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Valery Babanov. Peak Meru, Himalaya, 2001
SMS from Valery. October 5th, 2:23
It was raining yesterday. We staied in base camp.

SMS from Sergey. October 5th, 10:54
Today we will have a night at 5 800 m. Tomorrow we climb pik Meru to have acclimatization. The height of it is 6300.

Source: Valery Babanov



Our Base camp near North Face of Jannu lost far in Himalaya mountains is today 5 days old.
The summit is impressed! Base camp situated on the 4 700 meters height. The North Face is miracle but not horrible. I can not believe that we are near the mountain I dreamed so long time. We want to stay on the top of this beauty so much. One can talk about the summit a lot but when looking at it here feel difference – it is more then we could expect.

After we opened BC in October 1st, making pudgia, the weather left stable. 3 days we did not have any rains. It is warm, grass and flowers in base camp. Yesterday me and my partner Sergey Kofanov reached 5 800 meters to have acclimatization. Today the rest time. Tomorrow we plan to have a new acclimatization if the weather let us do it. We’d like to ascent the nearest summit – 6 300 meters and maybe we have a night on the summit.

We choose finally our route line. The absolutely new on the West ridge. This ridge limited the North Face of Jannu on the right. It is always good view of it on many photos.

In 95-98 years French climbers tried to make this route but unsuccessful. This is a beautiful line. Something seemed like Makalu West ridge and Nuptse south-east ridge. This is a kind of routes one always would like to climb. I think this is ideal line for us. We feel good and plan to climb in alpine style. If Gods and Mountain allow us we reach the Jannu summit for sure. That’s all for now, Watch news Valery

Source: Valery Babanov

Babanov-Kofanov. Jannu (7710m) North Face: in a two-man team & alpine style. Opening of base camp. The wall is snow-crowned.


Today was the opening day of the exhibition our BC with puja - a traditional Buddhist ceremony to ask the gods for protection and permission to climb. Weather remains unstable, rain interchanges with snowing. The entire wall is snow-crowned. Tomorrow we set off for acclimatization climb.


SMS from Sergey Kofanov:

"The disposition is the same, unless rain changed snowing. Visibility is still zero. We are sitting in 500 meters from the wall, but have not seen the Mountain yet. There is nothing to do but just sit and act Grand Slam playing cards...

On September 30 we made an acclimatization climb up to 5300m".


Dhaulagiri Ski Expedition. The sun is shining over Dhaulagiri again after six days of snowfall.

Finally the sun is shining over Dhaulagiri again after six days of snowfall. The snow shovelling has been changed into coffee drinking and my sight has turned towards the summit.

It’s incredible how the mood changes with the weather. When the sun is shining I’m happy and when it’s snowing I’m sad. During the last week my mood has been bouncing up and down like a ball. With ten days of good weather and good acclimating climbs everything looked great and my confidence was on top. Then it started snowing and the days went by without any change. More and more snow was piling up outside my tent. After six days of continuously snowfall and with my tent disappearing behind the snow walls most of my thoughts were negative. I started thinking about how to get out the valley to go home instead of thinking of how to get up the mountain. Sunday morning I woke up to a blue sky and sunshine over the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri. In an instant my mood changed and I was forming plans for the summit push. It’s interesting what a bit of sunshine can do.

Tomorrow Tuesday I will leave base camp together with Austrians Andreas and Lawrence and Edvin and Tomas from Holland to try to make it up to Camp 1. We will leave early in the morning to be able to walk on top of the frozen snow and hopefully we will reach C1 before it’s too hot. According to the Korean climber Kim, who came down from C1 yesterday, all the tents are covered by snow. So I guess there will be a bit of digging to find my tent that I left up there on my last visit.

If conditions and weather are good I will continue up towards C2 and C3 the following days. Very early Friday morning I will put the skis on my backpack, leave my tent in C3 and start climbing towards the summit of Dhaulagiri.

Fredrik’s partners: Dynastar, Osprey, Adidas Eyewear. Supporters: Grivel, Giro, Ortovox, Dynafit, Therm-Ic, Himaya, Duracell, Loben Expeditions and Jamtport. More information

All photos (number: 3)

Dhaulagiri Ski Expedition Update 4. Puja, Fixed ropes and Acclimatisation

The weather is good and time flies by here in Nepal. Life in base camp (BC) is simple and easy going, mostly focused on food. After three days in BC I went up and had my first taste of Dhaulagiri, The White Mountain.

Since I arrived in BC the weather has been very nice and stable, lots of sunshine and not much wind. To climb an 8000-meter peak you need to spend a lot of time getting used to the altitude, acclimating as it’s called.
When I had my tent, our toilet tent and all my gear sorted out I was ready to check out the mountain and start acclimating.

The mountains here in Nepal are sacred and the Buddhist people believe that the god’s live in the mountains. Therefore, before you begin climbing you have to do a ceremony that is called Puja to show your respect to the God’s. The Nepalese people here in BC built a Chorten (Buddhist monument) out of rocks and attached to it was prayer flags in four directions. On top of the Chorten was a photo of The Dalai Lama and offerings like rice, cookies, chocolate bars etc. The ceremony was held by Buddhist monk who was singing and saying prayers as we threw rice towards the Chorten. After the Puja you have permission from the god’s to set your foot on their mountain and you have their support during your climb.

Summer has been hard on Dhaulagiri. It’s very dry on the lower slopes and the snow level is around 5500 meters. The first part of the climb is a cracked up glacier that is called the icefall. The Serac’s (ice pillars) in the icefall are regularly falling and making a brumming noise giving us climbers something to fear. You don’t want to be anywhere near the Serac falls therefore the climbing route goes on the right hand side of the ice fall, on the lower parts of a big rock wall. Without snow on this part it’s a mix of sand, rocks, and ice. Horrible, if you ask me. After that you walk on a flat glacier for a bit until it gets steeper up to the northeast pass of Dhaulagiri where you’ll find camp 1 (C1), at around 5700 meters. Apart from the sandbox in the beginning the terrain is fairly easy with only a few hairy crevasses (cracks in the glacier) to cross. My first time on the mountain was a long struggle to get up to C1, where I spent the night. It took me six and a half hours to climb the 1000 vertical meters up to camp and during the night I didn’t sleep much due to an evil headache. That didn’t give me much confidence for the future. The next day I went back down to base camp.

Everyday life in base camp is simple but comfortable. I have my own tent where I sleep and keep my clothing and gear. In our kitchen tent chef Budhi and his assistant Kansha are serving breakfast, lunch and dinner every day. It’s like having my mom here in camp. All I have to do is to show up to get an excellent meal. Other than that there is time to read books, listen to music and cruise around visiting the other climbers.

The climbers that are here this year to climb Dhaulagiri are a big Japanese team with about thirteen climbers, including six Climbing Sherpa’s (Nepalese porters), a Dutch-Austrian team with four climbers and one Korean climber with his two climbing Sherpa’s. In the last few days a French team and a Polish team has arrived as well. It’s a good mix of people and we‘re having a good time.

The Japanese team has hired Sherpa’s to fix ropes on the mountain making the climbing safer and easier. The ropes are fixed along almost the whole climbing route. I heard a figure of 2800 meters of rope only up to camp 1. Personally, I think it takes away some of the exploratory experience you get from climbing a mountain. It has one positive thing though, if you follow the ropes you will never get lost.

The second time on the mountain I slept one night in C1 before I climbed up a gentle snow slope towards the northeast ridge. On the ridge it got steeper and there were a few crevasses to cross on the way to C2 at 6500 meters. After having dinner with a view of an amazing sunset on the Annapurna Mountains I tucked myself down in to my thick sleeping bag to get some rest. My sleep that night was disrupted by yet another evil headache. During the days I feel fine but during the nights the nasty “high altitude man” is giving me a few punches in the head. To get the most out of this acclimating trip I climbed up the ridge to about 6900 meters before turning around and heading back down to C2. I spent a second night in C2 feeling a bit better and the next day I skied down to C1. It started with cautious turns in powder on the steep ridge and went big cruising turns in sugar snow on the slopes down towards C1. It was an amazing experience to ski on the slopes of Dhaulagiri with mountains like Annapurna and Nilgiri in the background. Felt good to finally get some skiing after some weeks of transportation.

Now I’m back in base camp and I will stay here for three to four days to rest before I go up again. I’m feeling well acclimated so next time I will aim for the summit. If everything goes as planned, the weather is good and I’m in good shape, I will summit Dhaulagiri at the end of the month. Looking forward to more skiing.

For more info about Fredrik and the Dhaulagiri Expedition check out his website

Fredrik’s partners: Dynastar, Osprey, Adidas Eyewear. Supporters: Grivel, Giro, Ortovox, Dynafit, Therm-Ic, Himaya, Duracell, Loben Expeditions and Jämtport.

All photos (number: 2)

"Sharf" - New Boulder World Champion!

Mens' results :

1 Sharafutdinov Dmitriy 1986 RUS
2 Stranik Martin 1990 CZE
3 Lachat Cedric 1984 SUI
4 Julien Stephane 1977 FRA
5 Son Sang-Won 1982 KOR
6 Dulac Daniel 1976 FRA

Full results (men)...

Womens' Results :

1 Stohr Anna 1988 AUT
2 Noguchi Akiyo 1989 JPN
3 Bibik Olga 1976 RUS
4 Abramchuk Yulia 1982 RUS
5 Danion Juliette 1981 FRA
6 Tuzhylina Svitlana 1982 UKR

Full results (women)...

Climbing World Championship 2007 (Lead, Bouldering, Sped - Aviles, Spain. Bouldering Qualification contest. While we were working, drinking or visiting galleries yesterday Spain's Aviles became the theatre of the a stiff battle in bouldering qualification.

Not all to the last Russian have got qualified.

There it goes!



Frenchmen in Garwhal. Changabang (6864m). Expedition is up and running...

Well, expedition is up and running. Our small team come forward Garwhal. On September, 14 we left Delhi and the next afternoon safely reached up to Joshimath, a small small town in the Central Garwhal of about some thousand souls in population.

The things were rather tiresome in Delhi: buying food, running for a permit (without success this time: probably we should come back here again and Yannick is our volunteer to do that).

We found Joshimath very lively and noisy. And this is because of a local festival there. Everything appeared very nice.

While we are waiting for a local a climbing permit for Arwa Tower: it was Sunday yesterday, today is Monday but festival, - everywhere Ambushes.
Nevertheless we hope to get to Badrinath tomorrow evening and then to have a day-trip to Arwa Tower (6300m) foot for acclimatization climbs during 10 days..
Then we will come back in Joshimath and further head to Changabang/Kalanka/Dunagiri/Tirsuli/Hardeol (all the peaks are 6800-7200 meters*).

Our greetings and kisses for all of you, Christian Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani, Vanessa and Carolina

How should you climb "9a+": learning lessons from Dave Graham

Do you want to see how Dave Graham bagged the 4th ascent of Chris Sharma's masterpiece "Biographie/realization", 9a + ?

Look here...

World championship in Spain. First news from Julia Abramchuk

On September, 19
"Ocean, sun, penthouse, beauty...
After Lead qualification contest it seems only Maks Petrenko and Valery Kryukov qualified for the semifinal. All the Russian girls except for Katya Korol'kova got into the semifinal.
Bouldering-climbers all the day long were mooning around the gym and driving somewhere. Tomorrow - qualification in Bouldering"

Julia Abramchuk

Qualification results



Nilgiri, just another mountain on the Dhaulagiri trek
Headache and Donkey dung

After the spectacular flight from Pokhara to Jomsom and a short walk to Marpha my two companions Budhi and Kansha and I started the three days trek towards Dhaulagiri Base Camp. Leaving Marpha at 2670 meters we headed up the trail on steep grassy slopes gaining altitude quickly. According to Budhi, that has done this trek a couple of times before, our camp for the night was supposed to be at 3600 meters and it would take about 3-4 hours to get there. That sounded good to me. I didn’t want to go too far since I’ve been battling a flew for the last few days and didn’t feel very strong. After about three and a half hours we came up to a couple of stone houses on a nice grass field. It reminded me of the sheep herder huts in the Alps. That was a perfect camp site I thought but Budhi had something else in mind. -It’s time for lunch, he said.
We sat down and took out our lunch package that we had brought. It was made up of Chapatti with a sliced boiled egg on top, a package of crackers and a chocolate bar. As we dug into our food Budhi pointed to the top of the hill that was at least 500 vertical meters higher up and said: -That’s camp. We didn’t go all the way to the top but set camp about halfway, which I was happy for. Budhi’s brother Kansha that is carrying a huge and heavy wooden basket, full of kitchen stuff, strapped on top of his head, also looked happy that was the end of the day.
Alongside us on the trek we had around 30 donkeys carrying gear for us and other expeditions going to Dhaulagiri. They do a good job with the loads but they also do a good job spreading their dung. They go as they like and that might be on the 50 cm wide trail or all over our camp sites.

Second day of the trek was a feast in beautiful views. The higher we got the more spectacular the surrounding mountains became. We had Nilgiri, on the other side of the valley, behind us and after about an hour of uphill the stunning view of Tukuche Peak and Dhaulagiri came into sight on our left hand side. The more than 1000 meters higher Dhaulagiri looked disappointingly small compared to the much closer located Tukuche from that angle. Going around the northern side of Tukuche Peak we lost sight of Dhaulagiri but saw the sun set behind its brother peak Dhaulagiri 3 as we pitched our tents in camp.
During that day we walked for eight hours, climbed over the 5250 meter high Dhampus pass and gained more than a thousand vertical meters. At that altitude it’s a quite long day but the only worry I had was at what shutter speed I would set the camera to get good photos. And I guess watching out where I put my feet so I didn’t step into donkey dung. I wonder if Budhi and Kansha were enjoying the view as much as I was or if it’s just another day at work for them. They sure smiled as much as I did.

Unfortunately we didn’t reach our camp in the Hidden Valley before the donkeys had spread their shit all over the place. During the night I got a headache that was growing heavier and heavier leaving me with only a few hours of sleep. I’m definitely blaming the donkeys for my headache and not that I had ascended too fast to 5000 meters.

The final day of the trek was a four hour walk on rocky and uneven moraine with the high point of The French Pass at 5360 meters. My headache from the night before slowly disappeared with my growing excitement as we closed in on our final destination, The Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

I have now settled down in our camp at 4780 meters. I have built a nice platform for my tent that is going to be my home for the next month, taken my first shower in five days and I’m enjoying Budhi’s excellent food. All is good and I’m eager to head up the mountain.

For more info about Fredrik and the Dhaulagiri Expedition check out his website

Fredrik’s partners: Dynastar, Osprey, Adidas Eyewear.
Supporters: Grivel, Giro, Ortovox, Dynafit, Therm-Ic, Himaya, Duracell, Loben Expeditions and Jämtport.

Photos: Fredrik Ericsson

All photos (number: 2)

Page of the expedition
Date update: 17.09.2007
Big Wall - Russian Way. Kyzyl-Asker peak (5600m) Southeast face. Summit!

Odintsov's team reached the summit on September 14 about 16.00. Then the guys descended to their summit bivy and the next day is going to descend. The details will be soon after the climbers come back to BC.

Fredrik Ericsson. Dhaulagiri Ski Expedition. Update 2 2007-09-10

On the road, again!

After a week in Kathmandu things have finally started moving here. With a smile on my face I’m on my way to the mountains.

It all changed last Friday after a few days of grumpy me. I was close to exploding of anger believing that the airline had lost my skis and climbing gear. I had started working on plan B: finding gear in Kathmandu, so that this wouldn’t be the end of the trip. Most of the climbing gear and clothing was possible to gather from friends and shops. Skis were more difficult, at least there was nothing from the 21st Century to be found.
I asked myself, is it safe to go to Dhaulagiri with the gear that I’ve found here? I didn’t have to answer that question.
Friday morning I went on one of our routine trips to the airport to look for the ski bag. The man at the lost baggage desk, that I was sure couldn‘t say anything else than “Bag not found”, said something different this time. Bag is here! I didn’t believe him first until I saw a man dragging my ski bag towards us. All my gear was right in front of me after a weeks detour. In a second I was a changed man, all the anger was gone and I couldn’t stop smiling.

Having sorted out the gear problem I got on the bus for the six hours ride to Pokhara where I was met by a massive rain. I guess the monsoon is not quite over yet. Walking back to my hotel from a restaurant in the evening was like walking in a shallow creek. It was water all over the place. I had one day of sightseeing in Pokhara and went on a boat ride on the Fewa lake, visited the Peace Stupa and the Devi’s waterfall.

Sunday morning I got up early and went to the airport to catch the flight to Jomsom. Ghorka Air took me along for a mind blowing experience. As the small propeller plane rose through the clouds we were in the middle of an anfi-theatre of beautiful peaks. The Machhapuchhare, also called the fish tail mountain, the four Annapurna’s and Nilgiri to mention a few. Last but not least I got the first glimpse of Dhaulagiri. That was a great feeling.

In Jomsom Budhi, that will be my cook in base camp, and his brother was waiting for me. They’ve been trekking in three days from a town called Beni with the food, gas canisters and all the rest of the gear that couldn’t be taken on the plane. As soon as I got my bags we left Jomsom and walked the one and half hours down the valley to a town called Marpha and the Snow Leopard Lodge were we were going to spend the night.

Monday the trek towards base camp will start. It’s a serious trek going over two passes (Dhampus and French pass) that are higher than 5000 meters. If everything goes as planned we will reach Dhaulagiri base camp (4700m) on Wednesday.

For more info about Fredrik and the Dhaulagiri Expedition check out his website

Fredrik’s partners: Dynastar, Osprey, Adidas Eyewear. Supporters: Grivel, Giro, Ortovox, Dynafit, Therm-Ic, Himaya, Duracell, Loben Expeditions and Jämtport.

8467 – A happy Fredrik with his ski bag at the Kathmandu airport
8658 – First view of Dhaulagiri through the window of the plane.

All photos (number: 2)

Club "Climbers of 30 years and upward". 8b from Jibe Tribout

The 46-year living free-climbing legend, frenchman Jean Baptiste Tribout keeps up the speed supporting hopes and motivation of all aged climbers :) This summer Jean Baptiste has redpointed up to 8b and flashed 8a.

British expedition: first ascent in Chinese Xinjiang

On July 25 a British expedition set up base camp at 4500 meters on the Kuksay Glacier in Chinese Xinjiang. And in early August the team of John Allen, David Barker, Joe Howard and Richard Taylor made the first ascent via the line marked on the north face of Yilpiz (5313m) that rises from the Kuksay Glacier basin immediately east of Muztagh Ata in Chinese Xinjiang (TD, Scottish III, 60 degrees, 10 roped pitches).

Dhaulagiri Ski Expedition Update 1


Missed flight and a lost bag!

Finally the trip has started. I’m on my way to Dhaulagiri, the 8167 meter high mountain in Nepal to climb and ski. I must admit that the trip could have started better. I left Chamonix last Wednesday and flew from Geneva in Switzerland to Doha in Qatar. That part went smoothly. I was in time, the flight was on time and I didn’t have to pay for any excess weight for my big and heavy ski bag with all my ski and climbing gear.

In Qatar my luck changed. I had three hours until my flight for Kathmandu was leaving. That was plenty of time I thought so I strolled around the airport, checked the internet and listened to a book on my mp3 player. Not at all thinking of the one hour time difference between Europe and Qatar I arrived at the gate when the plane had already left. Fortunately for me they let me rebook on the next flight without charge. Not so fortunate, the next flight to Kathmandu was 24 hours later. By now I know the Doha airport quite well. I do not recommend the restaurants.

Friday morning I arrived in Kathmandu and after a bit of queuing to get visa I walked over to the baggage belt to pick up my bags. My duffel bag was there, but my ski bag was nowhere to be found. In that bag I have my skis, poles, crampons, ice axes and down clothing: the gear that I need to be able to go up in the mountains. Without it I might as well take a flight to a beach resort and go swimming.

After filing a report for my lost bag and checking in at the hotel my Nepalese friend Loben took me sightseeing in Kathmandu. We visited the touristy shopping quarters of Thamel, Bouddhanath, the sacred Buddhist stupa and the Hindu temple of Pashupatinath. Kathmandu is a big city with millions of people and it seems that everyone has a car or a motorcycle.
It also seems that they have a competition where the one that honks the horn the most wins. Even though the city is a bit too stressful for me, it offers a lot to see and if you get out of the tourist traps the people are very friendly.

I first met Loben in 2004 when I was in Tibet to climb and ski my first 8000-meter peak, Shisha Pangma. Loben runs a company called Loben Expeditions that is organizing anything from short treks to big expeditions all over the Himalayas. If you’re interested in a great experience in the mountains of Nepal, Tibet or India you should talk to Loben. On my Shisha Pangma Expedition as well as my ongoing Dhaulagiri Expedition Loben has made all the arrangements with climbing and trekking permits, base camp staff and all logistics in Nepal. To find out more about his services you can check out his website:

Hanging out with Loben and his friends I’ve found out that a Nepalese guy is competing in the TV show “India’s Idol”. He’s one of only three remaining so it’s getting big here in Nepal. What can be better evening entertainment than watching India’s Idol?
I guess if I could understand what they are saying.

I take full credit for missing the flight, but the lost bag I must give that to Qatar Airways. They have put in a great effort to lose a big ski bag.
Now it has been four days since I arrived in Nepal and still no news about my ski bag. Until I get my gear I’m stuck here in Kathmandu and I can only hope that the bag arrives soon.

All photos (number: 3)

Page of the expedition
Date update: 17.09.2007
Big Wall - Russian Way. Kyzyl-Asker peak (5600m) Southeast face. The team started the climb.

The area is so distant that the guys can make communication only by phone and sms. So we are precluded from an opportunity to hear Odintsov's and Bakin's expressive comments.

Only the facts: the team started the climb in clear weather and favorable forecast.

Doctor Bakin reports that all are healthy.

Sergey Bogomolov Ê2: Well, that's about... The mountain has made the choice

In the morning Maksut informed, that they need 1,5 hours to take off the camp and then they will start to descend.
At 12.00 the guys reached camp 5 (8200m). There was radio blackout and finally the battery ran down. At 14.00 we heard only "Everything is OK", but did not understand their location. In camp 4 or lower? When staying below you always worry more than when you are above. They are doing everything properly, but very slowly. You go absolutely empty. Every three steps down alternate with rest. Already at evening communication Vasily (having warmed a portable radio set) told, that they are in camp 4 and all of them are safe and sound and without getting frost bitten. The weather spoiled. It's snowing at high altitude and it’s raining in BC.

Well, that's all. The mountain has made the choice. On evening communication the guys informed, that they defaulted.
I try to drive away poignant pain in my heart. It wounds me like a knife. Our struggle was fair, but the series of bastions exhausted our guys: they spent three nights at 8400 and came to the end of their tether trying to find the way up to the summit. Now, at 20.00, they are engaged in searches of survival, trying to light off a torch at this altitude.

We are climbing on not on "classics". The couloit icefall is very prone to avalanches! We chose our finish variant via the rocky terrain. But here, just it is a lot of questions. Have reached roughly up to 8200 and set a tent under the rocky bastion. Then lefted gear and fixed ropes.
I always wanted to fill "summit flags" of the 100 km/h cold wind.

It is true that the nature wins. I with my sore throat can not stay under such storm wind at this altitude and it forces me to descend promptly.
Due to his health Puchinin headed downwards too. And that is our only resort for duo Pivtsov-Zhumaev. They climbed up the point we had reached yesterday. But the weather is going to worsen.

Thank God: the forecast can mistake sometimes.
We have a normal day. Though there ain't silences there! (8300m)! The guys are fighting on the rocks.
There was a fall and a hung. But there is not summit prospect and that fact oppresses. The last forces thaw. We he clench our hands into hard fists.

Tennis on Top of Cho-Oyu (8201)

September 11 “7Summits Club – Alpindustria” expedition is leaving for Nepal under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. The aim is to climb the sixth highest mountain in the world. Classic route from Tibet side.
In expedition take part Russian Tennis star Marat Safin.

Expedition members:
Alex Abramov – guide and leader (9 Himalayan expeditions, 2 times Everest Summiteer, Cho-Oyu Summiteer)
Dmitry Moskalev – co-leader (5 Himalayan expeditions, Everest and Xixapangma Summiteer)
Alexander Chesnokov – co-leader assistant
Yury Beloivan
Konstantin Zhelezov
Igor Kosarev
Evgeny Semenov
Marat Safin – Russian Tennis Star

For Marat Safin this is the 1st mountain in his life Hopefully to his many victories in tennis Marat will add one more victory on the 6th highest mountain in the world.

On the foto
Left to right
Yuri Beloivan – expedition member
Alex Abramov – expedition leader
Ludmila Korobeshko – mountain guide
Marat Safin – expedition member
During buying equipment for Cho-Oyu in “Alpindustria” shop in Moscow

All photos (number: 1)

Page of the expedition
Date update: 17.09.2007
Big Wall - Russian Way. Kyzyl-Asker peak (5600m) Southeast face: Independence Day in Kirghizia. The helicopter under the wall is postponed on September 3. There is Independence Day in Kirghizia. The helicopter under the wall is postponed on September 3.

We have a thunder-storm and cloudy sky. But have already made two training ascents.

Good news. On a good day a trio Klenov-Davy-Shabunin has opened a new route on Shingu Charpa. "We climbed a new route in 24 days and now we are in Skardu. Tomorrow we fly to Islamabad. 37 pitches, max 7a/A3, but that means nothing because the line appeared more difficult than any route each of us has climbed before. We named it " Never more ".
Dhaulagiri Ski Expedition 2007

  In the end of August Swedish extreme skier Fredrik Ericsson is going to Nepal to try to make the first ever ski descent of the 8167-meter high mountain Dhaulagiri , the seventh highest mountain in the world.

To succeed with his goal Fredrik has a long and adventurous journey ahead of him. During the six weeks in Nepal he will travel through the country, experience its culture and food, fight to stay healthy and last but not least he will climb and ski one of the highest mountains in the world.

- Dhaulagiri will be a fight against thin air, cold temperatures and strong wind. On top of that there is more than 3000 meters to climb and skiing steep and exposed terrain. All that makes this an exciting adventure, says Fredrik.

Normally the highest mountains in the Himalayas are climbed by big teams that are using sherpas (porters) to carry all the equipment and food to the camps that are spread out along the route up the mountain. Many of the climbers are also using bottled oxygen to reach the summit. When Fredrik is going to climb the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, he's doing it different. He climbs on his own, without bottled oxygen or help from sherpas. Did I mention that he's skiing down?

Dhaulagiri comes from ”Dhavali giri” which is Sanskrit and means ” White Mountain ”. Dhaulagiri , at the altitude of 8167 meters, is the seventh highest mountain in the world. It was first climbed on May 13 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji as members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition. They climbed the northeast ridge. Since then the mountain has been climbed by hundreds of people and seen legends like Reinhold Messner, Ed Viesturs and Jean-Christophe Lafaille. But at this day no one has skied Dhaulagiri .

  Fredrik Ericsson is a professional skier from Sweden , living in Chamonix , France . 2004 he became the first Swede to ski an 8000-meter peak when he skied from the central summit of Shisha Pangma (8012 meters) in Tibet . The year after, Fredrik travelled to Pakistan and skied his second 8000er, Gasherbrum 2 (8035 meters). On the same trip he also skied on the coveted Laila Peak (6069 meters). During the winters Fredrik travels the world with his skis, exploring remote mountain ranges. That has taken him to places like Turkey , Tajikistan , Spitsbergen and Sarek National Park in Sweden .

  The 8000ers have gained a legendary status in the climbing world. There are only 14 peaks in the world higher than 8000 meters and all of them are in the Himalaya or Karakoram mountain ranges. To reach the summit on these mountains one has to climb in the so called Death Zone. At the altitude of 8000 meters the air pressure is about a third compared to sea level. That means that the body doesn't get enough oxygen to function and starts to deteriorate, therefore the name Death Zone.

On June 3, 1950 French climbers Louis Lachenal and Maurice Herzog made the groundbreaking ascent of the first 8000er when they reached the summit of Annapurna (8091 meters). In the following 14 years all the 8000ers was conquered. In 1986 Reinhold Messner became the first man to have climbed all 14 peaks.

Follow Fredrik's adventure on the mountain Dhaulagiri in Nepal on
The website will be regularly updated during the expedition.

Fredrik's sponsors: Dynastar skis, Osprey, Adidas Eyewear
Supporters: Grivel, Ortovox, Smartwool, Giro, Therm-Ic, Duracell, Himaya, Dynafit and Loben Expeditions

All photos (number: 4)

Sergey Bogomolov Ê2: We fought our way through to the third camp.

Set off only at 10.30 we fought our way through to the third camp (7100). Snowstorm, zero visibility, but the weather fined in the evening. We can see the summit, though the wind is of 20-30 m/s. We spent a sleepful night.

We had to have a forced rest in camp 2 (6500) because of bad weather. All the night long the wind with blizzard fluttered the tents. And in the morning we had a good work digging out our tent.
All the day long the things remain unchanged but with elements of part-through weather improvement.
There is no shortage of forecasts we wish only the positive realities.


Climbing expedition in Madagascar : The hardest route in the South Hemisphere?

Karambony expedition : Extrem climb in Madagascar Island

A 400m overhanging face, with pitches up to 8b+ (5.14a) with the fantastics landscapes of Madagascar. We are talking about the last climbing trip organized by

After the cliffs and boulders of Argentina (Look at "Encantado" DVD : ) Kairn decides to send some of the best climbers worldwide in order to bring back some nice images.

The main goal of this expedition is to free the route "Tough Enough". Opened inaugust 2005 by germans climbers A. Steinel y D. Gebel, Tough Enough is a 12 pitches route on the 400 overhanging face of Karambony, Tsaranoro massif, Madagascar The route was opened in aid climbing with Camalots # 0.1, 0.5,0.75, 1, 2, 1/2 double, Rocks 4-10, 1-10,Rurps/Beaks, Heads Actual grade : 8b/A3 The upper part has not be freed.

In order to free this route, asked some of the world wide climbers to joind the expedition :
- First of all, François Legrand. Climbing competition legend, François is also a very good hard routes climbers (up to 9a). This will be his first big wall experience, but we guess this will not affect his ability to climb...
- Greg Sobczak. The La Reunion Climber set the first 8b+, 8c and 9a of this island. He also opened many routes in South Africa, Andes, Vietnam and knows very well Madagascar. - Giovanni Quiricci. The swiss climber is the youngest of the team but not the one with the less experience. He did the west pilar of Tango Nameless Tower, and Actandria in Norway, one of the hardest multipitches trad climb in the world.
- Tony Arbones. The spanich climber from Siurana was already par of the Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit expedition on Salto Angel (Venezuela) filmed by Evrard Wendenbaum in "Amazonian Vertigo"
- Leirre Aguirre. From cliffs to competitions, she is one of the best spanish climber.

Evrard Wendenbaum, who filmed "Amazonian Vertigo" will be there to film the best images of the trip.

You can follow the expedition and the daily reports on


Jannu (7710m) North Face: in a two-man team & alpine style

Probably, there in no one from climbing society in Russia who has not heard the name of this Mountain.
And I think that I need not go into the all attempts, both successful and failed, to summit it from the North. The Mountain remembers quantities of attempts, but only few and far between of them were successful.
The last winners were the members of a large, close-knit Russian team of expedition in spring 2003 working in the last degree managed to open the hardest route right to the summit on this tremendous fantastically beautiful Mountain. Since then, nobody has disturbed Jannu North Face sleep. Have I anything farther to say?
Only about a real fact that Jannu itself and every attempt to climb it from any faces and especially from the North means a fascinating leap in the dark, a chance to test yourself and to learn margin of human capacity.
The more altitude is ahead, the more difficultly of the route you choose, and the smaller team paves it the more risk and more responsibility for your decisions you get. But in fact actually a strong attraction of mountaineering is in that. A man opposes to the Nature. He struggles, proves, and matures. And in this struggle he wants to win over himself.
I would like to add that the modern alpinism develops not only aside the hardest technical routes but also aside expansion and experience of human ceiling.
For some time past the complex high-altitude ascents with minimum using of supplementary gear has become more and more question of present interest. And a problem "How to climb?" is an important bearing on a choice of a route and style of ascent than "What to climb?".
Choosing simple and fair methods of struggle a climber adds to new experience and affects - such his mental growth takes place.
Jannu North face climb in a two-man team and light style meetings to me always smacked of a fair way of struggle with personal perfection, learning internal and external worlds.

The idea to open a new route on Jannu North Face in a two-man team and alpine style leaped into my mind not today but about seven years ago. And the things seem to go right way and in four weeks we can already take a view at Jannu summit.
Sergey Kofanov joins with me in this challenge.
He is a young (29 years), right-motivated on modern style, strong climber. In his bag is two Everest's ascents and wide experience of participation in Russian Mountaineering Championships. I hope very much that our duo will be good and strong.
As for pending routes we consider two - three variants as well. A logical and very beautiful line via the Jannu North-west ridge leading directly to the summit is one of the basic and I can safely say that it is one of the most beautiful, potential routes. Two French expeditions made attempts to overcome it but failed.
Other two variants of pathfinding exist actually on the North Face. But it is clear that the final choice of the route of our ascent we will take in situ after getting to Base camp and reconnaissance.
Expedition start from Katmandu is appointed on September, 16. We plan to reach BC on September, 26-27. First two weeks: acclimatization and choice of the route. And the main ascent will occur in the mid- or last October. In expedition hand: Thuraya satellite phone. Sponsors: ÂÀSK, SCARPA, GRIVEL, BEAL, JULBO. Photos of Jannu: Paul Robach

All photos (number: 5)

Page of the expedition
K2 West Face first climb: Summit!!!

21.08.2007 13:00 Summit!!!

12-50 Andrey Mariev and Vadim Popovich had a radio communication from K2 summit! At 12.50 Pakistan time, 11.50 Moscow time, Andrey Mariev and Vadim Popovich reached the summit of

Ê2 !
Russian National team first-ever

succeeded on the hardest route - Russian!- via the West Face of K2- the most complicated world mountain!

Congratulations!!! Thanks for your support!

Victor Kozlov, the head of Russian National K2 expedition

The hardest route of Deverse for Alex Chabot

Last week, Alex Chabot did what he thinks to be the hardest route of Deverse : "PuntX" (Gorges du Loup, France)
The route was bolt by Cedric Lo Piccolo last year and is a 20m long with many different types of holds.

More information and pictures on :


Charakusa big-wall action

A strong Belgian-Polish team consisting of: brothers Nicolas and Olivier Favrese, Sean Villanueva (all Belgium) and Adam Pustelnik (Poland) has spent more than a month in Charakusa Valley with a goal to open new routes on beautiful granite spires. And they managed two major sends.

Their first objective was an unclimbed pillar of Pik 6615m in the west ridge of K7. They tackled it in big-wall style - bringing portaledges and hauling loads. The 1000-meter/26 pitch route went free at 7b. The team spent 16 days on the wall, strugling with bad weather and snowfalls, which eventually stopped them at the end of the rocky pillar, leaving 200m of a snowy ridge to the summit. They tried to wait out bad weather, but eventually were forced to finished their route there and rapelled down. The name for the climb is Badal - which in Urdu means "partly clouded".

After resting a couple of days in the base camp the four men team chose to go for one more climb, light'n fast this time. The goal was the right side of the central pillar of K7 (6950m). They made it in one long push, which lasted 39 hours basecamp to basecamp. Their route, Ledgeway to heaven is 1300 meters/28 pitches long and went almost all free at 7b+ 1xA0. They moved in good style, leaving just a single bolt and a single piton on the route. This is probably the first ascent of the pillar. If that is confirmed they propose name Nafees Khup for it.


French mountain Guide and former president of UIAGM died

Claude Rey, french mountain guide died yesterday after falling in a crevasse on the Aletsch glacier, Switzerland.
This 63 years old guide from Savoie, was the former president of UIAGM (International Union of Mountain Guide Associations)

Geoffray de Flaugergues the youngest to repeat Geminis 8c

After Charlotte Durif :
Geoffray de Flaugergues with 12 years and 4 months is the youngest ever to climb Geminis 8c After doing his first 8b+ after two tries (el chorreras or la belle inconnue on july 14th) he did Geminis on the 20th of July.


Today, on 25 February Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) yearly award will be presented in Grenoble, France.

All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.

In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody!
Now it's 5 am on local time. We had to cease efforts to ascend Fitz Roy because of an objective danger of the route: a huge ice-fall hangs over the couloir and it's constantly under ice bombardment. We decided to change our plans and to climb Saint Exupery peak (2558m). We are going to start, summit and descend this day. The weather forecast is good for the first half of the day, but for the second is bad. We will try to work faster. Wish us good luck.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody.
Yesterday we descended in Chalten and in the very nick of time - got right into a global climbing party. The party was terrific and we had a great time. As always, Russian songs headed the bill. Alexander's singing already became a legend in Chalten. People recognize him in the street and almost nearly ask for an autograph.

Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.

After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.

Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.

For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.

Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.

Wish us of good luck.
Leonid, Alexander, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi! Having climbed the Mountain for two days we had to descend yesterday. We were too close to summit but got into a violent icefall right under the summit mushroom. Thank Heaven we are safe and sound but it was too dangerous there and decided to stop climbing and descend. Now we have a rest. We'll inform you about our further plans.
That's all on for today. Take care.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi everybody!
Yesterday we descended to El Chalten. Three days ago we hired horses and moved our base camp (150 kg!) in Camp-Bridwell. Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre is a very cosy camping area embowered in trees. A stunning view at Cerro Torre massif opens from there. There are a lot of aspiring Cerro Torre climbers and trekkers living there now. Weather was wonderful. However toward evening surprisingly beautiful clouds of fantastic colors and shapes reminding UFOs appeared in the sky. It's the typical sign of an impending storm.

At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.

Dean PotterA good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.

Tomas HuberTowards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.

Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.

Austrians & SashaThe ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".

As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.

Cerro Torre at dawnNow we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.

Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.

Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.

We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Alexander, Leonid, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody. Today we finally climbed up to Norwegian camp site. It took us rather much time.
People say that there is a bad weather forecast for the day after tomorrow and we do not know really what to do. We need two days to try for the summit.

Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Our greetings to everybody! Yesterday we reached Base Camp and homed in it. We found a lot of people there. Thomas Huber told us about his brother Alex Huber that had to left home because had wounded his eye (at least the story runs that). Weather has been standing magnificent for three days, and it hurts us that we arrived so late. We are afraid, that good weather will not hold for some days more and we will not have time to ascend. Tomorrow we are going to climb up to Norwegian camp site and , the day after tomorrow we plan to get the Col and if the weather is good we will make a summit push the next day.

That is all there is to it for today.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
We flied almost lost-free. Only two backpacks with our belongings, sleeping bags, etc. and a tent were lost en route. But as people say money makes the mare go and we are going to buy needed gear in El Calafate where we will take off tomorrow.

And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.

We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

Things are shaking down rapidly. They found Olga's backpack and delivered it. In an hour our plane departs to El Calafate. Our greetings to everybody.

Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.

As expected we bought all needed things in El Calafate. You can't pick and choose here because practically all the things sold there are made by one local company...

There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.

Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.

Alxander, Leonid, Olga.


 Ines PapertHarald Berger

Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Ice Boulder Champions

In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.

Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit:


The team successfully summited on January 29!
On January 29 the guys woke up early in the morning (4 a.m.) and started their summit bid. After they climbed the summit bastion and narrow rocky ridge, all the team reached the Kodar's summit at 9.00. Temperature was negative 43, but weather was breathless. That day all of them safe and sound descended to the base camp toward evening.

Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.

All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.

We congratulate and wait for the winners!

We have already climbed a half of the route. We abide by the schedule. On January 24 we made 3 pitches, it's a record for the present time. Yesterday we made only one pitch. Today two-man team of Dmitrienko and Tsyganov is next in turn to fix the rope on the route. In total, since 19 of January we made 13 pitches - it's approximately a half of the route. Yesterday the team in its full complement took off and now is making themselves at home in a tent settled in a small rocky niche that was found in the area of 12-th pitch.

We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.

Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.

We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.

Keep in touch with us!

For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. In total 9 pitches are climbed. Firm granite, cold, ice-covered rocks. Today Prokof'ev and Belyanin are working. They have to find a convenient site for the first hanging camp. Temperature is negative 30.

New world champions in ice-climbing. January, 21-22, The 2nd World Championships for Difficulty- and Speed Ice Climbing and the 1st Swiss Ice Climbing Masters in Difficulty and Speed, Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.


Difficulty. Men

1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
2 ANTHAMATTEN Simon (Switzerland)
3 LEICHTFRIED Albert (Austria)

4 BENDLER Markus (Austria)
5 ANTHAMATTEN Samuel (Switzerland)
6 WANDELER Simon (Switzerland)
7 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
8 ODERMATT Urs (Switzerland)

Difficulty. Women

1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
2 PAPERT Ines (Germany)
3 MAUREAU Stephanie (France)

4 BUCHMANN Kirsten (Germany)
5 TORRETTA Anna (Italy)
6 EYER Alexandra (Switzerland)
7 FILIPPOVA Maryam (Russia)
8 SHABALINA Maria (Russia)

Speed. Men

1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
2 FAYZULLIN Igor (Russia)
3 CHVED Nikolai (Russia)

4 HOFER Lars (Switzerland)

Speed. Women

1 KOULIKOVA Natalia Russia
2 OLEINIKOVA Joulia Russia
3 TORRETTA Anna Italy

Photo: Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,

On Saturday January, 22, Sergey Borisov was killed in an automobile accident in Ekaterinburg. I do not know, what I can add any more. Suddenly I realized that I have nothing to say if it happens to my friends... because it is not right..

Sergey Borisov

Master of Sport of International Grade
For a long time he was the captain of Sport Club of Army of Ural military region.
He became four times champion of USSR, twice champion of Russia, numerous prize-winner of different national championships.

The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.

1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).

1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".

1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".

2002 - Everest via Northern col.

2004 - Jannu North Face, summiter


Everything is turning out well. We dug a cave and sorted out the problem of fire wood. Three two-man teams (Prokofiev-Belyaev, Dmitrienko-Tsyganov, Tsygankov - Cherezov) worked alternating on the route for 3 days and made 7 pitches. It became warmer a little, -20, snowfalls. The Wall is ice- and snow-covered.

It's snowing, temperature is -20. 5 pitches are made.

Kodar-2005. Nikolay Zakharov called: We continue to make our base camp more comfortable. There is a lot of snow. We clear away the beaten track to the wall. It's -35. Our greetings to everybody!

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Till the end this expedition was very hard…
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than - 40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue. We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the jeeps to Kathmandu.

The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….

The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..

The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!

Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.

P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray


Svetlana Boldykova(24.01.2005)
From January 15-23, 2005 the 2005 Snowboard World Championships took place in Whistler, Canada.
On January 18 Russians sportsmen showed good results: at Women's Parallel Giant Slalom (PGS - Olympic discipline) Svetlana Boldykova became the second, Ekaterina Tudigescheva - the forth and at Men's Parallel Giant Slalom Denis Salagaev was the ninth.

On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.

And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.



Ines Papert breaks record in Ouary Ice Park, USA
Igor Ivashura, CYKHAX ENT, Munich, informs:
This girl just went and did that left behind all the monsters of ice-climbing and showed the best result among men and women on the tenth annual "Ouary Ice Festival" (USA)!!!

Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.

The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.

Ines's result is really unique.

The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"

Total report

1 22:47 WILL GADD
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
13 16:42 ADAM STACK
5 13:53 SUE NOTT

Photo -

Georgian Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Film Festival N I A M O R I
In January-March 2005, in Georgia (former Soviet Union) Tbilisi will host the second annual Mountain Film Festival “Niamori”


18.01.05 Zakharov called from base camp:
16.01 The bad weather was.
17.01 We finally got to the area of ascent. The gorge is so narrow that the helicopter could not find any convenient site to land and we were dropped in deep snow from a hovering helicopter.

The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.

Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.

Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!

14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to take all our equipment and transport to the village that is 25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring for the sun....



"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.

One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15. We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing we summited.

This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...

Simone and Piotr reached the col and put up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers!...

Simone and Piotr

Petites Jorasses. First free climbing "Omega" route Britons Nick Bullock and Stuart MacAleese became the third team climbed historical Patrick "Gab" Gabarrou's and Ferran Latorre's route "Omega" on Petites Jorasses (Mt. Blanc), (700m, VI/5+,A3).

It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.


Ice-climbing. Jenny Lavarda and Hannes Pfeifhofer are the champions of Italy
The second stage of the Italian Ice-climbing championship "ITALIAN ALPINE CUP" finished at the last weekend in Val Passiria .
At men having got over all the grandees and merited runners as Bubu Mauro Bole and Herbert Klammer Hannes Pfeifhofer, a 18-year climber, unexpectedly won the gold.
Jenny Lavarda, having switched off from rock-climbing on ice in this winter season, took part at such events for the first time and won by a head. Silvia Cian is the second and Monica Gemelli- the third.



GRANDES JORASSES. Linceul (4208m). Winter solo
Ferran Martínez is the Spanish climber soloed the "great classics" of GRANDES JORASSES: Linceul. Some days later his climb was repeated by other Spanish climber Eloi Callado.



The fifth summit under the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter" has been climbed
Sergey Shchepachkov informs:

On January, 9, 2005 a team of climbers (Ivan Artemov, Ivan Alentsev, Victor Afanasyev, Andrey Bukin, and Oleg Bibin) summited Mt. Kazbek (5033m) within the framework of the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter".
Weather during the ascent held ideal. I got cold and had to stop climbing and left the team during the summit push. Proshchenko Maxim and Grishnjachy Leonid had to abandon the team too. The route line went from Northern Ossetia side, through Genaldonskoe gorge via Pastukhova route.

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.



Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
All the night the wind shook the tents and it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud, showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col...

Simone and Piotr

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC (5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going up.

The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...

Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.


Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!. The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult to be...

We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.

Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek that still were in C1.

Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....

Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till 7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek "sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe make already a first summit attempt....

Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?

Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise well and also using that point as the starting point for the summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40° degree and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope till C1.

Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend

The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.

Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550 m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.

Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.

The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold, today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600 m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind... but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get the first technical problem.

Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...

Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.

Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...

We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...

After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible. So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base camp (log way....)

Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...

Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.

On the way to C1(31.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac, below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp I. The altitude is about 6550.

Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.

Ciao, Simone

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32 yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.

Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.

We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!

base camp

Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry 40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA. Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather is still good even the temperature went down in compare of one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team

I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead, I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages. We're sentries up here…

We arrived in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.

A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.

The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible…
Bye, Simone

Translation by Jonathan Etes

German TOP-climbers Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz did not sustained the most severe gale-force wind and bailed their first ascent Murallon, North face, (Patagonia).

Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma.
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.

Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.

In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra stupid discussion.

Simone, Darek, Piotr

On 12 December Jean-Christophe Lafaille returned to the base camp after his challenge summit (on December 11) Shishapangma.

It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.

The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France,




International calendar for ice-climbing competitions, 2005 season





CHABOT Alexandre
 EITER Angela

World Cup 2004 Top-10

1. MRAZEK Tomas CZE 560.00
2. CHABOT Alexandre FRA 516.00
3. CRESPI Flavio ITA 333.00
4. PETRENKO Maxim UKR 322.00

5. USOBIAGA Patxi ESP 317.00
6. POUVREAU Gérome FRA 291.00
7. MILLET Sylvain FRA 268.00
8. FUSELIER Mickael FRA 249.00
9. VERHOEVEN Jorg NED 248.00
10. PUIGBLANQUE Ramón Julián ESP 240.00

1. EITER Angela AUT 535.00
2. SARKANY Muriel BEL 525.00
3. EYER Alexandra SUI 364.00

4. GROS Natalija SLO 364.00
5. CIAVALDINI Caroline FRA 356.00
6. SCHÖPF Bettina AUT 345.00
7. LAVARDA Jenny ITA 299.00
8. VIDMAR Maja SLO 287.00
9. CUFAR Martina SLO 286.00
10. SHALAHINA Olha UKR 245.00

World Cup. Latest Stage. Kranj, SLO

1. Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
2. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov (RUS)
3. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
2. Natalija Gros (SLO)
3-4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
3-4. Sandrine Levet (FRA)

Simone Moro. Shisha Winter
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.

After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp.

Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.

Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch

About expedition

UIAA Worldcup Difficulty Event Brno (CZE) 2004. Results.
The Winners - Flavio CRESPI, Italy, and Alexandra EYER, Switzerland. At men Tomas MRAZEK, CZE, and Alexandre CHABOT, France, are the second and the third accordingly. And at women the Russian Olga SHALAGINA (!!!) is the second and Maja VIDMAR, Slovenia is the third.

See all the results


Fred Rouhling opens his new line Mandallaz drive, 9à
Fred Rouhling has just declared about his successful redpoint of the new project in d'Allonzier la Caille - Mandallaz drive, 9à.
In 1993 only lazy did not mock Fred when he declared the first French 9à, Hugh line. However in 2001, 8 (!) years later, the category was confirmed by Italian climber Alessandro Lamberti.
1995 "Practically everyone in this world had to doubt of his judiciousness" - It is about Fred Rouhling and his challenging Akira, 9b. Do you really think the world delightfully looked into his eyes?
1997 l'Autre Cote du Ciel (The other side of the sky), the second 9à, sent by Fred. Then everything went without any autographs....
3d "9a" of Fred was Fred Nicole's "bain de sang"
2004 Mandallaz drive, 9à. Who would doubt... Go, Fred! :)


Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton
On October 5, the two climbed six new pitches, totaling about 1,000 feet of thin ice and mixed climbing. The new route, which is unnamed, started just left of the classic North Face route and ended at the Hossack-McGowan Couloir, which they followed to the East Ridge and eventually reached the summit.
The crux was found on the second pitch, where unprotectable ice forced Koch into a soaking-wet, “womb-like feature” behind the ice until he could bust through and pull a roof to easier ground. He spent the next belay wringing out his clothes and pouring water out of his boots. A sudden storm then dumped buckets of graupel, which cascaded down the face in “one of the most spectacular sights I have witnessed in the mountains,” Koch said. When the storm stopped, they continued upward through four more good pitches of ice, including a winding WI 5 pitch that Koch called the nicest ice pitch he has ever done on a mountain route.

Rating of rock-climbers - the world leaders. Bouldering. Speed. Difficulty
In bouldering and speed the sportmen have been already put in their places, "all sweets" are given away, in difficulty there are two events more ahead...

UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004


1. Sandrine Levet, France
2. Olga Bibik, Russia
3. Julia Abramchuk, Russia

1. Daniel Dulac, France
2. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
3. Jerome Meyer, France


1. Tatyana Ruyga, Russia
2. Anna Saulevich, Russia

1. Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
2. Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky, Russia
3. Alexander Peshehonov, Russia

Difficulty. The current rating

1. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
2. Angela Eiter, Austria
3. Bettina Schopf, Austria

1. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
2. Alexandre Chabot, France
3. Gerome Pouvreau, France

All results

Rock Climbing. World Cup in Valence, France. Difficulty.
The winners

1. CHABOT Alexandre FRA
2. Bindhammer Christian Germany
1. Muriel Sarkany Belgium
2. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
2. CUFAR Martina SLO
4. Jenny Lavarda ITA
5. Angela Eiter AUT

The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.

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