Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Erik Lopez (16) does two 9a's
Eric Lopez (16) has done two 9a's on the same day, Ali-Hulk and Los Borrachos del Mascun in Rodellar, Spain. It seems to be a new world record. Last year Erik won the Youth World Champion and this year the 16-year-old was #12 in the last WC.
New 8c+ by Cristophe Zehani
Cristophe Zehani has put up a new 8c+, Kalachnikov in Fetide Beach. Cristophe is #7 in the world ranking has registered 875 routes in the 8a database.
8b+ on-sight by Patxi Usobiaga
Patxi Usobiaga prepared for the Camonix WC by onsighting his 18th 8b+, I am sorry mickey in Yenne, France. Patxi won the overall W last year and he is in the lead in the 8a ranking.
Sergey Bogomolov Ê2: the first group started working on the route and reached up to 5400 meters. The second group set off tomorrow
10.07.07 At last we came to the foot of the mountain and touched it. The first group started working on the route and reached up to 5400 meters. The ideal weather has been holding for two days. The second group has a rest today before tomorrow's start.
09.07.07 Both groups made cargo-climbs. The first one moved ABC in 2 hours closer to the route, having made three cargo's carries. The second group lifted gear to the middle camp once again and descended to BC.
08.07.07 Today the 1st group (Zhumaev -Pivtsov- Sofrygin- Skopin) set off to ABC with the prospect of starting the route. The 2nd group (Bogomolov -Ikhmetov -Puchinin -Brodsky) made a cargo-climb up to the middle camp (4600) and returned to BC and will do the same tomorrow.
Source: Sergey Bogomolov
European Youth Series ended in Leipzig, Germany .
European Youth Series ended in Leipzig, Germany .
A good news: Arman Ter-Minasyan from Moscow compiting in one group with Czech wonder-child Adam Ondra, successively gained his second "children's" victory, won the the third place.
Winners and prize-winners
Male youth A
1. Schubert Jakob AUT
1. Ondra Adam CZE
1. Schmid Christina SUI
Female youth A
1. Wurm Juliane GER
Female youth B
1. Ernst Johanna AUT
New 9a in Kronthal
Julius Westfal has put up a new 9a in Kronthal, close to Strasbourg. The route was eqipped by Yann Corby. No name of the 9a yet.
Magnus Midtbo (18) continues to deliver
Magnus Midtbo, who has won the European Youth Cup the last two weekends and who did an 8c+ in between has once again delivered in Gorges du Loup. The day after his last victory he did Qoussai les maux de la fin, 8c second go and onsighted Dies irae, 8a+ in Gorges du Loup , France. The tallented norwegian is #10 in the world ranking.
Haina Brakk Expedition
For these days we did not find the way under the Southern face among a labyrinth of seracs. So, we determinated the route line via the left part of Southeast face. It will lay to the left of Women and Chalk opened by Mauro " Bubu" Bole.
The team has finished cargo's carry under the wall. Today weather was bad, only in the evening the sun appeared for a little and we climbed some boulders in BC. A team of Japanese guys kept us company. They hope to repeat the Slovene route on East Haina Brakk.
If weather allows, we will take off a day after tomorrow.
We decided a line of the route on a first approximation. If we find the way among a huge icefall under the South face, still unclimbed, we will try it. But today we carry our cargo again.
Denis Savel'ev, the leader of the expedition.
"Krasnoyarsk" Karakorum Expedition 2007
At that time the team led by Oleg Khvostenko also having taken off the portaledges and all the ropes moved upwards. They have already left on a steep "rusty crack" where it's possible to climb during bad weather. By the evening they set a bivy at the 25-th pitch.
At about 4.00 pm the tender sun was shining in the sky and the leaders started to move faster. The duo Evgeny Belyaev and Alexey Komissarov climbed three pitches more and descended to the portaledge for spending the night.
In Mikhalitsin's team Evgeny Belyaev and Igor Loginov led by turn and climbed 10 pitches of a new route, the portaledge is fixed at the seventh one. Tomorrow the team plan to move up to the tenth pitch and to work further. The speed is good, they climb well today Igor freed a serious 80-meter steep wet chimney.
Now it is raining again and windy, but the guys are already in portaledges in heat and had supper. On evening radio communication they send worm words to their native and to friends.
Today, on July, 7, at dawn the four-man team in structure: A.Mikhalitsin , E.Belyaev, I.Loginov, A.Komissarov, started climbing the new route on Great Trango Northwest face.
Now we are not along under the mountain: the Spaniards came yesterday with the aim to climb NAMELESS TOWER via a new route. All the evening long we communicated with them in our wardroom and showed them slides about Ergaki mountain range climbs and films about special bouldering in Stolby* - slabby face climbing (*Slab- the Krasnoyarians call it "katushka". This special rocky relief represents monolithic plates without edges and cracks typical for Krasnoyarsk Stolby rocky pillars) The Spaniards were strongly surprised.
The preparatory stage is completed: two acclimatization climbs are accomplished (with spending the night at 4600, 5350 meters) the gear is carried under the wall two routes of ascents on GREAT TRANGO, Northwest face by two teams are determined. One of them is a new route and the second - repetition of the Ukrainian route 2003. Tomorrow, on July, 6, - a day of rest and preparation and if weather allows the both teams will start.
Seven people stay in BC: expedition's head Nikolay Zakharov, doctor Kukharev, recovering Denis Prokof'ev, the liason officer Ali, the cook Nabi and two his assistants Rujjalla and Mahmad.
Sergey Bogomolov Ê2: Well, we have reached BC at last. 05.07.07
It's the good and glad news that Sochi becomes the capital of 2014 Winter Olympic Games. A day in BC. Regrouping, weighing of cargo and negotiations. The main thing is the people. And the people have their own opinion that can vary day by day. And this time our drovers sent their demands up to the space. But that does not arrange us. And it seems that tomorrow we will make lifting the cargo by ourselves. 4.07.07
Well we have reached BC settled at 3900 m at last. The grass, creek and even bushes there are of about my growth. Besides, there are a lot of biowaste left by camels and herd of bulls that it is possible to make something useful from it. But! The summit is as distant as the moon. But we were fortunate enough to have an unforeseen agreement with our porters.
For the expedition period they will move about the BC at the altitude of advanced base camp on a moraine.
Our task is to plan making depot.
Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007: The team finally has reached Base camp
Greetings to all of you!
For the 10-th day at last we have reached Base camp! Seven days on "deer" and three on foot. There are no bounds to our happiness :-)
There are the green glade, creek, small lake here it's madly beautiful surrounding. The mountain is challenge. The walls around BC give open space to our imagination.
The Trango Group, towering above Uli Biaho glacier, makes indelible impression. However, the opinion of the team appeared unanimous - Haina Brakk is much beautiful :-) Except for us in Base camp there are two more groups - Japanese and Span teams.
Some words about trekking. The way from Askole passes through campings Jolha and Paiju (in Russian "salt"). The narrow tracks breaking in the rough rivers, a lot of sand, yellow licked walls, hanging taluses, poor vegetation (mainly prickly) and animals represented by lots of lizards - the fine place for travel. To tell the truth, it's better to trek there in the morning. In the afternoon the sun is merciless there.
Paiju is a traditional place of gathering of porters. They stand in a circle and sing their national songs. We listened to them with pleasure. And the next day hardly stayed there one day more.
Denis Savel'ev tells about the final day of trekking and team's plans for the nearest days: «Yesterday the trekking from Paiju to BC was on the verge of failure. All the last night and morning long it was raining. The porters went on strike refusing to go further on the glacier in the rain. I and ours sirdar had a great tug to persuade them. And everything had the right way and finally by the evening we were on the place.
The camp altitude is 4300 meters according the satellite. Yesterday the guys felt shivery a little :) but today we seem to be acclimatized.
Our plans for the nearest days: setting of base camp, reconnaissance of approaches under the wall and route line.
Our generator started to work and now we have electricity".
Russia's Sochi wins 2014 Winter Olympic Games
Being ahead of Salzburg (Austria ) and Pyeongchang (South Korea) Russia's Sochi wins 2014 Winter Olympic Games bid at 119th International Olympic Committee (IOC) session taken place in Guatemala on July 4.
The second 8ñ from Charlotte Durif
Within several weeks 18-year old Charlotte Durif does her second 8ñ, " Tete de Gondole " (Boffy area, nearby to Milleau).
Charlotte was engaged in rock-climbing since she was six, and started to take part in competitions at the age of eight. In 2004 she won the World Youth Championship, and things are up and running :-) Charlotte is the female ranking leader and #9 among the men according 8a.nu
Sergey Bogomolov Ê2: Climbed up to 4350m
Moving to Yilik (3500m) appears long not on distance, but on time due to frontier posts and hard road through two passes (3200m and 4300m) and a dirt road at the end.
30.06.07 I feel weak a little after yesterday's road. By the way, this road up to our divarication and farther, in 1200 km to Tibet, was constructed by Chinese army for 13 months. And it is in fine asphalted condition, except for the passes, where there is an excellent graded area. Since the early morning we were packing, and the camel caravan came for loading. The journalists and technical service went back, leaving 4 jeeps in Kargilik for our way back. Short trekking under unseasonable heat - 3 hours up to 3700meters.
Well, at last, we got into a normal working period. Climbed up to 4350m for 8 hours. The gorge's entry reminds Hollywood films about the Wild West at the first sight.
In the wake of David Lama. Zhenya Kazbekova (10), 7b!
We have just come back from Europe after climbing in Arko and Dolomite.
Source: Natalia Perlova, Serik Kazbekov, Dnepropetrovsk
Bereziartu and Otegui: the first free ascent of Super Weissmuller
8a/8a + on the SW Face of Petit Pic De Ansabere (France) Sweet couple Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegui made the first free ascent of Super Weissmuller 8a/8a + on the SW Face of Petit Pic De Ansabere (France.)
The eight pitch route had been first climbed by the Spaniards Mikel Zabalza and Unai Mendia three years ago with one point of aid.
Bereziartu and Otegui attempted to on-sight the line but failed on the crux: the pitch, which they sent second go and freed at 8a/8a +. Although the route has some small bolts and pegs almost all pitches need to be equipped with trad gear, with fairly long run-outs at times: even such strong climbers do not want to fall there.
The limestone Petit Pic De Ansabere is located in the Pyrenees close to the French - Spanish border. According to Bereziartu it is well worth a visit: the area is wild and alpine, and the wall is reached after a circa 2 hour walk in the beautiful Cirque of Lescun.
Super Weissmuller - Petit Pic De Ansabere (France) First ascent: Mikel Zabalza and Unai Mendia 2004
Kazakhstan Ê2 Expedition
The team arrived to Kargilik. The things are going according to the plan. In Kashgar we bought some food before departure and went on further. On the road the vehicles became to look like the real ships of the desert after getting into a dust-storm.
Il'insky Edvard, the expedition head, coach Zhumaev Maksut, the captain.
Date update: 3.10.2007
K2 West Face Direct Russian National expedition: Weather began to change for the better. Shabalin's group is settling in Ñ3 and going to continue work on the route. The rocks of the central part of the bastion are ahead.
25.06.07 Group led by Totmyanin has changed Bolotov's group and continued fixing the rope above Ñ2: a duo Totmyanin-Shamalo made three pitches more and got a snow ledge where it was possible to set to shape a platform under a tent Solo +, Volodin and Komarov made a cargo climb from Ñ2. The three climbers stayed for the night at Ñ3 Komarov descended to Ñ2. The group led by Gleb Sokolov hauled the gear from ABC to Ñ1.
Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007
The team arrived to Askole one day late.
Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007
Our greetings to everybody! Expedition's life began. We are in Chilas. After 12 hours of driving from Islamabad we have seen the first snow summit - Nanga Parbat. The Diamir Wall arose in our mind towering with its snow-ice terrain.
Tomorrow we come to the fore by a minibus heading to Skardu. And further from there- by jeeps.
We are fine and in a brave mood. And if the chaos of traffic in Pakistan made our blood run cold for the first time, by the evening high-speed driving on the wrong side of the road at rather intensive traffic on the Karakoram highway rose a smile on our faces. It seems all the drivers here are identical :-)
One of the problems for the nearest days is not to catch cold and not to poison. The conditioner is continuously working inside a car but there is too hot outside. We are two-minded about local food and keep first aid kit up our sleeve.
News from Sergej Bogomolov
Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007 starts on June, 24 from Moscow
Object of ascent: Haina Brakk (Shipton Spire) - 5852m.
Date update: 29.06.2007
PUMARI CHHISH SOUTH first ascent
On June, 12 French climbers Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff made FA in Alpine style of Pumari Chhish South (7350m), the removed peak of Hispar Muztagh, Pakistan, Karakoram.
On June, 8, having skied the western Yutmaru glacier, the guys started to work on 60-degree snow east slope of Pumari Chhish South face. At last, after three days of climbing on abrupt snow sites the duo reached the headwall, 6700m, where they rested against of 300-meter vertical, ice-covered rocky pillar that they almost free climbed except for a 30-meter site on a hanging two-sided corner that the guys had to aid-climb but in high-spirit. After the headwall, Yannick and Christian stayed for the night, and the next morning they climbed the 300-meter ridge leading up to the virgin summit. They had grand weather during the entire ascent.
Trommsdorff compared the steepness and character of ice surface to the Eiger North face but added that the headwall at the altitude about 7000 meters, in his opinion, is more hard than the Northwest pillar (ED2: M6 + 70 degrees, 1950m) of Chomolari (7326m): Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic climbed it in Alpine style in 2006 and won the Piolet d'Or. (That time Christian Trommsdorff served on the jury).
Czech Ê2 Expedition. Tomo Cesen's route. Camp 3 is pitched
The Czech team led by Leopold Sulovsky working on K2, Tomo Cesen's route, has established camp 3 at 7030 meters.
K2 West Face Direct Russian National expedition: TV show "Super-grandfather". Bastion. Bottom part
June, 25, 20-00 Moscow time
It's a real screenplay for TV show "Super-grandfather"! Today we got the news that Gleb Sokolov became a grandfather once again - he has already got a grandson and his GRAND DAUGHTER was born!
Alexey Bolotov, Alexander Korobkov and Sergey Penzov descended to base camp. Alexey: "Well, now we are at home after six days of working. The bottom part of the bastion is very hard. We had to overcome an overhang (it being understood that it's not a cornice but a 3-meter smooth hanging site). Alexander Korobkov led and did it. There are a lot of such difficult pitches here, but instead of North face of Jannu they alternate with less complex ledges. The wall is really difficult. 5-6 pitches from already climbed ones are very abrupt.
One of the friends made in Ukraine broke down and I fell 4 meters. But things came right and without traumas: I am safe and sound.
Today Nikolay Totmyanin made 2,5 pitches and fixed camp 3 (7150 m). It is an absolutely small tent just to take a breath (the camp 2 is so distant to get it quickly). In the morning he will to start to climb further".
Two 8b onsight by Becan 25/06
Kleman Becan onsighted Acht be, 8b and Merkl Rinne in Warmbad, Austria,last saturday.
8c+ by Adam Ondra (14) 25/06
Adam Ondra has done his 10th 8c+ during 2007, Hattori Hanzo in Frankenjura, Germany. 14-year-old Adam is #3 on the world ranking.
Ramon Julian Puigblanque has onsighted Pequena Estrella
During the last week Ramon Julian Puigblanque has onsighted Pequena Estrella, 8b+ and redpointed three 8c+ and three 8c. Black pearl, 8c+ was a FA in Rodellar. Ramonet is #2 on the world ranking.
Kazakhstan K2 Expedition: Presentation of National Team.
On June 16 the National Team of Kazakhstan was presented near the memorial "Victim in mountains" at the in Tuyuk Su area. And on June 25 the new Kazakhstan K2 Expedition will start.
In solemn atmosphere the president of Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing of the Republic of Kazakhstan Baghlan Zhunusov read the list of team's members to the audience of climbers and alpinists and a big group of state mass-media journalists and television reporters: Brodsky Sergey, Zhumaev Maksut, Ismetov Malik, Pivtsov Vasily, Puchinin Andrey, Sofrygin Alexander and Skopin Aggey. The climbers stayed here dressed in red jackets with Expedition stripes: they had time to come back from training on Tuyuk Su rocks where they took part in the Republican Open Championship on climbing technique.
Third victory for Cyril Despres
After 2004 and 2005 it is again Cyril Despres from France who wins the Red Bull Romaniacs Hard Enduro Rallye in 2007, gaining his third victory in the fourth edition of the rally. German Privateer Gerhard Forster finishes second overall ahead of the New Zealander Chris Birch. Despres won the last special over 190km ahead of Chris Birch and Gerhard Forster.
The first man early away this Thursday morning was Michel Gau. The Frenchman had retaken the overall lead from Cyril Despres yesterday. As it was quite probable that these two riders fought it out, both of them were motivated to give their best on the last and decisive day of the fourth Red Bull Romaniacs Hard Enduro Rally. However, Michel Gau had the bad luck on his side and crashed only 30 minutes after the start he slipped on a piece of wood made him fall off the bike and against a tree. His right arm was broken and he was not able to continue the race. Cyril Despres immediately stopped and stayed with him until the first aid arrived. 20 minutes later he continued the race without knowing how many riders had already passed.
“The hardest day of all four off-road stages”, the riders agreed unanimously after they had successfully and literally taken the last steps to the finish high above Sibiu. The see-saw right at the beginning, steep uphills, an almost never-ending and slippery downhill and a merciless last ascent to the day’s and overall finish – just to mention a few of today’s specialities the remaining 78 participates had to deal with.
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All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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