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(23.01.2008)
New Route on Fitz Roy's North Pillar

Bean Bowers and Rolando Garibotti have climbed a much-eyed line on the back side of the North Pillar (aka Goretta Pillar) of Fitz Roy in Argentine Patagonia. Poor weather and climbing conditions prevented them from continuing along Renato Casarottos 1979 route from the top of the pillar to Fitz Roys summit.

Source: www.climbing.com

(22.01.2008)
Ice Master Daone, Anthamatten and Muller win

Simon Anthamatten and Petra Muller from Switzerland won the first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2008 in Valle di Daone. Jenny Lavarda from Italy and Markus Bendler from Austria placed second.

Men's final
1) Simon Anthamatten Sui
2) Markus Bendler Aut
3) Andreas Steindl Sui
4) Patrick Aufdenblatten Sui
5) Alexey Tomilov Rus
6) Maxim Tomilov Ita
7) Herbert Klammer Ita
8) Park Hee Yong Kor

Women's final
1) Petra Muller Sui
2) Jenny Lavarda Ita
3) Maria Tolokonina Rus
4) Felicitas Feller Sui
5) Anna Torretta Ita
6) Natalya Kulikova Rus
7) Angelica Rainer Ita
8) Barbara Zwerger Ita

Source: www.planetmountain.com

(17.01.2008)
Winter Gestola via Khergiani route

A team from Saint-Petersburg - Alexander Gukov (the leader), Alik Izotov, Viktor Koval and Sergey Kondrashin - climbed a direct line of Gestola North Face (4860m) via Khergiani route, 5B (Russian grade, ex 6) in Bezengi Wall massif, Caucasus, Russia.

(17.01.2008)
Suspended Piolet d'Or

The Organizers of the Piolet d'Or have dedicated all their efforts in order to give this international celebration of great alpinism the widest possible international support. A "Charte" has been presented, defining more clearly the ion criteria. It has gathered a wide consensus and in the future it will be possible to further improve it. You can find below a copy of the "Charte" for your knowledge.

Since it has not been possible to obtain everybody's agreement on time, the Organizers have decided to suspend the 17th Piolet d'Or 2008 concerning 2007 performances.

(13.12.2007)
First 8c+ on sight in history

Patxi Usobiaga has sent "Bizi Euskaraz" on sight. It is the first ascent of this route which Patxi has proposed as a serious 8c+, but always waiting for the opinion of future repeaters.

"Bizi Euskaraz" is located in Etxauri, a crag in the Navarra region of Spain. The route was bolted by Ekaitz Maiz four years ago and has been an open project since then, despite the efforts of strong climbers. Ekaitz Maiz and Gorka Karapeto were present during the historical ascent and endorse the grade proposed by Patxi.

Patxi is pushing the limits of this sport day by day during the last couple of weeks: one world cup, two 9a+, three 9a, one 8c, etc.
And now this 8c+ on sight which raises him up one more step above the rest of climbers again.

No doubt Patxi is in shape and making history.

Source: kairn.com

(13.12.2007)
Alpinist Fire

On December 5, at approximately 11 a.m. CST, an Oregon, Illinois, warehouse that contained all of Alpinist Magazine's inventory--back issues, hats, shirts, water bottles, stickers, coffee mugs--burned to the ground. Nothing was salvaged.

According to news reports, a forklift operator backed into a gas line in the warehouse, which was owned by the Kable News Company, a fulfillment company that provides subion services for magazines such as Alpinist. The forklift punctured a gas line the escaping gas was then ignited by a nearby space heater. The warehouse's twenty employees escaped without injury, but by the time the 200-plus firefighters arrived from twenty area fire departments to combat the blaze, there was little they could do but let the two-story building burn to the ground.

Rockford, Illinois', WREX-TV reported Oregon Fire Chief Don Heller as saying that the building was essentially "a box of timber." "And we're still trying to figure out why the sprinkler system was shut off in this building," Heller, who estimated the damage at as much as $8 million, was quoted as saying.

For the Jackson, Wyoming-based Alpinist LLC, the fire came at a particularly critical time.

"The destruction of our entire inventory, including all our back issues, would have been bad enough. This one, though, came in the middle of the holidays--our bread-and-butter season," said Alpinist publisher Marc Ewing. "We're dealing with details such as insurance and inventory loss at the moment, but the fire hasn't affected subion fulfillment in the least."

""The silver lining has been the response from the climbing community," said Alpinist co-founder Christian Beckwith. "We've received emails of support from around the world, and numerous readers have resubscribed or subscribed for the first time. Regardless of what it means to us as a business, as climbers the value of such responses is immense."

Hailed by Italian climbing legend Reinhold Messner as "The best climbing magazine in the world today," Alpinist Magazine is an archival-quality, quarterly publication dedicated to world alpinism and adventure climbing. Alpinist owners and employees are continuing to finish work on Issue 23, which is due to ship to the printers on December 13 (it will be in stores March 1, 2008).
They are also continuing their work on The 2008 Alpinist Film Festival, which is being held January 17-20, 2008, in Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

"We've put far too much work into Alpinist to let a fire slow us down," said Ewing. "But we are thinking of creating a commemorative t-shirt that reads, 'Official Alpinist Fork Lift Operator'. One day, we want to look back on this and have a good laugh."

Source: www.alpinist.com

(5.12.2007)
Odintsov's Autana Tepui Expedition (Venezuela). Rozov jumped. The team is forced to descend

On December 4 at 9-00 local time Valery Rozov made a B.A.S.E.-jump from Autana wall. Having climbed about half of the route the team had to bail because of acute shortage of water.
Rains and wet weather changed with hard dryness. Five days - without any rain. The temperature reached 40 degrees. The guys on the wall felt like on a pan.

And after Valery had jumped they got BC last night. All of the guys are safe and sound.

Details are coming soon.

Sergey Krasko


photo: www.alpikor.org
(3.12.2007)
Urh Cehovin brings 8C to Slovenia


Urh Cehovin has achieved his dream project in Zalog, Slovenia. The new problem adds a proper start to his own The beginning of the end, 8B+, resulting in the 16-move The end, 8C.

Source: http://www.8a.nu


Dani Andrada on La Novena Enmienda\' 9a+/9b, Santa Linya.
Foto:Pete O\'Donovan
(3.12.2007)
Chris Sharma: 9a+ in Santa Linya when he's feeling kinda "heavy"...


According to Victor Fernandez (the guy who has bolted about the half of the routes in Santa Linya (Lleida - Spain) on November 30 Chris Sharma sent La novena enmienda, 9a+, a 52-meter combination of 5.14c and hard 5.14b routes. Not bad since we've heard that he's feeling kinda "heavy"......

Dani Andrada made FA of the route on April 2005.

Source: http://www.8a.nu


photo: www.8a.nu
(3.12.2007)
8b, 8b+ and 8c on-sight in one day by Patxi Usobiaga Patxi Usobiaga is still in Catalonia (Spain) and last sunday he visited Raco de Misa in Montsant.

First he on-sighted La Esclava del Temps, 60m 8b and bolted by Toni Arbones then, he did an FA, also on-sight David Brasco's last project in the sector called Variante Monocroma, proposing 8c for it as he felt it way harder than Falconetti, L-Mens and Hidrofobia (all three 8b+). At the end of the day, and in the same style, he fired-off the above mentioned Falconetti, 8b+ which he thought was easy for the grade.


The score from the last seven days is a new world record and only these ascents would almost make him the world ranking leader. It seems like he is in better shape than any climber has ever been!

Source: http://www.8a.nu

(30.11.2007)
Thirty-two years after... Most Famous Boulder Problems Was Repeated Twice

Thirty-two years after its first ascent, one of Colorado's most famous boulder problems was repeated twice in the same afternoon.

Trice (aka A.H.R., or Another Holloway Route) is a short problem at Flagstaff Mountain above Boulder, established in 1975 by Jim Holloway. On November 15, Carlo Traversi sent the problem for its second ascent, and about half an hour later Jamie Emerson did it too.

Video

Source: climbing.com

(30.11.2007)
Climber of the year. 8a.nu Preliminary Top List

1. Patxi Usobiaga
#1 8a Lead:
#2 WC Lead:
#2 World Champion
#1 Dima Rock Master
La Sportiva, Black Diamond, Ternua, Kirolgi

2. David Graham
#3 8a Lead:
#3 8A Boulder:
Petzl, Prana, BEAL, 5.10

3. Maja Vidmar -85 SLOVENIA
#3 8a Lead:
#2 WC: Lead
#3 World Champion
#13 European Boulder Champion

Read more


Tyler Landman on Ode to a modern man,
photo: moonclimbing.com
(30.11.2007)
Tyler Landman is first to entrain the Midnight express or new problem of 8B+


Tyler Landman has done the FA of Midnight express, 8B+, at Boulder Canyon, Colorado. According Tyler this was "A longstanding project that was sitting, waiting." He adds that he's "Quite pleased to hatch the canyon's hardest."

Source: http://www.8a.nu

(30.11.2007)
Petzl Roc Trip. Climbing Video

Video from Petzl Roc Trip run in Octobre at Red River Gorge (USA).

Starring: Du Lac, Andrada, Sharma, Fuselier, Pouvreau, Lamiche,...

Enjoy

(28.11.2007)
Venezuela. Five Pitches Sent. Relief Is Terrible

Valera Rozov:
Five pitches were sent. Not so quickly as we've planned. The wall is overhanging slippery, relief is terrible, none of cracks, wet moss, heat, dampness, etc


27.11.07.
Two pitches have been climbed.

The total darkness came and that means all the bloodsuckers gad- and sand- fles, wasps, mosquitos, gnats and other insects in immense quantity here flew away and I can sit still for some time without sudden movements! and to write about our jungle life. (Damn! It's seems I've been too hasty: some horseleeches are stinging me!)

In spite of tactics of delay and deliberateness of local porters we finally got under the wall and set the camp at the altitude of 300 meters in a comfortable place. Everything is OK now. Within minutes of walking distance there is a creak where we can have a shower from a small bottle exercising some ingenuity.

To tell the truth the place is rather curst it's wet, hot, but suddenly without prior warning it starts raining, insects attack and our clothes do not want to dry...

The wall is located in 50 minutes of climbing. Altitude gain by doing so is 320 meters. We paved a rather good path, but sometimes have to take a machete in hands again. It is running wild and the blazes are paling. It is very easy to get lost.

The jungle does not make an lively impression with its grey-green colors.Thelight of the sun does not reach the bottom of it. The trees, bushes, bearded and no, lianas and a piece of the sky somewhere above, murmuring beasts, snakes, rummy speedy black with greenback frogs and shaggy spiders of the size of a Raumer's axe.

At every evening party Valery Rosov titles The Best Scout of the day the most doing guy.

The most part of team's members spend the nights in hammocks wrapping up the mosquito nets. Only weak in spirit Shaferov, Rosov and Provalov, the same old way, smother in tents. Thje Doctor and Odintsov are sleeping in tents too but due to their self-preservative instinct: they fell out of their hammocks and don't want to relive old memories.

The Doctor is a dearest t man. He treats patients gratuitously and gives valuable help.

About the route: the mountain is big and hanging. There are not many suitable spots where to set belay stations and not much cracks and edges.
Minimum up about halfway via the wall is covered with green plants, snags and lianas that just break loose in bad faith when you snatch at it. That grass I adapted to pad under the rope to appear as some kind of a protector.

The wall is wet and greasy in places, but in the afternoon the sun grill us and sometimes stones collapse from above.

Yesterday during afternoon we started climbing. Today have already done the second pitch. Not so fast. . Well, we'll see how the things move on. Tomorrow we will lift the first 50 liters of water that we have to take from BC. Sergey Krasko plans to look for a land-site and make a fire in our turn we will direct him from the wall.

Valery Rozov's first words about future jump: "Well, the things is rather bad just as people told me.

And the bad news: just at the first working day the punch broke down. We have to repair it.

(27.11.2007)
Russian Piolet D'Or award 2007

On 25 November presentation ceremony of Russian Piolet D'Or award 2007 took place in Moscow for the first time. K2 West Face successful climb got the imperatorial laurels and became the first winner of this title in Russia voted through by all the 13 nominee-teams' leaders (this kind of voting is known as "Hamburg score"). The second prize was adjudged to Babanov-Kofanov Jannu climb, the third Klenov-Davy-Shabunin Shingu Charpa ascent.

People's Choice Award fell to Demchenko club team for their ascent on Haina Brakk (Savel'ev-Korol-Muryshev-Nilov). Final protocol

1. -2. (8611m)
Route: West Face direct, first ascent, 6B (Russian grade)
Terms: June - August
Team: P. Shabalin, I. Tukhvatullin, V.Volodin, G. Sokolov, E. Vinigradsky, V. Gorelik, N. Totmyanin, A. Bolotov, G. Krirevsky, A. Mariev, V. Popovich

2. Jannu (7710m) (V. Babanov- S. Kofanov)
Route: "Magic Pillar" via West Ridge, alpine style, overall.3 000 m, VI, WI 4+, av. steep.80 grad, M5.
Terms: 8 days, 2 days descent, 6B (Russian grade).
Team: Valery Babanov, Sergey Kofanov.

3. Shingu Charpa ( m)
Route: "Never more", East Face Center, first climb, 6B (Russian grade), overall 1600m
Terms: August, 4-24
Team: M. Davy, A. Klenov, A. Shabunin

4. Great Trango (6237m.), . ,
Route: NW face, new route,
Terms:
Team: A. Mikhalitsin, E. Belyaev, A. Komissarov, I. Loginov

5. Great Trango (6237m.), SW face, Karakoram.
Route: NW Face bastion, second ascent (Ukrainian route 2003), 6B (Russian grade)
Terms: July, 4-17
Team: O. Khvostenko, V. Arkhipov, J. Glazyrin, A. Litvinov, S. Cherezov, A.Yanushevich

6. Ak-Su (N) (5217m) winter climb
Route: North Face Center, Ruchkin route, 6B (Russian grade)
Terms: Jan, 21 - Feb, 4
Team: O. Khvostenko, E. Belyaev, V. Gun'ko, I. Loginov, D. Prokof'ev, B. Rodikov

7. Kyzyl-Asker (5600m.)
Route: SE Face, first climb
Terms:
Team: A. Odintsov, M. Mikhailov, A. Ruchkin
Kyzyl -Asker Southeast face
8. Haina Brakk (5852m)
Route: SE Face from the right, first climb
Terms: July, 18-23
Team: Demchenko club team- D. Savel'ev, E. Korol, A. Muryshev, S. Nilov

9. Torres del Paine (2800.)
Route: East Face Center, 6A (Russian grade)
Terms: Jan, 14 - Feb, 2
Team: A. Seregin, T. Akjmedkjanov, S. Kovalev, I. Pekhterev

10. Alexander Blok peak (5239 m)
Route: North Face Center pillar, first climb, 6A (Russian grade)
Terms: March, 5-18
Team: A. Korobkov, I. Bobrov, S. Dashkevich, K. Litvinov, R. Ravilov, S. Timofeev

11. Engels peak (6510.)
Route: NE Face Center. pillar (Chunovkin's route), 6B (Russian grade)
Terms: July, 30 - Aug, 8
Team: R. Nagaev, K. Ivanov, R. Kirichenko, O. Koltunov, D. Krasnov

12. Torres del Paine, climb+ base
Route: British route (1963), 5B (Russian grade), B.A.S.E. (2800.)
Terms: February 2007
Team: V. Rozov, A. Ruchkin, A. Odintsov, D. Provalov, V. Kachkov, S. Krasko)

13. Peak 4810
Route: 6B (Russian grade)
Term:
Team: G. Kochetkov, A. Soshnikov, V. Kozlov

(27.11.2007)
News from Odintsov's Autana Tepui Expedition 26.11.2007

News from Odintsov's Autana Tepui Expedition (Venezuela, Amazonian region): a three-man team of Shaferov-Odintsov-Provalov has started working on the wall

Finally we got under the wall. A three-man team of Shaferov-Odintsov-Provalov has started working. The first two pitches go via vertical rock, the rest part of the wall is hanging There are only a few variants of the possible route. Valery Rozov and the camera-men are upon the look for a landing site: that wants some doing because there are a lot of trees there Valery will land right on them.

Because of high humidity the cameras refuse to work, because of high trees the internet-connection is almost impossible due to satellite's poor-reception area there.

The Indians appear rather strange people and we couldn't set working relations for a while for an uncertain reason. .

25.11.2007

We have been trekking through the jungle north-east of Columbia boundary for two days.

The satellite connectivity is poor. Today we could find an open space of 2*2 meters to get satellite service area. Because of high humidity in the jungle we feel like in a cave. All the things are wet. The thermometer shows more than 30 degrees of heat. There are a lot of insect like bees around. We have not seen any beast of prey here. We have to save our video hardware and shoot a little due to such humidity

It's really close to our mountain but we have some problems with the Indians they refuse to carry our luggage and show the right way. . It is a problem how to communicate with them.

They just behave disobediently. After an hour of carrying sit and take time off. We have to do that by ourselves: some round trips a day. If to climb a hill we can not see our mountain because of fog drifted obscuringly into everything around.

But we hope to set our BC soon and things will straighten out.

Denis Provalov

22.11.2007

Now we became a machete crew because of every of us got this very dangerous thingy.

It seems we got acclimatized a little as today we can outride the heat. But the sunshine is ferocious in the afternoon at this time of year there. All the plastic things just want to melt under the sun. In the evening when the sun dips below the horizon it becomes rather comfortable. You can use one's beam and move your body.

Everything is ready for tomorrow's date of sailing.

All the things and food are collected and packed.

Denis Provalov

(23.11.2007)
Hindu Raj: 3 routes established by French climbers

Mounteverest.net reports that French team's expedition took place this summer in the Hindu Raj range, in a valley south of the Koyo Zom, and included a number of firsts.

"Over the time of 3 weeks, we established 3 routes in the valley : the south pillar of Chotar Zom (6058m) (III, 5.4, 70, 1200m), the north-east ridge of Nashran (5200m) (II, 70, 800m) and a rock route on the Pois Chhish (4400m) (5.10b, 700m)," Florian says.

"We named them all as they are all likely to be first ascents."

"We also spotted a lot of ambitious objectives in the surroundings including the impressive Dhuli Chhish north-west," Florian ends his heads-up. More details

Source: www.mounteverest.net

(23.11.2007)
Date update: 24.11.2007
News from Odintsov's Autana Tepui Expedition (Venezuela, Amazonian region)

We made all hand-to-mouth buying, clothed Sergey Shaferov, jumped the schedule a little when appeared we met another group and can't take a departure today but only tomorrow early in the morning and the river-voyage from Orinoko to Rio Autana will take about 4 C 5 days up to the base camp.

Now we are giving the hammock a swing and learning Spanish: amore J.

Denis Provalov:

It's very hot here, at the equator, like on Abkhazian seaboard in early August - you can live here. You should have mind over matter and move only fluently.

It's a real fact that there is fiendish heat here after midday and you feel perfectly deadly but after 5 o'clock - a heap better.

19.11
The team flied from Karakas by a small plane.

(20.11.2007)
Difficult New Route established in Madagascar

A German/Austrian team comprised of Toni Lamprecht, Felix Frieder, Sandra Wielebnowski and Beno Wagner established on Madagascar's Tsaranoro Be the six hundred meter route, with a crux pitch of 8a, over nine days. All pitches were bolted on lead and red-pointed by all the team members before their one day ascent of the 18 pitch route in August.

Source: www.alpinist.com

(19.11.2007)
2007 Lead World Cup Final Ranking

  Women
1. Vidmar Maja SLO 548.91
  2. Eiter Angela AUT 500.31
  3. Sarkany Muriel BEL 414.43
  4. Gros Natalija SLO 313.05
5. Anda Villanueva Irati ESP 289.98
6. Durif Charlotte FRA 277.97
  7. Markovic Mina SLO 277.60
  8. Kobayashi Yuka JPN 266.91
  9. Saurwein Katharina AUT 238.02
  10. Eyer Alexandra SUI 236.23

  Full results

  Men
1. USOBIAGA LAKUNZA Patxi ESP 425.97
  2. Julian Puigblanque Ramn  ESP 422.08
  3. Verhoeven Jorg NED 399.03
  4. Mrzek Toms CZE 374.17
  5. Crespi Flavio ITA 355.82
  6. Lachat Cdric SUI 316.59
  7. Lama David AUT 266.11
  8. Millet Sylvain FRA 243.81
  9. Dugit Fabien FRA 174.63
  10. Midtboe Magnus NOR 173.71

  Full results
(19.11.2007)
Kranj Lead World Cup results. Final 2007 Lead World Cup ranking


Kranj Lead World Cup

Results

Women
1 Maja VIDMAR
2 Irati ANDA VILLANUEVA
3 Lu ka FRANKO
4 Caroline CIAVALDINI
 5 Charlotte DURIF
 6 Mina MARKOVI
 7 Alexandra EYER
 8 Muriel SARKANY

 Full results.
 

 Men
 1 Cedric LACHAT
 2 Flavio CRESPI
 3 Tombs MR ZEK
 4 Jakob SCHUBERT
 5 Magnus MIDTBOE
 6 Jorg VERHOEVEN
 7 Klemen BEKAN
 8 Valeriy KRYUKOV

 Full results.

(19.11.2007)
Pakistan announces 2008 concessions

As in 2007, the fees for 2008 will be as follows: K2: $6,000 for a team of seven with $1,000 per extra member

8001-8500m: $4500 for a team of seven with $750 per extra member

7501-8000m: $2000 with $250 per extra member

7001-7500m: $1250 with $150 per extra member

6501-7000m: $750 with $100 per extra member

All peaks up to 6500m will be royalty free.

More details

(13.11.2007)
Date update: 14.11.2007
King Lines Extras

Free download

Source: kairn.com

(13.11.2007)
Bouldering Championships: Boston

Paul Robinson and Alex Puccio won the third and final Mammut/EMS Bouldering Championships, at the Metrorock gyms outside Boston.
Mammut/EMS Bouldering Championships Metrorock Gyms, Massachusetts

Men
1. Paul Robinson
2. Rob DAnastasio
3. Ryan Olson

Women
1. Alex Puccio
2. Sydney McNair
3. Sasha DiGiulian

Source: climbing.com

(13.11.2007)
Broad Peak, Simone Moro. Winter Love Story

Simone Moro and his climbing partner Shaheen engage to come back to the winter attempt of Broad Peak (8047m),

(13.11.2007)
Madagascar multi-pitch on Tsaranoro Be

Toni Lamprecht, Felix Frieder, Sandra Wielebnowski and Benno Wagner have established the multi-pitch Manara-Potsiny (8a) on Tsaranoro Be, Madagascar.

Manara-Potsiny, Tsaranoro Be, Madagascar F.A. Toni Lamprecht, Felix Frieder, Sandra Wielebnowski, Benno Wagner
08/2007
RP: 28/08/2007
Grade: 8a
Length: 600 m, 18 pitches
Pitches: 4+, 6c, 6c+, 7b, 7a, 7b+, 7a+, 7a, 7b, 6c, 7b, 7a+, 8a, 7a+, 7a, 6c+, 7a, 7a+
Gear: 2x60m rope
Descent: the route is equipped for descent by abseil.

Source: www.planetmountain.com


Dmitry Sharafutdinov
Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
(12.11.2007)
Date update: 10.11.2007
Brno. Bouldering World Cup. Results

Men
1. Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS)
2. Kilian Fischhuber (AUT)
3. Stephane Julien (FRA)
4. Lukas Ennemoser (AUT)
5. Rustam Gelmanov (RUS)
6. Martin Strnk (CZE)

Full results.

2007 bouldering World Cup results:

Women
1. Juliette Danion (FRA)
2. Anna Sthr (AUT)
3. Olga Shalagina (UKR)
4. Yulia Abramchuk (RUS)
5. Olga Bibik (RUS)
6. Olga Bezhko (UKR)
Full results.

(9.11.2007)
Date update: 10.11.2007
National Congress of Italian Alpine Academy has given Guido Magnone, the a title of the honorary member of the Academy

National Congress of Italian Alpine Academy has given Guido Magnone, the legend between the alpinist 50s giants, the first summiter of Mount Fitz Roy in a two-man team with Lionel Terray, a title of the honorary member of the Academy. Now Guido is 80, and he is still fond of challenges.

Source: Kairn.com


Vidmar Maja
Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
(6.11.2007)

Valence World Cup. Results

Women

1 Vidmar Maja SLO 47.00 +
2 Eiter Angela AUT 47.00
3 Gros Natalija SLO 45.00 +
4 Sarkany Muriel BEL 45.00 -
5 Franko Lucka SLO 37.00 +
6 Ciavaldini Caroline FRA 35.00
7 Markovic Mina SLO 35.00 -
8 Kobayashi Yuka JPN 35.00 -
9 Anda Villanueva Irati ESP 24.00 -

Men

1 USOBIAGA LAKUNZA Patxi ESP 53.00 -
2 Julian Puigblanque Ramn ESP 52.00 -
3 Verhoeven Jorg NED 47.00
4 Crespi Flavio ITA 47.00 -
5 Fuselier Michal FRA 45.00
6 Midtboe Magnus NOR 45.00 -
7 Lachat Cdric SUI 44.00 +
8 Supper Gauthier FRA 44.00
9 Guerimand Flavien FRA 44.00 -
10 Lama David AUT 37.00
11 Dugit Fabien FRA 37.00 -
12 Romain Manuel FRA 36.00 -
13 Millet Sylvain FRA 35.00

(25.02.2005)
Today, on 25 February Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) yearly award will be presented in Grenoble, France.

All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.

In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

(17.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
16.02.2005
Hi, everybody!
Now it's 5 am on local time. We had to cease efforts to ascend Fitz Roy because of an objective danger of the route: a huge ice-fall hangs over the couloir and it's constantly under ice bombardment. We decided to change our plans and to climb Saint Exupery peak (2558m). We are going to start, summit and descend this day. The weather forecast is good for the first half of the day, but for the second is bad. We will try to work faster. Wish us good luck.
Cheerie-bye!

(16.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody.
Yesterday we descended in Chalten and in the very nick of time - got right into a global climbing party. The party was terrific and we had a great time. As always, Russian songs headed the bill. Alexander's singing already became a legend in Chalten. People recognize him in the street and almost nearly ask for an autograph.

Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in U on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.

After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.

Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.

For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.

Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.

Wish us of good luck.
Leonid, Alexander, Olga.

(11.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
10.02.2005
Hi! Having climbed the Mountain for two days we had to descend yesterday. We were too close to summit but got into a violent icefall right under the summit mushroom. Thank Heaven we are safe and sound but it was too dangerous there and decided to stop climbing and descend. Now we have a rest. We'll inform you about our further plans.
That's all on for today. Take care.

(7.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
08.02.2005
Hi everybody!
Yesterday we descended to El Chalten. Three days ago we hired horses and moved our base camp (150 kg!) in Camp-Bridwell. Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre is a very cosy camping area embowered in trees. A stunning view at Cerro Torre massif opens from there. There are a lot of aspiring Cerro Torre climbers and trekkers living there now. Weather was wonderful. However toward evening surprisingly beautiful clouds of fantastic colors and shapes reminding UFOs appeared in the sky. It's the typical sign of an impending storm.

At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.

Dean PotterA good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.

Tomas HuberTowards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.

Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.

Austrians & SashaThe ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".

As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.

Cerro Torre at dawnNow we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.

Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.

Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.

We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Alexander, Leonid, Olga.

(7.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
03.02.2005
Hi, everybody. Today we finally climbed up to Norwegian camp site. It took us rather much time.
People say that there is a bad weather forecast for the day after tomorrow and we do not know really what to do. We need two days to try for the summit.

Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.

(3.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
01.02.2005
Our greetings to everybody! Yesterday we reached Base Camp and homed in it. We found a lot of people there. Thomas Huber told us about his brother Alex Huber that had to left home because had wounded his eye (at least the story runs that). Weather has been standing magnificent for three days, and it hurts us that we arrived so late. We are afraid, that good weather will not hold for some days more and we will not have time to ascend. Tomorrow we are going to climb up to Norwegian camp site and , the day after tomorrow we plan to get the Col and if the weather is good we will make a summit push the next day.

That is all there is to it for today.

(1.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
29.01.
We flied almost lost-free. Only two backpacks with our belongings, sleeping bags, etc. and a tent were lost en route. But as people say money makes the mare go and we are going to buy needed gear in El Calafate where we will take off tomorrow.

And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.

We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

30.01.
Things are shaking down rapidly. They found Olga's backpack and delivered it. In an hour our plane departs to El Calafate. Our greetings to everybody.

Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.

As expected we bought all needed things in El Calafate. You can't pick and choose here because practically all the things sold there are made by one local company...

There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.

Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.

Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

 

 Ines PapertHarald Berger

(31.01.2005)
Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Ice Boulder Champions

In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.

Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/

 

 

www.planetmountain.com

(31.01.2005)
Kodar-2005
30.01.05.

The team successfully summited on January 29!
On January 29 the guys woke up early in the morning (4 a.m.) and started their summit bid. After they climbed the summit bastion and narrow rocky ridge, all the team reached the Kodar's summit at 9.00. Temperature was negative 43, but weather was breathless. That day all of them safe and sound descended to the base camp toward evening.

Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.

All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.

We congratulate and wait for the winners!

(26.01.2005)
Kodar-2005
26.01.05.
We have already climbed a half of the route. We abide by the schedule. On January 24 we made 3 pitches, it's a record for the present time. Yesterday we made only one pitch. Today two-man team of Dmitrienko and Tsyganov is next in turn to fix the rope on the route. In total, since 19 of January we made 13 pitches - it's approximately a half of the route. Yesterday the team in its full complement took off and now is making themselves at home in a tent settled in a small rocky niche that was found in the area of 12-th pitch.

We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.

Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.

We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.

Keep in touch with us!

24.01.05.
For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. In total 9 pitches are climbed. Firm granite, cold, ice-covered rocks. Today Prokof'ev and Belyanin are working. They have to find a convenient site for the first hanging camp. Temperature is negative 30.

(26.01.2005)
New world champions in ice-climbing. January, 21-22, The 2nd World Championships for Difficulty- and Speed Ice Climbing and the 1st Swiss Ice Climbing Masters in Difficulty and Speed, Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.

Results

Difficulty. Men

1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
2 ANTHAMATTEN Simon (Switzerland)
3 LEICHTFRIED Albert (Austria)

4 BENDLER Markus (Austria)
5 ANTHAMATTEN Samuel (Switzerland)
6 WANDELER Simon (Switzerland)
7 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
8 ODERMATT Urs (Switzerland)

Difficulty. Women

1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
2 PAPERT Ines (Germany)
3 MAUREAU Stephanie (France)

4 BUCHMANN Kirsten (Germany)
5 TORRETTA Anna (Italy)
6 EYER Alexandra (Switzerland)
7 FILIPPOVA Maryam (Russia)
8 SHABALINA Maria (Russia)

Speed. Men

1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
2 FAYZULLIN Igor (Russia)
3 CHVED Nikolai (Russia)

4 HOFER Lars (Switzerland)

Speed. Women

1 KOULIKOVA Natalia Russia
2 OLEINIKOVA Joulia Russia
3 TORRETTA Anna Italy

Photo: Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
www.planetmountain.com

(24.01.2005)
On Saturday January, 22, Sergey Borisov was killed in an automobile accident in Ekaterinburg. I do not know, what I can add any more. Suddenly I realized that I have nothing to say if it happens to my friends... because it is not right..

Sergey Borisov

Master of Sport of International Grade
For a long time he was the captain of Sport Club of Army of Ural military region.
He became four times champion of USSR, twice champion of Russia, numerous prize-winner of different national championships.

The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.

1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6).

1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".

1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".

2002 - Everest via Northern col.

2004 - Jannu North Face, summiter

(24.01.2005)
Kodar-2005

22.01.05
Everything is turning out well. We dug a cave and sorted out the problem of fire wood. Three two-man teams (Prokofiev-Belyaev, Dmitrienko-Tsyganov, Tsygankov - Cherezov) worked alternating on the route for 3 days and made 7 pitches. It became warmer a little, -20, snowfalls. The Wall is ice- and snow-covered.

21.01.05
It's snowing, temperature is -20. 5 pitches are made.

19.01.05
Kodar-2005. Nikolay Zakharov called: We continue to make our base camp more comfortable. There is a lot of snow. We clear away the beaten track to the wall. It's -35. Our greetings to everybody!

(24.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
20.01
Till the end this expedition was very hard
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than - 40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue. We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the jeeps to Kathmandu.

The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things.. In the evening he didnt come back to BC and we was very worry. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night.

The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have.). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long..

The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!

Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.

P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence first winter Summit as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray

 

Svetlana Boldykova(24.01.2005)
From January 15-23, 2005 the 2005 Snowboard World Championships took place in Whistler, Canada.
On January 18 Russians sportsmen showed good results: at Women's Parallel Giant Slalom (PGS - Olympic discipline) Svetlana Boldykova became the second, Ekaterina Tudigescheva - the forth and at Men's Parallel Giant Slalom Denis Salagaev was the ninth.

On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.

And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.

 

 

(24.01.2005)
Ines Papert breaks record in Ouary Ice Park, USA
Igor Ivashura, CYKHAX ENT, Munich, informs:
This girl just went and did that left behind all the monsters of ice-climbing and showed the best result among men and women on the tenth annual "Ouary Ice Festival" (USA)!!!

Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.

The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.

Ines's result is really unique.

The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"

Total report

Men
1 22:47 WILL GADD
2 23:10 HARRY BERGER
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
5 20:20 ALJAZ ANDERJLE
6 14:13 JARED OGDEN
7 18:52 SEAN HUISMAN
8 15:45 RICH PURNELL
9 10:40 DALE REMSBERG
10 17:59 SONNIE TROTTER
11 13:28 VINCE ANDERSON
12 12:19 LOUIS JULIENNE ROY
13 16:42 ADAM STACK
14 6:50 RYAN NELSON
Women
1 19:53 INES PAPERT ALL ALL
2 14:05 KIRSTEN BUCHMANN
3 20:10 AUDREY GARIEPY
4 16:14 ANNA TORRETTA
5 13:53 SUE NOTT
6 14:54 KRISTIE AREND
7 10:15 ISABELLE SANTOIRE
8 11:35 SHELLY HUISMAN
9 8:50 ABBY WATKINS

Photo - www.bergsteigen.at

(21.01.2005)
Georgian Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Film Festival N I A M O R I
In January-March 2005, in Georgia (former Soviet Union) Tbilisi will host the second annual Mountain Film Festival Niamori
Details

 

(19.01.2005)
Kodar-2005
18.01.05 Zakharov called from base camp:
16.01 The bad weather was.
17.01 We finally got to the area of ascent. The gorge is so narrow that the helicopter could not find any convenient site to land and we were dropped in deep snow from a hovering helicopter.

The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.

Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.

Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!

14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall

(18.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
18.01
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to take all our equipment and transport to the village that is 25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring for the sun....

Portfolio

 

(17.01.2005)
"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
15.01
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.

One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

(14.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
14.01
Summit!
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15. We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing we summited.

This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...


13.01
Simone and Piotr reached the col and put up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers!...

Simone and Piotr

(14.01.2005)
Petites Jorasses. First free climbing "Omega" route Britons Nick Bullock and Stuart MacAleese became the third team climbed historical Patrick "Gab" Gabarrou's and Ferran Latorre's route "Omega" on Petites Jorasses (Mt. Blanc), (700m, VI/5+,A3).

It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.

http://desnivel.com/

 

(14.01.2005)
Ice-climbing. Jenny Lavarda and Hannes Pfeifhofer are the champions of Italy
The second stage of the Italian Ice-climbing championship "ITALIAN ALPINE CUP" finished at the last weekend in Val Passiria .
At men having got over all the grandees and merited runners as Bubu Mauro Bole and Herbert Klammer Hannes Pfeifhofer, a 18-year climber, unexpectedly won the gold.
Jenny Lavarda, having switched off from rock-climbing on ice in this winter season, took part at such events for the first time and won by a head. Silvia Cian is the second and Monica Gemelli- the third.

http://www.planetmountain.com/

 

 

(14.01.2005)
GRANDES JORASSES. Linceul (4208m). Winter solo
Ferran Martnez is the Spanish climber soloed the "great classics" of GRANDES JORASSES: Linceul. Some days later his climb was repeated by other Spanish climber Eloi Callado.

http://desnivel.com/

 

 

(14.01.2005)
The fifth summit under the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter" has been climbed
Sergey Shchepachkov informs:

On January, 9, 2005 a team of climbers (Ivan Artemov, Ivan Alentsev, Victor Afanasyev, Andrey Bukin, and Oleg Bibin) summited Mt. Kazbek (5033m) within the framework of the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter".
Weather during the ascent held ideal. I got cold and had to stop climbing and left the team during the summit push. Proshchenko Maxim and Grishnjachy Leonid had to abandon the team too. The route line went from Northern Ossetia side, through Genaldonskoe gorge via Pastukhova route.

(14.01.2005)
"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
12.01
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.

 

 

(13.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
12.01
All the night the wind shook the tents and it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud, showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col...

Simone and Piotr

(12.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
11.01
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC (5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going up.

The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...

Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!

(11.01.2005)
"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
10.01
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.

 

(11.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
10.01
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!. The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult to be...

We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.

09.01
Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek that still were in C1.

Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....

08.01
Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till 7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek "sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe make already a first summit attempt....

Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?

07.01
Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise well and also using that point as the starting point for the summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40 degree and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope till C1.

Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend

05.01
The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.

Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550 m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.

Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.

04.01
The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold, today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600 m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind... but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get the first technical problem.

Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...

01.01.2005
Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.

Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...

We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...

31.12
After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible. So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base camp (log way....)

Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...

Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.

On the way to C1(31.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
30.12
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac, below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp I. The altitude is about 6550.

Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.

Ciao, Simone

(27.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
24.12
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32 yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.

Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.

We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!

base camp

Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek

(22.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
22.12
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry 40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA. Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather is still good even the temperature went down in compare of one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team

21.12
I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead, I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages. We're sentries up here

We arrived in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.

A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.

The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible
Bye, Simone

Translation by Jonathan Etes

(17.12.2004)
German TOP-climbers Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz did not sustained the most severe gale-force wind and bailed their first ascent Murallon, North face, (Patagonia).

Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.

www.robert-jasper.de

(15.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma.
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.

Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.

In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra stupid discussion.

Simone, Darek, Piotr

(14.12.2004)
On 12 December Jean-Christophe Lafaille returned to the base camp after his challenge summit (on December 11) Shishapangma.

It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.

The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com

 

 

 

(7.12.2004)
International calendar for ice-climbing competitions, 2005 season

 

 

 

 

MRAZEK Tomas
CHABOT Alexandre
PETRENKO Maxim
 EITER Angela
SARKANY Muriel
SHALAHINA Olha

(24.11.2004)
World Cup 2004 Top-10

Men
1. MRAZEK Tomas CZE 560.00
2. CHABOT Alexandre FRA 516.00
3. CRESPI Flavio ITA 333.00
4. PETRENKO Maxim UKR 322.00

5. USOBIAGA Patxi ESP 317.00
6. POUVREAU Grome FRA 291.00
7. MILLET Sylvain FRA 268.00
8. FUSELIER Mickael FRA 249.00
9. VERHOEVEN Jorg NED 248.00
10. PUIGBLANQUE Ramn Julin ESP 240.00

Women
1. EITER Angela AUT 535.00
2. SARKANY Muriel BEL 525.00
3. EYER Alexandra SUI 364.00

4. GROS Natalija SLO 364.00
5. CIAVALDINI Caroline FRA 356.00
6. SCHPF Bettina AUT 345.00
7. LAVARDA Jenny ITA 299.00
8. VIDMAR Maja SLO 287.00
9. CUFAR Martina SLO 286.00
10. SHALAHINA Olha UKR 245.00

(22.11.2004)
World Cup. Latest Stage. Kranj, SLO

Men
1. Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
2. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov (RUS)
3. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

Women
1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
2. Natalija Gros (SLO)
3-4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
3-4. Sandrine Levet (FRA)

(16.11.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Winter
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.

After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp.

Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.

Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch

About expedition

(15.11.2004)
UIAA Worldcup Difficulty Event Brno (CZE) 2004. Results.
The Winners - Flavio CRESPI, Italy, and Alexandra EYER, Switzerland. At men Tomas MRAZEK, CZE, and Alexandre CHABOT, France, are the second and the third accordingly. And at women the Russian Olga SHALAGINA (!!!) is the second and Maja VIDMAR, Slovenia is the third.

See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de

 

(11.11.2004)
Fred Rouhling opens his new line Mandallaz drive, 9
Fred Rouhling has just declared about his successful redpoint of the new project in d'Allonzier la Caille - Mandallaz drive, 9.
In 1993 only lazy did not mock Fred when he declared the first French 9, Hugh line. However in 2001, 8 (!) years later, the category was confirmed by Italian climber Alessandro Lamberti.
1995 "Practically everyone in this world had to doubt of his judiciousness" - It is about Fred Rouhling and his challenging Akira, 9b. Do you really think the world delightfully looked into his eyes?
1997 l'Autre Cote du Ciel (The other side of the sky), the second 9, sent by Fred. Then everything went without any autographs....
3d "9a" of Fred was Fred Nicole's "bain de sang"
2004 Mandallaz drive, 9. Who would doubt... Go, Fred! :)

http://kairn.com

(11.11.2004)
INTERNATIONAL CALENDAR FOR SKI MOUNTAINEERING COMPETITIONS 2004- 2005 SEASON

(9.11.2004)
Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton
On October 5, the two climbed six new pitches, totaling about 1,000 feet of thin ice and mixed climbing. The new route, which is unnamed, started just left of the classic North Face route and ended at the Hossack-McGowan Couloir, which they followed to the East Ridge and eventually reached the summit.
The crux was found on the second pitch, where unprotectable ice forced Koch into a soaking-wet, womb-like feature behind the ice until he could bust through and pull a roof to easier ground. He spent the next belay wringing out his clothes and pouring water out of his boots. A sudden storm then dumped buckets of graupel, which cascaded down the face in one of the most spectacular sights I have witnessed in the mountains, Koch said. When the storm stopped, they continued upward through four more good pitches of ice, including a winding WI 5 pitch that Koch called the nicest ice pitch he has ever done on a mountain route.

http://climbing.com

(4.11.2004)
Rating of rock-climbers - the world leaders. Bouldering. Speed. Difficulty
In bouldering and speed the sportmen have been already put in their places, "all sweets" are given away, in difficulty there are two events more ahead...

UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004

Bouldering

Women
1. Sandrine Levet, France
2. Olga Bibik, Russia
3. Julia Abramchuk, Russia

Men
1. Daniel Dulac, France
2. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
3. Jerome Meyer, France

Speed

Women
1. Tatyana Ruyga, Russia
2. Anna Saulevich, Russia
3. HENDRAWATI Agung Ethi, INA

Men
1. Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
2. Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky, Russia
3. Alexander Peshehonov, Russia

Difficulty. The current rating

Women
1. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
2. Angela Eiter, Austria
3. Bettina Schopf, Austria

Men
1. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
2. Alexandre Chabot, France
3. Gerome Pouvreau, France

All results http://digitalrock.de

(2.11.2004)
Rock Climbing. World Cup in Valence, France. Difficulty.
The winners

Men
1. CHABOT Alexandre FRA
2. Bindhammer Christian Germany
3. MRAZEK Tomas CZE
4. FUSELIER Micha FRA
5. AUCLAIR Fran FRA
Women
1. Muriel Sarkany Belgium
2. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
2. CUFAR Martina SLO
4. Jenny Lavarda ITA
5. Angela Eiter AUT

The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.

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