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Alan Hinkes enters the top-club "14/8000"

On May, 30, 2005 the English climber Alan Hinkes summited Kangchenjunga - his 14th Mountain over 8000 meters and became the first Britain that has realized the dream to summit all 14 highest mountains of our planet.

Also this season Ed Viesturs summited Annapurna becoming the first American to join the "14/8000" or "five mile high club".

A.Odintsov and A.Ruchkin
The "Big Wall - Russian Way" project. In search of new object

Yesterday, on June, 8, the project leaders A.Odintsov and A.Ruchkin took off for Pakistan to conduct reconnaissance of the area. Mt. Masherbrum, 7820m, is considered as a possible object for the following ascent.

Wedding Atop Everest

Two deep in love Nepalese climbers, Moni Mulepati, 24, and Pem Dorjee, 23, got married this week on the Everest summit.
No long ceremonies, champagne and orchestra striking up the livelong Mendelson wedding march, anything temporal and superfluous around, - only snow, tremendous ice, solid metaphysics in toto.
Two minutes at the summit appeared quite sufficient to exchange their vows, tie the knot and take a short photo session for the future descendants.
They briefly took off oxygen masks to put traditional red powder on the bride's forehead according an old Nepalese tradition - the equivalent of exchanging rings.

Announcement: Literature. New book. Christophe Moulin. SoloS.

A new book authored by Christophe Moulin "Solos" (in French) is just out. The "monster" of mountaineering wrote about his eight year - solo - ascents. About the reasons, induced him to climb solo. About first experience. About impressions. About love to mountains.

You can order the book

All photos (number: 2)

Date update: 2.06.2005
New project: 2, West Face, (8611m), new route

The basic phase of the expedition will proceed from June till September, 2006. 20 sportsmen - the strongest Russian climbers from different cities of the country - will go to Pakistan from Moscow.
An expedition film-group will provide the team and shoot at the 2 summit.

From June, 15 till July, 25, 2005 the first stage of the expedition will start: the advanced group of the Russian climbers will approach under the foot of K2 West Face from Pakistan side where will set the base camp, scribe a future new route line and start fixing the rope on the beginning site of K2 West Face.

Olga Shalagina

Difficulty. Finals. Results.

1. Flavio Crespi, Italy
2. Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Spain
3. Patxi Usobiaga, Spain

4. Cedric Lachat, Switzerland
5. Alexandre Chabot, France
6. Kilian Fishhuber, Austria
7. Sylvain Millet, France
8. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
11. Maxim Petrenko, Ukraine

1. Angela Eiter, Austria
2. Sandrine Levet, France
3. Maja Vidmar, Slovenia
4. Olga Shalagina, Ukraine

5. Caroline Ciavaldini, France
6. Lucjia Franko, Slovenia
7. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
8. Katharina Saurwein, Austria
10. Olena Kryvomos, Ukraine
16. Eugeniya Malamid, Russia

Complete results


Melungtse Expedition. Nikolay Totmyanin reports from Katmandu:

"We are in Katmandu now: getting used to civilization and gathering to back home. We will arrive in Moscow only on June 1: many things in our lives go by contraries. On Saturday we saw Carlos home.
We have not summited the Mountain though only a "simple" relief and a couple of days of climbing left up to the top. Jury Koshelenko still has some problems with health: the consequences of an old trauma of his spine.
But we really climbed a cool route - have ice-climbed and dry-tolled our fill! "The destiny is not a pure chance, it is a question of our choice it is not that you should wait, but that you have achieved".

Ovchinnikov Eugeny
Russian Rock-Climbing Championship 2005 in Ekaterinburg. Difficulty. Results. Krasnoyarsk forever :-)


1. Ovchinnikov Eugeny, Krasnoyarsk
2. Bashkirtsev Eugeny, Irkutsk
3. Rakhmetov Salavat, /Moscow
4. Terentyev
5. Samifullin
6. Sinitsyn Sergey, Ekaterinburg
7. Pekarev Michael, Moscow
8. Gelmanov Rustam, Moscow

1. Chereshneva Yana, Krasnoyarsk
2. Chereshneva Venera, Krasnoyarsk
3. Korolkova Ekaterina, Krasnoyarsk> 4. Yaemurd Ekaterina, SPb
5. Alekseeva Xenia, SPb
6. Bibik Olga, Krasnoyarsk
7. Tarasova Tatyana, Tolyatti
8. Saulevich Anna, Ekaterinburg

A helicopter of Eurocopter series, EADS European aviation group branch, on May, 14, 2005 fixed a world record, having flied at the highest altitude around Mt Everest.

A French pilot, Delsesalle Didier, made launching of helicopter (Ecureuil/AStar AS350 B3) from base camp in Lukla (2866m) and reached the highest altitude around Mt Everest 8 850 m and after 3-min 15 sec hovering safely returned back.

On May, 15 the flight was repeated.

The previous record was achieved on November 2, 2004, in Himalayas, by the Indian crew, when the chopper of SA 315 Lama, designed under license Eurocopter and with engine tuning took off at 7670 m.

"We wanted to show ability of our chopper to work at high altitude. Our business rivals, American company Bell, also made an attempt to fly to the Everest, but they did not succeed", - the representative of Eurocopter company Jean-Louis Espes noticed.

The new world record gives a way to reconsider also the concept of high-altitude rescue operations organization.


Sergey Bogomolov. 14 World "8-thousand" Mountains Project. Manaslu. Brief-report about the last 30 days of the expedition.

For the tens day of staying in BC Giya Tortladze and I made 2-nd climb and got acclimatized at 6900 m. Other teams worked under their own tactical plans, but then continuous nine-days snow and windy bad weather began.

A German team was the first, that having used a limit of time, had to bail and its losses were the most appreciable: 12 tents with gear have remained at 6900 m and 7200 in "depot".

But when zealously run up and jumped other 1300 m at once from C1 to C2, we found out only at plane snow slope: all our tents, all equipment just vanished.
The nature has shown "who is the owner here". At 2.00 pm a blizzard that had already begun made us quickly coming to our mind and we started to escape downwards from obviously tragical final.
And though our partners-Spaniards had everything they needed to keep climbing (they headed to C2 for the first time), they decided not to risk and test destiny.

The Mountain once again showed its tough character. It is not enough, that it banned our ascent. It took away our gear. The detailed information hardly later.

Rock-Climbing. Youth European Cup, Second stage, Imst (AUT). Starring: David Lama and Charlotte Durif.

On May, 21-22 in Imst the medallists of Youth European Cup were determined.
Ivan Kaurov was the 4th and Ekaterina Malysheva - the 7th (both from St. Petersburg) as the best of Russian climbers at competition of European Youth Cup. Their coach is Vladimir Kaurov, SPb.

Difficulty. Results

All photos (number: 9)


Expedition Chomo-Lonzo 2005. The Happy End

May, 21, Saturday, 7.30 pm local time. Christian Trommsdorff reports:
We are OK, after 13 hours of continuous hard work our effort were rewarding and at 6.15 pm we stood on Chomo Lonzo Central (7 540 m). We had to conquer rather difficult rocky site before getting the summit snow slope. It was very cold, a wind was from the West. Now we are at approximately 7400m and hope to descend to the camp at 7100m before dark. We are tired, but pleased immeasurably!

May, 22, Sunday, 8.30 pm local time. Christian Trommsdorff calls:
We are at 6200m. It is all over but the shouting. Nothing can prevent our returning to the base camp any more. And if it is necessary we are ready to march all the night long. To tell the truth, yesterday the things appeared a little bit more difficultly, than we expected: all the night long we were rappelling, delicate traversing, and having lost a lot of time, we came in the camp at 7100m in early morning at 4.00 am! Exhausting jogging:) But now - we feel absolute happiness.

Our yaks are waiting in BC, all is in readiness for forwarding. Expedition is finished.
Vive la France! :)

Source: Jean-Claude Marmier, President Committee of French Federation of Himalaya,

Melungtse, North Face. News from Jury Koshelenko:

On May, 20
We made one pitch and not less than 15 ones stay up to the summit. My state of health declines.
We called the doctor from Abramov's expedition. He assumes pulmonary edema and recommends to descend. Finally we made a resolve to go back. The unique variant - via the route of ascent. We leave the zone of radio communication.

On May, 19
We climb the very difficult ridge. The next-to-last sitting spending the night was very exhausting. And today we climbed up only a little. We assumed that we needed three days of working more. All of us do not feel well. I've got by back hurting very much, probably, the consequences of an old trauma of the backbone caused by heavy load and hypothermia affect. We try to treat doing injections.

On May, 18
Everything is all right. Today we got out on the ridge. It took us five days to climb the North wall. 31 pitches, basically every one is about 60 meters. The wall is very complex - 6B + (Russian grade).

Weather spoils during afternoon every day. And particularly everything around is covering with wind and snow. But we are already in our tent, drink cocoa. The last spending the night was in sitting position. We sat three together on an ice ledge of 40 degrees. All the night long we were slipping down and fanning away snow. After we have reached the ridge our things went easier, I hope all the cruxes we have climbed. Would the weather be a bit better..... But it has been snowing all the time....

Source: Larisa Martykina,

Last weekend Valery Rozov had his awe-inspiring jubilee - 6000 skydiving jumps

In this occasion the formation named 21-way took place on DZ (Dropzone) Stupino.

Zeml'yansky Sergey, Zyablikov Konstantin, Kovalev Anton, Kovalev Dima, Komkov Dima, Kulakov Sasha, Malykh Oleg, Masolov Misha, Nesterov Oleg, Olshansky Pasha, Osipov..., Pukhov Ilya, Razomazov Misha, Razomazov Sergey, Rozov Valera, Rozova Natasha, samotsvetov Kirill, Sidorov Gena, Tivelkova Ira, Shenin Sergey, Jurash Igor

Air operators:
Fat'yanov Sasha, Voronov Sasha.

All photos (number: 6)

Expedition Chomo-Lonzo 2005

May, 19, 4.00 pm local time, base camp. Christopher Moulin informs:
This morning occurred clear, windless and frosty. After 48 hours of expectation of "weather window" at 6800m, the group Trommsdorff-Graziani-Wagnon, at last, became active.
Round midday we examined them through the field glasses at the northern top, already descending to the pass at 7000m that divides northern and central Chomo Lonzo summits.

8.00 pm local time. Christian Trommsdorff informs:
Everything comes up roses, we are in high feather and shape. Having taken advantage of opportunity, we set conditionally comfortable camp directly at the foot of the summit ridge at 7100m. Tomorrow we plan to leave it very early, we hope to summit:) Though, probably, we may postpone final push for Saturday: it depends on the situation. But, at least, nobody has intention to recede. "Window" promises to be short, wind amplification is expected in Sunday.

Doubts came thick upon...

On May, 18. at 8.00 pm. Christian Trommsdorff reports from camp at 6850m:
This day we are being kept in suspense. Wind amplified with blasts up to 80-100km/hour. We have to stay at the tent because of real risk to get frost bitten and other misfortunes. Only by the end of day we managed to fix three ropes to ease our tomorrow's push.
While the situation does not look encouraging.

Under the forecast some weather calm is expected tomorrow till Sunday evening. And tomorrow we have to make the decision, in view of modest stocks of food and gas, to be or not to be, that means to climb or not to climb.

Source: Jean-Claude Marmier, President Committee of French Federation of Himalaya,

The result of long-term data made by Chinese glaciologists became the fact that within last 30 years the area of glaciers on the Tsing Hai (Qing Hai) -Tibetan upland was annually reduced 147,36 square kilometer on the average.

After telemetering measurements and field survey of a site of the upland they found out that the area of glaciers on "the roof of the world " was reduced from 48859,18 sq. kilometers in 70-th years of 20-th century up to present 44438,4 sq. kilometers.

In particular scientists consider the situation in areas of Pamir, Himalayas, Kailas and Karakorum as the most serious.

According to expert opinion the reasons of this phenomenon became global climate warming and caused by this changes of local climate that have led to reduction of annual precipitation on "the roof of the world" and thus have caused deterioration of ecological environment in this area. Simultaneously it was reported the extreme development of cattle breeding, development of resort zones and construction of large objects sped up negative natural processes.

The area of Tsing Hai (Qing Hai) -Tibetan upland makes up around 2,5 million sq. kilometers or one quarter of land territory of China.

Chomo Lonzo FFME Expedition. Stephane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz - new route on Chomo Lonzo
On May, 16 at 20.30 Christophe Moulin from base camp and Christian Christian Trommsdorff from camp at 6100 report:

They went and did that! Stephane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz today summited Chomo Lonzo Northern top, 7199m: after three-day living on the route they laid a new and direct line on the West Face. The route seems worthy for a two-man team having Tauliraju 2002, Thalay-Sagar 2003 in their repertoire.

Ascent chronicle:
At dawn on Saturday Stephane and Patrice left the bivy set at 6000m, next night they spent at 6700m, and the in the Sunday evening were at 7000m near the ridge between North and Central Chomo Lonzo.
Then they reached the summit approximately at 18.00 on local time. Currently, the guys are sleeping a little bit above the summit on an excellent snow terrace. Tomorrow they plan to begin descent via the northwest ridge (the route gone by triumphers Trommsdorff-Graziani-Wagnon last week). Weather is now set fair, a wind is temperate.

The guys got tired, but that was worth it: a new strong route, clean Alpine style (the route was ascended in one push, the climbers were carrying everything they need. Each pitch was normally ascended only once and no fixed ropes were used and intermediate camps were set), high altitude, complex combinations of vertical ice gullies and delicate mixed-climbing.
Bravo! We are waiting for news from them from base camp (most likely on Wednesday)
The T.G.V. Group (Trommsdorff-Graziani-Wagnon) will spend the night at 6100m on the north summit NW ridge and tomorrow - another night at 6850m where they, presumably, will meet two Niceians and further the big adventure will be ahead... central summit attempt. (They have to do that within a week).

Source: Jean-Claude Marmier, President Committee of French Federation of Himalaya,

ChamFestival 2005. Winners and laureates. Russian Extreme Project leads the way. Congratulations!

On Sunday, May, 15, in Shamonix the winners of the Second Internet Film Festival were elected. They have handed it to base-jumpers :)

The first prize of jury

Fisher Tower. Authors Jerome Ruby and Dom Janiszewski, France. 9min 30.
B.A.S.E- jump made by Jerome Ruby and Dede Rhem from Titan, Fisher Tower (USA), in autumn 2003.

The FFME Prize (FEDERATION FRANCAISE MONTAGNE ET ESCALADE-French Mountain and Climbing Federation)

B.A.S.E.-climbing in Pakistan. Authors: Russian Extreme Project, Valery Rozov, Russia. 5min 43

The Audience Prize

High Fly Summits . Authors Ride The Planets, France. 13min 31 A travel from Mont Blanc up to Fuji with Souls Flyer's parachutes headed by Loic Jean Albert.

Jury ChamFestival

Jury presidents: Jean Afanassieff and Didier Lafond.
Jury: Karine Ruby, Antoine Chandelier, Bertrand Delapierre, Philippe Fragnol, Camille Jaccoux.

FFME Jury: Jean - Jean Claude Marmier, Bernard Domenech, Thierry Renault.

Prizes: Andy Parkin.

On May, 12 Ed Viesturs summited Mt. Annapurna, 8,091m. And consequently he has finished his 16-year quest under the name "First American summited all 14 "8-thousand" mountains of the planet".
Date update: 17.05.2005
Chomo Lonzo FFME Expedition. Cold night at 6800m
May, 15, 21.00. Base camp.
Communication was bad, we could find out the following:
first of all, the good news - the wind lost force at high altitude sometimes its blasts reach 30km/h. Despite of yesterday's storm, the "younger" guys, Yann Bonneville and Aymeric Clouet climbed up 6800m where they hoped to find two tents, sleeping bags and food that the group of the intimate comrades summited the Mountain (Trommsdorff-Graziani-Wagnon) had left for them last Sunday. But there were not any traces: the hurricane swept everything away. And what is more the situation was complicated the fact that the unreasonable children had only one down parka at halves.
Cold spending the night at 6800m was drawing close... "Well, we do not want to descend at all!" - they thought and stayed out. And survived.
It was a quite good lesson for the future: never rely on left at high altitude gear (wind, snow cover up any traces).

Next morning the guys felt very exhausted and left their arrogant plans about summit push. It was the uneasy decision if to take into account one and a half month of working on the mountain.

Such is life, such is mountaineering.

Part of the gear Aymeric and Yann left in the camp at 6800m, probably it is required to the three-man team Trommsdorff-Graziani-Wagnon, in their tomorrow's the central peak summit push and "big traverse" if, certainly, the weather conditions are tolerable.

Radio dialogue with Stephane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz was difficult. At 1.30 am they set a bivy at 7000m on the ridge connecting northern and central summits.
They told, that fatally got tired and were waiting for dawn to understand what to do further.

Weather is unstable. Despite of some decrease of the wind, the sky tightens, clouds are trailing snow and there is a touch of coming monsoon in the air.

Brief historical information: this day, on May, 15 1955, 50 years ago Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy were the first humanoids summited Makalu. Weather was improbable: incredible - excellent, silent and windless. Some days later Jean Franco, Guido Magnone, Jean Bouvier, Andre Vialatte, Serge Coupe and Pierre Leroux successfully repeated that. It was the great year for the French mountaineering.

This year it has not been any Makalu ascents from Chomo Lonzo side yet.

Source: Jean-Claude Marmier, President Committee of French Federation of Himalaya,

Date update: 17.05.2005
Chomo Lonzo FFME Expedition

May, 12, 20:30. A call from base camp:

The sky is still tightened, the temperature falls, and the wind amplifies (it's about 120km/h at 8000m according to the forecast).

A two-man team of Stephane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz left BC in the morning, the nearest three days promise to be sated for them.
Christophe Moulin has a crook knee (I do not know right or left one).
And he has to stay at the camp tomorrow, therefore two benjamins Yann and Aymeric will climb further independently having remained without their guru. Their program: Friday - to ascend up to the camp at 6100 m, Saturday - reach 6850 m, Sunday- have a rest, Monday - reach northern summit and, probably, the main central summit if the weather will be favorable.

As to Christian Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani and Patrick Wagnon, the guys continue to have a rest after their successful summit push.

Source: Jean-Claude Marmier, President Committee of French Federation of Himalaya,

Date update: 17.05.2005
ChamFestival 2005. 2nd edition. Shamonix. May, 13-14. David Oterman and TVMountain present:)

The Second Internet Film Festival runs on May, 13-14 in Shamonix.

Among 12 festival films:

- "Lotus Flower", 16-minute film directed by Guillaume Broust and Benoit Robert (FR). Starring top-climbers Stephanie Bodet, Beth Rodden, Tommy Caldwell, Arnaud Petit.

- "Robin Hood" (bouldering and rock-climbing): 11-minute film directed by Guillaume Broust and Laurent Lafouche (FR). Starring Toni Lamiche, Francois Lombard ...

- "B.A.S.E.-climbing in Pakistan ", Russian Extreme Project, 5-minute film directed by Valery Rozov.

- "Mali", GMHM and Arnaud Petit present 3-minute film about sending of top-routes in Mount Hombori, Mali.

- "Biographie 9a +", 11-minute film directed by Fred Ripert (FR): Sylvain Millet made "Biographie 9a +" on May, 24, 2004. Have you anything farther to say?

- "Fisher Tower", 9-minute film directed by Jerome Ruby and Dom Janiszewski (FR): Jerome Ruby, Dede Rhem and a B.A.S.E-jump from Titan, Fisher Tower (USA) in autumn 2003.

- Bleau Session. Bouldering in Fontainebleau. 8-minute film directed by Sylvain Dion (FR).

Pierre Tardivel. First performance: ski descent via Pointe du Midi North Face

Coronation of this mountain-skiing season: on April, 22 Pierre Tardivel for the first time made ski descent on 700-meter North Face of Pointe du Midi, the highest wall of this mountain massif. Steepness of the slope was from 45 up to 50 degrees.


Southern coast of Crimea. Red Stone and Sosnyak (Pine forest): new bouldering problems

New bouldering problems are set: found, cleared, and signed in the areas of Red Stone and Sosnyak (Pine forest).

More information and the guide-book see in RED STONE shop in the settlement of Krasnokamenka. You can also hire there boulder-pads (in gage of your passport). If you are going to climb with genial company the hire turns out cheap, and your will spend cheerful and unforgettable time.

In the shop please contact to Sergey Kovalev, the main bouldering inspirer in Crimea. He clears, signs lines and makes convenient start sites.

It seems if things are moving in such way soon the Crimea will become popular not only due to its interesting rock-climbing lines but also to wonderful bouldering areas.

You are welcome to climb bouldering in Crimea. It is really fascinating! Photo: Nakhodka Kovaleva (Kovalev's find) Sosnyak (Pine forest)

All photos (number: 9)

Source: Serik Kazbekov, Natalia Perlova

Date update: 17.05.2005
Chomo Lonzo FFME Expedition. First success in their efforts

8.05 Christian Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani and Patrick Wagnon reached Chomo Lonzo Northern Summit, 7199 m.


Alpindustria Andventure Team and 7 Summits Club Everest Expedition

Today all our team, except Lorenzo Gariano and Robert Ulf, has gone down in the base camp. For a long time, we did not gather under our big yellow tent, which all names "a caterpillar". The weather in the base camp is good now, very warmly. It would not be necessary to close tents at all. Today members of Indian expedition "Airforce" came to us on a visit.

Tomorrow the part of our team plans to leave in Xegar. Tomorrow also we plan to see off home Sergey Semenov and Dmitry Tsokur. Their term of stay in our mountaineering camp was finished. Their program was designed only up to North Col. All Members ad Sherpas are alive - are healthy, everyone send the regards, nobody coughs. In our tents is warm. The majority of members from others expeditions speak, that the Russian Base Camp is one of the best this year.

Angela Eiter
Veliko Tyrnovo, Bulgaria. Rock-climbing World Cup. First stage. Difficulty.



1. FLavio Crespi, Italy
2. Jorg Verhoeven, Netherlands
3. Cedric Lachat, Switzerland


1. Angela Eiter, Austria
2. Natalija Gross, Slovenia
2. Caroline Ciavaldini, France
4. Katya Vidmar, Slovenia

The Russians: Dmitry Sharafutdinov (Ekaterinburg) - 23-th, Ivan Kaurov (Saint Petersburg) - 26-th.
Jack Ovchinnikov made the rock candy during qualification climb: he got over the route limitation.

All photos (number: 2)

Melungtse Expedition.

Royal Mount Travel informs:

Jury Koshelenko: "We are heading to the sacred valley Lapchi. We're going on foot and yaks are carrying food and our rucksacks".

Jury Koshelenko called from the Tibetan settlement Tingri. According to Jury, the organizational stage of their expedition appeared rather difficult.

Tomorrow the command will get over Fulashan pass, and we will communicate only by satellite phone then.
It will be a day full of efforts: negotiations with yak's drovers that are complicated the fact that the group guides badly jargonize Tibetan.

We are in Nialam. The spring seems be late here, all the slopes are snow-covered.
Our expedition officer Mr. Sonam does not know English, along with the guide - interpreter Pasang that was specially put to him. Probably, we should agree on a sign language with yak's drovers by ourselves. Jury, Nikolay, Carlos.

European Youth Climbing Days 2005 4th edition Rock Junior in Arco

The European Youth Climbing Days 2005 and the fourth edition of the Rock Junior return to Arco (Trentino, Italy) from 18-19 June.
Organized by the Rock Master Association and approved by the FASI (Italian Sports Climbing Federation), this international event is dedicated to the young generation of climbers aged between 5 and 14 who, together with their families, wish to discover the climbing game in complete safety. The festival will once again be held at the Climbing Stadium in Arco, the very same structure used every year for the Rock Master, the "oldest" and most important climbing competition in the world.

The two day event is open to all, newcomers and experts alike, and is comprised of exciting games (Play and climb) to discover climbing and instructional courses (Climbing Campus) to explore and learn about the world of the rocks and the surrounding nature. Furthermore, children and their parents will be able to take part in the playful Kid's Rock and Family Rock competitions, while the best young European athletes will compete in the sports climbing Under 14 Cup.

Maximum safety is guaranteed by the Mountain Guides, the Mountain Rescue services (SAT and Guardia di Finanza), the Moena Police Alpine Training Force (Centro Addestramento Alpino della Polizia di Stato di Moena). Registration is now possible online on or via the Rock Master Association.

C.P. 60 38062 ARCO TN, ITALY
TEL 0464 516830
FAX 0464 517691


All photos (number: 3)

News from Alpindustria Andventure Team and 7 Summits Club Everest Expedition. Tibet side. Spring 2005

Abramov Alexander (expedition leader) reports from Everest BC (5100m), Tibet.

April 19
Today the whole team went up, part of the team is spending night in IBC, and another part have already arrived in ABC: Nikolay Cherny, Alexander Iakovenko, Ivan Dusharin, Yuri Taidakov, Igor Pokhvalin and those who arrived earlier. Practically the whole non-russian part of the expedition is in IBC.

Dmitry Moskalev got ill - he has a fever 38C. Most probably he will go down for a couple of days.

There are 2 people left in BC now - Andrey Selivanov and Alexander Abramov. Abramov is trying to get quickly acclimatized and preparing to go up - hopefully tomorrow or the day after tomorrow. The guys will spend 3 nights at 6300m, after this part of the group goes to the North Col, and part goes down.

It started snowing today and got colder. I talked with all the groups on the radio. Everyone is feeling good.

Today, on 25 February Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) yearly award will be presented in Grenoble, France.

All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.

In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody!
Now it's 5 am on local time. We had to cease efforts to ascend Fitz Roy because of an objective danger of the route: a huge ice-fall hangs over the couloir and it's constantly under ice bombardment. We decided to change our plans and to climb Saint Exupery peak (2558m). We are going to start, summit and descend this day. The weather forecast is good for the first half of the day, but for the second is bad. We will try to work faster. Wish us good luck.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody.
Yesterday we descended in Chalten and in the very nick of time - got right into a global climbing party. The party was terrific and we had a great time. As always, Russian songs headed the bill. Alexander's singing already became a legend in Chalten. People recognize him in the street and almost nearly ask for an autograph.

Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in U on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.

After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.

Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.

For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.

Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.

Wish us of good luck.
Leonid, Alexander, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi! Having climbed the Mountain for two days we had to descend yesterday. We were too close to summit but got into a violent icefall right under the summit mushroom. Thank Heaven we are safe and sound but it was too dangerous there and decided to stop climbing and descend. Now we have a rest. We'll inform you about our further plans.
That's all on for today. Take care.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi everybody!
Yesterday we descended to El Chalten. Three days ago we hired horses and moved our base camp (150 kg!) in Camp-Bridwell. Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre is a very cosy camping area embowered in trees. A stunning view at Cerro Torre massif opens from there. There are a lot of aspiring Cerro Torre climbers and trekkers living there now. Weather was wonderful. However toward evening surprisingly beautiful clouds of fantastic colors and shapes reminding UFOs appeared in the sky. It's the typical sign of an impending storm.

At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.

Dean PotterA good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.

Tomas HuberTowards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.

Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.

Austrians & SashaThe ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".

As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.

Cerro Torre at dawnNow we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.

Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.

Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.

We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Alexander, Leonid, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody. Today we finally climbed up to Norwegian camp site. It took us rather much time.
People say that there is a bad weather forecast for the day after tomorrow and we do not know really what to do. We need two days to try for the summit.

Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Our greetings to everybody! Yesterday we reached Base Camp and homed in it. We found a lot of people there. Thomas Huber told us about his brother Alex Huber that had to left home because had wounded his eye (at least the story runs that). Weather has been standing magnificent for three days, and it hurts us that we arrived so late. We are afraid, that good weather will not hold for some days more and we will not have time to ascend. Tomorrow we are going to climb up to Norwegian camp site and , the day after tomorrow we plan to get the Col and if the weather is good we will make a summit push the next day.

That is all there is to it for today.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
We flied almost lost-free. Only two backpacks with our belongings, sleeping bags, etc. and a tent were lost en route. But as people say money makes the mare go and we are going to buy needed gear in El Calafate where we will take off tomorrow.

And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.

We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

Things are shaking down rapidly. They found Olga's backpack and delivered it. In an hour our plane departs to El Calafate. Our greetings to everybody.

Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.

As expected we bought all needed things in El Calafate. You can't pick and choose here because practically all the things sold there are made by one local company...

There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.

Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.

Alxander, Leonid, Olga.


 Ines PapertHarald Berger

Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Ice Boulder Champions

In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.

Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit:


The team successfully summited on January 29!
On January 29 the guys woke up early in the morning (4 a.m.) and started their summit bid. After they climbed the summit bastion and narrow rocky ridge, all the team reached the Kodar's summit at 9.00. Temperature was negative 43, but weather was breathless. That day all of them safe and sound descended to the base camp toward evening.

Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.

All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.

We congratulate and wait for the winners!

We have already climbed a half of the route. We abide by the schedule. On January 24 we made 3 pitches, it's a record for the present time. Yesterday we made only one pitch. Today two-man team of Dmitrienko and Tsyganov is next in turn to fix the rope on the route. In total, since 19 of January we made 13 pitches - it's approximately a half of the route. Yesterday the team in its full complement took off and now is making themselves at home in a tent settled in a small rocky niche that was found in the area of 12-th pitch.

We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.

Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.

We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.

Keep in touch with us!

For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. In total 9 pitches are climbed. Firm granite, cold, ice-covered rocks. Today Prokof'ev and Belyanin are working. They have to find a convenient site for the first hanging camp. Temperature is negative 30.

New world champions in ice-climbing. January, 21-22, The 2nd World Championships for Difficulty- and Speed Ice Climbing and the 1st Swiss Ice Climbing Masters in Difficulty and Speed, Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.


Difficulty. Men

1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
2 ANTHAMATTEN Simon (Switzerland)
3 LEICHTFRIED Albert (Austria)

4 BENDLER Markus (Austria)
5 ANTHAMATTEN Samuel (Switzerland)
6 WANDELER Simon (Switzerland)
7 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
8 ODERMATT Urs (Switzerland)

Difficulty. Women

1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
2 PAPERT Ines (Germany)
3 MAUREAU Stephanie (France)

4 BUCHMANN Kirsten (Germany)
5 TORRETTA Anna (Italy)
6 EYER Alexandra (Switzerland)
7 FILIPPOVA Maryam (Russia)
8 SHABALINA Maria (Russia)

Speed. Men

1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
2 FAYZULLIN Igor (Russia)
3 CHVED Nikolai (Russia)

4 HOFER Lars (Switzerland)

Speed. Women

1 KOULIKOVA Natalia Russia
2 OLEINIKOVA Joulia Russia
3 TORRETTA Anna Italy

Photo: Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,

On Saturday January, 22, Sergey Borisov was killed in an automobile accident in Ekaterinburg. I do not know, what I can add any more. Suddenly I realized that I have nothing to say if it happens to my friends... because it is not right..

Sergey Borisov

Master of Sport of International Grade
For a long time he was the captain of Sport Club of Army of Ural military region.
He became four times champion of USSR, twice champion of Russia, numerous prize-winner of different national championships.

The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.

1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6).

1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".

1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".

2002 - Everest via Northern col.

2004 - Jannu North Face, summiter


Everything is turning out well. We dug a cave and sorted out the problem of fire wood. Three two-man teams (Prokofiev-Belyaev, Dmitrienko-Tsyganov, Tsygankov - Cherezov) worked alternating on the route for 3 days and made 7 pitches. It became warmer a little, -20, snowfalls. The Wall is ice- and snow-covered.

It's snowing, temperature is -20. 5 pitches are made.

Kodar-2005. Nikolay Zakharov called: We continue to make our base camp more comfortable. There is a lot of snow. We clear away the beaten track to the wall. It's -35. Our greetings to everybody!

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Till the end this expedition was very hard
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than - 40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue. We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the jeeps to Kathmandu.

The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things.. In the evening he didnt come back to BC and we was very worry. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night.

The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have.). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long..

The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!

Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.

P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence first winter Summit as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray


Svetlana Boldykova(24.01.2005)
From January 15-23, 2005 the 2005 Snowboard World Championships took place in Whistler, Canada.
On January 18 Russians sportsmen showed good results: at Women's Parallel Giant Slalom (PGS - Olympic discipline) Svetlana Boldykova became the second, Ekaterina Tudigescheva - the forth and at Men's Parallel Giant Slalom Denis Salagaev was the ninth.

On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.

And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.



Ines Papert breaks record in Ouary Ice Park, USA
Igor Ivashura, CYKHAX ENT, Munich, informs:
This girl just went and did that left behind all the monsters of ice-climbing and showed the best result among men and women on the tenth annual "Ouary Ice Festival" (USA)!!!

Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.

The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.

Ines's result is really unique.

The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"

Total report

1 22:47 WILL GADD
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
13 16:42 ADAM STACK
5 13:53 SUE NOTT

Photo -

Georgian Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Film Festival N I A M O R I
In January-March 2005, in Georgia (former Soviet Union) Tbilisi will host the second annual Mountain Film Festival Niamori


18.01.05 Zakharov called from base camp:
16.01 The bad weather was.
17.01 We finally got to the area of ascent. The gorge is so narrow that the helicopter could not find any convenient site to land and we were dropped in deep snow from a hovering helicopter.

The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.

Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.

Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!

14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to take all our equipment and transport to the village that is 25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring for the sun....



"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.

One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15. We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing we summited.

This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...

Simone and Piotr reached the col and put up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers!...

Simone and Piotr

Petites Jorasses. First free climbing "Omega" route Britons Nick Bullock and Stuart MacAleese became the third team climbed historical Patrick "Gab" Gabarrou's and Ferran Latorre's route "Omega" on Petites Jorasses (Mt. Blanc), (700m, VI/5+,A3).

It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.


Ice-climbing. Jenny Lavarda and Hannes Pfeifhofer are the champions of Italy
The second stage of the Italian Ice-climbing championship "ITALIAN ALPINE CUP" finished at the last weekend in Val Passiria .
At men having got over all the grandees and merited runners as Bubu Mauro Bole and Herbert Klammer Hannes Pfeifhofer, a 18-year climber, unexpectedly won the gold.
Jenny Lavarda, having switched off from rock-climbing on ice in this winter season, took part at such events for the first time and won by a head. Silvia Cian is the second and Monica Gemelli- the third.



GRANDES JORASSES. Linceul (4208m). Winter solo
Ferran Martnez is the Spanish climber soloed the "great classics" of GRANDES JORASSES: Linceul. Some days later his climb was repeated by other Spanish climber Eloi Callado.



The fifth summit under the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter" has been climbed
Sergey Shchepachkov informs:

On January, 9, 2005 a team of climbers (Ivan Artemov, Ivan Alentsev, Victor Afanasyev, Andrey Bukin, and Oleg Bibin) summited Mt. Kazbek (5033m) within the framework of the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter".
Weather during the ascent held ideal. I got cold and had to stop climbing and left the team during the summit push. Proshchenko Maxim and Grishnjachy Leonid had to abandon the team too. The route line went from Northern Ossetia side, through Genaldonskoe gorge via Pastukhova route.

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.



Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
All the night the wind shook the tents and it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud, showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col...

Simone and Piotr

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC (5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going up.

The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...

Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.


Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!. The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult to be...

We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.

Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek that still were in C1.

Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....

Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till 7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek "sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe make already a first summit attempt....

Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?

Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise well and also using that point as the starting point for the summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40 degree and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope till C1.

Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend

The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.

Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550 m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.

Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.

The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold, today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600 m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind... but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get the first technical problem.

Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...

Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.

Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...

We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...

After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible. So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base camp (log way....)

Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...

Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.

On the way to C1(31.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac, below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp I. The altitude is about 6550.

Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.

Ciao, Simone

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32 yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.

Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.

We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!

base camp

Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry 40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA. Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather is still good even the temperature went down in compare of one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team

I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead, I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages. We're sentries up here

We arrived in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.

A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.

The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible
Bye, Simone

Translation by Jonathan Etes

German TOP-climbers Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz did not sustained the most severe gale-force wind and bailed their first ascent Murallon, North face, (Patagonia).

Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma.
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.

Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.

In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra stupid discussion.

Simone, Darek, Piotr

On 12 December Jean-Christophe Lafaille returned to the base camp after his challenge summit (on December 11) Shishapangma.

It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.

The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France,




International calendar for ice-climbing competitions, 2005 season





CHABOT Alexandre
 EITER Angela

World Cup 2004 Top-10

1. MRAZEK Tomas CZE 560.00
2. CHABOT Alexandre FRA 516.00
3. CRESPI Flavio ITA 333.00
4. PETRENKO Maxim UKR 322.00

5. USOBIAGA Patxi ESP 317.00
6. POUVREAU Grome FRA 291.00
7. MILLET Sylvain FRA 268.00
8. FUSELIER Mickael FRA 249.00
9. VERHOEVEN Jorg NED 248.00
10. PUIGBLANQUE Ramn Julin ESP 240.00

1. EITER Angela AUT 535.00
2. SARKANY Muriel BEL 525.00
3. EYER Alexandra SUI 364.00

4. GROS Natalija SLO 364.00
5. CIAVALDINI Caroline FRA 356.00
6. SCHPF Bettina AUT 345.00
7. LAVARDA Jenny ITA 299.00
8. VIDMAR Maja SLO 287.00
9. CUFAR Martina SLO 286.00
10. SHALAHINA Olha UKR 245.00

World Cup. Latest Stage. Kranj, SLO

1. Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
2. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov (RUS)
3. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
2. Natalija Gros (SLO)
3-4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
3-4. Sandrine Levet (FRA)

Simone Moro. Shisha Winter
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.

After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp.

Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.

Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch

About expedition

UIAA Worldcup Difficulty Event Brno (CZE) 2004. Results.
The Winners - Flavio CRESPI, Italy, and Alexandra EYER, Switzerland. At men Tomas MRAZEK, CZE, and Alexandre CHABOT, France, are the second and the third accordingly. And at women the Russian Olga SHALAGINA (!!!) is the second and Maja VIDMAR, Slovenia is the third.

See all the results


Fred Rouhling opens his new line Mandallaz drive, 9
Fred Rouhling has just declared about his successful redpoint of the new project in d'Allonzier la Caille - Mandallaz drive, 9.
In 1993 only lazy did not mock Fred when he declared the first French 9, Hugh line. However in 2001, 8 (!) years later, the category was confirmed by Italian climber Alessandro Lamberti.
1995 "Practically everyone in this world had to doubt of his judiciousness" - It is about Fred Rouhling and his challenging Akira, 9b. Do you really think the world delightfully looked into his eyes?
1997 l'Autre Cote du Ciel (The other side of the sky), the second 9, sent by Fred. Then everything went without any autographs....
3d "9a" of Fred was Fred Nicole's "bain de sang"
2004 Mandallaz drive, 9. Who would doubt... Go, Fred! :)


Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton
On October 5, the two climbed six new pitches, totaling about 1,000 feet of thin ice and mixed climbing. The new route, which is unnamed, started just left of the classic North Face route and ended at the Hossack-McGowan Couloir, which they followed to the East Ridge and eventually reached the summit.
The crux was found on the second pitch, where unprotectable ice forced Koch into a soaking-wet, womb-like feature behind the ice until he could bust through and pull a roof to easier ground. He spent the next belay wringing out his clothes and pouring water out of his boots. A sudden storm then dumped buckets of graupel, which cascaded down the face in one of the most spectacular sights I have witnessed in the mountains, Koch said. When the storm stopped, they continued upward through four more good pitches of ice, including a winding WI 5 pitch that Koch called the nicest ice pitch he has ever done on a mountain route.

Rating of rock-climbers - the world leaders. Bouldering. Speed. Difficulty
In bouldering and speed the sportmen have been already put in their places, "all sweets" are given away, in difficulty there are two events more ahead...

UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004


1. Sandrine Levet, France
2. Olga Bibik, Russia
3. Julia Abramchuk, Russia

1. Daniel Dulac, France
2. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
3. Jerome Meyer, France


1. Tatyana Ruyga, Russia
2. Anna Saulevich, Russia

1. Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
2. Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky, Russia
3. Alexander Peshehonov, Russia

Difficulty. The current rating

1. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
2. Angela Eiter, Austria
3. Bettina Schopf, Austria

1. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
2. Alexandre Chabot, France
3. Gerome Pouvreau, France

All results

Rock Climbing. World Cup in Valence, France. Difficulty.
The winners

1. CHABOT Alexandre FRA
2. Bindhammer Christian Germany
1. Muriel Sarkany Belgium
2. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
2. CUFAR Martina SLO
4. Jenny Lavarda ITA
5. Angela Eiter AUT

The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.

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