In June - July, 2004 "Russian Extreme
Project" team consisting of 4 climbers, a camera-man, a photographer and a doctor,
sets to climb a new "Russian" route on legendary Mt. Amin Brakk (5850m), West
face, and make B.A.S.E. jump, executed by Valery Rozov, from the summit.
The Mountain is situated in inaccessible Pakistan Mountains
that present real climbing Mecca. It is one of the most complex and extended
walls of our planet. It is harder then Trango Tower. Amin Brakk was first attempted
in May 1996 by the Basque climbers and got attraction of rock climber back in
1997. The very experienced Spanish big wall climber, Jon Lazkano, together with
Adolfo Madinabeitia and Jose Carlos Tamayo made a capsule style attempt on the
1,200m granite face of unclimbed Amin Brakk. After 15 days on the wall the trio
were forced to give up around 300m below the top, worn down by bad weather,
cold temperatures that caused minor frosting, and lack of food. They estimated
another three to four days of good climbable weather would be needed in order
to reach the summit.
Spanish made several attempts until 1999 Pep Masip, Miguel
Puigdomenech and Silvia Vidal climbed this virgin Tower and named their route
as Sol Solet (VII 6C+, A5). The ascent took 34 days. The route has a technically
complex part of 1650m in length and 22 pitch A5 and 6c+ (vertical!) and is considered
as the most technically complex wall in the world for the present moment. Extent
of sites À5-graded (the greatest possible category of complexity) makes 150
meters (!) at the altitude about 6000 m. Lack of snow on this very abrupt wall
causes additional complexities, and the climbers have to haul up water.
The Russians have never tried to climb this formidable
mountain. Moreover nobody has jumped from its top and realised similar projects!
The team is going to lead and develop the new extreme sports of "B.A.S.E.-climbing".
You will be able to follow the expedition reading on-line reportings (news,
photos).
Valery
Rozov . B.A.S.E. Interview for Mountain.RU
