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Erik Lopez (16) does two 9a's

Eric Lopez (16) has done two 9a's on the same day, Ali-Hulk and Los Borrachos del Mascun in Rodellar, Spain. It seems to be a new world record. Last year Erik won the Youth World Champion and this year the 16-year-old was #12 in the last WC.


New 8c+ by Cristophe Zehani

Cristophe Zehani has put up a new 8c+, Kalachnikov in Fetide Beach. Cristophe is #7 in the world ranking has registered 875 routes in the 8a database.


8b+ on-sight by Patxi Usobiaga

Patxi Usobiaga prepared for the Camonix WC by onsighting his 18th 8b+, I am sorry mickey in Yenne, France. Patxi won the overall W last year and he is in the lead in the 8a ranking.


Sergey Bogomolov 2: the first group started working on the route and reached up to 5400 meters. The second group set off tomorrow

10.07.07 At last we came to the foot of the mountain and touched it. The first group started working on the route and reached up to 5400 meters. The ideal weather has been holding for two days. The second group has a rest today before tomorrow's start.

09.07.07 Both groups made cargo-climbs. The first one moved ABC in 2 hours closer to the route, having made three cargo's carries. The second group lifted gear to the middle camp once again and descended to BC.

08.07.07 Today the 1st group (Zhumaev -Pivtsov- Sofrygin- Skopin) set off to ABC with the prospect of starting the route. The 2nd group (Bogomolov -Ikhmetov -Puchinin -Brodsky) made a cargo-climb up to the middle camp (4600) and returned to BC and will do the same tomorrow.

Source: Sergey Bogomolov

European Youth Series ended in Leipzig, Germany .

European Youth Series ended in Leipzig, Germany .

A good news: Arman Ter-Minasyan from Moscow compiting in one group with Czech wonder-child Adam Ondra, successively gained his second "children's" victory, won the the third place.

Winners and prize-winners

Male youth A

1. Schubert Jakob AUT
2. Stranik Martin CZE
3. Tauporn Thomas GER

Male youth B

1. Ondra Adam CZE
2. Hojer Jan GER
3. Ter-Minasyan Arman RUS

Male juniors

1. Midtboe Magnus NOR
2. Neumarker Felix GER
3. Danker Stefan GER

Female juniors

1. Schmid Christina SUI
2. Brumagne Mathilde BEL
3. Levstek Patricija SLO

Female youth A

1. Wurm Juliane GER
2. Dull Ines GER
3. Nedyalkova Spasina BUL

Female youth B

1. Ernst Johanna AUT
2. Choong Katherine SUI
3. Ladurner Alexandra ITA

All results

New 9a in Kronthal

Julius Westfal has put up a new 9a in Kronthal, close to Strasbourg. The route was eqipped by Yann Corby. No name of the 9a yet.


Magnus Midtbo (18) continues to deliver

Magnus Midtbo, who has won the European Youth Cup the last two weekends and who did an 8c+ in between has once again delivered in Gorges du Loup. The day after his last victory he did Qoussai les maux de la fin, 8c second go and onsighted Dies irae, 8a+ in Gorges du Loup , France. The tallented norwegian is #10 in the world ranking.


Haina Brakk Expedition

Greetings to all our friends, Karakoram does not indulge us with good weather. Today we managed to see the Mashrebrum summit at last - after a three-day period.

For these days we did not find the way under the Southern face among a labyrinth of seracs. So, we determinated the route line via the left part of Southeast face. It will lay to the left of Women and Chalk opened by Mauro " Bubu" Bole.

The team has finished cargo's carry under the wall. Today weather was bad, only in the evening the sun appeared for a little and we climbed some boulders in BC. A team of Japanese guys kept us company. They hope to repeat the Slovene route on East Haina Brakk.

If weather allows, we will take off a day after tomorrow.

The things are going under the plan. Yesterday we searched for the approach under the wall through the glacier. It was not an easy task to do that among a heap of seracs and moraines. We managed to find the way and it took us four hours to run light up to the wall. On closer examination the wall makes the grandiose impression - 1000 meters of granite towers above you. Only at the moment of this show I realized all the gravity of our ascent.

We decided a line of the route on a first approximation. If we find the way among a huge icefall under the South face, still unclimbed, we will try it. But today we carry our cargo again.

Denis Savel'ev, the leader of the expedition.

All photos (number: 1)

"Krasnoyarsk" Karakorum Expedition 2007

09.07.07. Hello!
Prompt weather changes in Karakorum force us to use our wits sometimes. All the last night it was raining in a strong wind. During the evening communication the guys told that they decided only to fix the rope the next day and spend the night on the former place. But, early in the morning a short weather window opened and the both teams took off and climbed further. At 9.00 am they reported that had to be engage in canyoneering hauling the portaledge and all the gear in a chimney under streams of water. In the afternoon they got up to a ledge at the 12-th pitch and fixed the portaledge there. As to work on the route was just not on due to sleeting and a strong wind the guys nipped into the portaledge to have forced rest.

At that time the team led by Oleg Khvostenko also having taken off the portaledges and all the ropes moved upwards. They have already left on a steep "rusty crack" where it's possible to climb during bad weather. By the evening they set a bivy at the 25-th pitch.

At about 4.00 pm the tender sun was shining in the sky and the leaders started to move faster. The duo Evgeny Belyaev and Alexey Komissarov climbed three pitches more and descended to the portaledge for spending the night.

Good luck,

Good evening!
Today the captain led in Khvostenko's team. In total five pitches is climbed for today but the portaledges we lifted only on two ones. In the afternoon weather sharply worsened and the guys had urgently to fit the bivy on the wall for spending the night. The convenient place (with the main thing - water!) was found. A steep 500-meter bastion without water stars from right there, therefore, we plan only to work on the route the next day and spend the night in the same place. For two days 19 pitches are done.

In Mikhalitsin's team Evgeny Belyaev and Igor Loginov led by turn and climbed 10 pitches of a new route, the portaledge is fixed at the seventh one. Tomorrow the team plan to move up to the tenth pitch and to work further. The speed is good, they climb well today Igor freed a serious 80-meter steep wet chimney.

Now it is raining again and windy, but the guys are already in portaledges in heat and had supper. On evening radio communication they send worm words to their native and to friends.

Yesterday after intensive climbing during 15 hours Khvostenko's team climbed up to the site with water on the wall: 14 pitches for this time, and fixed the portaledges at the fifteenth one for spending the night.

Today, on July, 7, at dawn the four-man team in structure: A.Mikhalitsin , E.Belyaev, I.Loginov, A.Komissarov, started climbing the new route on Great Trango Northwest face.
We wish good luck all of you,

Hello, friends!
Yesterday rest day in base camp under the wall of GREAT TRANGO was successful. The guys are in good health and mind. But weather appears unpredictable here. Yesterday since the morning there was not any cloud in the sky but by the evening it started raining here and snowing - above. By 5.00 am the deposits temporarily stopped and the team in structure: O.Khvostenko, V.Arkhipov, A.Litvinov, J.Glazyrin, S.Cherezov, A.Yanushevich, set off to climb the Northwest face. The second team will start tomorrow.

Now we are not along under the mountain: the Spaniards came yesterday with the aim to climb NAMELESS TOWER via a new route. All the evening long we communicated with them in our wardroom and showed them slides about Ergaki mountain range climbs and films about special bouldering in Stolby* - slabby face climbing (*Slab- the Krasnoyarians call it "katushka". This special rocky relief represents monolithic plates without edges and cracks typical for Krasnoyarsk Stolby rocky pillars) The Spaniards were strongly surprised.

Today all the expedition members gathered in base camp in the evening.

The preparatory stage is completed: two acclimatization climbs are accomplished (with spending the night at 4600, 5350 meters) the gear is carried under the wall two routes of ascents on GREAT TRANGO, Northwest face by two teams are determined. One of them is a new route and the second - repetition of the Ukrainian route 2003. Tomorrow, on July, 6, - a day of rest and preparation and if weather allows the both teams will start.

Seven people stay in BC: expedition's head Nikolay Zakharov, doctor Kukharev, recovering Denis Prokof'ev, the liason officer Ali, the cook Nabi and two his assistants Rujjalla and Mahmad.

Nikolay Zakharov

All photos (number: 7)

Sergey Bogomolov 2: Well, we have reached BC at last. 05.07.07
It's the good and glad news that Sochi becomes the capital of 2014 Winter Olympic Games. A day in BC. Regrouping, weighing of cargo and negotiations. The main thing is the people. And the people have their own opinion that can vary day by day. And this time our drovers sent their demands up to the space. But that does not arrange us. And it seems that tomorrow we will make lifting the cargo by ourselves. 4.07.07
Well we have reached BC settled at 3900 m at last. The grass, creek and even bushes there are of about my growth. Besides, there are a lot of biowaste left by camels and herd of bulls that it is possible to make something useful from it. But! The summit is as distant as the moon. But we were fortunate enough to have an unforeseen agreement with our porters.

For the expedition period they will move about the BC at the altitude of advanced base camp on a moraine.

Our task is to plan making depot.

Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007: The team finally has reached Base camp

Greetings to all of you!

For the 10-th day at last we have reached Base camp! Seven days on "deer" and three on foot. There are no bounds to our happiness :-)

There are the green glade, creek, small lake here it's madly beautiful surrounding. The mountain is challenge. The walls around BC give open space to our imagination.

The Trango Group, towering above Uli Biaho glacier, makes indelible impression. However, the opinion of the team appeared unanimous - Haina Brakk is much beautiful :-) Except for us in Base camp there are two more groups - Japanese and Span teams.

Some words about trekking. The way from Askole passes through campings Jolha and Paiju (in Russian "salt"). The narrow tracks breaking in the rough rivers, a lot of sand, yellow licked walls, hanging taluses, poor vegetation (mainly prickly) and animals represented by lots of lizards - the fine place for travel. To tell the truth, it's better to trek there in the morning. In the afternoon the sun is merciless there.

Paiju is a traditional place of gathering of porters. They stand in a circle and sing their national songs. We listened to them with pleasure. And the next day hardly stayed there one day more.

Denis Savel'ev tells about the final day of trekking and team's plans for the nearest days: Yesterday the trekking from Paiju to BC was on the verge of failure. All the last night and morning long it was raining. The porters went on strike refusing to go further on the glacier in the rain. I and ours sirdar had a great tug to persuade them. And everything had the right way and finally by the evening we were on the place.

The camp altitude is 4300 meters according the satellite. Yesterday the guys felt shivery a little :) but today we seem to be acclimatized.

Our plans for the nearest days: setting of base camp, reconnaissance of approaches under the wall and route line.

Our generator started to work and now we have electricity".

Russia's Sochi wins 2014 Winter Olympic Games

Being ahead of Salzburg (Austria ) and Pyeongchang (South Korea) Russia's Sochi wins 2014 Winter Olympic Games bid at 119th International Olympic Committee (IOC) session taken place in Guatemala on July 4.

Charlotte Durif
Photo: Anna Piunova
The second 8 from Charlotte Durif

Within several weeks 18-year old Charlotte Durif does her second 8, " Tete de Gondole " (Boffy area, nearby to Milleau).

Charlotte was engaged in rock-climbing since she was six, and started to take part in competitions at the age of eight. In 2004 she won the World Youth Championship, and things are up and running :-) Charlotte is the female ranking leader and #9 among the men according


Sergey Bogomolov 2: Climbed up to 4350m

29.06.07 Moving to Yilik (3500m) appears long not on distance, but on time due to frontier posts and hard road through two passes (3200m and 4300m) and a dirt road at the end.
We had to be retained against rocks in places and crossed the trace of a mudflow where our cargo vehicle got stuck.
We arrived there only at midnight and got to bed at 2.00 after setting a comp.

30.06.07 I feel weak a little after yesterday's road. By the way, this road up to our divarication and farther, in 1200 km to Tibet, was constructed by Chinese army for 13 months. And it is in fine asphalted condition, except for the passes, where there is an excellent graded area. Since the early morning we were packing, and the camel caravan came for loading. The journalists and technical service went back, leaving 4 jeeps in Kargilik for our way back. Short trekking under unseasonable heat - 3 hours up to 3700meters.

01.07.07 Well, at last, we got into a normal working period. Climbed up to 4350m for 8 hours. The gorge's entry reminds Hollywood films about the Wild West at the first sight.
Prairies, canyon, Indians. The first ford. Further the gorge extends, the slopes became flat. Like in Pamir.
And the Kirghiz-shepherds graze sheep and the sheep are excellent. Two more fords we crossed on camels. They are amazing animals.
80 kg of load plus a rider, 160 kg in total to carry! The drover goes on foot and keeps the first camel on a leash, the second is roped with the first hooked for a stick in its nostrils. And in such a manner from two to five camels in a mini-caravan.

In the wake of David Lama. Zhenya Kazbekova (10), 7b!

We have just come back from Europe after climbing in Arko and Dolomite.
In Dolomite we diverted ourselves by playing with marmots, very interesting and funny furry animals, Zhenya fed them all our reserve of food.
And she managed to send forth go Beach oys 7b in Arko, the route climbed by David Lama at the same age of 10.

All photos (number: 13)

Source: Natalia Perlova, Serik Kazbekov, Dnepropetrovsk

Bereziartu and Otegui: the first free ascent of Super Weissmuller

8a/8a + on the SW Face of Petit Pic De Ansabere (France) Sweet couple Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegui made the first free ascent of Super Weissmuller 8a/8a + on the SW Face of Petit Pic De Ansabere (France.)

The eight pitch route had been first climbed by the Spaniards Mikel Zabalza and Unai Mendia three years ago with one point of aid.

Bereziartu and Otegui attempted to on-sight the line but failed on the crux: the pitch, which they sent second go and freed at 8a/8a +. Although the route has some small bolts and pegs almost all pitches need to be equipped with trad gear, with fairly long run-outs at times: even such strong climbers do not want to fall there.

The limestone Petit Pic De Ansabere is located in the Pyrenees close to the French - Spanish border. According to Bereziartu it is well worth a visit: the area is wild and alpine, and the wall is reached after a circa 2 hour walk in the beautiful Cirque of Lescun.

Super Weissmuller - Petit Pic De Ansabere (France) First ascent: Mikel Zabalza and Unai Mendia 2004
F.f.a.: Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegui 06/2007
Grade: 6b +, 6c, 7b +, 8a / +, 7b, 6c +, 6c, V +
Length: 300m
Protection: Take full set of trad gear.
Notes: The rock is friable at times, with fairly long run-outs


Kazakhstan 2 Expedition

The team arrived to Kargilik. The things are going according to the plan. In Kashgar we bought some food before departure and went on further. On the road the vehicles became to look like the real ships of the desert after getting into a dust-storm.

The team is in Kashgar

Our greetings!
We left Naryn today at 6.00 a.m. and and successfully passing all the cordons reached Kashgar by 7.00 p.m.

Team's structure:

Il'insky Edvard, the expedition head, coach Zhumaev Maksut, the captain.


Pivtsov Vasily,
Bogomolov Sergey,
Brodsky Sergey,
Puchinin Andrey,
Sofrygin Alexander,
Skopin Aggey,
Ismetov Malik.

Page of the expedition
Date update: 3.10.2007
K2 West Face Direct Russian National expedition: Weather began to change for the better. Shabalin's group is settling in 3 and going to continue work on the route. The rocks of the central part of the bastion are ahead.

25.06.07 Group led by Totmyanin has changed Bolotov's group and continued fixing the rope above 2: a duo Totmyanin-Shamalo made three pitches more and got a snow ledge where it was possible to set to shape a platform under a tent Solo +, Volodin and Komarov made a cargo climb from 2. The three climbers stayed for the night at 3 Komarov descended to 2. The group led by Gleb Sokolov hauled the gear from ABC to 1.
26.06.07 A two-man team Volodin-Shamalo made three pitches above 3, and Totmyanin and Komarov lifted the gear from 2 to 3. The three climbers spent the night at 3
Komarov descended to 2 where the advanced two climbers of the next group (Sokolov, Gorelik) had settled down.
27.06.07 Totmyanin's group climbed one more pitch hauling the gear to the top point of fixed ropes and descended to ABC. The duo Sokolov-Gorelik lifted the load from 2 to 3 and got the gear to the top point of fixed ropes for depot and stayed for the night at 3. The duo Vinogradsky-Ivanov lifted the gear from 1 to 2.
28.06.07 The duo Sokolov-Gorelik made one pitch more and descended to 2, the duo Vinogradsky-Ivanov lifted a cargo from 2 to 3 and stayed for the night in 3. Totmyanin's group descended to BC for rest Shabalin's set off from BC to 1. By the evening the weather deteriorated. It was raining in BC, and in ABC and above began snowing and a strong wind.
29.06.07 Sokolov's group descended to ABC, Shabalin's group, despite of bad weather, set off to 2.
30.06.07 Weather began to change for the better: snowfall stopped, overcast scattered. Shabalin's group ascended to 3, and expanded the site for a more capacious tent up to 6 people.
The duo Vinogradsky-Ivanov together with the senior coach and the doctor descended to BC, and the duo Sokolov-Gorelik remained in ABC for secure of the advanced group. Tomorrow, if weather hold, Shabalin's group will continue working on the route, and Bolotov's group will set off to ABC.
After the first abrupt rocky belt of the bastion psychologically identical to Jannu North Face headwall, not less hard rocks of bastion's central part at 7000 m and higher begin. The skill of good climbing but also "to hold" cold and high altitude is required here. The guys hope to get altitude by free climbing if the weather permits. The wall is tough with many long vertical cracks and ice-filled corners: in a word, it's open space for drytolling. Team's mood is fighting.
Victor Kozlov, Nikolay Totmyanin.

Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007

The team arrived to Askole one day late.
Our hopes to be here in time were flashed with an avalanche of cloudburst flood. It destroyed the road and forced us to spend the night halfway and go on forward in the morning towards to other jeeps cut off from Skardu. By these vehicles we reached the end of our expedition wheel-stage. In Askole our small camp adjoins with Slovenian 2 and Broad peak Expedition.

Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007

Our greetings to everybody! Expedition's life began. We are in Chilas. After 12 hours of driving from Islamabad we have seen the first snow summit - Nanga Parbat. The Diamir Wall arose in our mind towering with its snow-ice terrain.

Tomorrow we come to the fore by a minibus heading to Skardu. And further from there- by jeeps.
The next settlement on our way is Askole.

We are fine and in a brave mood. And if the chaos of traffic in Pakistan made our blood run cold for the first time, by the evening high-speed driving on the wrong side of the road at rather intensive traffic on the Karakoram highway rose a smile on our faces. It seems all the drivers here are identical :-)

One of the problems for the nearest days is not to catch cold and not to poison. The conditioner is continuously working inside a car but there is too hot outside. We are two-minded about local food and keep first aid kit up our sleeve.

News from Sergej Bogomolov

Sergey Bogomolov. Driving Alma-Ata - Naryn (2000m) in jeeps

Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007 starts on June, 24 from Moscow

Object of ascent: Haina Brakk (Shipton Spire) - 5852m.
Top aina Brakk* is located in the Northern provinces of Pakistan, in Karakoram range. From apart the wall seems ideally smooth. Due to what the mountain also received its name.
The main aim is to place the Russian trace on the wall and open a beautiful and logical line.
Today on June, 24 the Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007 starts from Moscow for the capital of Pakistan Islamabad at 15.00.
Team's members:
Denis Savel'ev - the head of the expedition.
In his bag: climbs Bashkara, Ushba, Erydag, Zamin-Karor, Troll Wall.

Andrey Muryshev,
a strongest rock-climber and alpinist. In his bag various climbs in Caucasus Mountains.

Evgeny Korol
team's irreplaceable member, ascents in Caucasus, Tien-Shan.

Sergey Nilov
a strongest sportsman. Ascents: Chatyn in winter, Peak Schurovskogo, Erydag, etc.

Elena Dmitrenko
a correspondent of a climbing magazine.

All photos (number: 1)

Date update: 29.06.2007

On June, 12 French climbers Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff made FA in Alpine style of Pumari Chhish South (7350m), the removed peak of Hispar Muztagh, Pakistan, Karakoram.
They first attempted it four years ago, when after climbing of 2700-meter southern wall for five days Trommsdorff summarized: "It is the most beautiful unclimbed mountain I've ever seen."

On June, 8, having skied the western Yutmaru glacier, the guys started to work on 60-degree snow east slope of Pumari Chhish South face. At last, after three days of climbing on abrupt snow sites the duo reached the headwall, 6700m, where they rested against of 300-meter vertical, ice-covered rocky pillar that they almost free climbed except for a 30-meter site on a hanging two-sided corner that the guys had to aid-climb but in high-spirit. After the headwall, Yannick and Christian stayed for the night, and the next morning they climbed the 300-meter ridge leading up to the virgin summit. They had grand weather during the entire ascent.

Trommsdorff compared the steepness and character of ice surface to the Eiger North face but added that the headwall at the altitude about 7000 meters, in his opinion, is more hard than the Northwest pillar (ED2: M6 + 70 degrees, 1950m) of Chomolari (7326m): Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic climbed it in Alpine style in 2006 and won the Piolet d'Or. (That time Christian Trommsdorff served on the jury).
As to the rocky sites of the headwall Christian noted: "The granite is much more pleasant there than in Chamonix."

16 Piolet dOr-2007

All photos (number: 1)


Czech 2 Expedition. Tomo Cesen's route. Camp 3 is pitched

The Czech team led by Leopold Sulovsky working on K2, Tomo Cesen's route, has established camp 3 at 7030 meters.

All photos (number: 7)


K2 West Face Direct Russian National expedition: TV show "Super-grandfather". Bastion. Bottom part

June, 25, 20-00 Moscow time

It's a real screenplay for TV show "Super-grandfather"! Today we got the news that Gleb Sokolov became a grandfather once again - he has already got a grandson and his GRAND DAUGHTER was born!

Alexey Bolotov, Alexander Korobkov and Sergey Penzov descended to base camp. Alexey: "Well, now we are at home after six days of working. The bottom part of the bastion is very hard. We had to overcome an overhang (it being understood that it's not a cornice but a 3-meter smooth hanging site). Alexander Korobkov led and did it. There are a lot of such difficult pitches here, but instead of North face of Jannu they alternate with less complex ledges. The wall is really difficult. 5-6 pitches from already climbed ones are very abrupt.

One of the friends made in Ukraine broke down and I fell 4 meters. But things came right and without traumas: I am safe and sound.

Today Nikolay Totmyanin made 2,5 pitches and fixed camp 3 (7150 m). It is an absolutely small tent just to take a breath (the camp 2 is so distant to get it quickly). In the morning he will to start to climb further".

Pavel Shabalin:
"We want to open the direct line. The terrain is so hard that we can hardly understand where to climb further: more to the left or to the right. As a whole we must get to the left. In this situation we need route updating from below, from the glacier. We will try to organize route observance."

Two 8b onsight by Becan 25/06

Kleman Becan onsighted Acht be, 8b and Merkl Rinne in Warmbad, Austria,last saturday.
He also flashed Midlife crises, 8b. Kleman is #6 on the world ranking.


8c+ by Adam Ondra (14) 25/06

Adam Ondra has done his 10th 8c+ during 2007, Hattori Hanzo in Frankenjura, Germany. 14-year-old Adam is #3 on the world ranking.


Ramon Julian Puigblanque has onsighted Pequena Estrella

During the last week Ramon Julian Puigblanque has onsighted Pequena Estrella, 8b+ and redpointed three 8c+ and three 8c. Black pearl, 8c+ was a FA in Rodellar. Ramonet is #2 on the world ranking.


Kazakhstan K2 Expedition: Presentation of National Team.

On June 16 the National Team of Kazakhstan was presented near the memorial "Victim in mountains" at the in Tuyuk Su area. And on June 25 the new Kazakhstan K2 Expedition will start.

In solemn atmosphere the president of Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing of the Republic of Kazakhstan Baghlan Zhunusov read the list of team's members to the audience of climbers and alpinists and a big group of state mass-media journalists and television reporters: Brodsky Sergey, Zhumaev Maksut, Ismetov Malik, Pivtsov Vasily, Puchinin Andrey, Sofrygin Alexander and Skopin Aggey. The climbers stayed here dressed in red jackets with Expedition stripes: they had time to come back from training on Tuyuk Su rocks where they took part in the Republican Open Championship on climbing technique.

Third victory for Cyril Despres

After 2004 and 2005 it is again Cyril Despres from France who wins the Red Bull Romaniacs Hard Enduro Rallye in 2007, gaining his third victory in the fourth edition of the rally. German Privateer Gerhard Forster finishes second overall ahead of the New Zealander Chris Birch. Despres won the last special over 190km ahead of Chris Birch and Gerhard Forster.
Only 30 minutes after the start Michel Gau (FRA) broke his right arm in a crash and could not continue the last special.

The first man early away this Thursday morning was Michel Gau. The Frenchman had retaken the overall lead from Cyril Despres yesterday. As it was quite probable that these two riders fought it out, both of them were motivated to give their best on the last and decisive day of the fourth Red Bull Romaniacs Hard Enduro Rally. However, Michel Gau had the bad luck on his side and crashed only 30 minutes after the start he slipped on a piece of wood made him fall off the bike and against a tree. His right arm was broken and he was not able to continue the race. Cyril Despres immediately stopped and stayed with him until the first aid arrived. 20 minutes later he continued the race without knowing how many riders had already passed.
In the mean time 23-year old Chris Birch (NZL) did well, made no mistakes and was the first to finish the last special stage. Crossing the finish line second Cyril Despres got a time credit for staying with Michel Gau and - besides the overall victory is todays winner. Gerhard Forster, Privateer from Germany, completes the stages podium and claims the second overall position.

The hardest day of all four off-road stages, the riders agreed unanimously after they had successfully and literally taken the last steps to the finish high above Sibiu. The see-saw right at the beginning, steep uphills, an almost never-ending and slippery downhill and a merciless last ascent to the days and overall finish just to mention a few of todays specialities the remaining 78 participates had to deal with.

Today, on 25 February Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) yearly award will be presented in Grenoble, France.

All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.

In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody!
Now it's 5 am on local time. We had to cease efforts to ascend Fitz Roy because of an objective danger of the route: a huge ice-fall hangs over the couloir and it's constantly under ice bombardment. We decided to change our plans and to climb Saint Exupery peak (2558m). We are going to start, summit and descend this day. The weather forecast is good for the first half of the day, but for the second is bad. We will try to work faster. Wish us good luck.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody.
Yesterday we descended in Chalten and in the very nick of time - got right into a global climbing party. The party was terrific and we had a great time. As always, Russian songs headed the bill. Alexander's singing already became a legend in Chalten. People recognize him in the street and almost nearly ask for an autograph.

Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in U on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.

After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.

Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.

For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.

Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.

Wish us of good luck.
Leonid, Alexander, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi! Having climbed the Mountain for two days we had to descend yesterday. We were too close to summit but got into a violent icefall right under the summit mushroom. Thank Heaven we are safe and sound but it was too dangerous there and decided to stop climbing and descend. Now we have a rest. We'll inform you about our further plans.
That's all on for today. Take care.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi everybody!
Yesterday we descended to El Chalten. Three days ago we hired horses and moved our base camp (150 kg!) in Camp-Bridwell. Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre is a very cosy camping area embowered in trees. A stunning view at Cerro Torre massif opens from there. There are a lot of aspiring Cerro Torre climbers and trekkers living there now. Weather was wonderful. However toward evening surprisingly beautiful clouds of fantastic colors and shapes reminding UFOs appeared in the sky. It's the typical sign of an impending storm.

At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.

Dean PotterA good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.

Tomas HuberTowards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.

Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.

Austrians & SashaThe ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".

As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.

Cerro Torre at dawnNow we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.

Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.

Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.

We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Alexander, Leonid, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody. Today we finally climbed up to Norwegian camp site. It took us rather much time.
People say that there is a bad weather forecast for the day after tomorrow and we do not know really what to do. We need two days to try for the summit.

Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Our greetings to everybody! Yesterday we reached Base Camp and homed in it. We found a lot of people there. Thomas Huber told us about his brother Alex Huber that had to left home because had wounded his eye (at least the story runs that). Weather has been standing magnificent for three days, and it hurts us that we arrived so late. We are afraid, that good weather will not hold for some days more and we will not have time to ascend. Tomorrow we are going to climb up to Norwegian camp site and , the day after tomorrow we plan to get the Col and if the weather is good we will make a summit push the next day.

That is all there is to it for today.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
We flied almost lost-free. Only two backpacks with our belongings, sleeping bags, etc. and a tent were lost en route. But as people say money makes the mare go and we are going to buy needed gear in El Calafate where we will take off tomorrow.

And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.

We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

Things are shaking down rapidly. They found Olga's backpack and delivered it. In an hour our plane departs to El Calafate. Our greetings to everybody.

Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.

As expected we bought all needed things in El Calafate. You can't pick and choose here because practically all the things sold there are made by one local company...

There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.

Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.

Alxander, Leonid, Olga.


 Ines PapertHarald Berger

Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Ice Boulder Champions

In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.

Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit:


The team successfully summited on January 29!
On January 29 the guys woke up early in the morning (4 a.m.) and started their summit bid. After they climbed the summit bastion and narrow rocky ridge, all the team reached the Kodar's summit at 9.00. Temperature was negative 43, but weather was breathless. That day all of them safe and sound descended to the base camp toward evening.

Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.

All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.

We congratulate and wait for the winners!

We have already climbed a half of the route. We abide by the schedule. On January 24 we made 3 pitches, it's a record for the present time. Yesterday we made only one pitch. Today two-man team of Dmitrienko and Tsyganov is next in turn to fix the rope on the route. In total, since 19 of January we made 13 pitches - it's approximately a half of the route. Yesterday the team in its full complement took off and now is making themselves at home in a tent settled in a small rocky niche that was found in the area of 12-th pitch.

We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.

Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.

We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.

Keep in touch with us!

For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. In total 9 pitches are climbed. Firm granite, cold, ice-covered rocks. Today Prokof'ev and Belyanin are working. They have to find a convenient site for the first hanging camp. Temperature is negative 30.

New world champions in ice-climbing. January, 21-22, The 2nd World Championships for Difficulty- and Speed Ice Climbing and the 1st Swiss Ice Climbing Masters in Difficulty and Speed, Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.


Difficulty. Men

1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
2 ANTHAMATTEN Simon (Switzerland)
3 LEICHTFRIED Albert (Austria)

4 BENDLER Markus (Austria)
5 ANTHAMATTEN Samuel (Switzerland)
6 WANDELER Simon (Switzerland)
7 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
8 ODERMATT Urs (Switzerland)

Difficulty. Women

1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
2 PAPERT Ines (Germany)
3 MAUREAU Stephanie (France)

4 BUCHMANN Kirsten (Germany)
5 TORRETTA Anna (Italy)
6 EYER Alexandra (Switzerland)
7 FILIPPOVA Maryam (Russia)
8 SHABALINA Maria (Russia)

Speed. Men

1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
2 FAYZULLIN Igor (Russia)
3 CHVED Nikolai (Russia)

4 HOFER Lars (Switzerland)

Speed. Women

1 KOULIKOVA Natalia Russia
2 OLEINIKOVA Joulia Russia
3 TORRETTA Anna Italy

Photo: Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,

On Saturday January, 22, Sergey Borisov was killed in an automobile accident in Ekaterinburg. I do not know, what I can add any more. Suddenly I realized that I have nothing to say if it happens to my friends... because it is not right..

Sergey Borisov

Master of Sport of International Grade
For a long time he was the captain of Sport Club of Army of Ural military region.
He became four times champion of USSR, twice champion of Russia, numerous prize-winner of different national championships.

The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.

1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6).

1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".

1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".

2002 - Everest via Northern col.

2004 - Jannu North Face, summiter


Everything is turning out well. We dug a cave and sorted out the problem of fire wood. Three two-man teams (Prokofiev-Belyaev, Dmitrienko-Tsyganov, Tsygankov - Cherezov) worked alternating on the route for 3 days and made 7 pitches. It became warmer a little, -20, snowfalls. The Wall is ice- and snow-covered.

It's snowing, temperature is -20. 5 pitches are made.

Kodar-2005. Nikolay Zakharov called: We continue to make our base camp more comfortable. There is a lot of snow. We clear away the beaten track to the wall. It's -35. Our greetings to everybody!

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Till the end this expedition was very hard
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than - 40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue. We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the jeeps to Kathmandu.

The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things.. In the evening he didnt come back to BC and we was very worry. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night.

The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have.). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long..

The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!

Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.

P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence first winter Summit as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray


Svetlana Boldykova(24.01.2005)
From January 15-23, 2005 the 2005 Snowboard World Championships took place in Whistler, Canada.
On January 18 Russians sportsmen showed good results: at Women's Parallel Giant Slalom (PGS - Olympic discipline) Svetlana Boldykova became the second, Ekaterina Tudigescheva - the forth and at Men's Parallel Giant Slalom Denis Salagaev was the ninth.

On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.

And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.



Ines Papert breaks record in Ouary Ice Park, USA
Igor Ivashura, CYKHAX ENT, Munich, informs:
This girl just went and did that left behind all the monsters of ice-climbing and showed the best result among men and women on the tenth annual "Ouary Ice Festival" (USA)!!!

Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.

The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.

Ines's result is really unique.

The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"

Total report

1 22:47 WILL GADD
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
13 16:42 ADAM STACK
5 13:53 SUE NOTT

Photo -

Georgian Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Film Festival N I A M O R I
In January-March 2005, in Georgia (former Soviet Union) Tbilisi will host the second annual Mountain Film Festival Niamori


18.01.05 Zakharov called from base camp:
16.01 The bad weather was.
17.01 We finally got to the area of ascent. The gorge is so narrow that the helicopter could not find any convenient site to land and we were dropped in deep snow from a hovering helicopter.

The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.

Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.

Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!

14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to take all our equipment and transport to the village that is 25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring for the sun....



"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.

One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15. We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing we summited.

This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...

Simone and Piotr reached the col and put up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers!...

Simone and Piotr

Petites Jorasses. First free climbing "Omega" route Britons Nick Bullock and Stuart MacAleese became the third team climbed historical Patrick "Gab" Gabarrou's and Ferran Latorre's route "Omega" on Petites Jorasses (Mt. Blanc), (700m, VI/5+,A3).

It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.


Ice-climbing. Jenny Lavarda and Hannes Pfeifhofer are the champions of Italy
The second stage of the Italian Ice-climbing championship "ITALIAN ALPINE CUP" finished at the last weekend in Val Passiria .
At men having got over all the grandees and merited runners as Bubu Mauro Bole and Herbert Klammer Hannes Pfeifhofer, a 18-year climber, unexpectedly won the gold.
Jenny Lavarda, having switched off from rock-climbing on ice in this winter season, took part at such events for the first time and won by a head. Silvia Cian is the second and Monica Gemelli- the third.



GRANDES JORASSES. Linceul (4208m). Winter solo
Ferran Martnez is the Spanish climber soloed the "great classics" of GRANDES JORASSES: Linceul. Some days later his climb was repeated by other Spanish climber Eloi Callado.



The fifth summit under the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter" has been climbed
Sergey Shchepachkov informs:

On January, 9, 2005 a team of climbers (Ivan Artemov, Ivan Alentsev, Victor Afanasyev, Andrey Bukin, and Oleg Bibin) summited Mt. Kazbek (5033m) within the framework of the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter".
Weather during the ascent held ideal. I got cold and had to stop climbing and left the team during the summit push. Proshchenko Maxim and Grishnjachy Leonid had to abandon the team too. The route line went from Northern Ossetia side, through Genaldonskoe gorge via Pastukhova route.

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.



Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
All the night the wind shook the tents and it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud, showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col...

Simone and Piotr

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC (5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going up.

The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...

Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.


Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!. The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult to be...

We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.

Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek that still were in C1.

Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....

Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till 7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek "sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe make already a first summit attempt....

Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?

Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise well and also using that point as the starting point for the summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40 degree and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope till C1.

Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend

The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.

Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550 m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.

Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.

The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold, today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600 m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind... but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get the first technical problem.

Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...

Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.

Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...

We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...

After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible. So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base camp (log way....)

Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...

Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.

On the way to C1(31.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac, below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp I. The altitude is about 6550.

Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.

Ciao, Simone

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32 yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.

Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.

We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!

base camp

Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry 40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA. Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather is still good even the temperature went down in compare of one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team

I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead, I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages. We're sentries up here

We arrived in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.

A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.

The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible
Bye, Simone

Translation by Jonathan Etes

German TOP-climbers Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz did not sustained the most severe gale-force wind and bailed their first ascent Murallon, North face, (Patagonia).

Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma.
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.

Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.

In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra stupid discussion.

Simone, Darek, Piotr

On 12 December Jean-Christophe Lafaille returned to the base camp after his challenge summit (on December 11) Shishapangma.

It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.

The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France,




International calendar for ice-climbing competitions, 2005 season





CHABOT Alexandre
 EITER Angela

World Cup 2004 Top-10

1. MRAZEK Tomas CZE 560.00
2. CHABOT Alexandre FRA 516.00
3. CRESPI Flavio ITA 333.00
4. PETRENKO Maxim UKR 322.00

5. USOBIAGA Patxi ESP 317.00
6. POUVREAU Grome FRA 291.00
7. MILLET Sylvain FRA 268.00
8. FUSELIER Mickael FRA 249.00
9. VERHOEVEN Jorg NED 248.00
10. PUIGBLANQUE Ramn Julin ESP 240.00

1. EITER Angela AUT 535.00
2. SARKANY Muriel BEL 525.00
3. EYER Alexandra SUI 364.00

4. GROS Natalija SLO 364.00
5. CIAVALDINI Caroline FRA 356.00
6. SCHPF Bettina AUT 345.00
7. LAVARDA Jenny ITA 299.00
8. VIDMAR Maja SLO 287.00
9. CUFAR Martina SLO 286.00
10. SHALAHINA Olha UKR 245.00

World Cup. Latest Stage. Kranj, SLO

1. Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
2. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov (RUS)
3. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
2. Natalija Gros (SLO)
3-4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
3-4. Sandrine Levet (FRA)

Simone Moro. Shisha Winter
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.

After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp.

Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.

Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch

About expedition

UIAA Worldcup Difficulty Event Brno (CZE) 2004. Results.
The Winners - Flavio CRESPI, Italy, and Alexandra EYER, Switzerland. At men Tomas MRAZEK, CZE, and Alexandre CHABOT, France, are the second and the third accordingly. And at women the Russian Olga SHALAGINA (!!!) is the second and Maja VIDMAR, Slovenia is the third.

See all the results


Fred Rouhling opens his new line Mandallaz drive, 9
Fred Rouhling has just declared about his successful redpoint of the new project in d'Allonzier la Caille - Mandallaz drive, 9.
In 1993 only lazy did not mock Fred when he declared the first French 9, Hugh line. However in 2001, 8 (!) years later, the category was confirmed by Italian climber Alessandro Lamberti.
1995 "Practically everyone in this world had to doubt of his judiciousness" - It is about Fred Rouhling and his challenging Akira, 9b. Do you really think the world delightfully looked into his eyes?
1997 l'Autre Cote du Ciel (The other side of the sky), the second 9, sent by Fred. Then everything went without any autographs....
3d "9a" of Fred was Fred Nicole's "bain de sang"
2004 Mandallaz drive, 9. Who would doubt... Go, Fred! :)


Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton
On October 5, the two climbed six new pitches, totaling about 1,000 feet of thin ice and mixed climbing. The new route, which is unnamed, started just left of the classic North Face route and ended at the Hossack-McGowan Couloir, which they followed to the East Ridge and eventually reached the summit.
The crux was found on the second pitch, where unprotectable ice forced Koch into a soaking-wet, womb-like feature behind the ice until he could bust through and pull a roof to easier ground. He spent the next belay wringing out his clothes and pouring water out of his boots. A sudden storm then dumped buckets of graupel, which cascaded down the face in one of the most spectacular sights I have witnessed in the mountains, Koch said. When the storm stopped, they continued upward through four more good pitches of ice, including a winding WI 5 pitch that Koch called the nicest ice pitch he has ever done on a mountain route.

Rating of rock-climbers - the world leaders. Bouldering. Speed. Difficulty
In bouldering and speed the sportmen have been already put in their places, "all sweets" are given away, in difficulty there are two events more ahead...

UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004


1. Sandrine Levet, France
2. Olga Bibik, Russia
3. Julia Abramchuk, Russia

1. Daniel Dulac, France
2. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
3. Jerome Meyer, France


1. Tatyana Ruyga, Russia
2. Anna Saulevich, Russia

1. Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
2. Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky, Russia
3. Alexander Peshehonov, Russia

Difficulty. The current rating

1. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
2. Angela Eiter, Austria
3. Bettina Schopf, Austria

1. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
2. Alexandre Chabot, France
3. Gerome Pouvreau, France

All results

Rock Climbing. World Cup in Valence, France. Difficulty.
The winners

1. CHABOT Alexandre FRA
2. Bindhammer Christian Germany
1. Muriel Sarkany Belgium
2. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
2. CUFAR Martina SLO
4. Jenny Lavarda ITA
5. Angela Eiter AUT

The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.

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