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Marble Wall. Summit!

SMS from Denis Urubko

February, 28, 2006.
We safely descended on 4000 m. Everything is all right, tomorrow we plan to be in Zharkulak toward noontime. I congratulate all of you on winter's end!

Every team's climber was at the summit. Then we got back to the camp at 6100 where are going to have a drink and to continue descent.

February, 27, 2006.
The team is at 6100 m, the guys find themselves quite good. A strong wind was all the day long - slopes look like they had been polished. Tomorrow we plan to make a summit push and then to descend. Weather is normal.

Our greetings.

News from Kazakhstan. Marble Wall 2006.
"The team has climbed up a plateau at 5000 m"
On February, 23, for old time's sake celebrating Defender of the Motherland Day, the team of TsSKA of Kazakhstan will start the next expedition. This time the aim of ascent: Marble Wall (6400 m) located in the east of the country in Central Tien-Shan.

The mountain was first ascended by a team led V. Shipilov in 1953. The climbers plan to repeat the route that is 5A-graded and goes right on the shortest line from bottom up to the summit.

The TsSKA team is famous for the "Alpine" style ascent. In winter such climbs is a real a leap in the dark because of risk to get in bad weather.

In structure of the team are skilled sportsmen from Almaty and Kustanai. The team's leader is Sergey Samoilov, Master of Sports, TsSKA trainer. Numerous team's ascents in December and January shown a good level of climbers' technical and physical readiness. Therefore they expect a breakthrough in their attempt.

Transfer (from Almaty up to a frontier post Bayankol and the mining settlement of Zharkulak) and father support and provision are implemented up by Almaty Rescue Service (051). The further way in the glacial zone the team is going to do in 4-5 days.

The ascent is going to be one of the stages of team's training for the spring season in the Himalayas. Some Kazakhstan climbers aim to open a new route on Manaslu (8163 m).

SMS from Denis Urubko.

February, 26
The team climbed up a plateau at 5000 m. The state of health is good, weather smiles, a wind is average. What about the news from Winter Olympic Games? Our greetings. Denis.

February, 25
We climbed the ice-falls up to 4100 m. Weather is setting. All the summits around are covered by the sun, but below it is dark and cold. We play preference. Our greetings. Denis.

February, 24
Hi, our group reached the settlement of Zharkulak and approached to the glacier. We spend the night at 3200 m, weather is so-so. It is snowing. Our greetings. Denis.

Everest Northern Face for free riders!

Tomas Olsson, Swedish climber and rider, live in Chamonix, is going to make ski descent Everest North face in this spring (3000 meters of altitude difference)

In 2004 he already managed to climb Cho Oyu (8201 m) (without artificial oxygen and high altitude porters) and make "clean" continuous ski descent down the summit.


Alex Chabot and C in Argentina. Alex Chabot, Romain Pagnoux, Chris Lindner and Phil Maurel in Bariloche, Argentina



Krasnoyarians in Alps. February, 19.

Grandes Jorasses
19:10. Having climbed the ice-fall we finally got back. Now we are breaking trail waist-deep in snow. All is well.
23:53. We are going to the hut. Zero visibility, about 2 hours of movement left. There is snow up to the ears.
04:15. Finally we reached the hut. All of us are safe and sound. We needed 8 hours instead of an hour as usual! That is the real freeride!

Matterhorn. A day of the portaledge hauling up.
22:47. We moved the portaledge 5 pitches up... We are in a real hole. Blizzard... We pitched the portaledge in full darkness.
23:00. We are not going to go to bed soon, only have started to cook dinner.
Sewed up a hole from a stone. Cherezov has his second birthday today. He had a lucky escape. We have 8 pitches more left for about 4 days.

Nikolay Zakharov's letter:
I'm writing from Rust. Yesterday we arrived here from Grindelwald. Today the Eiger team + Denis Prokof'ev left for visiting Robert Shtainer (a German climber and our friend, ascended Khan Tengri in structure of Krasnoyarsk team last summer) and they are going to stay at him before flying away. Grandes Jorasses team descended to the hut, we will take them away from Chamonix on Ferruary 25. Matterhorn team keeps climbing, now they are at about 4000m. They have about 400 m vertical extent ahead. A strong wind, bad weather prevents them to climb. Denis has practically recovered, even went to climb on ice icicles.
Our greetings to all of you.

Krasnoyarians in Alps. Grandes Jorasses. Summit!

February, 18.

Grandes Jorasses
The guys set off from a portaledge at 7.00 am and climbed first via 7 already fixed ropes, then a pitch up to the roof and 6 pitches on the summit ridge right to the top. The roof is abrupt. At 5.00 pm the team was already at the summit. And at 8.30 pm they got back to the portaledge. Tomorrow - reppelling straight up to the glacier, 7 pitches down on ice and on a snow slope right up to the hut.
17:25 "We have summited. It's a very abrupt roof. Weather: the sun shines through clouds. In Italy weather is just like in summer. Begin to descend. Everything is OK."
17:46 Total 27 pitches, roof - 6, start in 7.
20:54 They reached the portaledge. All is well. Tomorrow they will continue up to the hut.
21:10 Rappelling straight up to the ice and on 7 pitches on ice.

19:10. 3 pitches more through snowfall and avalanches. Now it's calm, it's snowing a bit, towards evening a weather gleam opened for an hour.

N. Zakharov: The team is in Grindelwald.

Slightly mountain-beaten, but vigorous the climbers have arrived in Krasnoyarsk.

A growing child, Adam Ondra, just out of his 13th birthday, onsighted two 8b +.

Adam Ondra is just out of his 13th birthday. The star boy decided to take two weeks off from his intensive schoolwork to climb a little in Spain.
Results of his vacation:
Onsight Kalea Borroka, 8b+ in Siurana.
One more onsight 8b + and another three 8b in Montsant.
Redpoint La Leccion, 8c+ in Terradets.


One more Czech kid of great abilities: Martin Stranik, five 8+ onsight.

15-year old Martin Stranik also found an opportunity to take two weeks off from his schoolwork and to devote free time to much more pleasant and useful pastime more specifically rock-climbing in Spain.
Successes: eleven 8 and harder onsight and Kalea Borroka, 8b+ in Siurana redpoint.

It seems it's time to make a doping control of vitamins Czech children are dosed :-)


Old pottage is sooner heated than new made. Dani Andrada: ninth 9 in his bank.

A Spanish "veteran" Dani Andrada managed to send his ninth 9 for the last twelve months: this time Barrakito puro y duro, 9a in Sant Llorent de Montgai. Yesterday he also redpointed Encerrado, 8c+.


Provisional competition calendar: 8 boulder and 10 lead events


Date update: 20.02.2006
Four from five climbers trapped in a mountain gorge after an avalanche in Mt. Nakhar area and evacuated by the helicopter of the Russian border guards have left the Republican Hospital in Cherkessk.

Four from five climbers trapped in a mountain gorge after an avalanche in Mt. Nakhar area and evacuated by the helicopter of the Russian border guards have left the Republican Hospital in Cherkessk.
After examination the doctors consider them out of danger. The fifth surviving climber Dmitry Golubev from Maikop suspected nephros hypothermia is hospitalized in urology department. The preliminary diagnosis - a spinal injury - did not proved to be true. The doctors appreciate his health satisfactory.
Four his climbing-mates Dmitry Shaulsky (Krasnodar), Andrey Grigorov (Saratov), Michael Zinov'ev (Balakhovo) and Shakavaz Shakavazov (Makhachkala) are temporarily lodged on the Ministry of Emergency Measures of Karachayevo-Circassia' base.
The transportation down of four lost (A.Bychkov, K.Dorro, S.Rashitov and S.Tabakov) will start in spring when the weather condition will allow it.

Date update: 20.02.2006
Krasnoyarians in Alps. Eiger. "We climbed, climbed and finally summited. And, thank God, managed to descend".

Eiger. Nikolay Zakharov informs:

08:35. A gale-force wind. Radio communication at 10 o'clock.
10:30. The team started summit bid at 3 am at night.
14:50. Summit about 12.30. Descent via the western slope. It is technically not hard, but very long, through a lot of fresh snow.
15:02. Weather conditions and a condition of the descent route are very serious.
15:09. A strong wind, zero visibility at the upper 3/4 route.
15:22. They decided to descend before it gets dark, then to settle a bivy to spend the night.
18:07. Finally they decided to continue descent at night as there were not any hopes for weather improvement.
00:30. The guys have just descended, everything is OK, they climbed a magnificent direct line on Eiger North Face.

Grandes Jorasses.

11:23 Weather is bad we are fixing our two last ropes and tomorrow will start a summit push rain or shine.
22:40 Climbed two pitches more and there is 1,5 ones left up to the summit ridge. Weather is very bad, snow never ceased falling. Tomorrow we will start the summit bid.


08:30 The team is waiting out the bad weather at 6th pitch. 6 pitches more are fixed.
09:55 Weather forecast for today is urgently needed. The guys want to move the portaledge. But they have to stay and think while there is a strong wind.
20:56 Extreme move 6 pitches up, 2 ones more are made in snowstorm: the guys headed the driving snow.


Today at 0.30 am European time the team of Krasnoyarsk climbers (E.Dmitrienko, V.Arkhipov, P.Malygin, D.Tsyganov) descended in base camp.

They opened a new line on 1800 meter wall directly to the summit, "Russian Direct". The ascent accomplished in extreme weather conditions under plentiful European snowfalls and strongest winds.

The team reached the summit at 12.30 on February 17 blown over a gale-force wind and descended about 12 hours to BC on deep unreliable snow, in snowstorm, at zero visibility. All of them are safe and sound.

This ascent is a part of the Big Krasnoyarsk Project - simultaneous conquest of three greatest European walls: Eiger, Grandes Jorasses and Matterhorn.

Grandes Jorasses.
22:40 Climbed two pitches more and there is 1,5 ones left up to the summit ridge. Weather is very bad, snow never ceased falling. Tomorrow we will start the summit bid.

The team has climbed more than half of the route and continues the ascent in conditions of settled bad weather.

After successful summit Mt. Erydag, Caucasus, via a very hard route within the framework of the Russian Championship a youth combined team is going to arrive at 0.52 on Sunday by train Volgograd - Ulan-Ude. Greet the young heroes: E.Belyaev, A.Komissarov, I.Loginov.

"WHITE ZOMBIE", 8c, onsight, and "BIOGRAPHIE", 9a+, Yuji Hirayama and Sylvain Millet starring.


Date update: 17.02.2006
Chomo Lonzo Team wins Cristal FFME

On February, 11, the next day after Piolet d'Or party in Grenoble, in Chamonix the team of Chomo-Lonzo Expedition was awarded en famille as the best French ascent of the year.
A huge crystal block was presented to Francois Marsini for long-term merits Michel Morgan, a permanent FFME secretary during for last 40 years, was given a showy send-off, Jean Christophe Lafaille and Lucien Berardini, a member of council of the wisiest, were remembered. Films were shown and the nominees presented their projects.
By tradition the evening ended in "La Caleche", a small restaurant with an excellent Savoy cooking. The nominees had a peaceful dinner and went home.


Krasnoyarians in Alps. Expedition chronicle.

Eiger. The team perseveres in efforts to climb a huge wall. The summit is like the horizon: does not want to come nearer in any way. On February, 11 N. Zakharov estimated the distance in 450m. Since then the guys climbed 10 pitches, and a new estimation - 6 pitches up to the roof.
Grandes Jorasses. The team is climbing in good rate. For 5 days it is done two thirds of the route and the route coincides No siesta now. They are working by two two-man teams in turn: Khvostenko-Litvinov, Pugovkin-Tsygankov.
Matterhorn. Denis Prokof'ev, the captain and main leader, is suddenly seized with illness. He's going to be evacuated and can not continue the ascent. S.Cherezov, J.Glazyrin, B.Rodikov keep climbing the Polish route. We wish the guys of good luck!
Meanwhile weather forecast in the Alps shows weather deterioration with snowfalls from this day. It will entail great labour upon those who are on the wall to gain their destination.

14.02.06. Clarification

Eiger. Yesterday the team climbed 3 pitches before spending the night and 2 fixed two ones more. Today they started under favor of the darkness. Having made 4 pitches they reached the planned ledge. Semilying spending the night. There are about 6 hard pitches ahead.
Grandes Jorasses. The guys climbed 2,5 pitches more. They went the plate and then found someone's traces. Spending the night on an old place. Tomorrow they will move the camp. Weather: it is cloudy, the guys are sitting in a fog, but the sky is clear at night.
Matterhorn. 8 pitches for today. We sit in a portaledge. The Polish route.

Eiger. 3 pitches more, very unreliable rocks, a place for spending the night was being searched for a long time: the guys were sleeping in sitting posture. There are about 9 pitches left.
Grandes Jorasses. 2 hard pitches more on vertical, destroyed rocks. Tomorrow the guys start an overhang or traversed to No siesta (M.Ru Comment: The route was first climbed by Jan Porvaznik and Stan Glejdura in July, 1986. It has long been considered one of the most demanding mixed routes in the Alps) 15 m at the left.
Matterhorn. The guys have carried the gear under the wall and plan to take off tomorrow.

Grandes Jorasses
11.02.06. . The team climbed 7 pitches (in total - 12) and got right under an overhang. Weather is .

12.02.06. 3 pitches were climbed. The camp is moved every day. There was a snowfall in the evening. An abrupt site of 4-5 pitches is expected further. 13.02.06 12:36. "Tell us the weather forecast. Now I'm belaying Viktor: his turn to be the first and he's already climbed one pitch. We are watching the helicopter taking out two French climbers from the summit for an hour. It seems it is common practice here: to ascend, to call and to be taken to Chamonix in one hour.
Finally they are managed to on board and the helicopter flew away. Thank goodness! Snowfall alighting right on our heads and noise in the mountains stopped. Thank you for good forecast!"

Eiger. 11.02.06. About 3 pitches direct upwards for today. The team is right up on the summit bastion, it's still 450 meters left. They have got 7 ropes to get the planned ledge where to organize a comfortable camp: a platform for a tent is going to be a hammock from a strong fabric filled with snow and pitched properly. 12.02.06. One pitch more. The sky started to be tightened.

12.02.06. Tomorrow the team plans to get the gear under the wall and will constantly watch over weather forecast.
Erydag. The guys are already in Makhachkala.

Erydag. Summit! Evgeny Belyaev, Alexey Komissarov and Igor Loginov have climbed Efimov's route 6 Russian grade against heavy weather. Congratulations!!!
Matterhorn. J. Glazyrin report: "We have not climbed the last 300 meters due to a wind storm. Descended to the bottom hut and plan to have a rest in the city tomorrow. The main ascent is planned in 3-4 days".
S.Cherezov's tag line: "Stones are just flying in the air!"
Eiger. Climbed 2 pitches, the wall is very hard after a snowfall.
Grandes Jorasses. We have taken off. 5 pitches are done. We are living in a portaledge. Weather is .

10.02.06. Eiger.
A huge amount of snow has being ped out for the last day. Yesterday the team climbed about 5 pitches and then had to bail due to a great avalanche dangerous. Further they are going to climb on a direct line right up to the summit. Weather improved. A tent is seen from the below.
09.02.06. Grandes Jorasses. A.Pugovkin informs:
"We are in a hut waiting for weather improvement. The forecast is bad till Saturday.

09.02.06. Grandes Jorasses. Ekaterina Roerich's message:
"I've got the following information:
7.02.06. The team set off from Chamonix up to the hut, done the second carry.
8.02.06. Weather deteriorated, it started snowing, the guys are sitting under the wall hoping for the weather (under the forecast it will be in 2 days). The route is to be new, is a little more to the right from "No siesta".
Route is observed well, large photos were printed. I think, they estimated needed time to climb it, therefore allow themselves to wait for good weather a little. But if weather improvement does not take place, the guys will start to climb on any weather. At least, they are in a very fighting mood. The crux begins in second third of the route.
Let's wait."

08.02.2006. Erydag
We are climbing we are fine there are about 6 pitches up to the summit. A strong wind blows and it is rather cold. 09.02.2006. Erydag. 3 pitches more.
Tomorrow we plan to make a final push, probably, we will succeed. Strong wind. A portaledge with us sitting in it are just thrown up.

08.02.2006. Matterhorn. Guys climb on classics with spending the night for acclimatization.
It's snowing and tomorrow things will settle into shape: follow up or down.

08.02.2006. Eiger. A storm. We are dug-in at a snow ledge. The guys are climbing, collecting all cornices on the wall in spite of a stormy wind. Weather is very bad. Having climbed less than one pitch they had to dug-in.

Mt. Nakhar
Four people are feared to have been killed in an avalanche collapsed and engulfed a camp on the night of the February 13/14 in the area of Mt. Big Nakhar, Makharskoe gorge, North Caucasus, southern Russia, Karachai-Circassian Republic, about 116 kilometers to the south of the republic's capital.

In the Ministry of Emergency Measures informed the names of lost climbers: Andrey Bychkov from Moscow, Sergey Tabakov from Engels (Saratov area), Sergey Rashitov from Norilsk and a ministry rescuer Konstantin Dorro. Another climber Dmitry Golubev from Maikop with a heavy trauma of his backbone was hospitalized.

In total there were eight climbers in the camp planned to ascend Mt. Nakhar (3780m).

Steve House and Vince Anderson won Piolet d'Or 2005 for their ascent Nanga Parbat, 8125m, in alpine style: a new route via The Central Pillar of the Rupal Face (4,100m, M5/5.9, WI4), September 1-8, 2005, 6 days up to the summit and 2 days descent.

Detals about nominees

Krasnoyarians in Alps

Eiger. The team has climbed 4 hard pitches up to a snow ledge.
Erydag. Snowfall started again, a strong wind is settling. The guys are in 8 pitches up to the summit.

Eiger. Yesterday they climbed two very hard pitches on system of cornices. Spent the night right there.
Erydag. It stopped snowing. The guys are on the route: they have passed a half of the route. The wind is very strong.

Grandes Jorasses.
Greetings to everybody!
We are fine. Having done the first carry of part of our gear under the route beginning we descended to Chamonix. Weather holds good. 5 French teams were working on the wall simultaneously. Tomorrow we plan a day of rest, then we will set off for the summit push if weather allows.

Erydag. N.Zakharov reports: "The team keeps climbing in pugnacious spirits". According the specified data - via Efimov's route.

Eiger. Under weather forecast "clear" window holds till February, 7. Then there will be deposits. The group decided to use a weather window. Yesterday they started to open a new line: in the bottom part between American and Czech direct lines, higher - a combination of routes leading directly to the summit. Yesterday 9 pitches were made.

04.02.06. Teams' Positions
Grandes Jorasses. Everything is OK. Tomorrow we will descend to the base.
Matterhorn. Yesterday they did the second carry up to the hut. The sun, warm weather, resort: people are skiing, but the guys were hauling their sacks. Today under the plan - a trek under the wall, tomorrow - an acclimatization climb on classics for 2-3 days. A small AMS.
Eiger. Today - an acclimatization climb.
Erydag. Now everything around is covered with snow 0,4 m thick. Avalanches are thundering down. The guys sit, wait and do not climb anywhere...

03.02.06. Teams' Positions
Grandes Jorasses. The team yesterday lifted cargoes up to the hut and spent the night there. Today it's the second day of working on the route.
Matterhorn. Yesterday late at night they reached the hut. "Acclimatization is in full swing". Today the guys continue gear carry. It's warm.
Eiger. Yesterday, not without adventures, the team reached up to Grindelwald and spent the night in a tent under the wall. Today under the plan - gear carry and wall's reconnaissance.
Erydag. Yesterday it was a day of rest after we all the day long were carrying the gear. Wind is strong, temperature is negative 10 and there is not enough snow there.

Date update: 9.02.2006
Alps - 2006
02.02.06. Krasnoyarians in Alps.

Teams' Positions Matterhorn. The team arrived in Zermatt, late at night and spent the night in hotel. Today under the plan - to make the first full carry in a hut.
Weather is excellent.

Grandes Jorasses: the team set off for acclimatization for 4 days. Weather is excellent. There is not enough snow in Chamonix .

Eiger: Yesterday the team was still in Wiesbaden and today they are leaving to Switzerland.

* outside of the projects "Alps - 2006": Erydag, 3925m, Caucasus, Mountains of Dagestan, Chekhy-Tchay gorge: the team reached up to Kurush yesterday.

30.01.06 Alps- 2006
Krasnoyarians in Alps. The first stop: Frankfurt.

After we successfully flied to Frankfurt. Our friends gave us a warm welcome. And then we split into several groups to spend the night in Germany: Matterhorn team - in Ostelsheim at Robert Shtainer, Grandes Jorasses team in Rust at Mike Terekhin, Eiger team - in Wiesbaden at Johanna Zopf.
We have already bought gas and food. Tomorrow the tings are going under the plan: Grandes Jorasses team will leave to Chamonix, the day after tomorrow Matterhorn team - to Zermatt, Eiger team - to Grindelwald.
Oleg Khvostenko is already in France and waits for a command signal.
Temperature is positive 3 in Wiesbaden. Like at a resort!

Greetings to everybody,
N. Zakharov

Date update: 10.02.2006
Katya Lafaille takes off for Nepal for farewell to her husband.

"Today, on February, 1, I'm leaving for Nepal. On February, 4, I will look out of the helicopter over Makalu for the last time and say him goodbye.
I will follow in his steps and say "Good-bye" from me, from our kid Tom and from Jeremy...
Then I will recover his personals that Jean-Christophe left in base camp.

Thanks all of you for paying in tribute to the memory of Jean-Christophe, the father, the husband, the unique climber".

Katya Lafaille

Makalu Winter Solo attempt. Jean-Christophe Lafaille has not got into communications for 72 hours.

Having left BC for Makalu (8463m) summit bid Jean-Christophe Lafaille has not got into communications for 72 hours.
"I asked for a recognition in the helicopter and also with a small plane, the helicopter which cannot go up beyond a certain altitude", - said Katya Lafaille, his wife and manager. The helicopter should also land near base camp to revise information at a cook and two porters stayed there.
Early the relatives of the mountaineer did not communicate with the base camp and talked directly to Jean-Christophe as he had a satellite phone. The last communication was on January 26: Lafaille was at 7600 meters and was going to reach the top the next day, on Friday, January 27. They planned to make the next communication the same day at the end of this attempt. But there wasn't any good news since then...

Alexander Khalyapin. Gestola Winter Solo.

Alexander Khalyapin (aka khalex) on January, 26, started at 4.00 am from the cofferdam of Gestola- Promezhutochnaya (Intermediate) (Churlenis pass) and at 7.50 summited Gestola (4860m), Bezengi Wall, Caucasus, Russia. He descended the camp next morning. The route is climbed with one spending the night on ascent.

Makalu Winter Solo attempt. Jean-Christophe Lafaille left BC and started the route.

The whole last week the wind was raging in base camp under Makalu. On December, 18, Jean-Christophe Lafaille together with two sherpas started to build up stone walls around of the tents to protect them against the wind that drifts sand and it is just impossible to hide even in closed door tent from it! It seems like in absolute hell!
From the middle of this week the wind is expected to be a little bit calmer.

Jean-Christophe Lafaille left BC and started the route.
If promised weather window is proved to be true, Lafaille plans to reach the summit (8463m) in five-six days.
In case of success he will become the first climber summited Winter Makalu.

Source: Katya Lafaille

Valle di Daone. Ice Climbing World Cup First Stage. Berger or Anthamatten? Results.

Last weekend in Valle di Daone, Italy, the first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup was carried out.
Organizers did not manage to range Samuel Anthamatten and Harald Berger: the guys were fighting for real showing stably identical results in qualifying and final rounds. After the challenging superfinal the judges decided to postpone this wild plan up to the next Cup stage and having awarded both fighters the first place they suggested to go home.
Herbert Klammer from Italy became third Simon Wandler from Switzerland placed fourth and the fifth - Simon Anthamatten.

Atwomen's Final: the temperature within the norm limits. Predicted victory of Ines Papert, Anna Torretta from Italy - the second and Stephanie Maureau from France- the third.

Results: men , women

Dave Graham repeated Esperanza V14 (8B +)!

He just arrived in Hueco Tanks, complained (as things go) of his injured fingers, told that he would like to try something easier in the nearest some days... and on Saturday succeed in sending Esperanza, V14 (8B +)!

Note: Esperanza - a bouldering line paved by Fred Nicole, 12 moves, V14 (8B +).

Dave sent it second go (first time he fell on the crux move).


Sioux Wall: First Winter Ascent. Old familiar faces: Ian Parnell and Oliver Metherell

On January, 1 Oliver Metherell and Ian Parnell succeed in the first winter climb of Sioux Wall on Ben Nevis.
Parnell on-sighted the crux, Metherell took one fall climbing the third pitch. The grade- VIII- by all appearances was appropriated for the long, exhausting crux pitch.
The Wall was first climbed by G. Grassam and Ian Nicholson in 1972 and was graded at HVS.
The line of winter route differs a bit from summer one and follows via on an abrupt continuous crack of the buttress.

Besides Metherell and Parnell repeated Digeridoo (VII, 6).


Olga Petrova informs:
News from Patagonia. Torres del Paine Central.

On January, 14, Igor (a.k.a. Khron), Arcady, Timur and Sergey finished doing the first full carry into base camp by their own efforts (without using horses and sherpas). Their tent has been already settled under Central Tower.

They asked to say hi to their native and to friends for them. All the guys are safe and sound, in good health and mood.

I met Khron in Puerto Natales on January, 8, then I was leaving to Torres and they were going to set off the next day. Then - after trekking round all the national park - we met again already under Torres.

I've got some photos but couldn't send them through Internet - cafe without a special program to minimize picture' size. I'll try to do that later.

What is the pleased thing for Russians to meet Russians here!

UIAA climbing provisional calendar 2006 International competitions on rock-climbing in 2006 (World Cup events, Championships, Festivals, Master classes)
Jean-Christophe Lafaille. Makalu Winter Solo attempt.

Acclimatization climbs are in progress. Jean-Christophe Lafaille continues Makalu "French" chronicle. On January, 8 according to the plan he got the camp at 6000m.
On January, 9 he was going to continue his way up to the saddle where to spend the night and made a route reco above the saddle before descending to base camp for rest.
As soon as weather gives chance Lafaille will attempt summit push.

Rock climbing and Olympics. To be or to not be?:)

Rock climbing will be revealingly represented under the Winter Olympic games 2006 in the small Italian town Bardonecchia (50 miles from Turin, the capital of Winter Olympiad). UIAA high-ranking officials managed to convince the Olympic comrades of necessity of carrying out of the festival. 35 world top-climbers will take part in speed and bouldering starts.
It won't be competitions, but such starts will help the officials to visualize rock-climbing and, probably, in the future they will positively decide a question about inclusion of rock-climbing in the list of Olympic sports.

Today, on 25 February Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) yearly award will be presented in Grenoble, France.

All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.

In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody!
Now it's 5 am on local time. We had to cease efforts to ascend Fitz Roy because of an objective danger of the route: a huge ice-fall hangs over the couloir and it's constantly under ice bombardment. We decided to change our plans and to climb Saint Exupery peak (2558m). We are going to start, summit and descend this day. The weather forecast is good for the first half of the day, but for the second is bad. We will try to work faster. Wish us good luck.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody.
Yesterday we descended in Chalten and in the very nick of time - got right into a global climbing party. The party was terrific and we had a great time. As always, Russian songs headed the bill. Alexander's singing already became a legend in Chalten. People recognize him in the street and almost nearly ask for an autograph.

Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in U on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.

After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.

Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.

For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.

Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.

Wish us of good luck.
Leonid, Alexander, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi! Having climbed the Mountain for two days we had to descend yesterday. We were too close to summit but got into a violent icefall right under the summit mushroom. Thank Heaven we are safe and sound but it was too dangerous there and decided to stop climbing and descend. Now we have a rest. We'll inform you about our further plans.
That's all on for today. Take care.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi everybody!
Yesterday we descended to El Chalten. Three days ago we hired horses and moved our base camp (150 kg!) in Camp-Bridwell. Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre is a very cosy camping area embowered in trees. A stunning view at Cerro Torre massif opens from there. There are a lot of aspiring Cerro Torre climbers and trekkers living there now. Weather was wonderful. However toward evening surprisingly beautiful clouds of fantastic colors and shapes reminding UFOs appeared in the sky. It's the typical sign of an impending storm.

At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.

Dean PotterA good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.

Tomas HuberTowards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.

Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.

Austrians & SashaThe ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".

As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.

Cerro Torre at dawnNow we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.

Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.

Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.

We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Alexander, Leonid, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody. Today we finally climbed up to Norwegian camp site. It took us rather much time.
People say that there is a bad weather forecast for the day after tomorrow and we do not know really what to do. We need two days to try for the summit.

Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Our greetings to everybody! Yesterday we reached Base Camp and homed in it. We found a lot of people there. Thomas Huber told us about his brother Alex Huber that had to left home because had wounded his eye (at least the story runs that). Weather has been standing magnificent for three days, and it hurts us that we arrived so late. We are afraid, that good weather will not hold for some days more and we will not have time to ascend. Tomorrow we are going to climb up to Norwegian camp site and , the day after tomorrow we plan to get the Col and if the weather is good we will make a summit push the next day.

That is all there is to it for today.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
We flied almost lost-free. Only two backpacks with our belongings, sleeping bags, etc. and a tent were lost en route. But as people say money makes the mare go and we are going to buy needed gear in El Calafate where we will take off tomorrow.

And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.

We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

Things are shaking down rapidly. They found Olga's backpack and delivered it. In an hour our plane departs to El Calafate. Our greetings to everybody.

Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.

As expected we bought all needed things in El Calafate. You can't pick and choose here because practically all the things sold there are made by one local company...

There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.

Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.

Alxander, Leonid, Olga.


 Ines PapertHarald Berger

Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Ice Boulder Champions

In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.

Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit:


The team successfully summited on January 29!
On January 29 the guys woke up early in the morning (4 a.m.) and started their summit bid. After they climbed the summit bastion and narrow rocky ridge, all the team reached the Kodar's summit at 9.00. Temperature was negative 43, but weather was breathless. That day all of them safe and sound descended to the base camp toward evening.

Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.

All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.

We congratulate and wait for the winners!

We have already climbed a half of the route. We abide by the schedule. On January 24 we made 3 pitches, it's a record for the present time. Yesterday we made only one pitch. Today two-man team of Dmitrienko and Tsyganov is next in turn to fix the rope on the route. In total, since 19 of January we made 13 pitches - it's approximately a half of the route. Yesterday the team in its full complement took off and now is making themselves at home in a tent settled in a small rocky niche that was found in the area of 12-th pitch.

We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.

Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.

We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.

Keep in touch with us!

For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. In total 9 pitches are climbed. Firm granite, cold, ice-covered rocks. Today Prokof'ev and Belyanin are working. They have to find a convenient site for the first hanging camp. Temperature is negative 30.

New world champions in ice-climbing. January, 21-22, The 2nd World Championships for Difficulty- and Speed Ice Climbing and the 1st Swiss Ice Climbing Masters in Difficulty and Speed, Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.


Difficulty. Men

1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
2 ANTHAMATTEN Simon (Switzerland)
3 LEICHTFRIED Albert (Austria)

4 BENDLER Markus (Austria)
5 ANTHAMATTEN Samuel (Switzerland)
6 WANDELER Simon (Switzerland)
7 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
8 ODERMATT Urs (Switzerland)

Difficulty. Women

1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
2 PAPERT Ines (Germany)
3 MAUREAU Stephanie (France)

4 BUCHMANN Kirsten (Germany)
5 TORRETTA Anna (Italy)
6 EYER Alexandra (Switzerland)
7 FILIPPOVA Maryam (Russia)
8 SHABALINA Maria (Russia)

Speed. Men

1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
2 FAYZULLIN Igor (Russia)
3 CHVED Nikolai (Russia)

4 HOFER Lars (Switzerland)

Speed. Women

1 KOULIKOVA Natalia Russia
2 OLEINIKOVA Joulia Russia
3 TORRETTA Anna Italy

Photo: Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,

On Saturday January, 22, Sergey Borisov was killed in an automobile accident in Ekaterinburg. I do not know, what I can add any more. Suddenly I realized that I have nothing to say if it happens to my friends... because it is not right..

Sergey Borisov

Master of Sport of International Grade
For a long time he was the captain of Sport Club of Army of Ural military region.
He became four times champion of USSR, twice champion of Russia, numerous prize-winner of different national championships.

The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.

1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6).

1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".

1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".

2002 - Everest via Northern col.

2004 - Jannu North Face, summiter


Everything is turning out well. We dug a cave and sorted out the problem of fire wood. Three two-man teams (Prokofiev-Belyaev, Dmitrienko-Tsyganov, Tsygankov - Cherezov) worked alternating on the route for 3 days and made 7 pitches. It became warmer a little, -20, snowfalls. The Wall is ice- and snow-covered.

It's snowing, temperature is -20. 5 pitches are made.

Kodar-2005. Nikolay Zakharov called: We continue to make our base camp more comfortable. There is a lot of snow. We clear away the beaten track to the wall. It's -35. Our greetings to everybody!

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Till the end this expedition was very hard
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than - 40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue. We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the jeeps to Kathmandu.

The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things.. In the evening he didnt come back to BC and we was very worry. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night.

The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have.). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long..

The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!

Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.

P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence first winter Summit as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray


Svetlana Boldykova(24.01.2005)
From January 15-23, 2005 the 2005 Snowboard World Championships took place in Whistler, Canada.
On January 18 Russians sportsmen showed good results: at Women's Parallel Giant Slalom (PGS - Olympic discipline) Svetlana Boldykova became the second, Ekaterina Tudigescheva - the forth and at Men's Parallel Giant Slalom Denis Salagaev was the ninth.

On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.

And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.



Ines Papert breaks record in Ouary Ice Park, USA
Igor Ivashura, CYKHAX ENT, Munich, informs:
This girl just went and did that left behind all the monsters of ice-climbing and showed the best result among men and women on the tenth annual "Ouary Ice Festival" (USA)!!!

Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.

The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.

Ines's result is really unique.

The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"

Total report

1 22:47 WILL GADD
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
13 16:42 ADAM STACK
5 13:53 SUE NOTT

Photo -

Georgian Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Film Festival N I A M O R I
In January-March 2005, in Georgia (former Soviet Union) Tbilisi will host the second annual Mountain Film Festival Niamori


18.01.05 Zakharov called from base camp:
16.01 The bad weather was.
17.01 We finally got to the area of ascent. The gorge is so narrow that the helicopter could not find any convenient site to land and we were dropped in deep snow from a hovering helicopter.

The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.

Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.

Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!

14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to take all our equipment and transport to the village that is 25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring for the sun....



"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.

One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15. We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing we summited.

This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...

Simone and Piotr reached the col and put up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers!...

Simone and Piotr

Petites Jorasses. First free climbing "Omega" route Britons Nick Bullock and Stuart MacAleese became the third team climbed historical Patrick "Gab" Gabarrou's and Ferran Latorre's route "Omega" on Petites Jorasses (Mt. Blanc), (700m, VI/5+,A3).

It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.


Ice-climbing. Jenny Lavarda and Hannes Pfeifhofer are the champions of Italy
The second stage of the Italian Ice-climbing championship "ITALIAN ALPINE CUP" finished at the last weekend in Val Passiria .
At men having got over all the grandees and merited runners as Bubu Mauro Bole and Herbert Klammer Hannes Pfeifhofer, a 18-year climber, unexpectedly won the gold.
Jenny Lavarda, having switched off from rock-climbing on ice in this winter season, took part at such events for the first time and won by a head. Silvia Cian is the second and Monica Gemelli- the third.



GRANDES JORASSES. Linceul (4208m). Winter solo
Ferran Martnez is the Spanish climber soloed the "great classics" of GRANDES JORASSES: Linceul. Some days later his climb was repeated by other Spanish climber Eloi Callado.



The fifth summit under the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter" has been climbed
Sergey Shchepachkov informs:

On January, 9, 2005 a team of climbers (Ivan Artemov, Ivan Alentsev, Victor Afanasyev, Andrey Bukin, and Oleg Bibin) summited Mt. Kazbek (5033m) within the framework of the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter".
Weather during the ascent held ideal. I got cold and had to stop climbing and left the team during the summit push. Proshchenko Maxim and Grishnjachy Leonid had to abandon the team too. The route line went from Northern Ossetia side, through Genaldonskoe gorge via Pastukhova route.

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.



Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
All the night the wind shook the tents and it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud, showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col...

Simone and Piotr

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC (5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going up.

The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...

Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.


Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!. The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult to be...

We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.

Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek that still were in C1.

Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....

Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till 7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek "sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe make already a first summit attempt....

Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?

Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise well and also using that point as the starting point for the summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40 degree and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope till C1.

Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend

The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.

Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550 m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.

Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.

The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold, today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600 m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind... but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get the first technical problem.

Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...

Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.

Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...

We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...

After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible. So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base camp (log way....)

Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...

Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.

On the way to C1(31.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac, below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp I. The altitude is about 6550.

Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.

Ciao, Simone

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32 yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.

Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.

We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!

base camp

Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry 40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA. Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather is still good even the temperature went down in compare of one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team

I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead, I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages. We're sentries up here

We arrived in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.

A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.

The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible
Bye, Simone

Translation by Jonathan Etes

German TOP-climbers Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz did not sustained the most severe gale-force wind and bailed their first ascent Murallon, North face, (Patagonia).

Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma.
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.

Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.

In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra stupid discussion.

Simone, Darek, Piotr

On 12 December Jean-Christophe Lafaille returned to the base camp after his challenge summit (on December 11) Shishapangma.

It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.

The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France,




International calendar for ice-climbing competitions, 2005 season





CHABOT Alexandre
 EITER Angela

World Cup 2004 Top-10

1. MRAZEK Tomas CZE 560.00
2. CHABOT Alexandre FRA 516.00
3. CRESPI Flavio ITA 333.00
4. PETRENKO Maxim UKR 322.00

5. USOBIAGA Patxi ESP 317.00
6. POUVREAU Grome FRA 291.00
7. MILLET Sylvain FRA 268.00
8. FUSELIER Mickael FRA 249.00
9. VERHOEVEN Jorg NED 248.00
10. PUIGBLANQUE Ramn Julin ESP 240.00

1. EITER Angela AUT 535.00
2. SARKANY Muriel BEL 525.00
3. EYER Alexandra SUI 364.00

4. GROS Natalija SLO 364.00
5. CIAVALDINI Caroline FRA 356.00
6. SCHPF Bettina AUT 345.00
7. LAVARDA Jenny ITA 299.00
8. VIDMAR Maja SLO 287.00
9. CUFAR Martina SLO 286.00
10. SHALAHINA Olha UKR 245.00

World Cup. Latest Stage. Kranj, SLO

1. Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
2. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov (RUS)
3. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
2. Natalija Gros (SLO)
3-4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
3-4. Sandrine Levet (FRA)

Simone Moro. Shisha Winter
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.

After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp.

Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.

Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch

About expedition

UIAA Worldcup Difficulty Event Brno (CZE) 2004. Results.
The Winners - Flavio CRESPI, Italy, and Alexandra EYER, Switzerland. At men Tomas MRAZEK, CZE, and Alexandre CHABOT, France, are the second and the third accordingly. And at women the Russian Olga SHALAGINA (!!!) is the second and Maja VIDMAR, Slovenia is the third.

See all the results


Fred Rouhling opens his new line Mandallaz drive, 9
Fred Rouhling has just declared about his successful redpoint of the new project in d'Allonzier la Caille - Mandallaz drive, 9.
In 1993 only lazy did not mock Fred when he declared the first French 9, Hugh line. However in 2001, 8 (!) years later, the category was confirmed by Italian climber Alessandro Lamberti.
1995 "Practically everyone in this world had to doubt of his judiciousness" - It is about Fred Rouhling and his challenging Akira, 9b. Do you really think the world delightfully looked into his eyes?
1997 l'Autre Cote du Ciel (The other side of the sky), the second 9, sent by Fred. Then everything went without any autographs....
3d "9a" of Fred was Fred Nicole's "bain de sang"
2004 Mandallaz drive, 9. Who would doubt... Go, Fred! :)


Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton
On October 5, the two climbed six new pitches, totaling about 1,000 feet of thin ice and mixed climbing. The new route, which is unnamed, started just left of the classic North Face route and ended at the Hossack-McGowan Couloir, which they followed to the East Ridge and eventually reached the summit.
The crux was found on the second pitch, where unprotectable ice forced Koch into a soaking-wet, womb-like feature behind the ice until he could bust through and pull a roof to easier ground. He spent the next belay wringing out his clothes and pouring water out of his boots. A sudden storm then dumped buckets of graupel, which cascaded down the face in one of the most spectacular sights I have witnessed in the mountains, Koch said. When the storm stopped, they continued upward through four more good pitches of ice, including a winding WI 5 pitch that Koch called the nicest ice pitch he has ever done on a mountain route.

Rating of rock-climbers - the world leaders. Bouldering. Speed. Difficulty
In bouldering and speed the sportmen have been already put in their places, "all sweets" are given away, in difficulty there are two events more ahead...

UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004


1. Sandrine Levet, France
2. Olga Bibik, Russia
3. Julia Abramchuk, Russia

1. Daniel Dulac, France
2. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
3. Jerome Meyer, France


1. Tatyana Ruyga, Russia
2. Anna Saulevich, Russia

1. Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
2. Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky, Russia
3. Alexander Peshehonov, Russia

Difficulty. The current rating

1. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
2. Angela Eiter, Austria
3. Bettina Schopf, Austria

1. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
2. Alexandre Chabot, France
3. Gerome Pouvreau, France

All results

Rock Climbing. World Cup in Valence, France. Difficulty.
The winners

1. CHABOT Alexandre FRA
2. Bindhammer Christian Germany
1. Muriel Sarkany Belgium
2. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
2. CUFAR Martina SLO
4. Jenny Lavarda ITA
5. Angela Eiter AUT

The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.

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