Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Ak-Su Winter Expedition
22.01.07. Oleg Khvostenko's night call: the ABC is set at 3700. We decided not to dig a cave and only pitched a tent. This night Belyaev, Loginov, Rodikov, Arkhipov and Dmitrienko stay there. The others descended to BC and tomorrow will haul the rest gear. Vladimir and Evgeny are completely ready to start Chaplinsky's route tomorrow.
22.01.07. Oleg Khvostenko’s morning call: Yesterday we did not get the needed point. Today will set off for the second time.
20.01.07. Oleg Khvostenko’s call: at last we arrived and set BC at 2900. Tomorrow will set off to lift up the gear under the wall and set ABC. Some guys will stay in BC to make it more comfortable. Weather is good.
Jenny Lavarda and Markus Bendler win in Valle di Daone Italy -Ice Climbing World Cup 2007
Jenny Lavarda from Italy and Markus Bendler from Austria have won the first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup in Valle di Daone, Italy.
Simone Moro:From Broad peak winter expedition....
Date update: 22.01.2007
Valle di Daone Italy - Ice Climbing World Cup 2007
Daone + Ice Master: a meeting (and a bet) which repeats itself From Friday 19 January to Sunday 21 January the most famous international ice climbing competition in the world, the Ice Master World Cup, will take place in Italy's Valle di Daone. The competition is renowned not only because it now celebrates its sixth edition, but also thanks to what it has given to modern ice climbing. And it's no chance therefore that the UIAA has chosen Daone to "kick off" the international world cup circuit which, after the Daone debut, travels to Switzerland's Saas Fee and Romania's Bustemi.
The competition 2007
Once again two competitions are scheduled in Daone, the Difficulty and the Speed, both of which are valid for important World Cup points. Furthermore, the athletes will contend for the Ice Boulder World Championship title. This will be a sort of competition within the competion which takes place in the Difficulty Final on two special routes set specifically for bouldering (read short and extremely difficult). Talking of Ice Boulder, it is worth remembering that the first experiences of bouldering (famous in rock climbing) with ice axes and crampons were carried out here in Valle di Daone.
And those who can still remember the ice mushroom created specifically for bouldering will have to change perspective (and
angle) and imagine a horizontal roof... put in other words, the joy and pain of all ice climbers.
The competition structure
The new technique for 2007 (Daone traditionally always experiments with something new) are the special holds, created by Palstic Rock, which will allow for dry tooling up... granite - the very same that can be found in the valley. This, we believe, will make going tougher for the athletes, putting technique rather than brute force in the forefront. Maurizio Gallo - the inventor and driving force behind all frozen Ice Master structures - is convinced this will be the case.
With regards to the "torrid" temperatures experienced during this winter-come-spring, Gallo admits that conditions aren't the easiest to "fabricate" the ice. Nevertheless the ice masters have
(incredibly) managed to paste an ice layer onto the structure which is now ready for use. In Daone they're ready, regardless of the outside temperature, for a great competition! A competition in which the work of the route setters will prove to be fundamental, and once again the team is comprised of the "veterans" Daone Attilio Munari, Marco and Massimo da Pozzo, joined by Loris Manzana and Helmut Rauchenker.
Never before has Daone seemed so international, and this is due not only to the 5 Japanese ice climbers (2 women and 3 men) who registered as soon as registration was made possible. The 85 male athletes and 23 female athletes represent 15 nations... including Scotland, France, Spain, Germany, Sweden, Croatia, Switzerland, Slovenia, Russia, Czech republic, Bulgaria, Ukraine, Austria and obviously Italy and the athletes mentioned previously from the land of the rising sun... But the number is bound to rise. It has to be said that, just like every year, the best of the best will compete.
And here, it pains to say, our thoughts go to Harry Berger who is remembered by all in Daone. Here in the valley is was always a great key play, both for what he managed to achieve in the competition (an undisputed champion) and as a man... It's difficult to imagine an Ice Master without him.
Not only competition but also Ice Meeting As usual the Pareti di Cristallo committee views ice climbing as a resource and a "vocation" of the Valle di Daone, often remembered for it's a thousand waterfalls. And so this 2007 edition renews itself with the Montura International Ice Meeting Pareti di Cristallo from
19 to 28 January. Once again this is an opportunity for experts and ice climbing novices to meet in the valley to climb the routes and learn the techniques together with the Friends of Arco mountain guides. More than a hundred people participated in the meet last year and, building on this success, the meet has been extended for the entire week.
The competition starts tomorrow, and as usual the race is on for the climax, for the world ice climbing competition. The volunteers of the "Comitato Pareti di Cristallo" will continue ceaselessly to "create"
ice and the athletes will now begin to sharpen their axes. In the meantime though there are some who are thinking hard about how to render the athletes' lives just that bit (metaphorically) harder...
because a spectacular competition can only be achieved via difficult routes... and the Daone Ice Master has always been synonymous with sporting spectacle, powered by "true" ice climbing warriors.
Date update: 22.02.2007
Cristian Brenna and Herve Barmasse: on a way to Cerro Piergiorgio.
Next week a valdotain climber Herve Barmasse starts to Argentina to try his luck on Cerro Piergiorgio Northwest face, Patagonia, Fitz Roy region.
Last year Barmasse and his friend (and organizer of the expedition Luca Maspes) already made an attempt to climb Gringos Locos route, but were lucky to be alive after a serious collapse.
This time he plans Casimiro Ferrari route.
Cristian Brenna, Giovanni Onagro, Matteo Bernasconi and Dante Barlascina will keep him company.
Simone Moro has reached at last up to BC under Broad peak.
Simone Moro has reached at last up to base camp under Broad Peak settled at about 5000m.
"Last evening the temperature was negative 25Ñ and at night negative 30Ñ. There is not much snow, but the mountain condition - at first sight - is quite good, nevertheless, we can hear the howls of the wind bellowing above even here in BC.Simone Moro. Broad peak. D-day tomorrow?
Polish Nanga Parbat Expedition Winter 2006-2007: "We leave Nanga Parbat. The Mountain and weather conditions validate our decision"
Polish Nanga Parbat expedition's team led by none other than great climber Krzysztof Wielicki decided to bail the heroic winter attempt of Nanga Parbat, 8125m, the 9th highest mountain in the world.
Camp III is settled at 6800m in the middle of the rocky ridge along the long Schell Route, above the infamous Rupal face January 11.
Himountain Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition 2006-2007 team:
Krzysztof Wielicki: has summited all 14 8000m peaks, including 1st winter ascent of Everest, Lhotse and Kangchenjunga.
Jan Szulc: expedition leader of 1st winter asctent of Shisha Pangma, and K2 winter attempt
Jacek Berbeka: has summited 4 8000m peaks
Artur Hajzer: has summited 4 8000m peaks, including 1st winter ascent of Annapurna
Jacek Jawien: a member in K2 and Shisha Pagma winter expeditions.
Przemyslaw Lozinski: first Himalayan giant experience
Krzysztof Tarasewicz: has summited 3 8000m peaks
Dariusz Zaluski: has summited 4 8000m peaks, including winter attempts on K2, Makalu, Nanga Parbat and Shisha Pagma.
Robert Szymczak: Himalayan doctor
Tommy Heinrich (Australia): has summited Everest photographer
Ghulam Rasool (Pakistan): has summited Gasherbrum II twice
Hassan Sadpara (Pakistan): has summited all 5 8000ers in Pakistan, including K2 without oxygen.
Nanga Parbat (8125m)
Nanga Parbat was first climbed on 3 July 1953 by the Austrian Hermann Buhl (member of the Austrian/German expedition led by Herrligkoffer).
The mountains not climbed in winter:
Source: www.himountain.eu, www.planetmountain.com
Jorg Verhoeven: two 8b + on on-sight
Jorg Verhoeven, wiling away the winter in Spain, was not slow to take advantage of warm climate and on-sighted a pair of 8b + : "Falconetti" and "L-mens", both in Montsant area.
Jorg is a little bit confused about Spanish grading system - more than mild - he managed to flash Ingravids sherpa, 8c, and did CES ultima ola, 8c +second go.
The body of Charlie Fowler was found
On 27 December the body of Charlie Fowler that had been reported missing since early December was found at 5300m on the slopes of Mount Genyen, Sichuan, China.
Fowler, who was climbing in China together with Christine Boskoff, seems to be engulfed in the avalanche. Christine has not found yet, but experts do not lose hope.
Fowler's body was transported to the Lengu monastery before being flown home, while the search for Christine has been suspended due to the bad weather and probably will be start again in spring.
Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler were two of the strongest American mountaineers. After the Scott Fisher's tragic death in the storm on Everest 1996 Boskoff took over Mountain Madness. Fowler, a UIAGM Mountain Guide who worked for M.M., was an experienced guide and a excellent photographer and journalist.
Ak-Su 2007: Aim, Training, Teams, Routes.
Aim.Why is Ak-Su again? First, because Ak-Su exists. Second, we always consider climbers' wishes making choice of ascent. This winter we had three variants: Ushba, Elbrus region, Caucasus, Russia, but in connection with recent escalation of political conflict with Georgia we postponed this ascent for the future peak 4810 in Pamir, or Ak-Su. The majority voted for Ak-Su. From 9 climbers of sports structure only Evgeny Dmitrienko was on the summit.
But in fact the Ak-Su North face is challenge and affected, I know that in my own.
Training. The team has trained seriously - as usual climbed a lot. This year there were added more endurance exercises - every week cross on mountain area. And before departure we took part in a traditional Christmas Competition: in individual climbing, climbing on "khitrushka"s (The Krasnoyarians call "khitrushka" a bouldering problem) and mountain marathon.
Teams. One two-man team: Evgeny Dmitrienko- Vladimir Arkhipov. Evgeny dreams to climb the wall solo or in a two-man team in winter for a long time and Vladimir Arhipov is the most reliable partner. To tell the truth, Vladimir managed to shout the first: "I will climb with Evgeny!"
And the traditional team of six climbers led by Oleg Khvostenko: mainly young, but already experienced in winter wall climbing guys are under his command.
Evgeny Belyaev (1983), Igor Loginov (1985), Alexey Kommissarov (1984) three together summited Erydag via Efimov's route last winter Boris Rodikov (1981) led during Matterhorn ascent in winter and peak 4810 climb in summer 2005 Vladimir Gun'ko (1983) was the leader on the wall of Pogrebetsky's peak in summer in Denis Prokof'ev's (1974) bag peaks Krasnoyarsky Krai and Tsarsky Throne in Kodar.
Routes will be chosen in situ after expecting the condition of the wall. Preliminary Evgeny Dmitrienko - Vladimir Arkhipov look narrowly Moshnikov's route and the sextet- Odintsov - Ruchkin's line. The main purpose - to climb the hard beautiful routes in good style and fast enough for winter season.
N.Zakharov, the coach
Simone Moro. Broad peak. D-day tomorrow?
Simone Moro has to kick heels in Pakistan for 17 days because of different delays and protractions and, at last, hopes to get aboard the helicopter and arrive in base camp under Broad Peak.
"Such a long wait could easily kill ambition and motivation - but not mine. Winter ends March 21, and I'm ready to wait and play my cards till that date."
Nevertheless, life in Skardu is not the most comfortable: "There is no water in the houses, no water in the only hotel opened this season (where I stay) ... They give me 10 liters of boiled water each morning to last me through the day. Power blackouts are frequent, as everybody in the city use electric heathers, and there is not enough power for them all. I have to charge all my tech com batteries in the night and other off peak times."
Simone Moro, 38, North Face team, in his bag: Everest (three times), Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma (winter), Lhotse (twice) and five "7-thousanders", first winter climb of Marble Wall 6400 m, Tien Shan, a 24-hour climb on Fitz Roy's West Face , Patagonia.
On January, 14, 2005 Simone and Piotr Morawski summited Shisha Pangma after a fast 5-hour high-speed climb in storm winds. It was his fifth winter climb: in 1993 he successfully climbed on Aconcagua and Cerro Mirador (new route in alpine style), in December, 1997 - the tragic attempt on Annapurna when Anatoly Bukreev died, and in 2001 in a two-man team with Denis Urubko - on Marble Wall, Tien Shan.
None of the Pakistan's "8-thousanders" (K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II) have been summited in winter. While in Nepal, only Makalu remains still unclimbed in winter. This year, Pakistan's government has reduced the winter climbing fee to a nominal 5%.
8b + trad from Dave MacLeod
Dave MacLeod has climbed one more not trivial trad route Blind Vision 8b + or E10 7b in Frogatt Edge.The last April Dave opened Rhapsody and suggested 8c + (or E11, his film is of the same name), that is the world record in trad-climbing.
List of the hardest trad routes climbed for today is attached below.
A Little Peculiar a.k.a. Elegy Direct 8c / E6 7b Paul Higginson
Zodiac 8b/8b + Huberbaum
Valle di Daone Ice Master runs on January, 19-21
The traditional Ice Master - most famous international ice climbing world competition assembling the strongest athletes of ice-climbing runs on January, 19-21 in Valle di Daone.
On the programme: lead, speed and bouldering.
In parallel, Montura International Ice Meeting Pareti di Cristallo takes place on January, 19-28.
The 16th Piolet d'or celebrates the Himalayas in true alpine style
The ceremony of the 16th Piolet d'or will take place on January 26th in Grenoble, in the Alpes-Congrès Hall, at 8 pm, and will celebrate five great mountaineering achievements which took place in 2006. True to the spirit of the great expeditions of the history of mountaineering, all were carried out in pure alpine style, on unexplored itineraries of major Himalayan mountains.
Pavle Kozjek (Slovenia), is nominated for his solo opening of a new itinerary up the south-western face of the Cho Oyu (8210 m, Nepal), in less than fifteen hours.
Ian Parnell and Tim Emmett (United Kingdom), for opening a new itinerary up the south-eastern pillar of the Kedarnath Dome (6 830m, India).
Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic (Slovenia), for the first ascent of the north-western pillar of the Chomo Lhari (7 326 m, Tibet).
Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (Kazakhstan), for opening the north-eastern face of the Manaslu (8 163m, Nepal).
Igor Chaplinsky, Andrey Rodiontsev and Orest Verbitsky (Ukraine), for the first ascent of the northern ridge of the Shingu Charpa (5600m Pakistan).
Invited in Grenoble by the French monthly Montagnes Magazine, the five teams will present their respective achievements to the public before the jury awards the Piolet d'or to the team whose expedition best embodies the values of modern mountaineering: calculated risk taking, high technical performance, economy of means, respect of the human and natural environment.
Presided by the Russian Yuri Koshelenko (Piolet d'or 2003), this year's international jury will be composed of the Swiss mountaineer Michel Piola, of the Americans Steve House and Vince Anderson (Piolet d'Or 2005), of Christian Trommsdorff (France), and of the journalists Im Duck Yong (Korea), founder of the Asian Piolet d'or, Vinicio Stefanello (Italy) and the editorial staff of Montagnes Magazine (France).
This year, the Piolet d'or further broadens its audience, with a televised retransmission. This great moment of the mountaineering calendar will celebrate, once again, the spirit of companionship and solidarity, and the beauty of an exceptional mountaineering achievement, in front of a community of climbers from all nations, free from political and institutional considerations.
Press release available on request from Montagnes Magazine :
Promotion, organisation :
Ak-Su-2007. The Krasnoyarians are going to make attack in two teams: a two-man one and a traditional "sextet"
Ak-Su-2007. This time there are two Krasnoyarian teams: E.Dmitrienko and V.Arkhipov will climb in a two-man team and O.Hvostenko, E.Belyaev, V.Gunko, I.Loginov, D.Prokof'ev, B.Rodikov - in a traditional "sextet".
We wish good weather, success and the victory be their!
Lhotse South face. Almost successful winter attempt
Lhotse South face. Almost successful winter attempt A Japanese team of six climbers at an active participation of the members of Korean expedition and sherpas has climbed Lhotse South face. They gave up the attempt and descended in only 40 meter distance up to the summit.
The expedition started in September. Having àacclimatized on Shishapangma during the September and October (no summit) the team set up base camp on the Lhotse glacier at the foot of the wall at 5250 meters on November 12 together with a Korean expedition intent on the same route.
Camp I, at 5900m was settled on November, 18, camp II, at 7100m - on December, 1.
The first summit push by the Japanese-Korean team undertaken on December 24 failed due to a storm wind (70êì/hour) and heavy snowing.
On Christmas Day Tanabe, Takahiro Yamaguchi and Sherpa Pemba Chorten, reached Camp III at 8000 meters.
On December 27 they reached the summit ridge (8475 meters) at about 15:30 but realized they could not safely gain the 8516-meter summit and they had to give up their attempt and descend camp III. At 16:17 exhausted by their efforts continued to descend.
In spite of the fact that the Nepalese calendar winter begins on December, 1 and comes to an end on February, 15, the winter climbing season can be counted from December, 21 till March, 20, that is why Tanabe's summit attempt would not consider as a winter climb.
For today the only line Lhotse South face recognized to have been climbed on is the Soviet Direttissima opened by a National team of the USSR in 1990.
The only climber reached the Lhotse Main summit in winter is Krzysztof Wielicki soloed the classical route on the West face on December 31, 1988.
Birmingham Mountain Film Festival runs on January, 25-27 On January, 25 Birmingham Mountain Film Festival will start in Birmingham of course :-) .
On the programme:
Andy Kirkpatrick: talking and showing the unique big wall demos Dave MacLeod: "E11", the awarded film-winner (Moscow public had an opportunity to estimate it due to Alexander Orlov's heroic conduct) Best of Kendal Film Festival 2006
Date update: 19.01.2007
The team is forced to bail. The guys come back.
Georgy Kozlov reports on January, 8 2007:
Date update: 9.01.2007
The Pou brothers reach the summit of Fitz Roy and the 6th stage of their proyect
Last saturday at 4h30PM, Iker and Eneko reached the summit of Fitz Roy with argentinian climber Fernando Irrazabal.
Pou Brothers website : www.pouanaiak.com
Related links :
SERVICE PRESSE http://www.kairn.com
Date update: 19.01.2007
Demchenko Club Expedition: Shkhelda Winter 2007.
Georgy Kozlov reports on January, 5 2007:
Georgy Kozlov reports on January, 4 2007:
National team candidates for UIAA Climbing European Boulder Championship - Birmingham (GBR), 16-18.03.2007
The structure is authorized by Russian rock-climbing federation Board.
Patagonia expedition race
From the far south of the world, the PATAGONIA EXPEDITION RACE Organization wishes you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, may it be full of great adventures and unforgettable experiences - those that define our character and the way we face life. We will keep on working in order to grant you the opportunity of living unique yet intense experiences in the midst of magical and impressive nature, far away from civilization.
Athletes from France, Spain, United States, Canada, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina and Chile have already confirmed their participation in the next edition of PATAGONIA EXPEDITION RACE, starting next February 11th 2007… Registration is still open to apply for the final slots you must follow the instructions described in:
With only three previous editions, PATAGONIA EXPEDITION RACE has already positioned itself as one of the most followed events in the world today it is in second place amongst the top 100 most important adventure races according to the popularity ranking presented by the Alexa Website (Amazon), one of the top notch statistics websites on the Internet.
New speed record on Aconcagua : 7h52min from Horcones to the summit!
Spanish asturian climber Jorge Egocheaga did the 87kms and 4159m Up and down in 14h5min 54sec. The old record was nearly one hour more.
The 44kms and 4159m of the way up were done in only 7h 52min.
Source: www.barrabes.com & www.Kairn.com
Kalymnos roc trip video
For the new year and to keep our climbing motivation high on a snowy day The New Petzl roc trip video of Kalymnos is now online at www.petzl.com enjoy and spread the word to your friends also on google video look for http://video.google.fr/videosearch?q=annot an underground video made by Phillipe Ribiére (éditing and music) during a team trip in Annot, in case you're looking for a house there...
See you all out there
Laurent de la Fouchardiere
Date update: 19.01.2007
Demchenko Club Expedition: Shkhelda Winter 2007. The first news: "The Wall is mindbending the line of the route is impressive".
"On December 26 the team arrived in Dzhantugan mountaineering camp (1800 m). A blizzard and a snowfall met the guys. The bus reached only up to "Elbrus" Control Training Center (2050 m).
Further they took another seat at UAZ vehicle - Russian 4X4. On December, 27 the guys got up to the monument at 2930 m, and could see the Wall and the planned route. It was cold. The Wall is mindbending the line of the route is challenge impressive.
Source: Georgy Kozlov
GHM retire from Piolet d'Or 2007
Since 1990, Le Groupe de Haute Montagne s the most significant ascent of the year in the world of elite alpinism. An expert board chooses between the alpinists nomitated and s the winner of the « Piolet d’Or », the most covered award in mountain climbing.
The Piolet d'Or has been awarded from the beginning by the joint efforts of the GHM, Guy Chaumereuil and Montagne Magazine, co-founders of the prize and each of them responsible for his specific area of expertise in the event .
After several years of co-management, the last ones with increasing relational dificulties, the GHM realized that, despite all the conciliatory skills of Guy Chaumereuil, the necessary respect and confidence needed for the award of the Piolet d'Or are now impossible with Mountain Magazine. Upon reaching these conclusions, the GHM decided not to contribute to the 2007 award.
Montagne Magazine said that this withdrawal doesn’t matter and that the Piolet d’Or 2007 will take place as usual.
G.H.M. sincerely regrets that the 2006 performance, as valid as the ones from the precedent years, cannot get the benefit of its official recognition. Nominees know the respect and credit given them by the GHM.
Merry Christmas Western and Orthodox and Happy New Year! Especially for those who are not going to have a challenge trip :-)
Here have come the good-for-nothing days of attentive cards, bustling for gifts (to wives, husbands, former, present, he, she, children of different beds, parents from both sides, just friends or girlfriends), a frozen scanty fairly priced wood beauty-tree, glare, ornaments, teenagers with petards at the front door, ice-rink, tangerines, drinks, not to be drunk at the wheel, bad celebratory company, dreams, acquaintances, lantern snow... but everything seemed to have a good start... picturesque stories about your old days made you to be a bit awkward and surprised, but you get used to that, aspirin for your head, salads, and sad thoughts that your life is passing by.
And thai is why you have not taken care about the tickets to the fine distant corners. Demchenko club- to Caucasus, Kostrov's family - to Thailand, Orlov & C- to Sinai, Dobrinsky, of course, - to America and even Gustav is going to the Crimea.
We would like to wish Merry Christmas Western and Orthodox and Happy New Year to everybody but especially for forced to sit home :-)
We always keep in touch with you :-) , go round us,
Die Hard IV. 4th Red Bull Romaniacs, 17th – 21st June 2007
World Champion Harald Berger died during iceclimbing
World Champion in ice climbing Harald Berger died under the fall of ice mass in Austria yesterday during his training of ice climbing.
Austrian Harald Berger (34 years old) was known mainly as the elite ice climber. He was the tripled World Champion. In its climbig diary one can find plenty of hard ascents in domestic Berchstesgaden Alps, Ratikon or for example this year?s expedition to Madagaskar, where together with Czech elite climbers Tomas Sobotka and Ondra Benes and his Austrian climbing partner Floe Scheimpflug climbed first ascent Shortcut 7c+. He wisited with them also Czech traditional climbing sandstone area in Labe walley.
Source: climbing.de, czechclimbing.com
Martina Cufar: Bitka s stalaktiti, 8b + á second go
Martina Cufar repeated the 55-meter route Bitka s stalaktiti (Battle with stalactites), 8b +, paved in a cave at Osp, Slovenia.
The route is rather "fresh" and goes via a series of fragile tufas. It was bolted and first climbed by Matej Sova and Klemen Becan.
Martina needed two attempts to succeed and then commented that the style of the route was closer to climbing in Kalymnos, the Greek island, than in the neighboring area Misja Pec.
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All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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