Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Russian rock-climbing federation
Public All-Russia Organization
On December, 16 at concluding conference of Russian Rock-Climbing Federation taken place in Ekaterinburg during open vote Dmitry Bychkov was elected as the new president of Federation by majority voices.
The conference passed in dramatized situation because of the part of members of the board with the ex-president A. Pirotinsky disagreed with the decision of the representatives of the most part of Russian regions left the conference room casting a dissenting vote.
In this connection Dmitry Bychkov told the following:
But all the same I'm damnably sorry that the members of the board of the Federation that were the old federation hands and experienced in working for federation for years for one reason or another refused to participate in a further work of the conference. I hope that after a while they will appeal from Philip drunk to Philip sober and continue their activity for the benefit of Russian rock-climbing as the members of the Board. I object to the revolutionary processes. And I consider that the intergenerational continuity and saved good professional practice are always better than any fine gestures like burning bridges and ships.
Going to the polls I did not aspire to cancel the great executed work done by the Federation and to begin again from the up. I support the democratization of Federation management, fair standards to the sportsmen, trainers and organizers of competitions, transparency of the information about Federation activity.
And this vote shows that the majority of the Russian rock-climbers are of the same mind. Now I must keep to my promises.
Marital status: married, children of 4 and 8 years.
Experience of supervising work: the head of DDS rock-climbing club, Moscow, the chairman of rocky committee of Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing, the president of Moscow Rock-climbing Federation since 2006.
Additional information: Dmitry Shushpanov, press-secretary of Russian Rock-Climbing Federation. Ph. 8-901-523-83-75, e-mail: email@example.com
Date update: 21.12.2006
Klemen Becan: 8b+ 17/12
Klemen Becan onsigted Falconetti, 8b+ in Mont Sant.
UIAA News: Competition Calendar 2007
Russian Rock-climbers' Ranking as of 31.12.06
1 Kaurov Ivan St.-Petersburg
1 Vajtsehovsky Evgeny Bashkortostan
1 Abramchuk Julia St.-Petersburg
1 Chereshneva Yana Moscow
1 Saulevich Anna Sverdlovsk region
Russian Cup 2006, Bouldering.
1. Rakhmetov Salavat (Bashkortostan)
1. Abramchuk Julia (Saint Petersburg)
Robert Jasper and Roger Schali orepeat " Bocconi amari "
On 7 November Robert Jasper (Germany) and Roger Schali (Switzerland) made the second ascent of "Bocconi amari", the hard 400-meter mixed route, opened for the first time by Italians Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on October, 26, the North face of Triangolo nero on Mt. Emilius (Aosta).
According to the pioneers it is a beautiful, psychologistic and super-hard mixed line with loose belay and gullies, difficult rock, thin ice.
MONTE EMILIUS (3559m), Triangolo nero North Face, Aosta valley BOCCONI AMARI 400 m First ascent: Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier (Italy) 26.10.2006 First repeat: Roger Schali (Switzerland) and Robert Jasper (Germany) 07.11.2006 Ice and mixed: WI 6 / M7 E-scale: E 3/4
Loic Fossard : first repeat of L'arquee type du mal, 8c +/9a
Loic Fossard made the first repetition of L'arquee type du mal, 8c +/9a in Kronthal opened by Pierre Bollinger.
Date update: 20.12.2006
New expedition to Andes Mountains
New expedition to Andes Mountains with UPAME, Latin America UIAA Branche, and UIAA itself will start in January 2007.
Contact: Edison Acuña Leiton
PIOLET D'OR: nominees are made public
Two "our" teams are among them.
Baghlan Zhunusov from Arco: "The situation is the IÑÑ adopted the final resolution about separation from UIAA.
Baghlan Zhunusov informs: At ICC Technical Commissions Meeting, held in Arco on December 2- 3, the IÑÑ (International Council for Competition Climbing ) adopted the final resolution about to become independent International Federation and separation from UIAA.
Chris Sharma: " La Rambla ", 9a +
In 2003 Ramon Julian Puigblanque established a 40-meter line of 17 quickdraws " La Rambla ", 9a +, in Siurana, Spain.
If last week Edu Marin Garcia announced its second ascent, that now Chris has stretched the Basque-Spanish company
"Baltic Open Bouldering Edition 2007"
From March 30 till April the 1st International competition of climbing sport "Baltic Open Bouldering Edition 2007" will run during exhibition "Resting and Sports at the exhibition hall "Kipsala” " (Exhibition hall BT1, Kipsalas str. 8, Riga ). The best sportsmen from Lithuania, Estonia, Russia and Scandinavia will be invited to this competition.
More information: firstname.lastname@example.org and by phone +371 29403822.
Valery Rozov: B.A.S.E. in Venezuela. Divine weather!
Valery Rozov by satellite phone from Venezuela: "We jumped from Angel Falls (976m) two times today. Cool! Divine weather! Four jumps we plan to make tomorrow, the day after tomorrow - two jumps more :-) "
World Cup in Kranj. Results
Andreas Bindhammer: Abysse 9a/a+ encore.
On October, 26 Andreas Bindhammer after 16-day working (spread out over six weeks) made the first repetition of of Abysse, the 9a,in Deverse (Gorges du Loup, France).
Alexandre Chabot, the disgraced rock climber, switched his attention from competitive rock-climbing on actually ROCK-CLIMBING by force of the confusing circumstances, first opened this 100 % "natural" route B the middle of this summer and graded it as 9à.
Unfortunately during that time a pair of footholds broke and this is why Andreas states " Abysse is a route without compromises: it has no rest whatsoever throughout all it's 40 moves and for me it was a total challenge. I would tell, that it is more likely 9à +, than 9à. With the two footholds I broke that are now missing, my feeling is that it's a really hard 9a, I would say 9a/a +. Abysse is also the hardest route I've ever climbed: I found it more demanding than KinematiX or Ground Zero, both graded 9a... "
Ten climbers are reported missing in Nepal
Searches of ten climbers missing on two Nepalese peaks are under way.
On November 11 an avalanche wiped out Ama Dablam Camp 3 with six climbers from two teams: two Swedes, a Briton and three Sherpas. Searchers are combing the area by helicopter and foot, but only debris has been found.
It seems the avalanche collapsed when the climbers were sleeping in the camp bivied on the popular Southwest Ridge route, hardly below so-called "Dablam" hanging glacier.
In the mean time four French climbers attempting to climb Paldor Peak (5896m) in the Ganesh Himal to the north from Katmandu in October did not return in the required time to the capital of Nepal.
The searchers flied by the helicopter to their base camp but no signs of the climbers were found.
UIAA Climbing Worldcup (Lead), Penne, Italy, 2006
1. David Lama, Austria
2. Patxi Usobiaga, Spain
3. Flavio Crespi, Italy
4.Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
5.Ramon Julian Puigblanque Spain
6. Jorg Verhoeven, Netherlands
7. Cedric Lachat, Switzerland
8. Eduard Marin Garcia, Spain
1. Angela Eiter, Austria
2. Caroline Ciavaldini, France
3. Sandrine Levet, France
4. Natalija Gros, Slovenia
5. Maja Vidmar, Slovenia
6. Lucka Franko, Slovenia
7. Mina Markovic, Slovenia
8. Yana Chereshneva, Russia
Historical video: Adam Ondra sending 9à
In 2005 Thomas Mrazek sent Martin Krpan 9a, in Osp, Slovenia.
On November, 11 2006 Adam Ondra (the wonderchild of 13) finally repeated it after 14-day working.
Accomplished! 9à in 13 years. Adam Ondra (And who have you thought about?)
Brano Goga informs all the climbing public that the 13-years old Czech kid Adam Ondra has sent Martin Krpan, 9a, in Misja Pec, Osp, Slovenia!
This year Adam has on-sighted eight 8b's, but is there any sence in remembering that after he did 9a?
Provisional Competition calendar 2007
Open Championship of Irkutsk area runs on November, 18-19 2006 in Irkutsk.
18.11 - opening the competition, qualification Lead, finals Lead.
19.11 - bouldering: qualification and finals, ceremony of rewarding and closing the competition.
The first Festival " Piolet d'Or Asia " runs in Seoul (South Korea) on November 8-11.
1. Urubko-Samoilov, Manaslu, new route in Alpine style.
2. Gu Eun-su, 36, and Yu Sang-beom, 29, (South Korea) Talay Sagar, 6904 m (Indian Himalayas). North ridge.
3. Katsutaka Yokoyama and Fumitaka Ichimura (Japan), new route " Before the dawn" (V 5.9 M6 AI4+), openned on Broken Tooth North Face, Alaska, in April 2006: a 23-pitch mixed route of average complexity may become "classic"
At the festival Denis Urubko and Sergey Samoilov are going to show their film " 5 dreams of Manaslu" with subtitles in English.
In the middle of December the GARAGE Club (Saint Petersburg) will open "GARAGE BOULDER CRISTMAS 2006" - the second and the final stage of the series of bouldering festivals in 2006. The GARAGE Club competitions now will be collectively called "Rubik's* CUP". This year, understandably, the challenge Rubik's CUP will be presented by results counted after only two events (the first one was in September - Festival "Garage Bloc Contest 2006"). Since 2007 as it is planned "Rubik's CUP" will run in three stages - in spring, autumn and winter.
"Rubik" wishes good starts to all of you!
* Rubik is the fanatical guy: nothing pleases him so much as fighting with the problems :-)
UIAA-ICC World Cup 2006
UIAA Climbing Worldcup - MoscowQualification, Semi Final
UIAA Climbing Worldcup Final stage (Bouldering+Speed) - Moscow 2006
The known rock-climber Todd Skinner fell to his death
The known rock-climber Todd Skinner, set up a lot of records and successfully completed more than 300 first ascents in 26 countries including the hardest in the Himalayas, fell to his death in California. Skinner had finished opening a new route on Leaning Tower in Yosemite National park and already started to descend when fell down precipice of 150 meters RIA NOVOSTI informs.
Together with his partner Todd was climbing near to the most known Bridavale falls. A course of skilled rock-climber's fall remains obscure as yet.
Todd Skinner: "At the summit of a great mountain the focus should not be on how far we have come, but on how much farther we now can go"ToddSkinner.com
Calendar 2007 and Championships 2008 and 2009 decided at the UIAA Climbing
The 2007 UIAA Climbing ICC calendar was approved by ICC members during the
European Championship 2008 - Paris, France hosted by FFME
2007 Calendar :
Russian Championship: Lead, Bouldering, Speed, Ufa, Bashkortostan.
First Don Cho Oyu Expedition has successfully been held!
Source: Dmitry Podlesny
|Íàçàä [1-30] [31-60] [61-90] [91-120] [121-150] [151-180] [181-210] [211-240] [241-270] [271-300] [301-330] [331-360] [361-390] [391-420] [421-450] [451-480] [481-510] [511-540] [541-570] [571-600] [601-630] [631-660] [661-690] [691-720] [721-750] [751-780] [781-810] [811-840] [841-870] [871-900] [901-930] [931-960] [961-990] [991-1020] [1021-1050] [1051-1080] [1081-1083] Äàëåå|
All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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