Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Kangchenjunga Ski Expedition Update 3. Route to Camp 1!
Climbing an 8000-meter peak is a time consuming project. Not only can it be a long and demanding approach to the foot of the mountain but you also need to spend weeks to get used to the altitude (acclimatize) to be able to climb the mountain. In total Jörgen and I are spending two month to be able to climb and ski on Kangchenjunga.
This Autumn Jörgen and I are the only climbers on the south side of Kangchenjunga. Normally the base camps on the 8000ers are crowded with climbers and on the mountain there are fixed ropes all along the routes. Being alone is great, it gives a more adventurous touch to it. We get to go up on the mountain all by ourselves to search and find a nice and safe route to climb (and ski). I can almost imagine what it was like for the British climbers that first climbed Kangchenjunga in 1955.
From our base camp at 5100 meters we have about 3500 meters up to the summit of the mountain and we will use three camps on the way. During the last four days Jörgen and I have been working our way up to our first camp. It is located at about 6200 meters on a ridge that was named &ldquoThe Hump&rdquo by the first ascensionists. The route goes on a fairly steep glacier that is cracked up by crevasses (cracks) and seracs (ice walls) that we have to navigate around. The routefinding was a bit tricky and the weather didn&rsquot cooperate with us either. Each day it was clear and sunny in the morning but after a only few hours clouds pulled in and it started snowing. Needing good visibility to move higher up we could only manage to ascend a few hundred meters a day. We spent one night at camp one before we returned to base camp. Four days up, three hours down.
Having a good route up to C1 and the fact that Jörgen and I seem to acclimatize well we are getting good confidence for the future. At the moment we are resting in base camp before we are heading up the mountain to continue our acclimatization and trying to figure out the route to Camp 2 at 7000 meters. More news when we are back from C2.
Base Camp: Lat N 27° 40&rsquo 24&rdquo
Lon E 88° 05&rsquo 43&rdquo
Altitude: 5100 meters
Warmest temp: +36°C
Coldest temp: -11°C
For more info about Fredrik and Jörgen check out their websites:www.fredrikericsson.com and www.jorgenaamot.no
Source: Fredrik Ericsson.
Kangchenjunga Ski Expedition Update 2: Base Camp at last!
Finally we have reached the Kangchenjunga Base Camp and it was not a walk in the park to get there. We were hoping for eight days of nice walking in the hills and mountains of eastern Nepal. Now 14 days later I know that the Kangchenjunga base camp trek is a bit more complicated than that.
First we were strolling in the sun along rice fields and banana plantations. Then came the Jungle with the leeches. The days got longer and the rainfalls got more frequent. As we moved up to higher altitude the weather and the terrain got nicer. Once in a while I even got a glimpse of a snow capped mountain. Our mood got better but that didn’t stop Jorgen from catching a cold. He got a sore throat and a bad cough that kept him a wake most of the night. To get rid of the cough Jorgen decided to stay a few days in the camp in Tseram (3700m) while the rest of the crew continued. During the trek we had about 20 porters that helped us carry our gear and food. When we came up to the Yalung Glacier that leads up to Kangchenjunga, about half of them didn’t want to continue. With only half the men it took us two days to travel the distance of a normal day. If that wasn’t enough, then came the snow. In one day we got 20 cm snow and that made the rest of the porters give up on us as well. Even though it gave us some problems I totally understand them. Walking on this glacier is no fun at all and 20 cm of snow doesn’t make it more exciting. It’s a mix of sand, rocks and ice and always up or down. Not a single flat spot. The gear the porters show up in is better suited for a sunny day on the beach than on a snowy glacier. I’m impressed that they made it as far as they did. Fortunate for us we were not far from base camp. Jorgen got well and caught up with us and together with our cooking crew: Buddhi, Kansha and Mon we could move up to Kangchenjunga Base Camp.
It feels great to be here at the foot of Kangchenjunga and the view of the beautiful mountains makes the long trek all worthwhile. After 14 days in the jungle and on the moraine Jorgen and I are getting very excited to take out the skis and head up to the snow.
For more info about Fredrik and Jorgen check out their websites:
Source: Fredrik Ericsson.
Kangchenjunga Ski Expedition: The Adventure has begun
The Adventure has begun. Jorgen and I are now on the trek towards Kangchenjunga base camp. Four days have passed and four days to go to reach camp.
For more info about Fredrik and Jörgen check out their websites:
Fredrik’s sponsors: Dynastar, Osprey, Tierra, Hestra, Adidas Eyewear and Grivel Supporters: Tissot, Giro, DHL, Exped, Loben Expeditions and Jamtport
Source: Fredrik Ericsson.
Swede first to ski the three highest mountains in the world
The Swedish extreme skier Fredrik Ericsson is trying to become the first person to ski the three highest mountains in the world. The three year project starts this week when Fredrik is going to the Himalayas to ski the third highest mountain, Kangchenjunga (8586m). Fredrik’s partner on the expedition is Norwegian extreme skier Jurgen Aamot.
Fredrik Ericsson is one of the leading high altitude skiers in the world with ski descents on some of the highest mountains in the world, including Peak Somoni, Shisha Pangma, Gasherbrum 2, Laila Peak and Dhaulagiri.
- I have already skied on three of the 14 8000-meters peaks, but now the aim is towards the absolute highest. The project spans over three years and I will try to ski the three highest mountains in the world, Kangchenjunga (8586m) this Autumn, K2 (8612m) next summer and Mount Everest in the Autumn of 2010, says Fredrik.
The first big challenge starts now when Fredrik together with his Norwegian companion are going to the Himalayas. The mountain they plan to climb and ski – Kangchenjunga – lies on the border between Nepal and the Indian state Sikkim. Kangchenjunga was during many years assumed to be the highest mountain in the world before the correct altitude of Mount Everest was established in 1849.
Kangchenjunga was first climbed in 1955 by a British team including Joe Brown and George Band. Since then, around 200 climbers have reached the summit. But so far no Swede or Norwegian has climbed to the summit and no one has skied off the summit of Kangchenjunga.
- This means that we can become the first Swede and Norwegian to climb to the summit and also the first in the world the ski the mountain, says Fredrik.
After a long journey with airplane, jeep and by foot they will end up on the Yalung glacier where they will set up base camp at an altitude of about 5300 meters. During three weeks they will prepare for the big challenge by several acclimating climbs. In the middle of October Fredrik and Jörgen start the hard climb to the top of Kangchenjunga.
- We will carry all our equipment by ourselves we have randonne boots on our feet and will not use supplemental oxygen. Therefore it’s harder for us to climb the mountain than for most of the other climbers, says Fredrik.
The climbing is mostly on a glacier, the route is long and serious and it’s extremely strenuous climbing at that altitude. Fredrik and Jörgen are planning to use four days from base camp to the summit and they will spend three nights in camps on the way.
- On the summit day we start climbing at midnight and I believe it will take about 10 hours to reach the top, says Fredrik.
The ski descent, which is the highlight of the two months long expedition, is expected to take five hours. The descent goes all the way down to base camp, has a vertical fall of almost 3300 meters with some very steep sections of up to 50 degrees inclination.
- To ski at 8000 meters is not easy. It’s extremely hard work and in the beginning we have to stop to rest after only a few turns. After four to five turns I’m as exhausted as after skiing 1000 vertical meters in the Alps, says Fredrik.
To follow the expedition check out Fredrik’s website: www.fredrikericsson.com. Fredrik will post regular updates on the site.
Facts: Fredrik Ericsson.
Fredrik Ericsson grew up in a town called Umeå in the northern part of Sweden but has since 2000 spent most of his time in Chamonix in the French Alps. As a professional skier he spends the winter travelling to ski resorts in the Alps and exotic mountain ranges around the world. When Fredrik’s not skiing he enjoys climbing in the Mont Blanc range.
Below is a short summary of Fredrik’s previous ski descents:
2003 - Peak Somoni (7 495 m), Tadzjikistan.
Fredrik’s sponsors: Dynastar skis, Osprey, Tierra, Hestra, Adidas Eyewear and Grivel Supporters: Tissot, Exped, DHL, Giro, Ortovox, Dynafit, Therm-Ic, Jämtport and Loben Expeditions
Climbing Federation of Russia invites you for the next UIAA YC meeting to Russia, Ekaterinburg 3 -6 October, 2008
The organization of a meeting is incured kindly by Alexander Klenov and "Extreme Activities Association".
The brief program of a meeting:
The travel costs rests on the member associations. Stay and catering for one person of each member nation rest on the "Extreme Activities Association"
3rd International Mountain Film Festival Domzale
In 2009, The Domzale Mountain Culture Association will be organizing the 3rd International Mountain Film Festival. The festival will be held from 17th to 20 March 2009 in Ljubljana and Domzale. It is the only film festival of its kind in Slovenia – a small Alpine country known for the highest achievements in the worlds of Alpine climbing and sport climbing. All the films shown at the festival will undoubtedly attract viewers because Slovenes consider mountaineering and outdoor activities as a way of life. The festival has been gaining on popularity and has been attracting an increasing number of visitors, including internationally established climbers and makers of mountain films. Along with film projections, the festival programme also includes other art and thematic exhibits, lectures, round tables, and a photography contest.
The Deduction of following Royalty Peak Fee effective from Autumn 2008 for all Autumn Season
Baintha Brakk, 7285m, Attempt
Ural region team (Serguey Timofeev, Alexandre Korobkov, Vadim Popovich, Serguey Dashkevich, Kirill Litvinov and Andrey Vilisov)
commited to a capsule-style climb, and began living on the wall.
The peak was first climbed via the Southwest Spur to the West Ridge, and over the West Summit to the Main Summit by two legend
britts Doug Scott and Chris Bonington in 1977 (The other members of the party were Mo Anthoine, Clive Rowland, Nick Estcourt, and
Tut Braithwaite. Estcourt, Anthoine, and Rowland all reached the lower West Summit, while Braithwaite was injured early on by
Expedition S.Peterburg-Latok III
Odintsov's dream - Latok III continued to be popular objective among S.Peterburg's climbers. Yesterday another russian team (
Valery Shamalo, Alexey Gorbatenkov, Dmitry Krasnov, Ruslan Kirichenko&Oleg Koltunov) started their attempt.
IFSC CLIMBING WORLDCUP 2008
MOSCOW, Russia - OCTOBER, 31 - NOVEMBER, 1 - 2
Aug, 2nd, expedidion "Czechoslovakia-2008" lead by Mihail Kleslo made successful ascent of the highest unclimbed peak in Russian Pamir called Korumdy East, 6384m
Peak Chiringyad, 5864m, Summited
On Aug, 8, a five member Russian Team (Michail Volkov, Nikholay Sinushin, Maxim Pankov, Andrey Satanin & Alexander Novikov) made perhaps third ascent of Peak Chiringyad, 5864m, in the seldom-visited Yazgulemskiy range (Western Pamir) via centre of West Face (Russian route 6B, 1989).
After that Michail Volkov, Nikholay Sinushin, Maxim Pankov descended to ABC at 5500m while Andrey Satanin & Alexander Novikov rest in the upper bivouac aiming to climb neighbouring peak Woodoor, 6132m
SUMMIT. Beka Brakai Chhok nearly 7000 m (6940m)
SUMMIT!! SUMMIT!! SUMMIT!!
I and Hervè
decided to avoid the 8000 meters this summer (too many people) and try
something different in a wild area as Baltar Glacier (we thought about
Batura II). I had been before in 2005 and I knew the high potential of
We are of course very satisfied about our climb. Fast, in super light style and on a virgin high peak. Exactly what we was looking for. This area has many other future possibility and probably I will be here again…soon… Simone
Expedition Latok III St.-Petersburg. Tomorrow we leave in Askole
The expedition purpose: not passed Southwest wall.
Hello all! We in Pakistan, in Skardu. We are fine, tomorrow we leave in Askole. From Askole in base camp on foot.
The news from Martin and Herve. Change to purposes
Ciao! We are back, on line. After 1 week without electricity due a technical problem with our generator (it is completely broken after a 4 days “swimming” due heavy rain in BC) we finally get my second generator here in base camp. So starting from today we are again able to be in touch with the world.
The past week, after our Batokshi peak 6050 m alpine style climb in 9 hours 30 minutes) had been spent from us climbing on the nice rock here around, bouldering and exercising on the slake line. We decided to stay here in BC because we gave our eventual support to the rescue team on Nanga Parbat, so we decided to be always ready here in case we have to be picked up from the helicopter rescue and fly to Nanga Parbat. Thanks God the 2 strong climbers on Nanga managed themselves all the situation and they came safe back till 5700 meters. They did a very good job. Bravi!
Ramon Julian did "Realization", 9a+
After his first place at Serre Chevalier masters, Ramon Julian did today "Realization", 9a+ at Ceüse (aka Biographie) .
Date update: 15.07.2008
Simone Moro. Batura II Base Camp
Hallo guys!! We are on line…
We arrived 2 days ago in the Batura base camp after 6 days spent travelling by flight from Milan to Islamabad, organize all the burocratic procedure in the Pakistani capital and than driving along the Karakorum Highway by bus and than by jeep to the village of Bar. From there in 3 days trekking we reached the 4107 meters of our base camp. I was not used to spend 6 days only to arrive at the base of the mountain… in fact in the last expeditions I spent 2-3 weeks and more to realize the same transfers…
Source: Simone Moro
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Montauban (FRA) 2008. Result
1. Sharafutdinov Dmitry(RUS).
We Congratulate the winners!
Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama have broken the speed record for climbing the Nose of El Capitan
According to a text message that Hans Florine sent to Chris McNamara of Supertopo.com after the climb on July 2, the time of their ascent was 2:43:33.
Tauliraju. Expedition is over. We had to leave
Yuriy Koshelenko reports: " The weather had held out for 5 days, first two days we were waiting , next three days we're spending on the face, at the night of 4-th day it began to scatter.
Dodo Kopold on Broad Peak
Good news - after the summits of GII (9.6.) and GI (15.6.) Dodo has also the summit of Broad Peak (26.6.).
Source: Katarina Kopoldova
Film "West face of K2"
Yesterday the premiere of a documentary film about Russian team summit on west wall of K2 took place in International Trade Centre.
There was declared about new purpose- winter summit on K2 via edge from the side of China.
Last news from russian expedition "Karakoram-2008 "
27.06.08: Guys had a night on 6500 m (higher than the pass). Now all members of team are in BC. Everybody is in good health.
Additionally Nikolay Zacharov (coach of team) reported that team will perhaps leave for summit after rest. It means that it's may be enough to have acclimatization only on 6500 m.
Ukrainian expedition to Karacorum
Sergey Bershov and Igor Svergun from Kharkov, Ukraine, started with their new expedition "Karacorum - 2008". On June 17, 2008 they departed to Kiev. The way is long: Kiev- Dubai-Karachi-Islababad by plain, two days to Scardu by bus, 1-day jeep trip and 5-7 days on foot with porters to BC to Baltoro glacier (5000 m).
Salamandre (possible 9-th grade) -video
Matthieu Raffier of Visit Venus Productions has made a short film about Salamandre at Saint Pierre en Faucigny, French Alps, Fred Rouhling's latest route in the 9th grade (he calls it 5.15, which means 9a+ or harder). The crux move on the route itself looks absolutely sick, but the question is whether Fred's campus routine isn't even sicker...
22.06.08: TGW's last news
"First of all we'ld like to express all our sorrow concerning Jean-Noel Urban's death...We will always remember those happy time, which we had spent together. Jean-Noel was an exellent mountaineerer and skier, member of FFME Himalaya committee.
French extreme skier Jean Noel Urban lost in fatal accident on Gasherbrum 1
Setting up camps on Gasherbrum 1, on June 18 at around 5 am, Jean-Noel Urban was leaving Camp 2 for Base Camp, when he fell into a very big crevasse. A search was attempted the next day, without results. There has been heavy snow fall since and rescue attempts have now been aborted.
"La Grave y Cimes" - 5-th Mountaineering skills course
On June, 27-28 the 5-th Mountaineering skills course will take place at la Grave- la Meije.
For any further information and accreditation contact: firstname.lastname@example.org
Russian expedition to Peru
Russian expedition to Peru started on July 4, 2008. Staff of team: Timur Akhmedkhanov, Alexandr Ruchkin, Arkadiy Seregin, Yuriy Koshelenko.
Source: Yuriy Koshelenko
Last news from TGW expedition
16.06.08: "It's froggy. We feel ourselves tired- yesterday we returned from acclimatization: a few of sleep, food and a lot of efforts. But if you want to feel oneself light on the height you should overpass this stage.
Source: Yannick Graziani
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All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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