newsclimbski & snowboardadventurephotossearch


Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Simone Moro. Lhotse-2006

Hi, I’m really too angry…. I reached the end of the fixropes and had a really bad surprise…. my rucksack was not there, with everything inside!!! I reached camp 3 in about 2 ½ hours and I felt perfect, but now??? I don’t have a downjacket here, somebody stole everything, my iceaxes (and I have not one more in base camp), my prototype tend from TNF, my downjacket, my sleeping bag, my batteries for the satellite phone, my walkie-talkies, everything is gone!!! My moral collapsed, also because the plan was to reach 8000 and more tomorrow…. My last hope is that a sherpa move my rucksack to another place, but I just looked for it for more than 40 minutes…. Nothing…


News: 04.05-05.05, 27.04, 24.04, 21.04, 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

Base Camp
Simone Moro. Lhotse-2006

News from 04.05.2006. Only 60 minutes flight and I'm again in Base camp. I left the comfort and the chaos of Kathmandu and now I'm in the silence, 4000 meters higher than the capital. The flight and the view had been wonderful.

Today, in fact, I returned to my tend after the 2 days spent to help Walter Berard to organize his medical visit in the hospital and work on the bureaucracy to organize his flight back to Italy and to contact the insurance company to start the procedure to cover the expenses of the rescue…Now Walter feel much better. He is strong and he had only impact traumas but no other injury.

Tomorrow I will climb to the high camp and in 3 days I dream to reach, if I feel good, the 8000 meters... We will see....

Ciao Simone

News from 05.05.2006. Simone via SMS from camp 2:
24 hours ago I left Kathmandu and now I’m here at 6400 meters in camp 2. Today I felt good and in 3 hours and 49 minutes I reached camp 2 starting from the base camp. Now it’s snowing, but in the morning the weather was quite good. For tomorrow and after tomorrow the weather forecast is similar, but Monday the weather will became worse.

Ciao Simone

News: 27.04, 24.04, 21.04, 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

All photos (number: 4)

Bogomolov and Tortladze, Manaslu: "I have not seen such Manaslu for two years"

The ideal weather is holding since the morning. I have not seen such Manaslu for two years. It might be an irremissible sin not to take advantage of that. At 8.00 we set off for camp 1. Well, most recently we thought to have a long rest

News: 27.0425-26.04, 24.04, 21.04, 22.04, 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

Corinne Theroux has got back from her ten-day trip across Iran where he taught Iranian women in rock-climbing.

Corinne Theroux, rock-climbing champion of France, one of the lead world bouldering climbers, has got back from her ten-day tour in Iran where he taught about 15 Iranian women in rock-climbing.

There was not any difficulty in communication: Iranian women did not talk about policy and about the American interference in the affairs of their country, but took an active interest in climbing technique and climbing veiled when a man came into a gym.
"They are short of freedom. There is only one man - husband - in their world. Even I for 10 days visited a restaurant once while Jerome Meyer engaged with boys - climbers was having a good time on full: skied and participated in various parties...
In general, this trip became an excellent lesson for me. I met very cheerful, happy women. They seem much happier than Europeans. They tested my gear and I tried on their clothes:)

The girls told me that they would like to be trained or take part in competitions outside the country very much, now I wish to help them but it is impossible now to organize that."


Bogomolov and Tortladze 27.04
For the last three days we did the matter of great consequence: pitched the camp at 6500m, hauled gear there. This day German and Japanese teams headed right there. Weather became to be more cheerful. Everything is proceeding according to plan.

News: 25-26.04, 24.04, 21.04, 22.04, 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

Be born to climb. World Cup BOULDERING 3RD ROUND runs in sunny Italy. Rovereto waits!

On May, 12-14 in Rovereto, Italy, World Cup 2006 BOULDERING 3RD ROUND will take place.
For today the leaders (after Birmingham and Veliko Tatnovo) are Olga Bibik, Kilian Fischhuber and Jerome Meyer.
In parallel the Cup organizers open competitions under the common idea "Bouldering - For Everyone" and a serious congress under a slogan "Born to climb" in partnership with psychotherapists, osteopathes, psychologists, doctors, technical directors etc. devoted to researching characteristics of the individuums "born to climb". We are conscious of being watched (ñ) :)

Check out on the Mountain.RU:
Bulgaria. World Cup: BOULDERING 2ND ROUND. Champion's Impressions
Olga Bibik. Impressions after World Cup in Birmingham


Simone Moro. Lhotse-2006

News from 24.04.2006
Third day of antibiotic therapy and tooth continues to pain. Yesterday I phoned to my Dentist Fabrizio Gamba and he told me that it is an inflammation under the artificial tooth I get since 3/4 years. That's why I started a 5 days cycle of Antibiotic and this is also the reason why I'm still in base camp. The pain become strong if I press vertically the tooth  (when I eat the paint become unsupportable) but  during the day the pain is no so bad.....

Today I planned to go to C2 and tomorrow to C3, but as I told I prefer to finish the antibiotic therapy here at base camp. The forecast for next days is also quite bad. 

Here at base camp the life is going as usual and there are always many things to do. The news we get from Kathmandu said that slowly the situation is returning toward the normal life. The democracy process started again and we hope that the King will not influence the decision of the people and the parliament. Also the Maoist has to be invited at the table to discuss their position and find a solution.

Today my Polish friends with whom I'm sharing base camp services and Everest permit reached C2. They will remain there for 2 days and maybe after that period they will attempt to go C3.

Today, for the first time I will show their faces and names.


News: 24.04, 21.04, 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

All photos (number: 4)

Date update: 28.04.2006
Manasku. Bogomolov and Tortladze: have descended to BC.
We are forced to give way...

We have descended to base camp. Denis and Sergey are there too after their summit. Hopelessness! All the night it was snowing, zero visibility. We had been staying and waiting till 9.00 when it began to tighten from below.
The mood is varying. There comes change of phases of the Moon: we have to leave. We hauled the main gear at 6500m. Everything is OK.

April, 25, 2006
Bogomolov and Tortladze: "We run the snow blockade"

"Today we run the snow blockade in camp 1.
Set off at 6:00 and climbed up to 6500 m, in middle camp. There is a lot of work there, a lot of snow.
At last they have united participants of the team, but all the same the climbers carry tents Ft one or two, and in fact there is a good collective practice. Everything is OK".

Sergey Bogomolov

News: 24.04, 21.04, 22.04, 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

Manaslu, Urubko, Samoilov: Summit!

Yesterday the Kazakhstan climbers Denis Urubko and Sergey Samoilov summited Mt. Manaslu at 11:45 (local time). The guys spent the night at 7450m and today plan to descend to ÂÑ.

Denis and Sergey became the first climbers managed to climb Manaslu during the period of "calm" since 2003.


Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro. Lhotse-2006

News from 24.04.2006

Hallo friends!
The weather remain quite good, even the blue sky for all the day remain a memory of last weeks. Tomorrow the polish group with whom I have the Everest climbing permit, will climb to C1 and the day after to C2. There are 4 days that I'm here in base camp and unfortunately since yesterday one of my tooth begin to pain. Sheet! So I started a antibiotic treatment, that will go one for 5 days. Tomorrow I will remain here due no progress had been made above C2 and I went there solo with my 26kg pack in 4 hours 20 min, organising my camp, spending 3 nights already last week. Now I will start to the high camps only when I will decide to go to 7300/7400 m and spend night there. It should happen after tomorrow or the day after. In the meantime I will continue to take care to my tooth....

Ciao Simone

News: 21.04, 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

All photos (number: 1)

Rock Junior 2006

The European Youth Climbing Days 2006 - the fifth edition of the Rock Junior which will take place at Arco (Trentino - Lake Garda, Italy) on Saturday 17 and Sunday 18 June.

This is the world's largest climbing festival dedicated to the young generation of climbers aged between 5 and 13 who, together with their families, want to discover the climbing game in complete safety, while at the same time discovering the splendid natural habitat of the small town located close to Lake Garda, in the Trentino region of Northern Italy.

Two fun-packed climbing days await the young climbers and their families at the large open-air Climbing Stadium which, for the occasion, transforms into a made-to-measure children's playground.
Children will also be able to take part in the special Climbing Campus to discover the world of the rocks.

Maximum safety is guaranteed by: Mountain Guides Friends of Arco, Mountaineering School Prealpi Trentine, the Mountain Rescue services (SAT and Guardia di Finanza), the Moena Police Alpine Training Force (Centro Addestramento Alpino della Polizia di Stato di Moena) and SAT Accompagnatori di Alpinismo Giovanile.

The ARCO CLIMBING sports club will provide the technical support to the ROCK MASTER di ARCO ASSOCIATION for the event organisation.

To participate simply register on

ASSOCIATION ROCK MASTER / C.P. 60 38062 ARCO, TN, ITALY/ TEL +39 0464 516830 / FAX +39 0464 517691 /

Press Office Vinicio Stefanello / tel. 049 8808423 /
Nicholas Hobley / tel. 049 8808423 /

Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu

News from Sergey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze. Foul weather...
We are out of luck with good weather. In the morning we set off heading camp 1 for the third time and were caught in the snow. Visibility was zero. We decided to spend the night and take a view of the situation.
Yesterday we met Japanese climbers. Together we discussed joint operating plans. Besides gold anniversary this expedition has the ecological aspect. Pollution of the Himalayas builds up in a global problem.

News: 21.04, 22.04, 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

Valery Babanov, Chomo-Lonzo


On April, 22 Valery and four drovers with a trail of 10 yaks crossed the Sha-Ula pass. The Liaison officer, booked off sick, remained in the settlement of Kharta. On April, 24 the expedition reached base camp located at 4750m. There is a lot of snow and it continues snowing. Weather improvement is expected in early May.

Valery Babanov: A man is the very weak work of God


Date update: 25.04.2006
Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. 1st Speed World Cup. Results


SPEED Men: Five Russians at the first 5 places!

1. Sergey Sinitsyn (Russia, Ekaterinburg)
2. Alexander Pechekhonov (Russia, Meleuz)
3. Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky (Russia, Ufa)

SPEED Women:

1. Anna Saulevith (Russia, Ekaterinburg)
2. Tatyana Ruyga (Russia, Krasnoyarsk)
3. Olga Repko (Ukraine, Kharkov)

All results:women, men

Hip, Hip, Hurrah!!
Olga Bibik successively wins the World Cup events: BOULDERING 2ND ROUND! "Man's" gold at Austrian Kilian Fischhuber.

Olga Bibik reports from Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria: " Hurrah! I did it! I can't believe at all! Olga Shalagina (Ukraine)- the second, Anna Shtohr (Austria) - the third, Juliette Danion (France) - the fourth, Angela Eiter - the fifth and the sixth - Julia Abramchuk.

We are dog tired and got scrapes.

1- FISCHUBER Kilian (Autriche)
2- MULLER Tomas (Suisse)
3- MEYER jérome (France)
4- GAIDIOZ Loic (France)
5- MORONI Gabriele (Italie)
6- RAKHMETOV Salavat (Russie)
7- OLEKSY Tomek (Pologne)

1- BIBIK Olga (Russie)
2- SHALAGINA Olha (Ukraine)
3- STOHR Anna (Autriche)
4- DANION Juliette (France)
5- EITER Angela (Autriche)
6- ABRAMCHUK Julia (Russie)


Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. Girls. Only masters are qualified for the final.
Semifinal. According to the words of participants: "We have not climbed such horror for a long time... ".
Girls, qualified for the final:
Angela Eiter (Austria), the world champion in lead and the debutant of bouldering. This year she declared her participation in both disciplines: bouldering and lead, the leader of bouldering cups French Sandrine Levet this season abandoned bouldering in favour of lead.
Angela was the unique girl sent two semifinal problems, the four other girls sent only one.
Olga Shalagina (Ukraine), Juliette Danion (France) world champion in bouldering, Julia Abramchuk (Russia, SPb) "second number" in the last year's Cup rating, Olga Bibik (Russia, Krasnoyarsk) - the champion of Europe.

Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

After 3 days and 3 night spent at 6400 at C2 due a storm and heavy snowfall, I'm again here at 5300 meters of base camp in a sunny day. Included the night spent on the summit of Island peak there are already 4 night spent to acclimatize. Yesterday had been a difficult day with a extrem effort. In C2, blocked by the storm there were not only me, but aslo 12 sherpas and 3 alpinists. So I supposed to get a big help braking trail in 1 meter of fresh snow towards camp 1. With a big surprised and angry, I had to work very hard helped from 2 sherpas, Ang Dorji and Zulding, we did the biggest part of the work. Four hours braking trail and look for the fix rope covered from the fresh snow. I didn't understud if the other sherpas and climbers was to tired and unabled to help or wich was the reason of the missing help....

Exausted we arrived to C1 where we found many other climbers blocked since 3 days due the same reason. They were all in line, fixed in the rope but waiting for someone who works in braking trail towards Base Camp, meeting the 20 sherpas coming from the bottom working braking trails and opening the ice fall. Why the most experienced, the guide, the strongest of the climbers of C1 were only waiting and not working????!!! There was also some of them that were only able to speak into the walkie talkie and give orders. Stupid! Go first and work an don't waste time to give stupid orders. In that case the only thing that is necessary is power in the legs and in the muscles and no strategies!!!

So, even exausted I and the 2 sherpas continued to brake the trail and after 1 hours we meet the strong 20 sherpas coming from the bottom and we had been able to reach the base camp few hours later. No comments....

The bad news of the day is the daid of 3 sherpas during their climb to C2. A huge serac felt down right in the moment that the 3 sherpas was crossing that section.....

They were here to work and now they will remain here forewer. No word...only reflections.... Some of the sherpas alive, that were close to the three, came in base camp and came also to me asking to telephone at home announcing the tragedy or the missing dead... Simone

News: 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

All photos (number: 6)

Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu

Last night we saw stars in heaven for the first time for 2 weeks. Night was cold, since the morning the sky has been clear. All the mad climbers rushed on firm snow heading to camp 1. Now we are discussing our plans for tomorrow. There are too much ambitions and egoism, team spirit is not present. The Kazakhs, Urubko and Samoilov, want to go simultaneously upwards. The Spaniards want to set tents in camp 2, we could hardly agree about fixing.
We set off five together. Fixed ropes will be useful to everybody. Time will show. Everything is OK.

News: 22.04, 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

Finally we arrived to the base camp of Everest and Lhotse at 5313 m (by GPS). There are many and many expedition. But Everest is Everest and ambitions are ambitions and this is the world.... Just yesterday the sherpas of the commercial expeditions arrived for the first time at C2 at 6303 m and the route is fixed till there. I would like to go to C2 already today due my good acclimatisation but I have to wait the Pusha, the buddist ceremony, before starting on the mountain. The Pusha will be tomorrow and so I will start after tomorrow. The conditions of the Everest and Lhotse face are incredibly dry and I feel that my eventual new route will be technically more difficult as I supposed, but I'm optimist in any case.Today also my polish friends of Everest expedition are with me in base camp preparing the equipment and waiting for after tomorrow. They will go to C1 and than to C2. From today my reports will be published regularly because in base camp I have solar panels and generator to charge my PC and modem.
Ciao Simone
As you can see from the picture, is here also my base camp girlfriend. Her name is Nastia :-)

Happy Easter from Simone Moro

News from 18.04.2006
Simone via satellite SMS
GPSWPT Lat N 027 Deg 058'054.412” Lon E 086 Deg 053'056.370”Alt 06362m 06:13:50Z 17.04.06 I climbed fast. After 5 hours I arrived at camp 2 with my 26 kilos rucksack. Than I worked 1 hour for my tend platform. I took ice for cooking the “tortellini”….

I’m still in camp 2 and I’m well. To much snow for going down. I will try to go down tomorrow. My batteries are low…
Ciao Simone

News from 19.04.2006
Still in C2. Simone via SMS

Barbara (Simone's wife): Hi, how is the situation today?
Simone: Nothing to do, also today and this night I have to stay here in C2…

Barbara: How are you?
Simone: I’m calm and Ok. I have food and gas for 3-4 days.

Barbara: There is somebody else there?
Simone: Yes, I discovered 3 tends with 3 Austrian 5 minutes above me and 10 sherpas 20 minutes above me. All blocked. The Icefall is closed.

Barbara: Everybody is ok?
Simone: Yes, but the people in C1 are without food and gas and are locking for in the other tends… My pulse is 58 per minute and I have enough food and gas.

Ciao till tomorrow

News: 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

All photos (number: 2)

Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu

This night it was 40 centimeter fall of snow, there can be no thought of climb continuation, the snow is knee-deep, and we are engaged in arranging the camp, excavating and moving our tents.

News: 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

Valery Babanov, Chomo-Lonzo

Weather makes own allowances.
From Valery's call: "… It has been snowing for two days. We managed to estrangefrom the mountain hamlet of Kharta located at 4000 m for 3,5 hours. The further way to base camp lays through the pass Sha-Ula (4900 m). The train of yaks cannot get over the pass in such weather conditions. The yaks shepherded by a mayoral and Liaison officer descended to the settlement. Even if the snowfall stops we will need 1-2 days more for the snow to become overconsolidated and melted or blown off by the wind.
We have 4 trekking days ahead from the pass up to Chomo Lonzo base camp. Despite of expedition schedule delay we are in cheerful mood."

Valery Babanov: A man is the very weak work of God


Photo by
11 years hence the first man's onsight... The First female 8b + onsight. Of course, Bereziartu :)

(Some more details for those who has not thrown your rocky shoes yet after reading the news preview):

Step by step the Basque girl Josune Bereziartu came nearer and nearer to this. And finally it happened on April 18 2006: "Hidrofobia", 8b +, onsight (!).

11 years back the Swiss guy Elie Chevieux made the first-ever onsight 8b (Massey Ferguson, Calanques, France, 1995) and in spite of the fact that for this time onsight frames have been expanded for one category nevertheless the list of climbing "elite" remains rather laconic.

The previous best female onsight "was limited" by simple 8b while flash was hardly more "expensive": 8b +.
It is interesting fact that an American girl Cathie Brown made it in 1999 on the same line: Hidrofobia (Spain, Montsant).


Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu 19.04
It stopped snowing in the morning. The sky is clear. We dedicated this day to breaking trail up to camp I. But great boast, small roast. Snow is new and hard. Our perspective is dim. Let's see how matters stand.

News: 17.04

About expedition

ARWorld Series Events and Qualifying Events for ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2007

In 2006

XPD.......................................................Feb 20 - 3 March ‘06
Bergson Winter Challenge.................Feb 26 - 5 March '06
Bimbache Extrem Andulucia.............March 20 - 25 '06
Wilderness ARC Scotland..................May 27 - 4 June '06
ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2006 ..................Aug ‘06

Qualifying Events for ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2007 (Wilderness ARC Scotland)

The Bull of Africa...............................May 30 - 10 June '06
EcoMotion Pro.....................................Oct
Bergson Winter Challenge.................Feb '07
Bimbache Extrem................................ March '07
ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP '07 ...... May 26 - 3 June


Picture by Fredrik Schenholm -
Date update: 21.04.2006
On the road to Everest!

I am now together with skier Tormod Granheim and photographer Fredrik Schenholm in Nyalam in Tibet at about 3700 metres on the road to Everest. The ambition is to in about a month make a ski descent of the north face of Everest. Here is a short update from our first week, and you can also follow our progress on:

We started off in Chamonix where we spent the winter season skiing and preparing the expedition. We drove down to Milano the 29:th of March and took a long flight to Kathmandu in Nepal.

We had two busy days in Kathmandu where we in cooperation with Arun treks & expedition organized a lot of practical issues like visas, for Nepal and Tibet, and bought food for our two month long expedition. The only problem we had was that our cargo from Bergans with tents, sleeping bags and so on got stuck in Bangkok... It will hopefully be sent up to Tibet a couple of days after us though. We met Tschering Palde Bute and Lambabu Sherpa that will be our film and support crew, two very nice guys with a lot of Himalaya and film experience. We then went by jeep up to the Tibetan border. The Nepalese countryside is incredibly beautiful but it's sad to see all the military activity due to the conflicts between the Nepalese king and the Maoist rebells. Troops, guard towers and even some tanks along the curly mountain road. We had no problems whatsoever though and reached the border with the Friendship Bridge after fore hours.

Getting through the Chinese customs was as always a bit of a hassle but we were happy not having to pay a single yuan and spent the night in the stinking border town Zwangmu at about 2300 metres.

The next day, Sunday, we drove on bumpy roads up to the Tibetan high plateau. Quite a lot of snow along the road and we on one occasion passed through a dug out snow corridor with about five metres high snow walls!

The jeep a couple of hours later arrived in the little mountain town Nyalam at 3700 metres where we now have spent two days doing acclimatization hikes and a bit of bouldering. We will tomorrow head up to Tingri at about 4300 metres.

All the best!
Tomas Olsson

The review of news from Nepal: Korshunov & Co are already in BC. The information about the Byelorussians, Czechs, Kazakhs...

On Saturday April, 15, Korshunov's team in full complement, the team of First Belarus Everest Expedition and also the Czech team of Cho Oyu Expedition took off from Katmandu to Kodari used the helicopter.
Today we received the message from Korshunov: they got BC Everest at 13.50 Nepalese time!

Today on April 17 at 7.30 am Maksut Zhumaev and Vasily Pivtsov flew off a charter to Jomsom for further trekking to Dhaulagiri base camp.

News from Nepal. 13.04 >>

Source: Royal Mount Travel, Katmandu, Nepal

Valeri in Delhi airport
Valery Babanov, Chomo-Lonzo


Valery calls from Katmandu:
On April, 12 I arrived in Katmandu and it was right the first day after the end of the strike. The life in the capital of Nepal resumes its natural course all the shops and stalls are open.
Today Valery is engaged in buying of food and on April, 15 early in the morning he will leave Katmandu. The same day Bolotov and Korshunov in other vehicle will head to the foot of Everest North face. Thus, their ways run in one direction in part but further they will go away: everyone has own aims and tasks.
Valery times to reach Base Camp under Chomo-Lonzo on April, 22.
On his way to Katmandu, at the airport of Delhi, he was agreeably surprised with a huge photo - panel of Meru Central peak that he had summited solo in 2001. The Expedition has started.
Wait for the further news from base camp.

All photos (number: 2)


Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov: "We are in pugnacious spirits and waiting for good weather."

Greetings! We have descended to BC. The route up to Ñ1 is normal, it's a pity only that every day it becomes to be covered with snow. We are in pugnacious spirits and waiting for good weather. Every of us are going to go upward.

Sergey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze: "Tomorrow we will set off for the route reco... Now it's a strong blizzard, visibility is zero."

We are in camp after had fixed 100 m of the rope. We were short of 50 meters more to get up to the top. The slope is very avalanche-hazardous. Tomorrow we will set off for route reco and then return to Camp 1. Now it's a strong blizzard, visibility is zero. We congratulate all of you on Astronautics day!
Sergey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze.

About expedition

Fred Rouhling and Kill Bill, 8a, and Moon safari, 8a, and Imkansiz 8a, Héphaïstos 7c, ombre lunaire 7c.

Video: 1, 2, 3


Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

Again here in Chhukung in the "Ama Dablam lodge". I came directly here from Island peak summit, that I reached yesterday and where I spent the night. In fact I took all the necessary to organize a high camp and I slept just on the summit to better acclimatize before my climb along the Everest-Lhotse face. The night on Island peak had been not so good due a strong wind and snow fall. Today the weather is quite good and I came back easily here, even I have to walk on the snow. My polish friends slept at 5400 on Island peak and today or tomorrow they will reach the summit and come here. In the next days we will continue our trekking to Everest-Lhotse base camp.


News: 1-10.04

About expedition

Who and where :) News from Katmandu. The Byelorussians are going to Everest, the Czechs - Cho Oyu, the Kazakhs - Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, the Russians - Everest.

Igor Kulishov reports from Katmandu: "We moved to a new office and changed the address of our web- site. In other respects - practically no changes.
Last night first three participants of the first Belarus Everest expedition from the Tibet side arrived. The expedition head - Vladimir Telpuk - arrives in the morning on April 14. The team plans to set off to base camp on April, 15.
The same day we will see a group of Czech climbers to Tibet, under Cho Oyu. The team consists of 11 members, expedition's leader- Milan Wlasak. The team is expected to fly to Katmandu in the evening on April 13.
Tonight Vasily Pivtsov is arriving. He together with Maksut Zhumaev aim to try Dhaulagiri and Annapurna this season plans in a two-man team. Maksut is already in Nepal. For more than two weeks of staying here he managed to male trekking up to Everest base camp. They plan to set off from Katmandu to Beni up to the start point of trekking on April15. If the road becomes to be trafficable by this time... Since April, 6 and till now there has been no opportunity to reach up to Pokhara by ground transport vehicles....
On April 13 in Katmandu is expected arriving the "VBD Everest 2006 expedition" in structure of Surmonin Sergey, Korshunov Boris, Totmyanin Nikolay, Bolotov Alexey. Their aim - Everest from the North. Team's departure from Katmandu is planned on April 15.

Royal Mountain Travel Katmandu, Nepal

Totmyanin, Korshunov and Bolotov. Everest

On the way toward Everest Nikolay Totmyanin: "And again, exactly as in last year, I hopped the steaming out train. I pick up the slack instead of a participant ped out. The aim of a three-man team is Everest via classical route from the North. We start on April, 12".

Yesterday in Moscow a press conference concerning team's leaving to Nepal was held.
The team: Nikolay Totmyanin, Alexey Bolotov and Boris Korshunov. On chance of a successful ascent Boris pretends to become the eldest climber summited Everest.

Today, on 25 February Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) yearly award will be presented in Grenoble, France.

All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.

In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody!
Now it's 5 am on local time. We had to cease efforts to ascend Fitz Roy because of an objective danger of the route: a huge ice-fall hangs over the couloir and it's constantly under ice bombardment. We decided to change our plans and to climb Saint Exupery peak (2558m). We are going to start, summit and descend this day. The weather forecast is good for the first half of the day, but for the second is bad. We will try to work faster. Wish us good luck.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody.
Yesterday we descended in Chalten and in the very nick of time - got right into a global climbing party. The party was terrific and we had a great time. As always, Russian songs headed the bill. Alexander's singing already became a legend in Chalten. People recognize him in the street and almost nearly ask for an autograph.

Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.

After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.

Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.

For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.

Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.

Wish us of good luck.
Leonid, Alexander, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi! Having climbed the Mountain for two days we had to descend yesterday. We were too close to summit but got into a violent icefall right under the summit mushroom. Thank Heaven we are safe and sound but it was too dangerous there and decided to stop climbing and descend. Now we have a rest. We'll inform you about our further plans.
That's all on for today. Take care.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi everybody!
Yesterday we descended to El Chalten. Three days ago we hired horses and moved our base camp (150 kg!) in Camp-Bridwell. Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre is a very cosy camping area embowered in trees. A stunning view at Cerro Torre massif opens from there. There are a lot of aspiring Cerro Torre climbers and trekkers living there now. Weather was wonderful. However toward evening surprisingly beautiful clouds of fantastic colors and shapes reminding UFOs appeared in the sky. It's the typical sign of an impending storm.

At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.

Dean PotterA good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.

Tomas HuberTowards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.

Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.

Austrians & SashaThe ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".

As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.

Cerro Torre at dawnNow we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.

Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.

Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.

We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Alexander, Leonid, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody. Today we finally climbed up to Norwegian camp site. It took us rather much time.
People say that there is a bad weather forecast for the day after tomorrow and we do not know really what to do. We need two days to try for the summit.

Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Our greetings to everybody! Yesterday we reached Base Camp and homed in it. We found a lot of people there. Thomas Huber told us about his brother Alex Huber that had to left home because had wounded his eye (at least the story runs that). Weather has been standing magnificent for three days, and it hurts us that we arrived so late. We are afraid, that good weather will not hold for some days more and we will not have time to ascend. Tomorrow we are going to climb up to Norwegian camp site and , the day after tomorrow we plan to get the Col and if the weather is good we will make a summit push the next day.

That is all there is to it for today.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
We flied almost lost-free. Only two backpacks with our belongings, sleeping bags, etc. and a tent were lost en route. But as people say money makes the mare go and we are going to buy needed gear in El Calafate where we will take off tomorrow.

And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.

We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

Things are shaking down rapidly. They found Olga's backpack and delivered it. In an hour our plane departs to El Calafate. Our greetings to everybody.

Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.

As expected we bought all needed things in El Calafate. You can't pick and choose here because practically all the things sold there are made by one local company...

There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.

Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.

Alxander, Leonid, Olga.


 Ines PapertHarald Berger

Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Ice Boulder Champions

In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.

Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit:


The team successfully summited on January 29!
On January 29 the guys woke up early in the morning (4 a.m.) and started their summit bid. After they climbed the summit bastion and narrow rocky ridge, all the team reached the Kodar's summit at 9.00. Temperature was negative 43, but weather was breathless. That day all of them safe and sound descended to the base camp toward evening.

Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.

All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.

We congratulate and wait for the winners!

We have already climbed a half of the route. We abide by the schedule. On January 24 we made 3 pitches, it's a record for the present time. Yesterday we made only one pitch. Today two-man team of Dmitrienko and Tsyganov is next in turn to fix the rope on the route. In total, since 19 of January we made 13 pitches - it's approximately a half of the route. Yesterday the team in its full complement took off and now is making themselves at home in a tent settled in a small rocky niche that was found in the area of 12-th pitch.

We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.

Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.

We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.

Keep in touch with us!

For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. In total 9 pitches are climbed. Firm granite, cold, ice-covered rocks. Today Prokof'ev and Belyanin are working. They have to find a convenient site for the first hanging camp. Temperature is negative 30.

New world champions in ice-climbing. January, 21-22, The 2nd World Championships for Difficulty- and Speed Ice Climbing and the 1st Swiss Ice Climbing Masters in Difficulty and Speed, Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.


Difficulty. Men

1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
2 ANTHAMATTEN Simon (Switzerland)
3 LEICHTFRIED Albert (Austria)

4 BENDLER Markus (Austria)
5 ANTHAMATTEN Samuel (Switzerland)
6 WANDELER Simon (Switzerland)
7 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
8 ODERMATT Urs (Switzerland)

Difficulty. Women

1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
2 PAPERT Ines (Germany)
3 MAUREAU Stephanie (France)

4 BUCHMANN Kirsten (Germany)
5 TORRETTA Anna (Italy)
6 EYER Alexandra (Switzerland)
7 FILIPPOVA Maryam (Russia)
8 SHABALINA Maria (Russia)

Speed. Men

1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
2 FAYZULLIN Igor (Russia)
3 CHVED Nikolai (Russia)

4 HOFER Lars (Switzerland)

Speed. Women

1 KOULIKOVA Natalia Russia
2 OLEINIKOVA Joulia Russia
3 TORRETTA Anna Italy

Photo: Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,

On Saturday January, 22, Sergey Borisov was killed in an automobile accident in Ekaterinburg. I do not know, what I can add any more. Suddenly I realized that I have nothing to say if it happens to my friends... because it is not right..

Sergey Borisov

Master of Sport of International Grade
For a long time he was the captain of Sport Club of Army of Ural military region.
He became four times champion of USSR, twice champion of Russia, numerous prize-winner of different national championships.

The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.

1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).

1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".

1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".

2002 - Everest via Northern col.

2004 - Jannu North Face, summiter


Everything is turning out well. We dug a cave and sorted out the problem of fire wood. Three two-man teams (Prokofiev-Belyaev, Dmitrienko-Tsyganov, Tsygankov - Cherezov) worked alternating on the route for 3 days and made 7 pitches. It became warmer a little, -20, snowfalls. The Wall is ice- and snow-covered.

It's snowing, temperature is -20. 5 pitches are made.

Kodar-2005. Nikolay Zakharov called: We continue to make our base camp more comfortable. There is a lot of snow. We clear away the beaten track to the wall. It's -35. Our greetings to everybody!

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Till the end this expedition was very hard…
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than - 40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue. We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the jeeps to Kathmandu.

The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….

The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..

The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!

Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.

P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray


Svetlana Boldykova(24.01.2005)
From January 15-23, 2005 the 2005 Snowboard World Championships took place in Whistler, Canada.
On January 18 Russians sportsmen showed good results: at Women's Parallel Giant Slalom (PGS - Olympic discipline) Svetlana Boldykova became the second, Ekaterina Tudigescheva - the forth and at Men's Parallel Giant Slalom Denis Salagaev was the ninth.

On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.

And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.



Ines Papert breaks record in Ouary Ice Park, USA
Igor Ivashura, CYKHAX ENT, Munich, informs:
This girl just went and did that left behind all the monsters of ice-climbing and showed the best result among men and women on the tenth annual "Ouary Ice Festival" (USA)!!!

Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.

The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.

Ines's result is really unique.

The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"

Total report

1 22:47 WILL GADD
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
13 16:42 ADAM STACK
5 13:53 SUE NOTT

Photo -

Georgian Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Film Festival N I A M O R I
In January-March 2005, in Georgia (former Soviet Union) Tbilisi will host the second annual Mountain Film Festival “Niamori”


18.01.05 Zakharov called from base camp:
16.01 The bad weather was.
17.01 We finally got to the area of ascent. The gorge is so narrow that the helicopter could not find any convenient site to land and we were dropped in deep snow from a hovering helicopter.

The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.

Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.

Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!

14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to take all our equipment and transport to the village that is 25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring for the sun....



"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.

One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15. We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing we summited.

This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...

Simone and Piotr reached the col and put up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers!...

Simone and Piotr

Petites Jorasses. First free climbing "Omega" route Britons Nick Bullock and Stuart MacAleese became the third team climbed historical Patrick "Gab" Gabarrou's and Ferran Latorre's route "Omega" on Petites Jorasses (Mt. Blanc), (700m, VI/5+,A3).

It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.


Ice-climbing. Jenny Lavarda and Hannes Pfeifhofer are the champions of Italy
The second stage of the Italian Ice-climbing championship "ITALIAN ALPINE CUP" finished at the last weekend in Val Passiria .
At men having got over all the grandees and merited runners as Bubu Mauro Bole and Herbert Klammer Hannes Pfeifhofer, a 18-year climber, unexpectedly won the gold.
Jenny Lavarda, having switched off from rock-climbing on ice in this winter season, took part at such events for the first time and won by a head. Silvia Cian is the second and Monica Gemelli- the third.



GRANDES JORASSES. Linceul (4208m). Winter solo
Ferran Martínez is the Spanish climber soloed the "great classics" of GRANDES JORASSES: Linceul. Some days later his climb was repeated by other Spanish climber Eloi Callado.



The fifth summit under the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter" has been climbed
Sergey Shchepachkov informs:

On January, 9, 2005 a team of climbers (Ivan Artemov, Ivan Alentsev, Victor Afanasyev, Andrey Bukin, and Oleg Bibin) summited Mt. Kazbek (5033m) within the framework of the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter".
Weather during the ascent held ideal. I got cold and had to stop climbing and left the team during the summit push. Proshchenko Maxim and Grishnjachy Leonid had to abandon the team too. The route line went from Northern Ossetia side, through Genaldonskoe gorge via Pastukhova route.

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.



Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
All the night the wind shook the tents and it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud, showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col...

Simone and Piotr

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC (5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going up.

The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...

Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.


Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!. The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult to be...

We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.

Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek that still were in C1.

Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....

Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till 7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek "sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe make already a first summit attempt....

Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?

Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise well and also using that point as the starting point for the summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40° degree and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope till C1.

Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend

The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.

Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550 m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.

Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.

The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold, today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600 m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind... but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get the first technical problem.

Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...

Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.

Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...

We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...

After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible. So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base camp (log way....)

Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...

Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.

On the way to C1(31.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac, below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp I. The altitude is about 6550.

Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.

Ciao, Simone

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32 yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.

Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.

We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!

base camp

Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry 40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA. Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather is still good even the temperature went down in compare of one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team

I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead, I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages. We're sentries up here…

We arrived in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.

A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.

The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible…
Bye, Simone

Translation by Jonathan Etes

German TOP-climbers Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz did not sustained the most severe gale-force wind and bailed their first ascent Murallon, North face, (Patagonia).

Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma.
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.

Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.

In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra stupid discussion.

Simone, Darek, Piotr

On 12 December Jean-Christophe Lafaille returned to the base camp after his challenge summit (on December 11) Shishapangma.

It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.

The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France,




International calendar for ice-climbing competitions, 2005 season





CHABOT Alexandre
 EITER Angela

World Cup 2004 Top-10

1. MRAZEK Tomas CZE 560.00
2. CHABOT Alexandre FRA 516.00
3. CRESPI Flavio ITA 333.00
4. PETRENKO Maxim UKR 322.00

5. USOBIAGA Patxi ESP 317.00
6. POUVREAU Gérome FRA 291.00
7. MILLET Sylvain FRA 268.00
8. FUSELIER Mickael FRA 249.00
9. VERHOEVEN Jorg NED 248.00
10. PUIGBLANQUE Ramón Julián ESP 240.00

1. EITER Angela AUT 535.00
2. SARKANY Muriel BEL 525.00
3. EYER Alexandra SUI 364.00

4. GROS Natalija SLO 364.00
5. CIAVALDINI Caroline FRA 356.00
6. SCHÖPF Bettina AUT 345.00
7. LAVARDA Jenny ITA 299.00
8. VIDMAR Maja SLO 287.00
9. CUFAR Martina SLO 286.00
10. SHALAHINA Olha UKR 245.00

World Cup. Latest Stage. Kranj, SLO

1. Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
2. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov (RUS)
3. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
2. Natalija Gros (SLO)
3-4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
3-4. Sandrine Levet (FRA)

Simone Moro. Shisha Winter
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.

After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp.

Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.

Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch

About expedition

UIAA Worldcup Difficulty Event Brno (CZE) 2004. Results.
The Winners - Flavio CRESPI, Italy, and Alexandra EYER, Switzerland. At men Tomas MRAZEK, CZE, and Alexandre CHABOT, France, are the second and the third accordingly. And at women the Russian Olga SHALAGINA (!!!) is the second and Maja VIDMAR, Slovenia is the third.

See all the results


Fred Rouhling opens his new line Mandallaz drive, 9à
Fred Rouhling has just declared about his successful redpoint of the new project in d'Allonzier la Caille - Mandallaz drive, 9à.
In 1993 only lazy did not mock Fred when he declared the first French 9à, Hugh line. However in 2001, 8 (!) years later, the category was confirmed by Italian climber Alessandro Lamberti.
1995 "Practically everyone in this world had to doubt of his judiciousness" - It is about Fred Rouhling and his challenging Akira, 9b. Do you really think the world delightfully looked into his eyes?
1997 l'Autre Cote du Ciel (The other side of the sky), the second 9à, sent by Fred. Then everything went without any autographs....
3d "9a" of Fred was Fred Nicole's "bain de sang"
2004 Mandallaz drive, 9à. Who would doubt... Go, Fred! :)


Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton
On October 5, the two climbed six new pitches, totaling about 1,000 feet of thin ice and mixed climbing. The new route, which is unnamed, started just left of the classic North Face route and ended at the Hossack-McGowan Couloir, which they followed to the East Ridge and eventually reached the summit.
The crux was found on the second pitch, where unprotectable ice forced Koch into a soaking-wet, “womb-like feature” behind the ice until he could bust through and pull a roof to easier ground. He spent the next belay wringing out his clothes and pouring water out of his boots. A sudden storm then dumped buckets of graupel, which cascaded down the face in “one of the most spectacular sights I have witnessed in the mountains,” Koch said. When the storm stopped, they continued upward through four more good pitches of ice, including a winding WI 5 pitch that Koch called the nicest ice pitch he has ever done on a mountain route.

Rating of rock-climbers - the world leaders. Bouldering. Speed. Difficulty
In bouldering and speed the sportmen have been already put in their places, "all sweets" are given away, in difficulty there are two events more ahead...

UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004


1. Sandrine Levet, France
2. Olga Bibik, Russia
3. Julia Abramchuk, Russia

1. Daniel Dulac, France
2. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
3. Jerome Meyer, France


1. Tatyana Ruyga, Russia
2. Anna Saulevich, Russia

1. Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
2. Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky, Russia
3. Alexander Peshehonov, Russia

Difficulty. The current rating

1. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
2. Angela Eiter, Austria
3. Bettina Schopf, Austria

1. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
2. Alexandre Chabot, France
3. Gerome Pouvreau, France

All results

Rock Climbing. World Cup in Valence, France. Difficulty.
The winners

1. CHABOT Alexandre FRA
2. Bindhammer Christian Germany
1. Muriel Sarkany Belgium
2. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
2. CUFAR Martina SLO
4. Jenny Lavarda ITA
5. Angela Eiter AUT

The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.

© 1999-2007 Mountain.RU
Mail to:
Ðåéòèíã Rambler's Top100