. In 2000-2001 Berhault spent five months in the Alpes. Having started from Slovenia, he summited 22 mountains climbing via difficult rocky routes for 167 days.
He climbed 141683m heights in total, 22280m from them- wall climbing. In February 2001 Patrick finished in Menton (France). Doing that he tried to prove that you do not have to go to the Himalayas to take pleasure climbing in mountains.
The list of summits Patrick and Phillipe are going to summit

www.kairn.com

(2.03.2004)
Russian Mt. Everest Expedition, the North Face

Dear, friends!
Today it is our last day in Katmandu. Tomorrow we take off to Lukla and begin trekking to the foot of -Dablam. We arrived safely and bought here necessary food and equipment. There was a briefing in the Ministry of tourism of Nepal. We met the representatives of the Russian embassy.
All of the members of the expedition are in a good mood. We send to you a small exposition of photos about our start from Sheremetyevo airport, a night in a transit zone of the airport in Doha and also the first days in Katmandu.
Faithfully Yours, i.e. our Expedition.
Photo

(2.03.2004)
RATING of the Russian sportsmen on Ice Climbing, 2004

(2.03.2004)
VII Russian Ice Climbing Championship - 2004
Results. Photo

 

(2.03.2004)
Film festival "Vertical" will take place in new terms: on April, 16-18, 2004 in Dom Kino (House of Cinema)
In the program of VII film festival "Vertical": on April, 16th - the best films about extreme sports. On April, 17th the mountaineering day. The review of the best ascents of the Russian climbers of 2003. The best climbing films. Rewarding of winners in the amateur nomination. On April, 18th - the best adventure films, ceremony of rewarding of winners of the festival, showing films - winners. Since March, 10 all the persons interested can get the tickets to the Festival in all theatrical cash departments of Moscow, and also in climbing shops, on the Internet, in the Olympic committee of Russia at office of Mountain Film-academy and the International Mountaineering club.

(27.02.2004)
Dai Koyamada has solved the problem Byaku-dou in Hourai (Japan) and estimated it as 8C
During the same time John Gaskins has sent " Il Pirata " in Trowbarrow (Great Britain) and also announced the new bouldering problem of 8.

www.desnivel.es

 

 

(26.02.2004)
Eugeny Krivosheitsev reports from Canada, Canmore:
" I've successfully done Rocky Mountain Horror Show, 11 +, second go. It is a very difficult route via a 20-meter roof. Harry Berger and Kirsten Buhman are climbing here too. Harry tries a new route 13. Only Ben Firthst from Canada having worked on it a lot has sent it. It looks terrible: the roof of 22-25 meters, all moves are very long, and in the beginning of the route you have to simply fantastic jump from under a 2,5-meter cornice on its edge where you have to have time to be hooked. Harry has tried already 8 times but while without any result, all time he falls after his jump. I am planning to try it too. "

(26.02.2004)
Kirovsk Search and rescue division
Kirovsk Search and rescue division (Murmansk region) attached to the
Northwest regional group
The address: Murmansk region, Kirovsk, street of the Soviet Constitution, 3.
Ph. (81531) 58895, 58689. E-mail: rescue@com.mels.ru
The round-the-clock operative attendant - ph. (81531) 58895,
From 8.00 till 17.00 a professional rescuer is on duty and you can be
supplied the free consultation about the avalanche danger, the closed areas
and Khibiny Mountains.
Total numbers of group - 24 persons.
Where to be registered to tourist groups?
- Kirovsk, street of the Soviet Constitution, 3
- Kuelpor (in the center of Khibiny Mountains)

The recommended order of registration of tourist groups:
1. It is possible to be registered:
- in writing on e-mail - rescue@com.mels.ru ;
- Speaking by phone (8153158895);
- Personally in Kirovsk or Kuelpor.
2. The form of registration of tourist and amateur groups:
2.1. The address:
I.e. where is a group from, domestic contact phones, mobile phones of
tourists (In Khibiny Mountains at the altitude higher than 700 meters signals of the
mobile phones of MTS, Megaphone are received.)
2.2. The head of a group:
2.3. Amount of the participants:
2.4. A line of a route:
2.5. Terms of travel:
2.6. Control term (it is usual day, two).
2.7. Number of the tourist group, the letting out organization
Post Kuelpor (in the center of Khibiny Mountains). Round the clock 2 professional rescuers are on duty. Radio and trang
communication is constantly supported. Changing of the rescuers is every Wednesday.
There is a warmed habitation up to 50 person. All the huts are with stoves, plank-beds, and bath.

The information was given by Valentine Zhiganov, www.kirovsk.mels.ru

(25.02.2004)
Patrick Berhault's new project: 82 "4-thousand" mountains in the Alps for 82 days
Patrick Berhault in the company with Philippe Magnin start the Marathon of the distance - 82 summits higher than 4000m in the Alps for 82 days- in the beginning of March.

www.kairn.com

(25.02.2004)
" No Limit ", M13
Israel Blanco has made the second ascent of the route of Robert Jasper " No Limit ", appreciated the pioneer as the first line with category 12 +/13. Recently Israel has climbed " Mission Impossible ", M11.

http://desnivel.com

 

(25.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
We have just received a message from the base camp.
25.02.04.13-00.
Hurray! Nikolay Zaharov has just called from the base camp. Yesterday in the late evening the team safely descended from the Wall. We congratulate the guys on the brilliant ascent! There appeared a new strong route on Ak-Su, the new winter line on Ak-Su has been done!
Nikolay Zaharov reports: Here they are sitting down to the table in the tent. They have got tired, certainly, but all of them are healthy. Tomorrow we are descending to Uz -Gurush. There we take a vehicle, which pick us up and get to Bishkek. We will call you from the road.

Photo: P. Shabalin(24.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
Nikolay Zaharov informs:
"Today about 12 o'clock in the afternoon the team successfully summited Ak-Su with its full complement. The new route of 36 pitches - is climbed!
Our hopes for improvement of the weather have not come true. There was a strong snowfall during all last days. A shaft of light appeared only today. Probably, the mountain is tired to struggle. The guys are spending the night on the 25-th pitch. Tomorrow they are going to descend via the ascent route. All of them are healthy and send greetings to their native, friends and fans. "

(23.02.2004)
Winter ascent on West Shkhara, 6B
The combined team of Dagestan and Saratov come back to the mountaineering camp "Bezengi". The winter ascent on West Shkhara was not a success.
But the main thing is that all the guys are safe and sound.

 

 

Photo: P. Shabalin(20.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
On February 19, 2004.
Nikolay Zaharov informs:
"A week of the bad weather seems to come to the end. Today for the first time the stars appeared in the night sky. It gives us the hope for improvement. The temperature is -20C.
We have made 29 pitches, and now we are fixing the rope on a summit tower. We are not planning to climb via known routes and the route will be completely new. The portaledges are hanging on 25-th pitch.
All the team is in a good mood. Our greetings to all friends! "

 

 

(20.02.2004)
News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Moscow Adventure Team of Alpindustria under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"The last news from Aconcagua
On the 17th of February the member of our team Vladimir Mozhaev ascended the summit alone because he did not climbed it with the team. While we were buying the souvenirs and drinking the best vine in Mendoza Volodja ascended the summit Aconcagua from the camp Berlin. At the summit he met the climber who spoke bad English. On the question "What country are you from?" Vladimir answered: "Don't put on airs speak Russian". It was Max Bogatirev from Maikop. On the 18th February Volodja descended the Base Camp and at the same day with his wife they arrived in Mendoza.
The 19th February is our flight to Buenos Aires on the 21st we will be in Moscow in the evening. Probably we will have time to take part in the Russian iceclimbing cup competition at the Highland. "

Photo: A. Ruchkin(17.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt

On February 16, 2004.
Nikolay Zaharov informs:
"The bad weather is still holding. Strong snowfalls brake our ascent. We are able to make only a pitch a day. Totally about 1000 m of the Wall have been climbed (24 pitches). Portaledges are removed on 20-th pitch. The team is in a vigorous mood. We send greetings to all friends. "

 

 

(16.02.2004)
News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Moscow Adventure Team of Alpindustria under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"13, February.
The night of 13th justified its number. Today is the stormy wind and snowstorm. The morning is terrible. Two tents were tore to pieces. The urgent evacuation was needed snow-covered climbers. Yesterday three climbers from Ukraine conquered the summit their ascension lasted from 3.30 to 19.00. This ascension inspires us. There were some Americans but they spent twenty hours to climb the summit. We left the camp 5600 at 14.00 with heavy rucksacks. The stormy wind was blowing. In three hours and a half we reached the camp Berlin 5900m. The camp is perfect the woody houses installed here but for our big group there was no place. So we went further to the camp which name is sounds like Russian word "Cholera". The place for tents was found. The wind dropped a little bit. Tomorrow is the Ascension Day. We divided into two groups for ten persons. The first group will be "Tortoises" and the second "Elks". We are all feel healthy and gung-ho. At the summit we take with us two portable radio transmitters and satellite phone. The gear was given to us by the school Senkevich "Extreme and Adventure Tourism". Good Bye."
14, February.
17 persons from our team conquered the summit Aconcagua today. It is proved that Aconcagua is severe mountain. We left the camp for ascension into two groups at 7 o'clock in the morning and then at 8 o'clock. It was terribly cold and the wish not to ascent occurred but most of us moved up. Konstantin Avdonin, Gujabidze Bidzina, Mushkudiani Levan and Vladimir Pushkarev were the first who ascended the summit at 14.30. The second group consisted of Korobeshko Liudmila, Vyalenkova Iryna, Ulph Robert, Selivanov Andrey, Pashkov Viatcheslav, Maiseyenka Valery, Filippov Mikhail, Nourgaliev Pavel, Markov Serguei, Kuzin Dmitry, Smirnov Anatoly, Karapetyan Artur and Abramov Alexander. Mikhail Filippov and Alexander Abramov accompanied Irina Vyalenkova to the camp 5950. We descended only at 23 o'clock. We congratulate all our friends and fans of Russian Adventure Team of Alpindustria with regular victory!!!"



Dmitry Sharafutdinov
(16.02.2004)
Russian Climbing Championship. Ekaterinburg. Bouldering. Speed.
Bouldering.
Yuh! Well, there will come "the young hooligans, that will wipe us off the face of the Earth"(c). No world of the song can be dropped. The champion of Russia in bouldering becomes young (a citizen of Korkino in past and nowadays a citizen of Ekaterinburg) Dmitry Sharafutdinov. He is 17, and he is engaged in rock-climbing since he was six years old. He started training in a small climbing gym in Korkino (Chelyabinsk area), under the direction of Sergey Ivanovich Sigov, and now he is a member of the combined team of Sverdlovsk area and a student of USTU-UPU. He trains together with his older brother Denis in Ekaterinburg. It would be desirable to trust, that it is our Russian "overdue answer to Mr.Chemberlen". That means to all foreign starry guys: Chabot-Uzobiaga-Ramon-Mrazek.

Abramchuk Julia

Results. Bouldering.

Men
1. Sharafutdinov Dmitry (Ekaterinburg)
2. Subbotin Jacov (Ekaterinburg)
3. Ovchinnikov Eugeny (Krasnoyarsk)
Women
1. Abramchuk Julia St.Petersburg)
2. Yakovleva Olga (Tolyatti)
3. Malamid Eugenya (Voronezh)

Speed. Results of finalists.

Men
1 Voitsekhovsky Eugeny (Bashkortostan)
2 Astashov Igor (Sverdlovsk region)
3 Sharafutdinov Dmitry (Sverdlovskaja region)
4 Subbotin Jacov (Sverdlovskaja region)
5 Shaulsky Alexander (Krasnojarsk)
6 Omelchenko Denis (Krasnojarsk)
7 Kosterin Alexander (Sverdlovsk region)
8 Sinitsyn Sergey (Sverdlovsk region)
Women
1 Yevstigneeva Olga (Krasnojarsk)
2 Saulevich Anna (Sverdlovsk region)
3 Alekseeva Ksenia (Cheljabinsk)
4 Podgorbunskikh Zosya (Sverdlovsk region)
5 Oschepkova Olga (Krasnojarsk)
6 Tarasova Tatyana (Samara region)
7 Galljamova Anna (Sverdlovsk region)
8 Titova Natalia (Chelyabinsk region)

Multiathlon

Men
1. Sharafutddinov Dmitry (Ekaterinburg)
2. Rakhmetov Salavat (Ufa)
3. Minachev Eugeny (Tyumen)
Women
1. Alekseeva Ksenia (Chelyabinsk)
2. Saulevich Anna (Ekaterinburg)
3. Tarasova Tatyana (Samara)

(16.02.2004)
Winter ascent on West Shkhara, 6B
The combined team of Dagestan and Saratov is staying in the base camp waiting for the suitable weather. They have climbed only 15 pitches yet as there have been a lot of snow lately and the amount of avalanche collapses increased.

 

 

(13.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
Photo: A. Ruchkin 13, 2004.
Nikolay Zaharov informs:
"Finally we took off on 11-th of February. The portaledges are settled on the 14-th pitch. In total we have made 21 pitches.
Today we don't work, staing on the portaledges because of a very heavy snowfall. Everything is normal with us. Our greetings to all friends. "

 

 

 



Ovchinnikov Eugeny

Kaurov Ivan
(13.02.2004)

Bibik Olga

Yakovleva Olga

Jaemurd Ekaterina

Russian Climbing Championship. Ekaterinburg. Difficulty.
Yesterday in Ekaterinburg Olga Bibik and Eugeny Ovchinnikov (Krasnoyarsk) became new Champions of Russia in rock-climbing on difficulty.
Alexander Kovalevsky from Kaliningrad was the second from men, 16-years old Ivan Kaurov (St.Petersburg) - the third.
At girls Olga Jakovleva from Tolyatti was the second, Ekaterina Jaemurd (St.Petersburg) - the third.

RESULTS OF FINALISTS
Men.
1. Ovchinnikov Eugeny Krasnojarsk area 71
2. Kovalevsky Alexander Kaliningrad region 83
3. Kaurov Ivan Saint-Petersburg 87
4. Teplyh Michael Krasnojarsk area 86
5. Khakimjanov Ilfir Bashkortostan (the team of the Air Forces) 76
6. Bashkirtsev Eugeny Irkutsk region 76
7. Dulub Jury Kaliningrad region 77
8. Sharafutdinov Dmitry Sverdlovsk region 86

Women.
1. Bibik Olga Krasnojarsk area 76
2. Yakovleva Olga Samara region (TsSKA of the Air Forces) 83
3. Jaemurd Ekaterina Saint-Petersburg 83
4. Alekseeva Xenia Cheljabinsk region 87
5. Novikova Natalia Saint-Petersburg 77
6. Malamid Eugenya Voronezh region 87
7. Saulevich Anna Sverdlovsk region 84
8. Yurina Valentina Sverdlovsk region 85

 

(13.02.2004)
News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Moscow Adventure Team of Alpindustria under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"12, February.
All the day the strong and freezing wind has been blowing from southwest that means from Antarctica. Most of the climbers have to descend to the base camp and another few who tried to make an attempt to conquer the summit were thrown away by the squally icy wind. We have hoped at random and left the base camp. The snow-covered camp Nido de Condores 5600m was reached by 4 o'clock. Ira Vjalenkova climbed the camp one hour late she was the last one. The wind has carried away the tents so our tomorrow-planned ascension to the camp 5950m is questionable. The day after tomorrow should be the storm of the summit. God, calm down the wind, give us chance! Good Bye."

(12.02.2004)
News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Moscow Adventure Team of Alpindustria under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"10, February.
The weather has been spoiled. Practically all the members of our team spent the night badly. The heads were ready to burst and there was the shortage of oxygen. Some persons of last Everest expedition felt good and were woken up by the groans of others at night. In the morning at 9 o'clock we crept from the tents to have tea and even tried to do morning exercises. In half an hour the sun appeared but it did not warm us only the thought about the base camp made us happy. We left the tents with some things packed the rucksacks, which became easier and ran down to the base camp 4300m. We met Irina Vljalenkova and another groups they intended to ascent the summit within the next two days. Irina had spent already two days at the camp 5600m so she wanted with us to ascent the summit the day after tomorrow. When we came down to the base camp everyone was eager to call home by the satellite phone that was given to us by the school Senkevich "Extreme and Adventure Tourism". In one hour hail began to fall and then snow. I suppose we are luckier than the people at the camps higher. The vodka was taken out and we drank for the good weather and even Robert Ulph agreed that vodka was good for acclimatization. The weather is going to be good. Tomorrow is a rest day.
11, February.
Probably the weather will be bad for a long time. The morning began with the digging out the tents from under the snow. Through all the night it was thundering and lightning. During the day the sun looked out sometimes and illuminated the west wall of the Aconcagua. Before the afternoon we walked to the hotel where we drank coffee and played ping-pong. On the way back the snowstorm caught us but we were not depressed and laughed as more as usually. Pasha Nurgaliev wrote a poem about our adventures but it turned out to be a little bit sad. Maybe the reason is that he lost Lena Ivanova 10kg of load and he would have to carry her 10kg to the camp 5600m. Tomorrow the hard passage will be from the base camp 4300m to the 5600m. If it will be possible we try to reach the camp 5900m the day after tomorrow.
Good Bye."

(12.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
The team of Ekaterinburg comes back.
Photo: P. ShabalinOn February 12, 2004.
At last we received news from Sergey Kofanov:
"... We are in normal state: now we are in Osh and today we are leaving to Bishkek. While briefly: for the fifth day of work on the wall I and Evgeniy agreed, that he was working till a dinner and then - I. Accordingly, I did not wrap up in the morning as the good weather allowed. But after a dinner the weather deteriorated - it began snowing and soon a continuous stream of snow began to flow down the wall. Evgeniy was hanging somewhere above. While I was belaying I became overcooled very much. In the evening on the portaledge I was started to beat a fever and then I got nasty cough and temperature appeared at night. In the morning having listened on a portable radio set my symptoms the doctor of Krasnoyarsk's team made a diagnosis - pneumonia. And that's all there is to it, we are descending without any conversations.
For those 4 days of a bad weather, that we were spending at the base camp of Krasnoyarsk's team Alexander Kuharev put to me so much injections, I have never got probably for all life. Now I feel quite normally. The guys say greetings to everybody. We will roughly leave Bishkek on Saturday. "

 

(12.02.2004)
Ines Papert and Her "Vertical Limits"
German climber Ines Papert made the first female ascent of "Vertical Limits" (Kandesteg, Suisse), M12, proved again to be the strongest world ice-woman.

 

 

(12.02.2004)
Winner The Ice-extreme boulder Eugeniy Krivosheytsev and Kirsten Buchmann.

Results

Man
1 Evgenyy Kryvosheytsev UKR
2 Harald "Harry" Berger AUT
3 Jack Muller SUI
4 Marcus Pucher AUT
5 Klemen Premrl SLO
6 Odermatt Urs SUI
7 Primoz Hostnik SLO
8 Rudy Purat AUT
9 Vili Gucek SLO
10 Roman Tschurtschenthaler ITA
10 Anze Marence SLO
12 Erik Svab SLO
13 Pavle Kozjek SLO
14 Janko Opresnik - Zumba
15 Peter Jeromel SLO
16 Lovro Vrsnik SLO
Women
1 Kirsten Buchmann GER
2 Ksenia Sdobnikova RUS
3 Tanja Grmovsek SLO
4 Claudia Colussi ITA
5 Alenka Lukic SLO
6 Urska Bacovnik SLO
7 Tanya Nilova UKR

http://www.planetmountain.com

(11.02.2004)
News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Moscow Adventure Team of Alpindustria under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"
9, February. It is rather difficult to write the diary the pen is frozen all the time. We are in the camp Nido de Condores at the altitude 5600m. In the morning we woke up at 4800m and all the members felt good after night at such altitude. After breakfast we gathered the camp and at about 11 o'clock our team climbed up unhurriedly. It was more difficult to go up then yesterday. At two o'clock we were at the camp 5600m and blood was hammering in the temples. The view is fabulous and already the sixthousenders are seen from here.
The camp is installed near the lake. The weather is good for the time present. When the tents were set up we decided to have a rest. The guys from Ukraine visited our camp. They followed the same route but with advance in one day. It turned out to be that they are keeping up our project seven summits and eager to join us in the spring to ascend the Mackinley. We agreed to meet at the base camp. In the evening we had dinner and made photos with flags. The sunset is picturesque here so we decided to make the photos during the sunset. Good Bye."

(11.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
10.02.04
Nikolay Zaharov informs:
"All last days the bad weather interfered with work. There was a frost, a wind. We had to have a day of rest: all the guys descended to the base camp. Today the weather is a little improved, so we have fixed three ropes for the present day. (The total amount is 16 ropes). Tomorrow we are taking off. Greetings to everybody! "

(10.02.2004)
Valery Shamalo reports from Patagonia: We have climbed on Fitzroy via the Californian way.
This is the hardest ascent we are going to end off our expedition with. While descending we caught the cold spending the night. On the last rappelling pitch the point uprooted, but we were held on a snow. I scratched my hands and now Ii would too be difficult to climb further.
Cerro Torre's is in the bad condition as for 2 months there was an awful weather there.
We summited on February, 4. Having left from BC on 2-nd, we returned in 6-th afternoon. The greatest difficulties were on the ridge (snow, water ice).
Greetings to everybody!!!
(9.02.2004)
International climbing competitions Baltic Open will take place in Riga on 29-30 of May 2004. We are glad to invite You and the members of your club to the Climbing competitions Baltic Open 2004, that will be held on 29-30.05. in Riga, capital of Latvija. The competitions are held for the fourth time outdoors on specially built climbing wall (12 meters high, 9 meters wide, overhanging 3-6 meters.) and will include speed and difficulty events.
Photos and results from previous years can be found on our web site climbing.apollo.lv.
Previously competitions were entered by participants from Latvia, Estonia, Lithuania, Russia and Finland - so You are very welcome to join us for two days by the end of may and we hope to have a good time together. If you have any question don' t hesitate to ask. All relative information can be find in competition regulations in attached file.
Hope to see you in Riga,
For more information http://climbing.apollo.lv
Normunds Reinbergs email:nr@latnet.lv, phone. 371 9403822
Regulation
(9.02.2004)
News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Moscow Adventure Team of Alpindustria under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"5, February.
The weather is perfect. The half of our team has got sunburn of yesterday trip. Every morning begins with the toilet key searching because all the camps have their own toilets, which are locked. When all the difficulties were behind we went for acclimatization.
After free hours of our journey the majestic view of the steep walls crossed by ice corridors was in front of us. We found the route that had been made by Tomas Humar and decided to return next year and change the route. In the evening we sang the song Katusha for our Argentine guys and taught them to pronounce the word Vladivostok.
We became real friends and they offered us two bottles of champagne but we refused. Tomorrow the hard passage will be from the base camp "Confluencia"3400m to the camp "Plaza de Mulas" 4300m. All the members of our team feel good.
6, February.
In the morning we were woken up by the noise of the helicopter. It was rangers they brought the bridge and tried to throw it across the river. In one hour they were successful. Our group was the first who tested the bridge. We supposed the day would be difficult but it turned out to be the harder. At 9 o'clock in the morning we packed the rucksacks and left the camp Confluencia. At first the way led uphill. When we appeared on the flat place. The river we were compelled to wade in some places. It was the fist hours of our way. We came up to the good refuge. From this place the sudden ascent begins it took all our strength. In the evening all our team was very tired and hungry. So we decided to have a rest day tomorrow.
7, February.
We are resting today but nobody prefers to stay in the tents. The part of our team went to the nearest hotel. It took 20 minutes up the vertical to get the mountain hotel. You can drink bear, snack and phone there. After phone calls we knew about the terrorist act in the Moscow underground. It is frightful and strange. Our team consists of nineteen persons, there are two Georgian, one Armenian, one Englishman, Byelorussians and Russians and all the persons live friendly together. In the morning we speak Russian, in the afternoon English, Spanish and in the evening we sing Georgian songs. Tomorrow we are going to reach the camp 4800m install the camp and spend the night there, next day it will be the camp 5600m then we descend to the base camp to have a rest. For many members in our team the night at the altitude 5600m will be for the first time. Besides the weather becomes worse. The ascension at the Aconcagua for Artur Karapetyan and Robert Ulph will be like a test as they join the Everest expedition in the spring. We hope they will pass the test.
Good Bye"

(9.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
7.02.04
Nikolay Zaharov informs:
"Greetings to everybody! The team of Sverdlovsk descended from the 20-th pitch because of Sergey Kofanov's illness. Now they are in the base camp, Sergey is under observation of doctor Kuharev. The doctor says: "There is nothing dangerous."
The Krasnoyarsk team has passed the bottom crux - a mirror (smooth plates). For two days they have fixed 1,5 ropes, and settled the portaledge. Now they are working from the portaledge and planning to take off in 2-3 days. The weather is bad; there is a strong wind. "

(6.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
05.02.04.
Anton Pugovkin informs:
" The team from Ekaterinburg climbed Snuffle (ice) and left on Ruchkins route and then on Popovs routes. They have already climbed "Cross". Now their portaledge is settled in the area of the Cross. They are fixing the rope in one pitch above it.
The Krasnoyarians began fixing the rope on 3-rd of February. For three days they have made 11 pitches. (Today Tsyganov - Malygin made 4 pitches). The route corresponds to the line on the photo - first ascent route to the left from Popov's route. The route is in a good condition, there is no ice there. The weather held good for three days, but today after a dinner it began snowing. It hampers fixing the route. The working two-men team descends to spend the night to the cave dug under the Wall.
Tomorrow two-men team Pugovkin-Cherezov is going to climb and set the portaledge in the zone of 10th pitch. Working two-men team Dmitrienko-Litvinov will descend to spend the night to the already settled portaledge.
Greetings to all our friends, natives, fans."

Henrike Shvank(6.02.2004)
On January, 24 the competitions on the rock-climbing, devoted to Day of the Student took place in the artificial climbing gym of Pyatigorsk State Linguistic University (PSLU).
The main judge of Championship PSLU on sports rock-climbing, the assistant to faculty of physical training Natalia Kubrakova informs: Originally we planned to carry out a "small party", but because of the fact that trainees and students of PSLU from other countries are also engaged in section of rock-climbing, it appeared international competitions in which representatives of Poland, Germany, Japan, South Korea and, certainly, Russia took part.

Julia ZadoenkoThe winner of Championship PSLU became Julia Zadoenko, who climbed the final problem almost up to the end (not clipped the finishing quickdraw). Ekaterina Eremenko was the second among women. She showed confident and technical climbing. Henrike Shvank (Germany) was the third. She was not engaged in rock-climbing before arrival to Pyatigorsk, but she has regularly visited our trainings since October of the last year.

Alexey Mesnjankin was the best climber among men. In these competitions he executed the third sports category on rock-climbing. With a difference in one bouldering Yaghoube Gonshenitsa-Roy (Poland) was the second and Manabu Kawada (Japan) took the third place.

 

Artificial ice climbing gym in Izhevsk(6.02.2004)
On January, 31 - February, 1 Championship of Udmurtiya on ice climbing took place in Izhevsk.
DifficultyCompetitions were carried out on disciplines: difficulty and speed. Organizers: Federation of mountaineering and ice climbing of Udmurtiya, the Union of tourists of Udmurtiya, the State Committee UR on physical culture and sports.
In competitions took part 19 sportsmen, among them the unique woman - Permjakova Irina.

Winners and prize-winners have received prizes - the medals given by sponsors of competitions, and also monetary compensations. The winner in speed and difficulty became a climber from the city of Perm - Oshvintsev Pavel who has established a record on the route for the speed for all history of the artificial ice climbing tower.

By the results of competitions sportsmen are revealed for participation in the Championship of Russia in Kirov.

Titanic medalsThe complete set female medals will be played on the championship of Izhevsk on March, 6-7.

The organization committee thanks sponsors: industrial group MTI, shop TOURIST, shops EDELVEJS and Alpina, Firm LEOPARD, firm URALENERGODIAGNOSTIKA and Sedunov Konstantin personally, for the rendered help in leading of the Championship.

 

 

 

(6.02.2004)
News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Moscow Adventure Team of Alpindustria under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"4, February.
The day was successful. We left the resort Penitence and in twenty minutes we were at the entry of national park Puenta del Inca. The path to the base camp begins from here. Suddenly a helicopter appeared from behind the hill and the man came out in a powder-puff and plastic boots with frostbitten hands. It seems to be that not everything is good at the mountain. We went up on the good path for three hours.
There are steep rocky walls around us and the huge snow-white wall Aconcagua locks the mountain gorge. And now we are in the base camp Confluencia 3400m. The name is translated like Headache. It is the fist camp and it seems to be that from this place the problems with mountain illness begins. But the second meaning is likely to be "The junction of two rivers". The rivers here are rough and dark-brown. The familiar man came to us and began to speak in Russian with us. It was famous American guide Tom. Every year he came with groups of people to ascend the Elbrus. Unfortun! ately the day was cold and windy and they could not ascend the Aconcagua. In the base camp we were lodged in the big hemisphere tent its diameter is eight meters. The tents are perfect and the food is perfect. Our Argentina guys are very friendly. Let's see what will be further.
Good Bye."
(4.02.2004)
News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Moscow Adventure Team of Alpindustria under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"1, February.
After 14 hours of flight without landing for sometime there is not also neck but also coccygeal pain. Here is Argentina!!! Summer!!! Buenos Aires is the beautiful, green city with wide avenues and narrow streets built-up with houses of 19-21st centuries. There is a restaurant on the sea front, which is titled "Catch up the cow".
You can take one liter of wine and meat as much as you are able to eat. After two hours of such meal we had to send for a stretcher and the city seemed to be more sparkling. As if you know what a pleasure this city! In the street we met a lot of Russians and Ukrainians even the dancer of tango turned out to be Russian. Can you guess who plays thimbles in the street? It's Chechens.
2, February.
At 6.30 a.m. we flight out towards Mendoza. But in Moscow of course time is 12.30 a.m.. The guide Heber Orona met our team. He ascended the Everest in 1999 year and two years ago climbed Elbrus. Argentina guides are strong and we will be guided by August Ortega. He ascended the Everest twice and Aconcagua 73 times.
Mendoza is fulled with verdure. Such words as climbing, rafting and trekking are understood without translation. We have bought the permits of the ascension at the mountain. It is cost 200$ for one person. Every member of our team had to visit the national government park personally for receiving the permit. So it was to late to step back!!!
3, February.
After endless flights and journeys we took advantage of the opportunity to sleep till 9 o'clock. In the morning we were woken up by strange noise. The street cleaners were sweeping the streets with help of palm twigs.
It took us six hours to get from Mendoza to mountaineering resort Penitence with a stop for a dinner consisted of a big piece of fish and a bottle of red wine per one man. The reality of life destroys the dream to loose the weight. I would like to say some words about the prices here. In 1996 when I was at the Aconcagua one peso amounted to one dollar and the prices were extremely high for us but after the crisis in 2000 year the peso fell down and now amounts to 3 dollars so the prices the same as we have in Russia. The way is leading through the mountain gorge and near there is a longstanding narrow-gauge railway, in some places streams washed out the embankment and railings are in the air. Along this way you can reach the border with Chili and to Santiago it is no distance.
Penitence is a mountaineering resort its altitude is 27000 m high. We have organized the acclimatization and climbed at the altitude of 3000m. All the members of our team feel good. The mules will come tomorrow and we moved further.
Good Bye. Follow the news!!!""
(4.02.2004)
Winter ascent on West Shkhara, 6B
A.Anaev informs:
Till January, 27-th the team leaded by of Andrey Grigorov and supported by a group Shanavaz Shanavazov was engaged in lifting a cargo under the route on Western Shkhara.
Since January, 27-th the team leaded by Konstantin Dorro started to climb via Razumov's route, 6B-graded. For three days the climbers had not to climb further because of the bad weather conditions (a strong frost and often avalanche collapses).
On February 3-th the weather became settled and on 4-th the guys are going to continue climbing further via the planned route. For today it has been fixed 15 ropes, the advanced group has reached the top rocky zone.
(2.02.2004)
News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Moscow Adventure Team of Alpindustria under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"1, February.
What a pleasure to fly out from cold and snow-covered Moscow and appeared in warm Barcelona! We are all delighted with palms and fifteen degrees above zero. Spaniards drove us to the intransitive zone where we should waste our time waiting for the flight towards Buenos Aires without entrainments for nine hours watching through the windows the palms and the sea. Our team of Adventure with the cry "Boarding" seeped through the boundary sentry boxes. Freedom!!! We enjoyed for four hours with the seashore, seagulls, the local food, drinks and took part in the demonstration. When we returned at the airport the frontier guards were so surprised that passed us without visas. At first time I was on such big plane "The Boeing". There are 70 rows for ten seats. Who said that Russia is on the first place of aircraft construction? Good Bye."
Follow the news!!!
(2.02.2004)
Peak Lenin Winter Expedition
31.01.04
The team climbed up to 6000 m via Arkin's route and stopped to spend the night.
01.02.04
The guys made summit push. While descending Daniyar Mynzhysarov lost and vain attempts to find him did not give any results at night.
02.02.04
Searching raid was started at the altitude of 6500m. The helicopter with group of rescuers is planed to start at 11-00 to the area of searches.
02.02.04
At 11-00 at the altitude of 6200 m the body of Daniyar Mynzhysarov with a craniocereberal trauma was found. The group has started to descend with the dead climber. A helicopter from Almaty flew off at 12.45.

(2.02.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
The guys have finally forced their way to the mountains.
2.02.04.
Nikolay Zaharov's message from 1.02.04:
"After several unsuccessful attempts to fly off a helicopter could do it and we managed to get to the terminus. The base camp was installed and today we are going to do a probing gangway under the wall. All of us are healthy. The team of Ekaterinburg is already under the wall in the beginning of the route. They were delivered directly up under the wall, where their equipment was stored."

(31.01.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
30.01.04.
The message from Nikolay Zaharov.
"Our greetings to everybody! On January 28 the rain poured down in bucketfuls. Once again we made the next unsuccessful attempt to take off but flied not for a long time. Bad visibility did not allow to fly downhill. We spent the night again in Osh. To be in good form we climbed mountain Sulejmanka.
Yesterday all was filled up with a snow, and today there is a continuous fog. We can not take off again.
N.Zaharov and the company. "

 

 

 

(30.01.2004)
Peak Lenin Winter Expedition
29.01.04.
The group spent the night at 4400 m on Lipkin's route.
The team divided into two tents 1) D. Urubko, Krynin A. , D. Gubarev, 2) N. Chervonenko, Mynzhysarov D. , Samoilov A. Three guys Klunniy I., Mynzhysarov K., Tortladze G are staying on radio communication. The communication with the main group is steady.
The weather seems to improve. The top part of the route looks not snow-covered and ice sparkles. Temperature is 30.
The further work is under the plan.
(29.01.2004)
Peak Lenin Winter Expedition
28.01.04.
N.Chervonenko caught up the main group. They spent the night at 3900 m. Two climbers K. Mynzhysarov and G. Tortladze are lagging behind through they have got a cold. Further the group is going to work under the plan.

(29.01.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
January, 29 2004. Jury Glazyrin informs:
" Our greetings to everybody from commands of Krasnoyarsk and Ekaterinburg! The both teams have been sitting in Osh for four days every day trying to fly off to the mountains. Because of the bad weather (a fog, it was raining yesterday, but today it is already snowing) a dispatcher from Osh has not authorized for the commencement of flight. Continually we supervise atmospheric pressure on GPS, and find it growing all the time. But it is poorly similar to the truth. We have to stay in Osh (first- in a house at one Kirghiz and now in hotel). The part of people in shifts sleeps in the helicopter. It stands outskirts of the town. From Krasnoyarsk to Bishkek we flu perfectly. They met and delivered us, as it was a custom. Next day we went a camp parking Ratseka in Ala-Archa, 3200m, for acclimatization. Having spent the night we descended to Bishkek in the afternoon.
Next day at 11 a.m. we tried to fly to the mountains but there was a fog again and we had to land in the same valley in Talas. The distance was about 200 kilometers though we flied it one hour - twenty. We spent in Talas a pair of hours visiting a restaurant and a market and continued our helicopter excursion across Kirghizia.
The following stop was in Osh (1,5 hours of flight more). Having sat a little, we understood that the weather was not going to improve and our fast helicopter transfer was dragged.
29.01.04, today, since the morning it is snowing again and we sure will not depart anywhere. "

www.stolby.ru

(28.01.2004)
Peak Lenin Winter Expedition
On January, 27 at 20:10 Denis Urubko called and informed the following:
"On January 27 the group ascended Puteshestvennikov (Travellers) pass where they stopped on spending the night. Because of avalanche danger of the slopes they refused to descend via the planned traverse. On January 28 they are descending in a direction of falling of water on a glacier.
N.Chervonenko and G. Tortladze stayed below in connection with suspicion on cold and will catch up with group on January 28 on the paved track. "

(27.01.2004)
Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
The combined team on mountaineering from Krasnoyarsk region is taking part in the Championship of Russia on mountaineering in a class of technical ascents and going to pave the own Krasnoyarsk route on Mt. Aksu, North Face, Pamiro-Alai mountain range, as it has already become a tradition.
"Krasnoyarsk" route has been opened on Trolls Wall, where the absolute altitude 1750 m, the difference-1100 m, an average steepness - 82 . But Aksu North face is more difficult: 5350, 1500, 76 accordingly.
And the weather conditions are more severe. The new route is supposed to be laid via the mirror between Kavunenkos and Popovs routes.
In structure of the team masters and young climbers: E.Dmitrienko, A.Pugovkin, D.Tsyganov, S.Cherezov, A.Litvinov, P.Malygin and reservists and assistants: J.Glazyrin, V.Saveljev, V.Tsygankov, A.Kuharev -the doctor. Trainers and heads: Zaharov N.N., Balezin V.V. At the same time on the wall there will be a team of friends - contenders from Sverdlovsk area.
On 21.01.04 the team left to Novosibirsk. A route: Krasnoyarsk - Novosibirsk - Almaty - Bishkek - gorge Aksu. The helicopter from Bishkek is ordered on 26.01.

We wish them a good weather, success, victory!

Krasnoyarsk route on Ak-Su: the latest news from Anton Pugovkin and Nikolai Zakharov.
The team of Krasnoyarian climbers flew off on 26.01.04 almost under the schedule in 10 a.m. from Bishkek, but did not reach Ak-Su gorge because of the bad weather and cloudiness in the mountains from 2000 up to 4000m. First their plane unsuccessfully tried to fly over the pass, and then to reach four other gorges. They had forced landing first in Talas, where they were waiting for the better weather about two hours more and then flu in Osh and had to spend the night there. Today, 27.01.04, the weather absolutely is deteriorated with a dense fog and a rain. Therefore most likely they willl not depart anywhere today. Despite of whims of the weather they are fine and have a mood vigorous.

www.stolby.ru

(26.01.2004)
Results Ice Climbing World Championships 2004
Saturday, 24.01.2004 Difficult

Men
1. Harald "Harry" Berger Austria
2. Evgeny Kriovsheitsev Ukraine
3. Samuel Anthamatten Switzerland
4. Mauro "BUBU" Bole Italy
5. Alexandre Matveev Russia
6. Jack Mller Switzerland
7. Simon Anthamatten Switzerland
8. Markus Bendler Austria
Woman
1. Ines Papert Germany
2. Natalia Koulikova Russia
3. Kirsten Buchmann Germany
4. Ksenia Sdobnikova Russia
5. Anna Torretta Italy
6. Gundi Kraf Germany
7. Maryam Filippova Russia
8. Petra Mller Switzerland

Friday, 23.01.2004 Speed

Men
1. Alexandre Matveev Russia
2. Nikolai Chved Russia
3. Igor Fayzullin Russia
4. Urs Odermatt Switzerland
5. Evgeny Krivosheitsev Ukraine
6. Alexey Ogurtsov Russia
7. Alexey Dengin Russia
8. Marco Mller Switzerland

Woman
1. Natalia Koulikova Russia
2. Maryam Filippova Russia
3. Joulia Oleinikova Russia
4. Ines Papert Germany
5. Marina Rashitova Russia
6. Marina Maslova Russia
7. Anna Torretta Italy
8. Stphanie Maureau France


http://www.mountain-life.ch/iwc/photo.htm

(26.01.2004)
Peak Lenin Winter Expedition
25.01.04 "We did the first full carry from the weather station to Lukovaja Poljana (Onion's Glade), the temperature is -25C, it's very windy in the valley, the snow is deep.
On Monday, 26 we have a rest day. Everybody is OK".
(26.01.2004)
Ama-Dablam Winter Expedition

On January, 20-21 the team from Moscow National Technical University leaded by Vladimir Belousov made successful ascent of Ama Dablam (6856m).
The team members are: Novikov Alexandr Novikova Natalia Dobrinskij Pavel Glebov Viatcheslav Timofeev Sergej
The guys are going to Lukla now and tommorow they are about to be in Katmandu.


Massif of Shkhara (5068 ) from the north, Caucasus, Russia. A view from Southern face of Dykh-Tay, December 2001. Western Shkhara (5057 m) - a small eminence in a ridge going on the West (i.e. to the right) from the main top of the massif.
Authors: Pavlov Sergei, Voronezh, Schepachkov Sergei, Troitsk, Moscow region.

(21.01.2004)
Winter ascent on West Shkhara, 6B
Rumiya Gafarova, Nalchik informs:
On January, 14, 2004 the combined team of climbers from Saratov and Republic Dagestan came from the city of Nalchik in "Bezengi" Mountaineering Camp going to ascend West Shkhara via Razumov's route, 6B, with following traverse up to the east top of Dzhangi-Tau.
The West Shkhara top (5068m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range in the central part of Bezengi Wall. If the nearest summits Dzhangi-Tau East and Shkhara Main were climbed from the north in 1888 and 1930, and West Shkhara via the Southern ridge- in 1903, the first ascent on West Shkhara, North Face was done after the numerous attempts only in 1981 by a team of mountaineering camp "Bezengi" (the leader- A.Blankovsky). The other team of the same camp fixed success, having made first ascent on Northern Face via the buttress of East Ridge (the leader-Y.Razumov).
Both ascents were accomplished within the framework of the Championship of the USSR on mountaineering in a technical class and awarded with bronze medals.
The members of the expedition participating in the winter Championship of Russia on mountaineering in a technical class:
Andrey Grigorov, Konstantin Dorro, Michael Zinovjev, Sergey Volkov and Oleg Bibin Saratov; Shanavaz Shanavazov, Kamil Aliev, Tagir Mazanov Makhachkala; Anatoly Goryaev- Kaspiysk, the senior coach of the team - Ivan Serdyukov, Nalchik.
A speciality of the route is the bad weather conditions of a severe climate in Bezengi and a limitation of maneuver: the climbers have to move only in a corridor in width no more than 30 meters. Ice collapses are possible both from the left and from the right sides of the route.
From "Bezengi"camp up to the hut "Dzhangi-kosh" where the base camp is settled is 18 kilometers, with altitude difference 1000 m, therefore the climbers had to spend a significant part of time and forces carrying all equipment and products.
Everything, including sincere care of climbers by a management of climbing camp "Bezengi" and hospitable hospitality of locals of Bezengi gorge, has been done to make the safe ascent.
We wish the guys good luck and we wait for their successful returning.

(21.01.2004)
The Ice climbing championship of Kirov region. Finals
Details

(20.01.2004)
Peak Lenin Winter Expedition
Winter Lenin peak (7134m, Pamir) ascent within the limits of the project "SNOW LEOPARD" in winter starts on January, 21, 2004.
The planned route of the ascent: via Arkins route or via Razdelnaya top depends on a condition of a snow cover. Style of the ascent alpine, the duration of ascent is planned for 25 days.
The members of the expedition:
The leader - Nikolay Chervonenko, master of sports, Snow leopard,
Climbers: Urubko Denis, master of sports of the international class, Snow leopard, Krynin Alexander, Tortladze Giya, Mynzhysarov Daniyar, Mynzhysarov Kaysar, Vilytsin Nikolai, Samoilov Arseniy, Klunniy Igor, Gubarev Alexander
About the expedition


Everest - Lhotse

Makalu

Thalay Sagar

Khan-Tengri

(20.01.2004)
Alexey Bolotov Birthday. He is 41 now! Congratulation!

CV
Lhotse Middle, 8413m, first ascent
Makalu, 8463m, West Face, first ascent
Thalay Sagar, 6905m, new line
Everest, 8848m, twice, the second ascent was made without using supplementary oxygen
Khan-Tengri, 6995m, many times including North Face ascents
Peak Pobeda, 7439m, many times

Interview with Alexey BOLOTOV

 

 

 

(20.01.2004)
"Bubu" M10 Onsight
Mauro Bubu Bole has onsighted Fly in the Wind, Kurt Astner masterpeace, M10 in the Val di Landro of the Italian Dolomites.

 

Photos Sara Cirilli/www.climbubu.com

 

 7600(19.01.2004)
Shisha Pangma Winter Expedition
17.01.04
10h17 Barbara Zwerger reports:
First call from Simone at 3 oclock a.m. Tibet time (10 oclock p.m. European time):
Hi, we did start to early We climbed on the fix rope and than I fixed some more rope, but than it was too cold We didnt feel our feet and so we decided to go back to our tend and here we are warming up our feet with our cooker.!
Everest-Lhotse NupseSecond call, 7:30 a.m. European time:
Hi, only now we are out of the channel. I can see Everest and Lhotse. We are now at 7650m and it was very cold in the last hours, about 40/45 degrees. The last part was harden than I aspect, I had to climb and some times I used dry tooling. It was very difficult and I had to do many work without gloves, fortunately I do not suffer cold too much. I see also the summit and we will continue, also if now its 12 oclock a.m., but here there is sun till 6 p.m. We hope to reach summit.. Bye till later!
 9:50 a.m. European time:
"Im real sad, but it was to dangerous to continue. I phoned to the Spanish gay who opened this route. They told me, that we have to rappel down about 50 meters to reach the plateau. But the serac was more, about 100 meters and we has not enough rope. So we have to make a lot of difficult traverse instate of the easy ridge. There the terrain was green ice or windblowed snow It was very dangerous. At 2 p.m. we reached 7700, but Piotr is tired and said me, that we can continue but we have to make one bivy. I think this is too dangerous, because its very cold and Piotr lost just some parts last winter in K2. So I prefer go back. This is of sure the 8000 meter peak I attack better. Im already powerful. Now Im waiting Piotr at the col for descending together Bye and hear us later
20h09
" Hi to everbody. Now I'm here in Camp 2 with Darek. Piotr went down to Camp 1, because he is too tired for one more attempt tomorrow. Darek came up with Pierre, the canadien gay, but he went also down... Tomorrow, if my finger is ok (he has a little frostbite), Darek and me want to try one more time summit... Hear us tomorrow "
   218.01.04
19h45 Simone reports:

" Hello friends!! Now we are here again in Base camp at 5300 mt. Today had been another difficult and extreme day because after the summit attempt of yesterday I stopped at 7100 mt for another to make a second and immediate attemt. The night had been extremly cold and I belive we had lower temperature of 17th January (-52 in the night....!). So this morning I came back from C2 to C1, ABC and Base Camp with a havy pack (35 KG).
I attach the photoes of our attempt on the Figueras Route opened from Spanish team in 1995 and never repeated.. WE STOPPED AT 7700 mt because there was the 3 p.m. and the shadow alrerady came on us and our feet started again to be frozen.   ... If we continued to climb I'm sure we reach the summit but we have to make a Bivouc (Bivy) in estreme condition risking to die or to loose feets and hands. It had been a very difficult and extreme experience and decision to stop our climb so near and soeasy to the summit...
We are the first man in the story to climb south face of Shisha Pangma in winter and to do the first repetition of the Figueras route but WE DIDN'T summit and we are so sad for this..
I thank you to following us in the last 50 days and I hope you get some good emotions in doing that. In any case I'm really satisfied of the climb because we climbed and fixed rope always in 2 people, me and Piotr. Two people helped from Darek (Cameraman and climber) and Jan (leader and climber very positive.
Keep in touch and I hope to have you also in my next expedition....
Simone Moro "

http://www.simonemoro.com/

(16.01.2004)
Shisha Pangma Winter Expedition
16.01.04
"Now we are in Camp 2 at 7100 m. We climbed very well and fast, It took me 4 hours and Piotr 5. We carried up some more material, especially food, 50m of Kevlar and some extra mattress. In 8 hours we will start for our summit attempt, the first 200 meters we can climb on the ropes, but than we have to fix the last 200-300 meters till the end of the face. This work we have to do in the darkness of the night, because we will start from our tend at midnight (7 p.m. European time). If there will be news I will call at home, so we can public them on the homepage. Pray for us and cross your fingers.!
Simone (via satellitephone)

(15.01.2004)
Shisha Pangma Winter Expedition
15.01.04
"Hi! This morning Piotr and me gone from Base Camp directly to Camp 1 at 6100 meters. We feel us very well and tomorrow we will start with the first sunshine to Camp 2. Saturday we will get out of our tend at 12 o'clock in the night for our summit push.
We have to fix other 300-500 meters of rope for our return, so it will be a very hard day for us. Weather forecast is ok, because wind will be not too strong (11-15 m/sec) and there will be only some clouds.
Follow us also tomorrow Simone
(via satellitephone)

(14.01.2004)
The Results of XII open CIS// Mountaineering Championship, 2003

(13.01.2004)
Ak Su winter attempt. Chaplinsky route
On January, 14, Russian-Kyrgystan team from Ekaterinburg-Bishkek: Eugeny Novoseltsev, Sergey Kofanov, Nikolay Gutnik and Vitaly Akimov will leave Bishek for Ak Su winter attempt via Chaplinsky route and maybe in the upper part via Chabaline-route.
On January, 20, another Russian team from Krasnoyarsk are going to Ak Su as well.
Ak Su, 5217m, is the most challenging SIC big wall. The first winter ascent was made by Pavel Shabalin (Kirov), Ilyas Tukhvatullin (Tashkent) and Alexandre Abramov (Moscow). They started on December, 8, and after four days of fixing rope on December, 11, the team began upwards in capsul style via "Cold Corner". Things were progressing well and after having climbed 45 pitches they summited on the night from 21 to 22. After having had "the cold night" on the summit, on December, 23 the team descended. During all their ascent the weather was unsettled, it was snowing on average once per three days. On the nights the temperature was -20C and below. On the ridge and on the summit the wind was extremely strong.
The first and only winter ascent by pair was made in December 1998 by Michael Pershin and Igor Nefedov (both from Ekaterinburg) via Chaplinsky route (YI 5.10 3 1500m) in capsul style. The ascent took them 22 days (from Dec, 10 to 31) and four days took the descent (from Jan, 1 to 4)

 

 

(12.01.2004)
Shisha Pangma Winter Expedition
12.01.04
Hi friends!! Here again in front of computer to send you this report.. Darek Zaluski came back to base camp after his night in C2 and ABC.Jan Szulc Yesterday our leader Jan Szulc made a nice joke with us and by radio told us from base camp that this morning he wanted to try summit using the bottle of oxigen that he decided to carry in ABC for safety. We ( I and Piotr) was surprised and a little disappointed about this project because we worked 1 and ? month fixing rope and we hope to have the first attempt..... This morning Jan arrived in base camp smiling and joking with us....... "bastard" !!!!
Today we received the weather forecast from Italy where my girlfriend Barbara contacte mr. Gabel in Insbruck. Gabel is really a king of the forecast. No one mistake within 45 days...... Great !!!!!!!!
The forecast advised us to wait one day more and try the summit the 17th january. The 19th yaks will start from base camp to go back
Jan SzulcLast curiosity. In one of the photoes you can see our cook to arrange water to give us to eat and drink
Ciao

10.01.04
The games are really in the deep and crucial moment.... We planned to try summit this night but in the last two days we worked as a horses carrying ropes, tends, fods and fixing rope. Now it remain 300 meters different maybe less... to the top of the face (unclimbed in winter) and than we should have 600 meters easy ridge to the summit. You can see from the photos how is the situation. Now we planned two days rest and that the final attempt. We would like to try summit Thursday also because Thuesday and Wedesnday the wind should be till 150Km /h.... We will see the weather forecast Monday.... Follow us
Simone

 

http://www.simonemoro.com/

(9.01.2004)
Ice Climbing Event 2004, Argentiere
The 14th Ice Climbing Event got off to a cold start in France's Argentiere - La Bessee yesterday morning. The famous Fournel international meeting, which continues until the 11th of January, attracts up to 800 climbers from 30 different countries and is therefore rightly considered one of the most important climbing meetings in Europe and further afield.
As ever, participants are transported by mini-buses to the 300+ icefalls in the morning, while the afternoon programs within the ICEPO village include workshops, gear tests, a selection of the best Banff mountain films and, new for this edition, the Drycontest and Dynotrophy competitions.
The get-together is obviously all about having fun, climbing ice and meeting other climbers from completely different backgrounds. And seeing some of the world's most famous in action, including Arnaud Guillaume, Christophe Moulin and Francois Damilano...

Organisation
Communaute de Commune du Pays des Ecrins
Office Intercommunal des Sports du Pays des Ecrins Argentiere

Gerard Pailheiret
contact@ice-fall.com

Press office
Pomme Depras
pommedepras@free.fr

(9.01.2004)
New expedition to Makalu (8463 m) is planned for the Spring 2004 by a team from Kazakhstan. The team has already climbed 8 of 14 summits over 8000 m and made numerous difficult ascents in Tien-Shan.
The team from Kazakhstan plans to climb Makalu via difficult West ridge (first climbed in 1971 by french expedition lead by Parago).




(9.01.2004)
Shisha Pangma Winter Expedition
8.01.04
Today I make my report by satellite phone - we reached directly Camp 1. We were very quick and this means that we are well acclimatized. Up there we are 3, Piotre, Darek, and me. Tomorrow all of us will bring up 100 meter of line and we will climb over 7000 meters.
We continue hoping that we can find a small place for our tents over 7200 meters and to avoid a bivi in a crevasse at 6700 meters. If we are able to fixing the ropes according to plans, than we will try summit on Sunday. Weather forecast is ok and wind will be not too strong. Next week wind will be very strong (full jet stream), about 100 km/h with maximal points of 150 km/h...
Ciao till tomorrow
Simone

(8.01.2004)
The French Spiderman Alain Robert are going to Sydney to attack new skyscraper on January,29
He has been in Sydney to attack on the Opera House, then on the HMAS Sydney and a breach of security on the Sydney Harbour Bridge, and now the new goal.
Alain Robert story: The 41-year-old Robert has climbed over 60 skyscrapers and landmarks world-wide including Malaysia's Petronas Towers, the Eiffel Tower, the Empire State Building, and the straight-faced, glass-fronted Sears Tower in Chicago-the highest occupied building in the world.

http://www.alainrobert.com




(8.01.2004)
32 years old Italian Anna Torretta has repeated Tomahawk (M10+/M11-) at the Swiss crags of Kandersteg, 30-foot Robert Jasper asterpeace. Last year German Ines Papert made the first female ascent of this route, thus alpine guide Anna Torretta is the second women to repeat the grade.





(6.01.2004)
Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj - Aconcagua South Face, New Line
Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed approximately 2.500m high new route in the South Face of Aconcagua. They labeled it the "most difficult climbed route" in the before mentioned face up to date. The ascent took five days, another day was spent crossing the peak and descending to the valley. They returned to Base camp on December 23.
"Of all my ascents, this was one of the most difficult," says Tomaz. "It has been six years since I've last climbed roped up. The last person on the other end of my rope was Johan (Janez Jeglic, Humar's co-climber during the Nuptse expedition, comm.) All I can say about Ales is this - a new kitten with well sharpened claws is born."
www.humar.com

(6.01.2004)
Shisha Pangma Winter Expedition

5.01.04
"
Hello friends! We are back to base camp after 3 difficult days on the face. We reached 7000 meters and fixed totally 1500 meters of fix rope.We didnt find yet any place to fix our last camp ( C2) and we still continue to climb and fix rope... We think to do a bivac for the final attempt... The face is totally icy and vertical and we have to climb with helmet and 2 ice axe. From the summit ridge continue to fall stones and ice and we play to avoid the impact... Im sending you 2 photos to understand our climb.
Follow us, Simone "

http://www.simonemoro.com/

(5.01.2004)
Shisha Pangma Winter Expedition

31.12.03
"Here is 19:09 and there is a strong wind that is trying to destroid our dining tend and blowing out everithing. Im writing at the computer but Im ready to run out from here in case the wind will win his challenge... After few hours we will have new year and we really hope that it will take again the good weather of the last days. Three members ( 2 canadian + the polish leader) are in C1 and tomorrow they will try jumaring on the rope and carry new ropes till 6700. I attach in this message one photo with the itinerary we climbed and fixed. After the point we reached the inclination of the face will remain high but maybe little less than the first part we climbed. I phoned to the first climbers of the route (Figueras 95) and he told me that there is no place for high camp on the face and we will have to work hard to get a platform. The face is completly a green and hard ice... I wish to all of you a nice 2004 with health and smile...
Simone & C."

http://www.simonemoro.com/

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