Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Marble Wall. Summit!
SMS from Denis Urubko
February, 28, 2006.
Every team's climber was at the summit. Then we got back to the camp at 6100 where are going to have a drink and to continue descent.
February, 27, 2006.
News from Kazakhstan. Marble Wall 2006.
"The team has climbed up a plateau at 5000 m" On February, 23, for old time's sake celebrating Defender of the Motherland Day, the team of TsSKA of Kazakhstan will start the next expedition. This time the aim of ascent: Marble Wall (6400 m) located in the east of the country in Central Tien-Shan.
The mountain was first ascended by a team led V. Shipilov in 1953. The climbers plan to repeat the route that is 5A-graded and goes right on the shortest line from bottom up to the summit.
The TsSKA team is famous for the "Alpine" style ascent. In winter such climbs is a real a leap in the dark because of risk to get in bad weather.
In structure of the team are skilled sportsmen from Almaty and Kustanai. The team's leader is Sergey Samoilov, Master of Sports, TsSKA trainer. Numerous team's ascents in December and January shown a good level of climbers' technical and physical readiness. Therefore they expect a breakthrough in their attempt.
Transfer (from Almaty up to a frontier post Bayankol and the mining settlement of Zharkulak) and father support and provision are implemented up by Almaty Rescue Service (051). The further way in the glacial zone the team is going to do in 4-5 days.
The ascent is going to be one of the stages of team's training for the spring season in the Himalayas. Some Kazakhstan climbers aim to open a new route on Manaslu (8163 m).
SMS from Denis Urubko.
Everest Northern Face for free riders!
Tomas Olsson, Swedish climber and rider, live in Chamonix, is going to make ski descent Everest North face in this spring (3000 meters of altitude difference)
In 2004 he already managed to climb Cho Oyu (8201 m) (without artificial oxygen and high altitude porters) and make "clean" continuous ski descent down the summit.
Alex Chabot and C in Argentina. Alex Chabot, Romain Pagnoux, Chris Lindner and Phil Maurel in Bariloche, Argentina
Krasnoyarians in Alps. February, 19.
Matterhorn. A day of the portaledge hauling up.
Nikolay Zakharov's letter:
Krasnoyarians in Alps. Grandes Jorasses. Summit!
A growing child, Adam Ondra, just out of his 13th birthday, onsighted two 8b +.
Adam Ondra is just out of his 13th birthday. The star boy decided to take two weeks off from his intensive schoolwork to climb a little in Spain.
One more Czech kid of great abilities: Martin Stranik, five 8à+ onsight.
15-year old Martin Stranik also found an opportunity to take two weeks off from his schoolwork and to devote free time to much more pleasant and useful pastime more specifically rock-climbing in Spain.
It seems it's time to make a doping control of vitamins Czech children are dosed :-)
Old pottage is sooner heated than new made. Dani Andrada: ninth 9 in his bank.
A Spanish "veteran" Dani Andrada managed to send his ninth 9 for the last twelve months: this time Barrakito puro y duro, 9a in Sant Llorent de Montgai. Yesterday he also redpointed Encerrado, 8c+.
Provisional competition calendar: 8 boulder and 10 lead events
Date update: 20.02.2006
Four from five climbers trapped in a mountain gorge after an avalanche in Mt. Nakhar area and evacuated by the helicopter of the Russian border guards have left the Republican Hospital in Cherkessk.
Four from five climbers trapped in a mountain gorge after an avalanche in Mt. Nakhar area and evacuated by the helicopter
of the Russian border guards have left the Republican Hospital in Cherkessk.
Date update: 20.02.2006
Krasnoyarians in Alps. Eiger. "We climbed, climbed and finally summited. And, thank God, managed to descend".
08:35. A gale-force wind. Radio communication at 10 o'clock.
11:23 Weather is bad we are fixing our two last ropes and tomorrow will start a summit push rain or shine.
08:30 The team is waiting out the bad weather at 6th pitch. 6 pitches more are fixed.
They opened a new line on 1800 meter wall directly to the summit, "Russian Direct". The ascent accomplished in extreme weather conditions under plentiful European snowfalls and strongest winds.
The team reached the summit at 12.30 on February 17 blown over a gale-force wind and descended about 12 hours to BC on deep unreliable snow, in snowstorm, at zero visibility. All of them are safe and sound.
This ascent is a part of the Big Krasnoyarsk Project - simultaneous conquest of three greatest European walls: Eiger, Grandes Jorasses and Matterhorn.
"WHITE ZOMBIE", 8c, onsight, and "BIOGRAPHIE", 9a+, Yuji Hirayama and Sylvain Millet starring.
Date update: 17.02.2006
Chomo Lonzo Team wins Cristal FFME
On February, 11, the next day after Piolet d'Or party in Grenoble, in Chamonix the team of Chomo-Lonzo Expedition was awarded en famille as the best French ascent of the year.
Krasnoyarians in Alps. Expedition chronicle.
Eiger. Yesterday the team climbed 3 pitches before spending the night and 2 fixed two ones more. Today they started under favor of the darkness. Having made 4 pitches they reached the planned ledge. Semilying spending the night. There are about 6 hard pitches ahead.
12.02.06. 3 pitches were climbed. The camp is moved every day. There was a snowfall in the evening. An abrupt site of 4-5 pitches is expected further.
13.02.06 12:36. "Tell us the weather forecast. Now I'm belaying Viktor: his turn to be the first and he's already climbed one pitch. We are watching the helicopter taking out two French climbers from the summit for an hour. It seems it is common practice here: to ascend, to call and to be taken to Chamonix in one hour.
Eiger. 11.02.06. About 3 pitches direct upwards for today. The team is right up on the summit bastion, it's still 450 meters left. They have got 7 ropes to get the planned ledge where to organize a comfortable camp: a platform for a tent is going to be a hammock from a strong fabric filled with snow and pitched properly. 12.02.06. One pitch more. The sky started to be tightened.
09.02.06. Grandes Jorasses. Ekaterina Roerich's message:
08.02.2006. Matterhorn. Guys climb on classics with spending the night for acclimatization.
08.02.2006. Eiger. A storm. We are dug-in at a snow ledge. The guys are climbing, collecting all cornices on the wall in spite of a stormy wind. Weather is very bad. Having climbed less than one pitch they had to dug-in.
Four people are feared to have been killed in an avalanche collapsed and engulfed a camp on the night of the February 13/14 in the area of Mt. Big Nakhar, Makharskoe gorge, North Caucasus, southern Russia, Karachai-Circassian Republic, about 116 kilometers to the south of the republic's capital.
In the Ministry of Emergency Measures informed the names of lost climbers: Andrey Bychkov from Moscow, Sergey Tabakov from Engels (Saratov area), Sergey Rashitov from Norilsk and a ministry rescuer Konstantin Dorro. Another climber Dmitry Golubev from Maikop with a heavy trauma of his backbone was hospitalized.
In total there were eight climbers in the camp planned to ascend Mt. Nakhar (3780m).
Steve House and Vince Anderson won Piolet d'Or 2005 for their ascent Nanga Parbat, 8125m, in alpine style: a new route via The Central Pillar of the Rupal Face (4,100m, M5/5.9, WI4), September 1-8, 2005, 6 days up to the summit and 2 days descent.
Krasnoyarians in Alps
Erydag. N.Zakharov reports: "The team keeps climbing in pugnacious spirits". According the specified data - via Efimov's route.
04.02.06. Teams' Positions
03.02.06. Teams' Positions
Date update: 9.02.2006
Alps - 2006
02.02.06. Krasnoyarians in Alps.
Teams' Positions Matterhorn. The team arrived in Zermatt, late at night and spent the night in hotel. Today under the plan - to make the first full carry in a hut.
Grandes Jorasses: the team set off for acclimatization for 4 days. Weather is excellent. There is not enough snow in Chamonix .
Eiger: Yesterday the team was still in Wiesbaden and today they are leaving to Switzerland.
* outside of the projects "Alps - 2006": Erydag, 3925m, Caucasus, Mountains of Dagestan, Chekhy-Tchay gorge: the team reached up to Kurush yesterday.
30.01.06 Alps- 2006
Greetings to everybody,
Date update: 10.02.2006
Katya Lafaille takes off for Nepal for farewell to her husband.
"Today, on February, 1, I'm leaving for Nepal. On February, 4, I will look out of the helicopter over Makalu for the last time and say him goodbye.
Thanks all of you for paying in tribute to the memory of Jean-Christophe, the father, the husband, the unique climber".
Makalu Winter Solo attempt. Jean-Christophe Lafaille has not got into communications for 72 hours.
Having left BC for Makalu (8463m) summit bid Jean-Christophe Lafaille has not got into communications for 72 hours.
Alexander Khalyapin. Gestola Winter Solo.
Alexander Khalyapin (aka khalex) on January, 26, started at 4.00 am from the cofferdam of Gestola- Promezhutochnaya (Intermediate) (Churlenis pass) and at 7.50 summited Gestola (4860m), Bezengi Wall, Caucasus, Russia. He descended the camp next morning. The route is climbed with one spending the night on ascent.
Makalu Winter Solo attempt. Jean-Christophe Lafaille left BC and started the route.
The whole last week the wind was raging in base camp under Makalu.
On December, 18, Jean-Christophe Lafaille together with two sherpas started to build up stone walls around of the tents to protect them against the wind that drifts sand and it is just impossible to hide even in closed door tent from it! It seems like in absolute hell!
Jean-Christophe Lafaille left BC and started the route.
Source: Katya Lafaille
Valle di Daone. Ice Climbing World Cup First Stage. Berger or Anthamatten? Results.
Last weekend in Valle di Daone, Italy, the first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup was carried out.
Atwomen's Final: the temperature within the norm limits. Predicted victory of Ines Papert, Anna Torretta from Italy - the second and Stephanie Maureau from France- the third.
Dave Graham repeated Esperanza V14 (8B +)!
He just arrived in Hueco Tanks, complained (as things go) of his injured fingers, told that he would like to try something easier in the nearest some days... and on Saturday succeed in sending Esperanza, V14 (8B +)!
Note: Esperanza - a bouldering line paved by Fred Nicole, 12 moves, V14 (8B +).
Dave sent it second go (first time he fell on the crux move).
Sioux Wall: First Winter Ascent. Old familiar faces: Ian Parnell and Oliver Metherell
On January, 1 Oliver Metherell and Ian Parnell succeed in the first winter climb of Sioux Wall on Ben Nevis.
Besides Metherell and Parnell repeated Digeridoo (VII, 6).
Olga Petrova informs:
News from Patagonia. Torres del Paine Central.
On January, 14, Igor (a.k.a. Khron), Arcady, Timur and Sergey finished doing the first full carry into base camp by their own efforts (without using horses and sherpas). Their tent has been already settled under Central Tower.
They asked to say hi to their native and to friends for them. All the guys are safe and sound, in good health and mood.
I met Khron in Puerto Natales on January, 8, then I was leaving to Torres and they were going to set off the next day. Then - after trekking round all the national park - we met again already under Torres.
I've got some photos but couldn't send them through Internet - cafe without a special program to minimize picture' size. I'll try to do that later.
What is the pleased thing for Russians to meet Russians here!
UIAA climbing provisional calendar 2006 International competitions on rock-climbing in 2006 (World Cup events, Championships, Festivals, Master classes)
Jean-Christophe Lafaille. Makalu Winter Solo attempt.
Acclimatization climbs are in progress. Jean-Christophe Lafaille continues Makalu "French" chronicle. On January, 8 according to the plan he got the camp at 6000m.
Rock climbing and Olympics. To be or to not be?:)
Rock climbing will be revealingly represented under the Winter Olympic games 2006 in the small Italian town Bardonecchia (50 miles from Turin, the capital of Winter Olympiad). UIAA high-ranking officials managed to convince the Olympic comrades of necessity of carrying out of the festival. 35 world top-climbers will take part in speed and bouldering starts.
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All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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