Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Date update: 13.02.2007
Simone Moro: The motivation to reach the summit of Broad peak is still very high.
News from 08.02.2007
Training up to 6000 m
This is what Shaheen and I did yesterday. After 6 days in base camp we decided to make training and climb up to 6000 meters in a few clouds day.
We carried food and personal equipment to use during the summit push.
We also phoned to Karl Gabl (our forecast man) and he advice us to come back in Base camp because today (and it is happen) there is a windy day and tomorrow will come back the bad weather for the next 3-4 days.
So we decided to wait the good window of perfect weather with low wind to realize our summit push. We trust in Karl and we don’t want to take stupid extra risk...
News from 09.02.2007
Also this morning is cloudy and it means another day in Base Camp. I phoned to my friend to request an updated weather forecast…. For the next 5 days will be cloudy….
So I took the camera and I did some shots with K2 in the clouds and arrange the short video where I explained how it works the helmet- microcamera I used to take videos in the previous days
News from 10.02.2007
Try to guess? Also today is cloudy and we can see only C2 on Broad Peak. The upper part is completely covered and cloudy. As the weather forecast predict same conditions for the next days I decide that tomorrow we will climb till C2 to get training and be fit, ready for the future summit push. We also will control the fix rope we left I the steepest sections.
Sooner or later the good weather will come.
News from 11.02.2007
Another days waiting Last night we had snowfall but thanks God only few centimeter.
Despitee the long time we are waiting in Base Camp for the good weather and also despite the 2 manth already gone since my departure from Italy, we are in good mood and we have funny moments here.
The motivation to reach the summit of Broad peak is still very high.
Ak-Su-2007: Weather favored to us
10.02.07. Today Evgeny Dmitrienko and Nikolay Zakharov arrived by train to Krasnoyarsk from Novosibirsk. They were met by friends and doctor Bormental. As they told Evgeny had been working above the Krest (Cross), there where Chaplinsky's route becomes to be easier, on the flattening, and placing an ice-screw with two tools when an ice lens was pricked out. The bottom ice-screw (made in Ekaterinburg!) was broken. Evgeny fell down up to the bolt and his right crampon caughted the wall in the beginning of falling. As the result: complete rupture of ligament and he is guided t be operated for that. He keeps up his end. But his disappointment is understandable. The knowing people explained that Odintsov's route is simple in the bottom part, but then becomes harder. On the contrary Chaplinsky's route is. The most difficult part - its bottom site. The two-man team climbed ahead with the fantastic speed: on average 6 pitches a day. For the fourth day it had been done more than half of the route, all the difficulties had been already behind...
In Bishkek the guys met a team from Novosibirsk that is going to launch a challenge against Ak-Su via the line more to the left of Odintsov - Ruchkin's route.
Wish them good luck.
08.02.07 The guys arrived to Bishkek. And tomorrow will leave home.
Object: Mt. Ak-Su North face
Route: Odintsov - Ruchkin's route.
Days: 9 days- ascent, 1 day.
Weather favored to us. There were only two days of bad weather. One of them - the summit push day. All the climbers feel all right now. During the ascent Evgeny Belyaev took sick a little and the burden of leading came upon Vladimir Gunko and Igor Loginov. They were in fighting trim.
Route extent: 34 pitches (up to the ridge),climbed for 8 days, speed: on average 4 pitches - about 200m- a day.
Descent: via the same route as the ascent.
The team would like to thank all of you who helped the guys, first of all Valery Balezin, Nikolay Zakharov, Alexey Komissarov, Vladimir Arkhipov, Evgeny Dmitrienko, Nikolay Naumov, Andrey Desyatkov and Rock Pillars. And also to those who kept their fingers and followed the ascent.
Winners of Golden Piton Awards
Winners of Golden Piton Awards - handed for the year’s top climbing achievements in Editors' of the USA's most popular and respected climbing journal, Climbing magazine opinion.
Solo Climbing: Chris Sharma, Es Pontas, Mallorca.
Bouldering: Dave Graham for the sheer volume of hard ticks and FAs in 2006.
Sport Climbing: Patxi Usobiaga, of Eibar, Spain, who did more 5.14s in a year - 33 and counting, including seven onsights of the grade - than anyone in the history of sport climbing including the third ascent of Realization (5.15a).
Traditional Climbing: Dave MacLeod for Rhapsody, E11.
North American Alpine: Maxime Turgeon and Louis-Phillipe Menard, Canadian Direct, Denali.
B.A.S.E.-climbing. Rozov & Odintsov & Ruchkin & Provalov.
Expedition Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile, starts.
*- Torres del Paine: The left tower, 2850m, is called the Southward Tower or de Agostini, Central Tower, 2800m, is the largest vertical rock face in the world, and Northern Tower, Monzino 2600m.
Simone Moro: Postponed the summit push
This morning we had cloudy sky and light snowfall. The wind was weak but we decided to avoid to climb in the fog and clouds. I waited the new forecast who came at noon from Karl Gabl and it show a bad situation. Also tomorrow cloudy, after tomorrow less clouds but starting from Friday again bad with snowfall till next Tuesday..
Date update: 22.02.2007
New 8C/+ by Koyamada
"On 30th January, I completed a three years' project at Shiobara. There are 30 moves in a 12 meter roof.
I felt it somewhat harder than 8C so I graded it 8C/C+. Looking forward to get repeaters' opinions.
The name of the problem is Babel."
Jenny Lavarda and Eugeniy Krivosheytsev Win Ice WC
Simone Moro: Start could be tomorrow
News from 05.02.2007
News from 04.02.2007
Ak-Su-2007: The team summited Mt. Ak-Su
04.02.07. Alexey Komissarov reports: Today at 2.00 pm local time the full team summited Mt. Ak-Su. The guys changed the control message in the cairn on the top. Weather is good, it's snowing a little. They will spend the night in the portaledges and tomorrow descend via ascent route. All the climbers are safe and sound and in splendid fettle.
Simone Moro: Today we climbed from C2 to C3
News from 01.02.2007
We reached C3 at 2:20 p.m. and we left all equipment there than we descent to camp 2, we take off the tend and all equipment and put it under heavy stones . We don't want to take risk that the strong wind can destroy our hard work and we prefer to put everything safe.
Another 8c+ by Dani Andrada
Dani Andrada has done an extension to Obrim pass in Santana, Spain, which he grades, 8c+. During the last three years, Dani has done 34 routes 8c+ and harder out of which 28 are first ascents.
The first 8c + in Kavala - Greece.
Thanasis Htenas has sent his first 8c +, Parthenikos ymenas, in Kavala - a new rock-climbing area in Greece, located near to Saloniki. To attention of rock-climbers are offered about 300 various well set routes of various grades, and Thanasis is working on the most hard of them.
Anne Gray has sent Dancer in the dark
Anne Gray, 45-years-old number 4 in the world ranking, has sent Dancer in the dark, 8A in Vernayaz, Valais, Switzerland.
Àk-Su-2007: The guys came up to a big cornice with a fracture.
01.02.07.The guys came up to a big cornice with a fracture. Tomorrow is the turn of Vladimir Gun'ko to lead. It's the first time since 2000 when the Krasnoyarians repeat some else's route. But to tell the truth nobody has climbed it for the last 10 years, and now it's the first climb in winter. The second go has its advantages: attested grade and climbing can be traced. From the description it is clear that they have to overcome the last 270m of hard climbing and 170m - of rather easy climbing. Weather can complicate the ascent. There is a strong wind, snowfall. In one word - snowstorm. In base camp a tent was nearly swept away. The endgame will appear tomorrow. Especial for Evgeny Dmitrienko's fans: "He is OK," - Balezin told.
Date update: 2.02.2007
Simone Moro: Today it was a beautiful day
News from 31.01.2007:
Àk-Su-2007: "There was an earthquake. But everything turned out well"
31.01.07. The second team got the Dihedral with a drip. Here the part of Odintsov - Ruchkin route coincides with Chaplinsky route (100m). The portaledges are pitched in the top part of the drip. According to the description, they have to climb about 500m of hard rocky terrain up to the ridge. "There was an earthquake. But everything turned out well", - Balezin vigorously told. The "crimson weather" comes to end a strong wind was all the day long. The guys are in pugnacious spirits.
Simone Moro: ... how beautiful weather we have today
News from 30.01.2007
News from 29.01.2007
But yesterday was a bad day to be alone because I have to climb many green ice slopes and I have not the partner to make me safety with rope. In any case I keep the concentration and I climbed in Piolet Traction. I saw many old fix rope but there was under ice and had been impossible to use. But at 3:00 p.m. I arrived at C2 at 6250 meters. I spent some minutes and spoken with y friends in BC. Than I started the delicate descent and I have done my best to collect some pieces of old fix rope and put them in the most dangerous part. It will be a good help for our future climb and descent. After that hard day I spent another night in C1 and this morning I came to BC. In the trip we will go directly to C2, sleep there and the day after we will establish our last camp. Camp 3.
Ak-Su 2007: After unsuccessful fall Evgeny lamed his leg
30.01.07. Yesterday (Monday) Balezin did not contacted and we worried a little. As it turned out, not unfounded. After unsuccessful fall Evgeny lamed his leg. The trauma is not serious, but "incompatible with 6B". By the night the guys managed to descend all by theirselves. Balezin sett off to meet them at the wall and missed the communication session. They spent the night in ABC, and today descended to BC. In the meantime the six climbers continued to head their route. Having climbed the hard sites they reached hard above Krest (Cross) for today (Tuesday). Weather is favorable. Greetings.
Winter Chatyn (4368m, Caucasus, Russia-Georgia) climb
On January 25 the team of Demchenko and Vizbor Mountaineering Clubs from Moscow in structure: Nilov Sergey, Doronin Sergey and Korolev Evgeny, in the midday summited Mt. Chatyn North face via "Romb (Rhombus)" Myshlyaev's route 6À and started to descend. Weather was tolerable.
Ak-Su 2007: expedition news
28.01.07. The first team has made 4 pitches for today (18 in total), the second one - 5 (16) working by trio. Today was the turn of Gun'ko, Prokof'ev, Khvostenko tomorrow - the young growth will lead climbing. Greetings to everybody.
Simone Moro: it was the coldest night of all the expedition...
News from 28.01.2007
We slept in C1, but it was the coldest night of all the expedition (-45 degree). Shaheen slept with his downsuit in the sleeping bag, but this morning he presents sign of hypothermia. For this reason he went back to BC, for drinking and worming up. Today I climbed alone, without rope. Finally at 3 p.m. a reached C2 at 6250 meters and I needed all my experience to be successful in this climb. After some minutes I climb back to C1 where I’m now….
Simone via satellite phone
Ak-Su 2007: team has made 4 pitches for today.
28.01.07. The first team has made 4 pitches for today (18 in total), the second one - 5 (16) working by trio. Today was the turn of Gun'ko, Prokof'ev, Khvostenko tomorrow - the young growth will lead climbing. Greetings to everybody.
International Youth rock climbing festival “Europe – Asia 2007”
Simone Moro: This is our third rest day in base camp.
News from 26.01.2007
Ak-Su-2007: Weather is fine, wall's condition is excellent and the guys are working fast.
28.01.07. Viktor Balezin examines the ascent directly through the field glasses fixed on a tripod in 40 meters from base tent. He seems to be satisfied with ascent running. Weather is fine, wall's condition is excellent and the guys are working fast. The first team of two climbers yesterday made 6 pitches, the second team - 11. The portaledges are hauled up to the ends of done pitches. The ascent speed is higher than during a summer climb. If only weather window holds on...
27.01.07. Valery Balezin reports: a two-man team Arkhipov - Dmitrienko has made 8 pitches for the first day of working. As result they climbed the easy part of the route - the bottom ice couloir. The guys spend the night under the cornice. The other team of six climbers spent the night in ABC and on Saturday will start Ruchkin's route. (Route description http://www.mountain.ru/eng/climb/2004/ak-su/). Weather is good.
Damaris Knorr: Mortal Kombat 8b(+) in Castillion, France, is counted.
According 8a.nu Damaris Knorr has sent Mortal Kombat 8b(+) in Castillion, France. The route is known as a super classic and is also famous due to the onsight world record in 1999, by Yuji Hirayama who downgraded it from 8c to 8b+.
Simone Moro: we have sun
News from 25.01.2007
23.01.07. Valery Balezin's evening call: this night there happened a turn in fine weather. Snowfall and wind began. The two-man team decided to postpone their start and descend to base camp. Khvostenko's group hauled all the gear under the wall and tomorrow will return to BC too.
Nikolay Zakharov's comment: The guys hurry up, probably, they do not want to waste the time. It would be better if they ascend any near summit about 4500 meters for acclimatization. Chaplynsky's route is good, but it is harder than Moshnikov's one.
News from Simono Moro
23.01.2007. After 4 days of hard work on the mountain where we stopped at 6000 meters only 250 to Camp 2, we decided to come back to base camp, also because we will have 3 days of bad weather starting from tomorrow. We are tired but satisfied. Yesterday we spent a night at 5800 m (-40° degree) and today we climbed till 6000 but after the wind start to be strong and the clouds coming fast. The climb it is really serious without fix rope and every time the descent took us a lot of power and concentration. Starting from Sunday probably we will have 3-4 days of good weather and for us will be the most delicate part of our climb before attempting the summit of Broad Peak…
Simone Moro:From Broad peak winter expedition....
News from 22.01.2007
Ciao till tomorrow
Simone via Satellitephone
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All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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