Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Date update: 13.04.2006
Rosta Stefanek on the "female" Bereziatu's Bimbaluna 9a/a +.
Rosta Stefanek announced his sending "the female nine" Bimbaluna, 9a/a +, in Saint Loup, Swiss area.
Date update: 13.04.2006
Everest's Supercouloir and Shivling (6543m) - spring cocktail from Alberto Inurrategi.
This spring Alberto Inurrategi plans to climb Everest's Supercouloir, but first he will try Shivling North face. His regular team-mate - Jon Beloki.
Date update: 27.04.2006
...here I am again in Kathmandu, with the usual rituals, the usual problems, the usual encounters made up of the usual questions. But in the end I always come back to Kathmandu with pleasure and it is always nice to immerse oneself in the ritual of starting the trekking, and the will to begin to sweat it out and dream of one's vertical projects. You all know my project this year, and I have talked about it on this website. I will be alone and even this is nothing new. As far as climbing permits are concerned I managed to organize them as usual and at base camp I will organize services with an expedition of Polish friends going up Everest.
Tomorrow I set off for the trek together with them and we will also climb
Island Peak almost 6200mt. My idea is to spend a night on the summit of this
mountain because I want to acclimatize in the best possible way. The final
result of the ascent which I shall attempt will be a result of an optimum
physical condition.The next report is due in two days time from Namche at
3700metres, the Sherpa village.
Namche Bazar, the village of sherpas.and of alpinists. How many times have I already passed by here. The first time was in 1992 and now I think I have been here over 30 times... This village which can now be called a town, has changed a lot. There are no roads which you can drive along, you can only reach Namche on foot, but apart from that it has nothing missing. Even if you are at 3600 meters of altitude there is internet, a bakery, cake shops, a bank, shops and stalls, bed and breakfasts etc.
Today the Poles and I set off from Pakding, 2600 m and very comfortably
arrived here, using our energy to make it last all day. To tell you the
truth in the last hour and a half I tried to accelerate my pacejust to check
out my engine, and everything is ok. Tomorrow we will stay here and we will
reach Syangboche for a flying visit, where our luggage and equipment arrived
via helicopter. We will take out just what we need for the next few days and
in the evening come back down here to sleep. The weather has been good and
has allowed us to take photos and films. Tomorrow we will do the same...
Today is my second day at Namche Bazar. As usual I prefer to stay two nights here at 3600 meters to give my body the right period of time to acclimatise well without forcing things. In any case today I reached 3850 meters in Syangboche to check my baggage and eqipment which arrived with a cargo flight which also transported food and equipment for the village. I made the most of my walk to reach Thame and then return to Namche Bazar. The weather is quite good and I took photos and film even if I have been here more than 20 times. Tomorrow we will go to Deboche crossing Syangboche where the famous Buddhist monastery is located. In Deboche there is the best lodge of the valley the "Ama Dablam Garden Lodge" where I have spent a lot of time during my past expeditions and where I have nice memories. Also this year after having climbed till 8000 meters during my aclimatisation period I will go back to that lodge to get 4/5 days rest and than return to base camp and attempt the new route on Lhotse. Ciao
Today beautiful weather and sunshine here in Chhukung. Yesterday we came
here from Dingboche (I'm still trekking with the polish "Falvit expedition",
who will attempt Everest) where we stood 2 days. During that period I walked
up to the Dingboche Ri at 5000 meters to test my "motor". Yesterday when I
arrived here at Chhukung at 4713 m, I climbed up to Chhukung Ri at 5600
meters in only...56 minutes... I feel very well and I hope to be in this
condition for all the expedition... Every day I record all my physiological
parameters by my polar watches and at the evening I download them on my PC
for checking all.Today we will go to Island Peak base camp and tomorrow we
will try the summit at 6180 meters. My idea is to remain on the summit with
my tend and sleep there so I can give big stimulation to my acclimatisation
process. In fact I would like to be immediately fast during the first part
of my Lhotse climb. I don't like to spend 1 minute more in the danger
icefall than necessary....
GPSWPT Lat N027 Deg 055'012.352" Lon E 086 Deg 056'005.680" Alt 06131m
Dani Andrada: New 8ñ +
Dani Andrada sent one more 8ñ + in Santa Linya. The route C.E.S. ultima ola opened in a cave is 25 meters and if to add the remaining 30 meters C.E.S. ultima ola would seem to be a good 9b.
ENTER NOW FOR ADVENTURE RACE RIGA CHALLENGE 2006! Date: August 18-20 2006
Place: Riga, city and region, Latvia
Team Composition: 4 members (both genders must be present)
Competitor Age: The minimum age for competitors in Elite and Sport class is 18, in Mass class - 17
Race: Unsupported non-stop race
Disciplines: Orienteering, biking, paddling, trekking, swimming, coasteering, climbing, rope work and special tasks (secret sections, be ready for anything!)
Length of course: 250+ km for Elite class, 150+ km for Sport class and 70+ km for Mass class
Duration:48 hours max for Elite class, 36 hours max for Sport class and 24 hours max for Mass class Team
Limit: 30 teams in Elite class, 40 in Sport class and 50 in Mass class (up to now - 110 teams in 2003, 98 teams in 2005!)
Organizers: City Adventure Agency, E-mail: email@example.com
The founders of this agency are two experienced adventurers: Kristaps Liepiòð(Alpinism instructor with 20 years of mountaineering experience, and the author of idea of creative association Vertical X and the organizer of historic series of VX adventureraces, major race in Baltic states) and Edgars Liepiòð(orienteering well in forest pathways, the participant of uncountable adventure races, the founder of sports club “Concorde”).
Adventure search and accepting the challenge of tough affairs unit us.
Source: Kristaps Liepins
In 10 april 4 climbers from Latvia - Andris Malasevskis, Atis Plakans, Kaspars Klapkalns, Liga Plakane are going to Himalaya to climb Shisha Pangma (8027m) main summit.
This is the first Latvian expedition to this mountain and first 8000m peak for all expedition members.
We will go with Asian-trekking to base camb and back.
BERGSON WINTER CHALLENGE: The Russians are the third (out of team classification that seems to become a good tradition :)
The Russian Arena Adventure Team (Artem Rostovtsev the captain, Michael Pershin, Jury Borodulin, Anna Burlinova) took part in one of the hardest winter races in Sudetes Mountains (of southwestern Poland and the northern Czech Republic).
Bergson Winter Challenge.
1. Nordic Fitness Sport (Finland) - 91:19
In total 13 teams from 8 countries started the race.
Chomo Lonzo. Valery Babanov New Project. Interview with TVMountain.com
Extreme skier Doug Coombs was lost in La Grave yesterday
A guide and an extreme skier - the American Doug Coombs and his friend were found dead in La Grave. To all seeming they went on ice or were engulfed in a small snow purge on abrupt couloir "Polichinelle" in sector Freaux.
The accident took place yesterday during afternoon, at about 2000m. 48 years old Coombs and his 32 years old mate fell down about 200 meters on rocks. The rescuers from Briason arrived to the site at 17.30 but it was already late, the both skiers were dead of injuries.
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu: The organization marathon finally finished The organization marathon finally finished. Every time I do that a lot of trouble appears.
One thing I would like to tell you: "My friends are my inestimable wealth".
"You, probably, are going to hitch-hike to the Himalayas? - one young lady asked me.
Hardly such question would come with relevance for a football player or a girl with a tennis-racket. This is entirely a fault of my rucksack. Its presence assumes that his owner should somehow to move with it.
But our things stand much easier, we go a civilized way. We fly to the Himalayas and then tomorrow we take off by helicopter to mountain's foot. The prospective problem appeared a reality. Strike of maoists drag on for 5 days. But we will fly over it. And farther we plan to make first full carry to base camp.
Baltic Open Bouldering Edition Results
1 Natalia MINEEVA RUS
1 Egle KIRDULYTE LIT LTC
1 Kostas TURCINAVICIUS LIT LTC
1 Kristine MALISEVA EST
First International Bouldering Tournament in Ukrainka. Winners - Olga Shalagina and "the secret Russian weapon" - Rustam Gelmanov.
The first pancake is not always lumpy - in Ukraine First International Bouldering Master finished.
Qualification: Olga Bibik sent all the problems first go. Olga and Yana Chereshneva (Russia), Tanya Tarasova (Russia), Olga Shalagina (Ukraine), Sveta Tuzhilina, Melanie Son (France) qualified for the final.
Men - finalists:
Not most predicted hands:
It remains to add that the route-setters were Sergey Shemulinkin, Serik Kazbekov, Igor Gusak and others.
With good start!
Birmingham WC Video. Bouldering
In spring 2006 Sergey Bogomolov (summited 11 highest peaks from 14 world 8-thousanders) is going to open an expedition on Manaslu, 8163 m, Himalaya, Nepal, under the project developed by The Fifteenth Anniversary of The Kazakhstan Independence: Summiting of All 14 Highest Mountains by National Kazakhstan Team.
It's his second attempt. The last year he managed to set camp I (5600 m) and camp II (6900 m) but after many days snowfall and a blizzard at 6900 m the team lost all their and had to bail hardly solved the developed situation.
The spring of 2006 is the time of celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the First ascent of Manaslu. It was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition.
8A+ onsight by David Graham
David Graham has onsighted Le Retour de Goupil, 8A+ in Hueco. This was his second ever 8A+ onsight.
Date update: 27.03.2006
Bouldering World Cup First Event: Olga Bibik wins. Good beginning:)
In Birmingham the results of Bouldering World Cup First Event were summed up. The competitions were led according new UIAA format in three stages with qually, semi and a final.
Date update: 22.03.2006
Video : Chris Lindner in "Reaccion Indirecta" 8c/8c+ Argentina
Reaccion Indirecta (8c/8c+ or 14b/c) in Patagonia, Argentina. I did the second ascent after Alex Chabot did the first a couple days before. It is a super short, super steep, and super hard Five Star classic. It is a lot like Action Direct in nature which is how it got its name. It starts out hard right off the ground, then the crux move is this right hand grab right before the next crux which is getting the third bolt clipped. From there it is progressively easier moves to the top.
New 8B's for Fred Rouhling at "Bourrinoire", France
Fred Rouhling did two new 8B bouldering problems at Le Bourrinoire in Haute Savoie/France
"Fakir is the extension of a 7C that I opened 5 years ago. A very hard moove at the beginning, then a finger resistance section for finishing in a big wall on small galets. High and long problem (nearly 20 mooves) wich is for me harder that the problems I did in the same style (Fatman 8A+/8B, la pierre philosophale 8B, eau profonde 8B+ or Prophétie 8B+).
Outdoor News. Outdoor actor Vaude takes over Edelrid.
German outdoor specialist Vaude has just declared about acquiring the company Edelrid*, the specialist for climbing equipment, specifically manufacturing ropes and climbing harnesses.
Prezelj's Patagonian ascents
Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj has returned from a five week trip to Patagonia where, dodging typical unstable weather, he made two fast ascents, one on Cerro Torre and one on Torre Standhardt.
BALTIC BOULDERING 2006
Regulation and program
Participants from Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Russia
The French Federation (FFME) convoke Alex Chabot to a disciplinary board
Alex Chabot is convoked to the French Climbing Federation (FFME) on March 24. The reason are still the facts of 2005 Chamonix and Kranj WorldCup, when Alex hided the federal sponsor (Quechua) on his national suit as legaly, no text was oposing to him.
The French Federation had decided in a July 20 letter to Alex not to sue him for Chamonix facts. It's seems that they changed their opinion.
In an interview to the last french Magazine "Grimper", Alex Chabot explain that in 2005 "no legal disposition, reglementary rules, or federal rule was mentionning the obligation for a French Federation member to exhibe, without his agreement, commercial brands chosen by the federation.
Alexandre Chabot does not take the decision to go to this disciplinary board or not.
The audience is public, everybody can come to see or support. Meeting on March 24 at 18h30 at FFME, 8/10 quai de la Marne 75019 Paris Photo : Alex Chabot (Kazu Chiba)
ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2006 official ranking
1. BERGER HARRY AUT 416
1. PAPERT INES GER 400
1. VLASOV MAXIM RUS 202 áàëëà
1. OLEYNIKOVA JULIA RUS 302 áàëëà
The video of Markus Bock getting Ganymede Takeover, 8B (Tessin - Switzerland) is now online!
Ice-climbing World Cup Stage. Harry Berger and Inessa Papert
This time organizers changed the competitions' concept: instead of a usual "plywood" artificial icicle sportsmen were offered to climb real hanging ice cascades.
Among women nobody can meet the competition with Ines Papert: The German "snow queen" celebrates her next victory.
Photo Dag Hagen, http://www.norsk-klatring.no
After "Reaccion Indirecta" 8c/8c+ , the hardest route in Argentina the day before, Alex Chabot did "Directa Challenger" the first 8c of Argentina Onsight!
Chris Lindner had done the route a few hours before. Hearing his gritings, Alex Chabot decided to try also.
"Directa Challenger" is situated in Valle Encantado, Argentina.
If it was not enough, Alex flashed just after "Ona" 8b
The Rewarding Ceremony of winners of the Tbilisi International Mountain Films Festival "Niamori" has Passed in Tbilisi
Ceremony of rewarding of winners of the Third International Festival of Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Films "Niamori" has passed in Tbilisi on March 3rd in the House of Cinema.
The festival has started in Georgia on February 5th in Bakuriani (a small mountain village ) and finished in Tbilisi, capital of Georgia. In total on competition 28 films, from them eight Georgian films, one joint Georgian-Russian, ten Italian, three American, two Austrian, and on one film from the United Kingdom, Germany, Switzerland, Canada and Brazil have been presented on Niamori-2006".
The winner in a nomination First step became the Georgian film "Extremer". In a nomination of the Best Cameramen the award has received American - Canadian film "Vertical Frontier ". The prize for the Best Director's Work has received the Brazilian film "The Southern Extreme ". In a nomination for the Best Foreign film the winner had been declared the British tape "Twice Upon a Time ". The nomination Adventurers has won the Georgian film "Pilot". In a nomination Rescuers the prize has got to the Italian film " Soccorso Alpino ". A nomination Extreme has won the American film "The Tangerine Dream ". In a nomination Alpine Expedition the award was received with the Swiss film "Last Exit Titlis ".
The special prize of jury was received with the Georgian tape "Wedding at Top ". Grand prix of festival got the Georgian-Russian film "Overcoming - Lhotse" (film is removed by studio "Vertical "). The prize of Spectator Sympathies has got to the Georgian tape "In an Empire of Blue Mountains".
In conversation with "News-Georgia" representatives of jury of festival marked, that though all the films presented on competition were various and interesting, but at the same time all of them transferred unique spirit of travel on mountains, showed human emotions and feelings and in all films the sensation of an extreme contained.
Within the limits of festival have passed literary and photo-competition, competitions on snowboarding, paragliding and ice-climbing. Rewarding of winners of competitions and sports meets also took place on March 3rd in the House of Cinema.
An avalanche interrupts the Individual race of the World Championships
Surprise and luck. That the two words that will keep for ever in mind of the organizers of the Skimountaineering World Championships. One avalanche falled Friday around 11 a.m. on the individual race itinerary. Several racers, manly juniors and cadets, were taken by the avalanche. Some of them, very partially or completely covered.
Opium in Fontainebleau. Video
Legendary Fred Rouhling performs in legendary Bleau.
"No Foot!" Traditional rock-climbing starts in Strasbourg, France On March, 25 traditional starts No Foot Contest VII will run in Strasbourg, France. The participants are going to test their strengths on the hardest lines with unique restriction: no-feet-allowed climb.
(M.RU comment: last year Alex Chabot, World Cup champion, and Cecile Weber, French bouldering champion, became the winners of No Foot Contest VI).
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All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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