Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Karavshin-2007 Expedition 29.07.2007, A.Adamov called:
We got to the Mountains without excesses and made acclimatization climb by two groups: Asan, 5B Russian grade (Kochetkov, Soshnikov, Kozlov) and the Yellow Wall 5À (Adamov, Rutkevich). On July 30 we set off to Asan, 6À, divided into two groups again: Kochetkov-Kozlov and
Adamov-Rutkevich-Soshnikov. All the guys are vigorous and healthy and send their greetings!
Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007: Summit!!!
Summit ! On July 30 approximately at 12.30 the all the team of four climbers gathered on the maximum point of Shipton Spire!!! The new route, very logical and beautiful has been opened!
Tomorrow they will continue to descend and are expected in BC tomorrow - the day after tomorrow!
July 29. Today weather is now set fair at last. After almost a week of bad weather we managed to see Masherbrum! In formed weather "window" the team will make a summit push.
Portaledges' moving up passed safely. Though last days gave the guys another chance to work but was not pleasure them because of raining or fog or hailstones. And on the night of the July 26/27 the portaledges were properly snowed.
Yesterday Sergey Nilov made two pitches. Today the guys are going to made five - so much, on rough calculations, remained to climb up to the summit ridge.
They should not delay an instant. Nobody knows how much time the weather window will hold on. But meanwhile the forecasts we have been sent come true on 100 % so and we hope that good weather will last 3-4 days more!
Source: Elena Dmitrenko
Date update: 3.10.2007
K2 West Face Direct Russian National expedition: the Bastion has been climbed! but the West Face climb will be continued
30.07.07, 15.30 Victor Kozlov called from base camp: Now two groups: a trio led by Sokolov and four climbers led by Shabalin are working on the route above. Yesterday they reached the top point of fixed ropes at about 16.00 and climbed 1,5 pitches more. Today - 6,5 pitches more are done. The expedition team finally reached the snow terrain. The bastion has been climbed! But the West Face climb will be continued via snow, ice and rocks. Tomorrow the guys will try to climb further and set Camp 6 on the safety place under the rocks.
27.07.07 Shabalin's group, Chorny and Bychkovsky left from BC to ABC. Sokolov's group will climb in camp 3 if weather allows.
26.07.07 Sokolov's group made a cargo-climb from camp C1 to C2.
25.07.07 Sokolov's group made a cargo-climb from ABC to Ñ1 and rehabilitated the camp. The support group left BC.
24.07.07 Sokolov's group climbed from BC to ABC.
23.07.07 The groups led by Bolotov and Totmyanin descended to BC.
The support group visited BC.
22.07.07 Bolotov's descended to ABC, Totmyanin's group made a cargo-climb to camp 4 and descended to ABC too. A big powder avalanche collapsed via the couloir from the left of West face bastion coursing destruction of the tents in camp 1 by blast: the outer canvas were torn and rods - bent. The equipment inside tents remained uncrippled by the avalanche.
Camp 5 has been set, but the bad weather put the breakes on the climb
Pavel Shabalin called from BC:
Greetings to all! We're in the BC. The Camp 5 was set on the route 3 days ago by Bolotov's group at the top point of fixed by Sokolov and Vinogradsky ropes. Altitude - about 7500 meters according an altimeter. The real altitude is difficult to fix because of appreciable difference data for the same place of some team's GPSs. During the last cargo-climb we brought 9 ropes and climbing gear to set C5. After setting C5 Bolotov's group managed to climb 1,5 ropes - difficult overhanging rocks again... Yesterday very bad weather prevented them to work. Today the group is descending. Totmyanin's group set off. In case of a strong wind they'll wait it out in C3 - at a very comfortable tent. Nikolay Cherny ascended to the col and made some pictures of the upper part of the route not visible yet from Camp 5.
We'll reach the snow field soon...
21.07.07 Weather deteriorated. Snowing and a strong wind. The two-man team Bolotov - Kirievsky reached the end of fixed ropes, but could not o work further. Totmyanin group made a cargo-climb to C3. The forecast for all the week is bad.
20.07.07 Bolotov's group made a cargo-climb and pitched a tent of C5 in 7 pitches above camp C4. Korobkov and Bolotov made 2 pitches more upwards. Climbing was very hard again. The group led by Totmyanin made a cargo-climb from ABC to right to C2.
Vitaly Ivanov and helping him Vladimir Kochurov arrived to Moscow. Vitaly will get treatment in one of the Moscow clinics.
19.07.07 Bolotov's and Totmyanin's groups are working on the West Face.
Shabalin's group descended to BC for rest. The weather has settled at last. Bolotov's got to Ñ4 lifting a gear and strengthened the tent. Group led by Totmyanin climbed to ABC.
Moscow Karakoram Expedition - Haina Brakk Direct 2007: the team safely descended to BC and threw a great international party:-)
Greetings to everybody!
The team of Haina Brakk 2007 expedition safely descended to BC last night . All the guys are safe and sound.
In such case they threw a great international party with few songs, lots meal-) and friendly dialogue. Silvia Vidal from Spain was among visitors. She descended from the Mountain yesterday too.
According to the head of the expedition Denis Savel'ev, we climbed what it takes to do it on our own. A completely new line not crossed with any present routes has been paved.
The team is thinking above its name now :)
Brief information about the route: ~1300 m, 6b, À4, 32 pitches.
Sergey Bogomolov and Kazahstan Ê2 Expedition: altitude of 7000 meters is reached
29.07.07 I'ill be brief because of shortage of power supplies. The group 1 reached up to 6500 meters, set camp 2 and remained to spend the night there. The group 2 lifted the gear on the "tooth" and stopped for the night there. Weather was fine.
30.07.07 We did a great deal today. The trio Bogomolov-Puchinin-Brodsky made a cargo-climb to camp 2 and descended to the "tooth". The group of Pivtsov - Sofrygin- Skopin fixed 550 meters aside camp 3 and descended to spend the night in camp 2 again.
31.07.07 The first group worked on the route 500 meters aside camp 3 and reached 7000m then descended to spend the night to camp 2. The second group made a cargo-climb up to C1.
Russian Shingu Charpa East face Expedition
Sergey Bogomolov and Kazakhstan K2 Expedition
27.07.07 I was started out of its somnolence by a sudden noise at night. The s of a powerful rain were strongly knocking my tent. Next day the guys reported about incessant snowing, ended only in the evening, low overcast and roaring from above. They made a cargo-climb to ABC and once again remained to spend the night at the "tooth". Second group's tomorrow setting off will depend on their actions.
26.07.07 According to the first group the mountain is closed by overcast, and the visible sites are also covered with snow. The first team came under the "tooth" and should go tomorrow upwards, and the question is in camp 1 or camp 2. By the evening some hopes for the weather improvement appeared.
25.07.07 The sky above BC is clean, but air above the mountain is tinged with the potential of blackness. Not without reason they speak that it attracts negative charge. Under the forecast improvement will be in two days. In reliance on that the first group left to the middle camp carrying gear and milling these huge distances again.
24.07.07 Yesterday all the day and night long the storm never ceased blowing up on the mountain.
2-nd group comes back. Insensible weather conditions.
23.07.07 Weather has been absolutely absent since the night. Sleet and wind, visibility of 30 meters . We sit in tent in camp 1. The forecast is depressing. We want to work as much as possible in spite of bad weather. From hearsay disgusting weather is from the other side of K2- South face. In BC Il'insky says that by way of weather there is nothing good.
8b+ onsight by Tomas Mrazek
Tomas Mrazek, the world champion 2005, has onsighted HotChiliBeansVolcano, - his ninth 8b+ - at Deverse, France.
Russian Shingu Charpa East face Expedition
Moscow Karakoram Expedition - Haina Brakk Direct 2007: Wish us good weather!
Greetings to everyone!
Serre Chevalier. Results
Winners of in the 18th year prestigious competitions in Serre Chevalier, France, with only invited climbers in lead became Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Spain, and Charlotte Durif (16), France. The Russians girls: Yana Chereshneva is the fourth conceded just Angela Eiter and Nataly Gros, Olga Bibik- the fifth, Evgenia Malamid - the thirteenth.
At men on the second place - Patxi Usobiaga, Spain, Mickael Fuselier, France, - the third. The Russians: Chernikov Mikhail and Rustam Gelmanov are the 14th.
Russian Shingu Charpa East face Expedition: news from Islamabad.
The coast is clear here: there are only police blockhouses in the streets.
Somebody thieved it from John in hotel. That is why our start is delayed. Weather is cloudy, it was raining at night. Karakoram highway is open for the moment.
Mikhail, 2 Alexanders, Sergey
Sergey Bogomolov and Kazakhstan K2 Expedition: the Second group changed the first one on the route. Weather allows to move ahead for a while. The top point of fixed ropes is at 6400 meters.
22.07.07 We did a great deal today: reached 6400 m where a camp is planned to be set tomorrow. Then we returned in C1. Because of the slopes prone to avalanches we are climbing via the ridges and already knocked up to jump up and down. Weather hardly permits us to work. Snow, fog and poor visibility: it's one thing after another. The first group descended to BC to have a rest and successfully draws the sheep there.
21.07.07 Good weather seems to end off. But we are going on. The first group headed to BC, the second one- climbed in camp 1, and then to the ridge at 6000m lifting the gear there. Then- descended to C1.
There was no crowd of climbers wishing to partake in a climbing competition in Fridrichshafen, located on the Coast of Boden Sea. But this isn't rocket science: the best speed climbers set sights on the climbing events in Val Daone.
and lead climbers - on the18th year prestigious competitions in Serre Chevalier.
Well, the not numerous but strong lineup showed good climbing.
Kuban K2 Expedition: SUMMIT!
Chronicle of summit push.
16.-00. The guys finished the cave and found the tent: all the equipment was practically crushed with snow, but oxygen cylinders, gas torches and saucepans appeared safe.
Start of the summit push is planned for July, 20 at 2.00 am.
A big group of climbers is going to set of together with Russians: Koreans with their group of high-altitude sherpas, Americans, Italians, a Portuguese and a climber from Iran. Four Czech climbers climbed up to the "shoulder" on Cesen route right up to our C4. They probably, will join us tomorrow heading to the summit.
8-00. The group worked in the «Bottleneck's» most abrupt part and the Americans helped a lot.
Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007: climbing is rather intense. The team plans to move up the portaledge according weather.
Greetings to all!
On June, 20 the team made some pitches mainly of À4. And yesterday guys climbed À3 + sites. Climbing is rather intense.
In the evenings it looks like in a real chill out here on the mountain.
Distant sounds of music are picked up in our radio station and flashlights flit among night haze on the mountain.
Krasnoyarsk Karakoram 2007. Expedition's first stage is successfully completed. The team has arrived under Broad Peak.
Episode II: Broad Peak
The base camp is settled. In the evening we welcomed our friends: Evgeny Vinogradsky, Gleb Sokolov, Vitaly Gorelik from friendly Russian National Ê2 team and Sergey Mironov ( Novosibirsk) from the team climbing Broad Peak. The supper at our new home was first-rate Tomorrow we have a day of rest. We are going to pay reciprocal visit to K2 camp and prepare for the first setting off to make a route reco.
In the evening we wished many happy returns to Alexander Mikhalitsin (41) - a young, perspective sportsman - in a friendly atmosphere.
Today we with all our amicable company went in a place with the symbolical name Gore (Gora- means Mountain in Russian). We hope to be already in base camp tomorrow.
A four-man team Mikhalitsin-Belyaev-Loginov-Komissarov decided to open a new route on the Western summit in the right part of the wall and climbed it as quick as possible for six days (instead of planned 8-10 days). About 3/4 route free climbed. Ascending the two summit rocky bastions the guys found traces of a previous ascent. They got tired very much but it seems to me at the altitude difference of 2000 meters it is the highest possible speed, anyway, for our team.
A six-man team Khvostenko-Litvinov-Arkhipov-Cheresov-Glasyrin-Yanushevich had got to choose the route tried by Ukrainian team in 2003. That time they had to bail because of weariness and shortages of food. Naturally, we would like to finish this magnificent, long and hard route. And maneged to do that! For 11 days. (instead of planned 12-15 days). Because of nasty weather we lost 1,5 days on the route.
Our team would like to thank our friends - Ukrainian climbers from " Odessa" Mountaineering Club for good consultations!
The main result, it that all the guys be satisfied with the ascents on the gerat wall!
With greetings from all our guys,
Kuban K2 Expedition: SUMMIT! Chronicle of summit push.
16.-00. The guys finiched the cave and found the tent: all the equipment was practically crushed with snow, but oxygen cylinders, gas torches and saucepans appeared safe.
The summit push start is planned for July, 20 at 2.00 am.
A big group of climbers is going to set of together with Russians: Koreans with their group of high-altitude sherpas, Americans, Italians, a Portuguese and a climber from Iran. Four Czech climbers climbed up to the "shoulder" on Cessen route right to our C4. They probably, will join us tomorrow heading to the summit.
6-00. The team got up to the "bottle" - an abrupt couloir - where one of the sherpas of Korean expedition led to the summit two hours before our start, fell to his death.
8-00. The group worked in the «bottle's» most abrupt part and the Americans helped a lot.
10-00. THe hardest ice site of the couloir was done and further the terrain became more flat.
Sergey Bogomolov and Kazakhstan K2 Expedition: Weather window. We are ready to set off.
18.07.07 Weather "window" opened. The first group climbed to C1 hauling the gear for C2. It seems all the snow should collapse from the route has crashed down the mountain-side. Our group was engaged in preparation of rear, in particular in food question: meat and rice - the main food for tomorrow's setting off.
17.07.07 Night, unfortunately, did not side us. There was a fog in BC, it was drizzling and the sky was blacked with clouds. At the first group's bivy 20 sm of fresh snow fell. Naturally, we are waiting again. They lifted the gear under "the tooth". But at night the stars appeared in the sky promising us some hopes. Only in the north there was frightening darkness.
First 8a+ by Christina Schmid
Christina Schmid who has won the two European Youth Cups she has entered this year has done her first 8a+, Surfer's Paradise in Grimmelwald, Switzerland.
First 8c+ by Martin Stranik
(17) has done his first 8c+, Dikobraz in Visoove. Martin who is #2 in the European Youth Cup and trains together with Adam Ondra is #9 in the world ranking.
Slovenians Pavle Kozjek and Grega Kresal. FA East face of Puscantrupa Este (5410m, Huayhuash): Stonehenge (VII+/VI, 70/50 degree ice, 600m)
On 6th of July 2007 Slovenians Pavle Kozjek and Grega Kresal made the first ascent of the east face of Puscantrupa Este (5410m). The peak is located on extreme south-east corner of Huayhuash, far from usual approaches from the west. Their new line, Stonehenge (VII+/VI, 70/50 degree ice, 600m) ascends a wall that had not been attempted for over twenty years. In first 200 m the line follows ice below the steep rock face that they climbed in ten pitches ( 60 m rope). Kozjek and Kresal made the ascent in fourteen hours roundtrip in pure alpine style.
They drove eleven hours from Huaraz to reach Cajatambo, from where they started a long two-day trek to reach the south side of the peak, beneath which they established basecamp. Starting at 4 a .m. on July 6, they need some more than an hour to reach the base of the face. After passing easier ice section they began to climb steep wall made of lithic tuff, typical volcanic rock of Puscanturpa group. In general it was very good however, some sections of the climb were a bit risky because of large unstable blocks. (the knowledge about ustable rock from Slovenian mountains was extremely useful)
After 200 meters of easy ice they started to climb rock on a sharp ridge From the first rocks on the ridge the line continues two steep pitches (V, VI) up the slabs to reach the obvious ledge. From there they followed the system of cracks and corners: fifth pitch (VII) in perfect, almost monolythic rock with few protection possibilities, and sixth pitch (VII+) that began with “the Scary Corner,” a loose 10-meter dihedral where a moving block jammed one of their Camalots.
K2 West Face Direct Russian National expedition: news from July, 8-14
14.07.07 Snowfall is going on. The duo Shabalin - Tukhvatullin stay in camp S2, duo Mariev-Popovich did a cargo-climb from Ñ2 in Ñ3 and dug out a tent in camp C3. The group led by Sokolov remains in C4.
13.07.07 Weather deteriorated - the sky is cloudy, it's snowing and windy. Sokolov's group is in Ñ4 periodically digging a tent out from the accumulated between the tent and slope snow brought by powder avalanches. Shabalin's group is climbing from Ñ1 to Ñ2.
12.07.07 Shabalin's group climbed from ABC to Ñ1, Totmyanin's group descended to BC for rest, Sokolov's group made two pitches more.
11.07.07 Shabalin's group ascended from BC in ABC. Sokolov's group reached Ñ4. Totmyanin's group made three pitches and descended to spend the night in Ñ2.
10.07.07 Sokolov's group climbed from Ñ2 to Ñ3, then a two-man team Sokolov-Gorelik descended and made a cargo-climb C2-C3. Totmyanin's group moved C4 six pitches up and fixed one rope more. Volodin has a sore throat and went downwards.
09.07.07 Weather is excellent. Sokolov's group climbed from ABC to Ñ2. Totmyanin's group made three pitches and prepared a site for the next setting of C4.
08.07.07 All the night long and day long it was snowing. Bolotov's group descended to BC for rest. Sokolov's group remained in ABC. Totmyanin's group works above Ñ4, but because of heavy powder avalanches managed to do only a carry-climb up to the end of fixed ropes.
Krasnoyarsk Karakoram 2007: Great Trango second summit!
Tomorrow is the decisive date.
The guys of the first team, having descended to BC the day before yesterday and already rested from their "labours", feel good: have keen appetite and climb boulders here in BC.
Sergey Bogomolov and Kazakhstan Ê 2 Expedition: the Mountain holds us at bay. Bad weather. The slopes are prone to avalanches.
14.07.07 The Mountain holds us at bay bristling up with snowfalls, avalanches. The both groups managed to approach only under the route, leave all the gear and get back to ABC. But in the evening the atmosphere pressure began to grow, the blue sky appeared.
15.07.07 Unfortunately, there is nothing to expect here. The forecast, provided by Emil Mamedov, is completely justified. Bad weather holds on July 13-15 with snow and winds. The second group descended breaking legs in stone formations filled up with snow up to 4300. The first group remained in ABC waiting out the bad weather.
16.07.07 The result of bad weather' snow charge is the avalanche-hazardous condition of the route. The guys from the first group reported that a huge avalanche collapsed right on our way - and that is good. We do not know whether it swept out camp 1. The guys had settled it near the "tooth" right before route's start to observe it. The second group is in BC now.
"Krasnoyarsk" Karakoram Expedition 2007 Summit!!!
The team led by O.Khvostenko made 4 pitches more today and hopes finally to overcome the hardest sites, but that will turn upon the weather: the sky is tightened with clouds now.
Night came, the guys, summited Great Trango and descended for 6 days, are already getting to sleep, and we wish them good night...
Source: Nikolay Zakharov
Sergey Bogomolov and Kazakhstan Ê2 Expedition. Weather deteriorated. New phase of the moon. Both groups have gathered in ABC.
13.07.07 Weather deteriorated. Fog, snow, rain as result of a new phase of the moon. The two groups gathered in ABC. Our group made a cargo-carry to the middle camp and back. The first group set off from BC up to here. Il'insky has some problems in BC: the sheep run up and there is no fence to stop them.
Date update: 16.07.2007
World Cup Chamonix 2007
1 Vidmar Maja
1 Crespi Flavio
Date update: 17.07.2007
Ê2. Sergey Bogomolov: Second group fixed the route up to 5700m.
1. Svetlana Tuzhilina, Ukraine
1 Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
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All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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