Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
UIAA European Championship, Ekaterinburg, Russia.
Russian national team:
Olga Bibik, Krasnoyarsk
Julia Abramchuk, Saint Petersburg
Tatyana Tarasova, Saint Petersburg - Togliatti
Ksenia Alekseeva, Miass
Anna Gallyamova, Ekaterinburg
Yana Chereshneva, Krasnoyarsk
Yana Chereshneva, Krasnoyarsk
Ksenia Alekseeva, Miass
Ekaterina Malysheva, Saint Petersburg
Evgenya Malamid, Voronezh
Ekaterina Korolkova, Krasnoyarsk
Alexandra Bud Gusaim
Alexandra Bud Gusaim
UIAA European Championship in Ekaterinburg, Russia. 29.06.-03.07.2006. Disgraced Alex Shabot is on parade again.
The most titled climber of all ages and nations, Alex Shabot, discharged of participation in Big Cup for his conflict with the French climbing association FFME regarding sponsorship in the last moment is admitted to take part in the European Championship.
French national team:
In MEN and WOMEN speed French national team traditionally does not announce taking part.
Masherbrum. Alexander Odintsov is evacuated in Skardu
Alexander Odintsov, the leader of Masherbrum team, is evacueted in Skardu with presumptive diagnosis: acute viral hepatitis.
The Bhagirathi' and Jannu' scenarios are repeated.
So the life is only starting
Doc. M. Bakin
Olga Bibik and David Lama Win in Hall.
Date update: 28.06.2006
Victor Volodin leaves the Grand Jorasses Expedition team due to his injury.
Yesterday, Victor Volodin, the president of Demchenko Alpinist club met with an bicycle-car accident.
26.06.06. Good afternoon! There in nothing important for today and I would like to describe a little our life here.
As it was earlier informed, Base camp is settled on Yermanendu glacier.
Hardly closer to one of the glacier walls there is a moraine line where actually the camp is located.
If to look downwards, we can see a pyramid-shaped mountain Ê2 that towers above all mountains.
Today all the climbers set off for a reco of the acclimatization route, safe lines of approaching to the wall.
UIAA Climbing European Championship 2006 Ekaterinburg (Russia), June 29 - July 3
1. ORGANISATION: Climbing Federation of Russia: 8, Luzhnetskaya Nab., Moscow, 119992, Russia, tel/fax: + 7 495 725 47 04
2. PARTICIPATION in each event:
IMPORTANT: Those competitors whose Federation have not applied for a 2006 International Licence will not be allowed to compete!
4. Deadline for registration: 16:00 GMT Sunday 18 June 2006.
5. PRIZE: According to UIAA Climbing Standards
6. COMPETITION VENUE: Palace of sport games. Eremina str., 10
7. TRAVEL DETAILS: by plane: Fly to Ekaterinburg - KOLTSOVO Airport. All teams will be met in Airport and transported to the Hotel. All participants will be provided with transport during the competitions. The charge for the transport service has not been calculated but will be in the region of 15-20 Euro's per person.
VISA. The procedure to produce an official invitation requires minimum two weeks as well to make the visas in Russian consulate requires two weeks more. In order to get Russian visas you have to send the following information as soon as possible:
1. Legible copy of one passport page (with Surname, Name, Date of birth, Passport No, Issue/Expiry Date)
NOTE: Please ask Russian consulate in your country: is it necessary to have an original invitation (or fax will be enough)? Please inform us by firstname.lastname@example.org about this.
Notice: Prices are given without a discount. The hotel will provide a discount to organizers. The more people will stay in the hotel the more discount would be. In order to determine final price please make preliminary reservation by email@example.com as soon as possible.
Deadline for the final reservation - May, 29 th.
9. Provisional programme
Wednesday 28th June 2006
Friday 30th June 2006
Sunday 2nd July 2006
International Disabled Athletes climbing competition
Great success at Arco for the 5th Rock Junior: hundreds of young climbers protagonists of this authenic sport's festival.
Arco 18/06/2006. The fifth edition of the Rock Junior which took place here in Arco on Saturday 17 and Sunday 18 June proved to be an authentic climbing celebration for the young as hundreds of children played this vertical game, non-stop, for two entire fun-packed days. The most important international youth climbing festival, organised as always by the Rock Master Association, clearly belonged to the future generation.
Just like every year climbers travelled to Arco from as far a field as Russia and Great Britain, Slovenia and Austria, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Germany, Luxemburg and, naturally, Italy. A fantastic "populous" aged 5-13, united by this vertical passion, which gathered together at the Climbing Stadium to climb and discover nature at the nearby rocky habitat. But there was more in store for them: they climbed the bouncy castles and across the great Rock Junior vertical park and naturally competed in the Kid's Rock and the Family Rock relay event.
And of course they took part in the Under 14 Cup, the international competition for the best European youth squads which took place on the legendary Rock Master wall, which hosts the oldest and most spectacular sports climbing competition. Many of these budding athletes will no doubt have dreamt of competing here in the future, and for some of them reality could be a lot closer than they might think. It comes as no surprise therefore that the Under 14 Cup saw some true rising stars competing on the routes set by Donato Lella and Leonardo Di Marino, two route setters who, unsurprisingly, are not only the official Rock Master route setters but also route setters for many of the most important international climbing competitions worldwide.
All three female competitions turned out beautifully and all three needed a fought-out Superfinal to produce a clear winner. Category "A" ('93 / '94) was won by Katharina Poll from Austria ahead of her teammate Elisabeth Gruebler. Category B ('95 / '96) was won by Iva Vejmolova from the Czech Republic ahead of Karoline Sinnhuber from Austria, while the youngest Category C ('97 / '99),was won by Miriam Martini from Italy, who beat Hannah Schubert from Austria.
Max Rudigier won the male A Category by on-sighting both routes, and the Austrian beat the Italians Stefano Ghisolfi and Marcello Bombardi, 2nd and 3rd respectively. Andràs Kiraly climbed highest of all in Category B and he beat Hans Moritz from Germany and Markus Ladurner from Italy. Category C was won by Jakub Svub from Slovenia, ahead of Ruben Firnenburg and Randy Roby, both from Germany.
The Speed event was won once again by Max Rudigier (Category A) and Jakub Svub (Category C) while the fastest of Category B was Hans Moritz. The Category A female event was won by Pia Mechik from Austria ahead of Anna Gislimberti from Italy. Margherita Dallabrida and Miriam Martini, both from Italy, won their categories B and C respectively.
These young and even younger athletes will no doubt write sport climbing history one day. In the meantime though one thing is certain: they were all protagonists of this fantastic Rock Junior 2006. From the young champions of the spectacular Under 14 Cup to those children who competed for the very first time this weekend in the Kid's Rock or climbed and discovered the Colodri's rocky secrets: this was their weekend. There were thousands here at Arco this weekend, all were happy to be here, to climb and compete together. This is without a doubt what the Rock Junior is all about and its best and most beautiful aspect.
The Rock Junior Team
Rock Junior is organised by the Rock Master Association with the indispensable support of: Arco Town Council, Autonomous Province of Trento, the Region of Trentino Alto Adige, InGarda, Cassa Rurale Alto Garda, Azienda Municipalizzata Sviluppo di Arco, La Sportiva, Cassin, The North Face, Vertical Sport, Sint Roc & Ecogrip, Pareti, PlanetMountain.com.
The collaboration and support of the following professional bodies is fundamental in guaranteeing the safety of the participants: the Mountain rescue and Guardia di Finanza, Centro Addestramento Alpino della Polizia, Soccorso Alpino della SAT di Arco, della Scuola di Alpinismo e del Gruppo Alpinismo Giovanile della SAT di Arco, the Friends of Arco Mountain Guides and the ArcoClimbing Sports Climbing Association.
A special thanks for the successful outcome goes to the route setters Leonardo Di Marino and Donato Lella and to Andrea Gris from Radio Cortina and Saskia Engelhardt, the insatiable speakers who animated these two 2006 Rock Junior days.
INFO AND PHOTOS OF THE ROCK JUNIOR ON http://WWW.ROCKJUNIOR.INFO
Masherbrum. "Russian way - World Wall"
Hello all those who follows our expedition "Masherbrum - Russian way - World
We left Moscow (11.06) for Islamabad (12.06).
0n June, 16 we arrived in Scardu, the sacred place of all
Everything is going right way.
Date update: 19.06.2006
Russian comes :) Fresh news from Odintsov's Team
They are in Scardu, everything is going well: cognac has being admited, cargo has being got, so the fellows feel fine
Read more: Masherbrum. Before departure. Portfolio
Date update: 20.06.2006
Masherbrum. Before departure
During their second successive ascent Manaslu Denis Urubko and Sergey Samoilov, Kazakhstan openned a new route (marked at the photo).
On May, 9 they descended to BC.
Bouldering. The following stage UIAA-ICC Bouldering World Cup 2006 runs in Grindelwald, Switzerland.
When the Russians are celebrating Independence Day the following stage UIAA-ICC Bouldering World Cup 2006 will run in Grindelwald.
Russian team: Olga Bibik (the leader of the Cup), Julia Abramchuk, Ksenia Alekseeva, Salavat Rakhmetov, Rustam Gelmov, Alexey Portsev.
Caroline Ciavaldini: 8b onsight
Somebody competes in climbing gyms, somebody drinks impure air in city parks, c'est la vie. Our lucky overseas brothers and sisters spend their days off on rocks and boulders and without turning a hair harp on their successes: Caroline Ciavaldini has onsighted A bout de souffle, 8b, and also a couple of 8à lines. A bout de souffle is not her first 8b onsight. Last year the young French onsighted Millenium, 8b, in Sardinia.
She is the third in the ICC world ranking.
Extraordinary Plenary Assembly in Frankfurt
An Extraordinary Plenary Assembly has been called by the UIAA Climbing Management Committee for July 15th, in Frankfurt, Germany.
The purpose is to discuss the Olympic dream and the way to achieve the Olympic Program status, decide the position of UIAA Climbing about options for restructuring the UIAA and inform in due time the General Assembly about this decision
Valery Rozov. Russian BASE in America
Valery Rozov: "Yesterday I made BASE jump from El Capitan, the day before yesterday - from Half Dome":)
Canadian Ê2 Expedition.
Mario Dutil and Maxime Jean declared their ambition to become the first Canadians climbed the "first" and the "second" "8-thousanders" of the world, Everest and Ê2, at one go.
On June, 2, the take off to Islamabad (Pakistan), and therefrom straight to K2 base camp at 5400m.
Flags of Israel and Palestine on Everest
Israeli climber David "Doudou" Yfrah, a member of an international team consisted of ten mountaineers from seven countries, summited Everest and got there the flags of two states: Israel and Palestine, for peace on Earth.
194 mountaineers have summited Everest this season
Katmandu, May, 29. From 17 teams possessing a permit to climb Everest issued by the Nepalese authorities 194 mountaineers from 25 countries have summited Everest this season as of 28.05.06. From them: 104 - the Nepalese, 19 - the Americans and 16 - the British.
The representatives of India, South Korea, Poland, New Zealand, Switzerland, Philippines, Australia, Southern Africa, France, China, Bolivia, Austria, Germany, Brazil, Russia, Malaysia, Singapore, Italy and Belgium have also ascended the Roof of the World.
8ñ onsight by Ramon JULIAN PUIGBLANQUE.
Ramon JULIAN PUIGBLANQUE has onsighted Suma, 8c, in Cuenca. The 32-meter route includes a 10-meter overhang.
Earlier only Tomas Mrazek and Patxi Usobiaga have onsighted 8ñ. Sending White Zombie by Yuji Hirayama remains disputable.
Simone Moro. Lhotse-2006
News from 25.05.2006
I am back in Kathmandu concluding my Mount Everest South-North traverse. I have defined my legal status with the Chinese authorities, and I was strongly admonish for the border violation. I recommend do not to repeat the traverse and every kind of unauthorized mountaineering. It was a great and difficult mountaineering adventure ending with a complicated legal story.
After spending two nights on the South Col at 8000 m, on the South Side of Mount Everest, I was forced to decided to change my previous decision do NOT to use oxygen. I started climbing on May 19 th at 11.00 pm, I reached the top at 3.15 am with just the help of my headlamp. The darkness, the extreme cold temperature and orienteering difficulties affected me at 8848 m. I went on my lonely descent from the summit following the fix ropes along the Tibetan side. The rope was covered by the snow and the track was often hidden from the wind of the previous days. Looking for the way down it has been complicated but necessary. Alone in the dark I had to prove my orienteering skills and my endurance. Even so, at 8.30 I arrived safe in ABC at 6400 m, Tibetan side. I was firstly hosted by the Italian expedition, and then by the Russian organization “7 Summits club” leaded by Mr. Abramov. I avoid here to describe all the bureaucratic chronicles about my regular came back to Nepal.
A special thanks to my friend and Italian researcher Maria Luisa Nodari, who came helping me after my phone call. Without her help, language skills and knowledge the problems to be solved would have been bigger and harder. I consider her as my climbing partner of my South-North Mount Everest traverse.
Philippe Gondoux did his first 9a with the first ascent of Ali Baba at Rodellar
Located at Rodellar, in the Ali Baba cave, this route was bolted by Dani Andrada who did not do it.
Philippe Gondoux redpoint it last saturday and gave us his feeling :
European Youth Cup - Imst (AUT), May 27-28 2006
On May 27-28 2006 , European Youth Cup medals will be led up in Imst, Austria.
Everest. Totmyanin and Tel'puk today should descend to ABC
Igor Kuleshov: " Last night at about 17.00 Nepalese time, we talked with Nikolay Totmyanin by phone. He's OK. Vladimir Tel'puk from Belarus summited Everest with him. They planned to spend the night at 7900. And today are going to reach ÀBC ".
Source: Royal Mount Travel, Katmandu, Nepal
Everest. Totmyanin summited Everest without using supplementary oxygen
On May, 23 2006 Nikolay Totmyanin summited Everest without using supplementary oxygen. Alexey Bolotov and Sergey Surmonin reached 8000 and began to descend. Boris Korshunov refused a summit push and remained in ABC.
Maksut Zhumaev and Vladimir Pivtsov: Annapurna Summit!
Everest. Sergey Kofanov: "... I could not do anything. A client has just died on my hands... "
Sergey Kofanov (7 Summits Club Team): "I could not do anything. A client from Russia has just died on my hands at 7900 m. Climbing Everest is no picnic"
Sergey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze are on their way home May, 20 2006.
May, 19 2006. One more night in base camp and we continue to descend to the valley. The trek back is well organized by porters. The problem of the maoists was solved yesterday.
May, 18, 2006 Descent. SMS 19.10 MOSCOW TIME: we descended to BC. The mountain seems not to want to let us off. The forecast on May 18 is bad. All the night long a strong wind flapped our tents. Exhausted we set off in the morning like being auto-controlled and orientated on the rope and landmarks, snow impulses into our faces in addition. We could not find camp 1 first time, and then there were three more hours in such condition up to base camp.
Valeri Babanov: expedition is closed up
Tomas Olsson’s body discovered at 6700 mMay 21, 2006
According to reports from BC, Tomas Olsson’s body was discovered yesterday at about 6700 meters around 9:30 pm Bejing time. He was reported to have fallen about 2500 meters.
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All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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