Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Date update: 5.02.2008
Vince Anderson and Steve House, the winners Piolet d'Or for their Nanga Parbat Rupal Face summit in Alpine style in 2005, came back in Islamabad after Kunhan Chhish attempt. The climb took 8 days base to top and back.
They headed back to Charakusa valley in 2006, where he opened a beautiful line on K7 in 2004. This year, Steve was going for the peak next to K7: K6, whose main summit is 7281m. The peak has been attempted several times since an Austrian team accomplished the first ascent in the seventies. K6 has a spectacular north face - a tempting challenge for House.
But due to the peak's location in restricted area, their climbing permit was denied. Instead, they headed to Kunhan Chhish where bad weather wrecked the summit attempt this time.
The peak has been attempted several times since an Austrian team accomplished the first ascent in the seventies. K6 has a spectacular north face - a tempting challenge for House.
"Pakistan is very safe," is the Americans' message to fellow mates, "and the food is great." The guys also say they might come back for K6 next year or the striking Masherbrum.
First Don Cho Oyu Expedition
22.09.2006 Arrived from Katmandu in Nialam (Tibet), located at 3600 m.
We live in Snow Land Hotel. It seems there is a double ceiling in our room: all the night long the rats were running with terrible patter of their "hoofs". And there are yak's horns and a part of a skull on the sill behind the window for driving out malign forces and spirits. Soldiers of the Chinese National Army play QUAKE network game in the Internet - cafe. We have tasted the Chinese brandy and beer Lhasa. Chinese and Tibetans live here. And nobody speak English. We have acclimatized up to 4300 on the nearest hills. On September 23 our caravan with cargo headed to base camp.
Tomorrow, 25.09 we are going to Tingri (4200 m) to stay there for a day. It is the last advanced post of a relative civilization. For the second day we have been trying to see the panorama of Himalaya from the neighboring hills, but it is ineffectual due to a dense fog. The monsoon has not left yet. The guys took in amulets from the Tibetan silver for luck, good health, riches, safety, happiness etc.
First Don Cho Oyu Expedition successfully reached Katmandu, where the guys have time to buy lacking things. The team is very pleased with the host company there are no problems, all the agreements hold (keep your fingers crossed!).
They are incommoded by the one inconvenience: monkey! It is very unusual to see them running around the streets instead of cats and dogs. That makes the guys nervous.
Source: Alexander Zelensky
Angela Eiter on-sighted Skyline 8b
Better known for her results in competions, Angela Eiter has been spending more time than usual this year climbing outdoors. The result is an impressive 8b on-sight of Skyline at Bürs, Austria..
Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world, located in Khumbu region, Eastern Nepal, along the Tibetan border, 30 kilometers to the West from Everest. . Cho Oyu presents a powerful rocky formation with the extensive snow-dome summit. The massif does not seem especially terrible surrounded by almost eight-thousanders. It is one of the more popular and considered the least dangerous of the 8,000-meter peaks on the planet.
Two extended spurs leave to the south and the southeast and another short one - to the northwest dividing Kvetrak and Palung glaciers. In this spur in a beautiful peak Palung Ri, 6888m, is situated north of Cho Oyu only 5km away.
Cho Oyu summit part, that represents a table-like uplift, and adjoining sites of the Main ridge and spurs consist mainly of granitic rocks and gneisses covered with limestone identical to Everest and Lhotse rocks.
The team started from the great firn basin via the ice ridge of South-East face (Myshlyaev wall) and summited on August, 11. Teams members: Summiters: Reutov Veniamin from Perm and Zemlyansky Igor from Orenburg, Participated: Chumakov Andrey, Golovachev Alexander (both from Perm) and Smirnov Dmitry (Orenburg). The guys took the previous summit message dated: an ascent of a team led by Andrey Lebedev of 7 years ago. " I want to add, that a team of six English climbers attempted this route last year. They reached Abdukagor pass and then the two strongest of them set off to make the summit bid, but did not returned at the appointed time. Searches with the helicopter were without any results. This time we found and took a photograph of two pairs of trainers withstood the ravages of time, probably belonged to the disappeared English climbers".
Source: Veniamin Reutov
News from Crimea. Lena Krivonos and "Vremya-Ch"
"... We are leaving Crimea. Apprehending autumn wearies we don't want to drift out such warm corner.
Source: Elena Krivonos, Kharkov, Ukraine,
Date update: 19.09.2006
UIAA Worldcup Lead, Marbella (ESP) 2006.
Yana Chereshneva (Trial Sport) - is the seventh.
Source: Venera Chereshneva, Moscow
Date update: 19.09.2006
La Colmiane (France) Bouldering 2006. Julia Abramchuk- the second, Olga Bibik- the fourth.
La Colmiane (France) Bouldering 2006. The winners are declared: Chloe Graftiaux, Belgia, is the first, Julia Abramchuk- the second, Olga Bibik- the fourth.
2. Jerome Meyer, FRA.
3. Julien Meral,FRA.
All the problems present passive heel and hand hooks.
Source: Olga Bibik
During this last August Mike Foley (age 16) finished three more routes at Rumney, New Hampshir, USA: Dark Star 8b (5.13d), Strict Scrutiny 8b+ (5.14a) and Urban Surfer 8b (5.13d).
So far, during the last two years Mike climbed 15 routes of 5.13 grade. It looks that another strong climber appearing at the scene.
Source: Aleksey Shuruyev
During the first three weeks of August, Polish expedition of the University Mountaineering Club from Lodz operated in in the Karavshin Region, Kyrgyzstan.
Adam and Pawel Pustelnik dis new route on the west face of Ortotyubek (3850), Karavshin Region - Amba VI, 7c/c+,1100m.
Pawel Pustelnik describes Amba in the following words: "The majority of the route solves a new terrain, yet at some points the route intersects, and on at least one pitch follows, an unidentified aid route. The aid line wasn't mentioned in the topo published by Y. Koshlenko in Desnivel but on our way through the series of roofs, we found old pitons and two belay bolts. (Mountain.RU: It's Ivanov route) While climbing Amba, we tried to leave behind as little fixed protection as possible - we ed a single belay bolt and on the key pitch through the roofs (7c/c+) we used 3 old bolts as pro. The rest of climbing follows the rules of the clean style."
Additionally, Slawek Cyndecki, Adam and Pawel Pustelnik onsighted the famous Perestroika Crack (VI, 7b, 1000m) at Slesov (also known as the Russian Tower, 4240m). The route was originally freed by French team in 1993 and repeated in a single 28-hour push by Greg Child and Lynn Hill in 1995.
Slawek Cyndecki, Pawel Grenda and Marcin Szymelfenig made an unsuccessful attempt at opening a new route on an unnamed tower (approx. 4300m) located in the south-east range of the Peak 4810. After leading 22 pitches, the team gave up and abseiled due to constant bombardment by stone blocks as large as TV-sets.
Yuji Hirayama & Kinematix, 9a
Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama (Team Beal) did Kinematix 9a yesterday
Lena Krivonos: "Eskadron", 8a, (Nikita area, Crimea) in fourth go
"It is warm in the Crimea and wonderful weather holds. I've sent Eskadron", 8a, fourth go, "Fiesta", 8à, and "Mandrazh", 8à ".
" URAL-CHO OYU 2006 " Expedition .
Ural Cho Oyu Expedition 2006 team in structure - Gennady Kirievsky, Alexey Bolotov, Alexander Ovchinnikov, Vladimir
Lutsenko, Valery Ragozin, Dmitry Frolenko and Anton Lomovskih - arrived to Katmandu on September, 04 2006.
Polish team - Lukasz Muller and Rafal Porebski - repeated Via Italia 8a - a multipitch route at Piz Ciavazes (the Dolomites).
Via Italia - 250m AID route, first climbed in 1961. In 2004 it was freed by Mauro Bubu Bole.
Ramon Julian Puigblanque onsights 8c
Ramon Julian Puigblanque has onsighted his second 8c, Iron man r2 in Rodellar. The route has been put up by Dani Andrada. Ramonet is #6 in the world ranking.
Another 9a+ combo by Andrada
Dani Andrada has added a 7C sitstart to his existing 9a link-up Ali Hulk, 9a. A 15 move 7C into a 9a sounds (and I'm sure feels) very hard. Especially as the "route" is climbed rope less.
On the 8th of September, Jenny Lavarda (Italy) managed to send Claudio Caffè,8c, at the crag of Terra Promessa (Arco - Italy). Claudio Caffe is a 32m long overhanging route bolted by Francois Legrand.
At the time François sent the route and graded it 8c/+.
Jenny is the 11th woman to send such a grade:
Josune Bereziartu (ESP) Honky Tonky 8c, Campezzo, Spain 1998
Liv Sansoz (FRA) Hasta la Vista 8c/c+, Mt. Charleston, USA, 2000
Marietta Uhden (GER) Sonne im Herzen 8c, Kochel, Germany, 2001
Aleksandra Taistra (POL) Power Play VI.7/8c, the Pr #261dnik Valley, Poland, 2004
Beth Rodden (USA) The Optimist 5.14b/8c (FA), Smith Rock, USA, 2004
Eva Lopez (ESP) Nuria 8c, Cuenca, Spain 2005
Martina #268ufar (SLO) Vizija 8c, Osp, Slovenia, 2005
Maja Vidmar (SLO) Osapski pajek 8c, Osp, Slovenia 2006
Natalija Gros (SLO) Strelovod 8c, Osp, Slovenia 2006
Kinga Ociepka (POL) Geminis 8c, Rodellar, Spain 2006
Jenny Lavarda (ITA), Claudio Caffè 8c/+, Terra Promessa, Italy 2006
Basque climber Alberto Inurrategui in a team Juan Vallejo and Ferran Latorre will attempt to climb a direct route up the North face of Everest, following the "Hornbein" couloir in the Alpine style. The base camp should be established by August, 26, the summit bid is planned in the middle of September.
Jon Beloki, Alberto's constant partner this time doesn't join him gaving a reason of insufficient motivation for this feat. They have been together in their previous Al Filo de lo Imposible (At the Edge of the Impossible) expeditions, which films documentaries for TVE (Spain TV). Their last expedition together was to Shivling in last May.
Tomi Nytorp creates the real history of Finnish rock-climbing. On 31-st of July Tomi sent the first 8c in Finland!
Here his comment about that: "I've been visiting Nummi cliff several times (during 4 days to be exact) to work the line between 'Estrella' and 'Shake My Tree'. Today I finally found myself clipping the anchor more pumped than ever. I named the route 'Syncro'. The difficulty must be around 8c but as you know, it's hard to give an exact grade. Anyway this is clearly the hardest route I've ever climbed. Some facts about the line: Around 40 moves, one poor rest 10 moves before anchor. Barely no chalking during the first 30 moves. Six clips with three hard ones. A real stamina test and extraordinary nice line!"
Inaki Ochoa de Olza, 39-year climber of Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, in a team with the North American Tom Jem on September 10 arrives to the Chinese base camp aiming to climb Shisha Pangma (8.027 meters) north face-northeast ridge.
There are ten "eight-thousanders" in his bag. Last spring he and Jorge Egocheaga summited Manaslu, and this time Inaki is going to visit his old familiar: in 1995, he summited the central top (8008 meters), and in March 2005 he refused Shisha Pangma Solo Expedition summit bid (8027m) after he got in an avalanche. He was lucky to be alive after that: he only injured a shoulder. Last September a two-mat team Ochoa-Egocheaga stopped the south face climbing because illness.
He will climb between the two summits or will make a traverse below them depending on the conditions of the route and weather.
Dmitry Sharafutdinov (a.k.a. Sharf) overcame "Centaur", 8b +.
We'll just run through the fact that it is his first visit the rocks :) Earlier after the epic sending of "Moment Istiny (Moment of True)" (the non-graded bouldering problem in Sosnyak area had been tried almost for two years by climbing monsters of all sorts) he onsighted "Strannik (Wanderer)", 8à, and "Udalets Pashka", 8à (named to the memory of Pavel Samoilin, the world, USSR and Russia champion from Ekaterinburg died in a motor vehicle crash near Krasnoyarsk 10 years ago) and redpointed "Breeze", 8à.
The chronicle of expedition of Anatoly Dzhuliy in Tien-Shan.
Peak of Voennykh (Army) Topographers (6873m) - new route!
Anatoly Dzhuly: "We are recreating ourselves in Aksu"
"We are recreating ourselves in Aksu. Having climbed two simple passes more we left the area 35-40km running, but have nothing to show for it.
We could not get the return tickets for August and are going to take off on September 1-3. Now we are twisting down the fattening food as everybody has lost 10-17kg! (please God the guys will not get excess weight :
Greetings to all!
Chinese Tien Shan 2006. Descended from Peak of Voennykh (Army) Topographers .
August, 23. 18.00 Moscow time.
"Today we safely got BC after descending not via ascent route as it had been planned but in other way. In total we made about 30 rappels.
Now (23.00 Chinese times) we celebrate our eventual success in our main mission of this season. Dining by candle-light, pancakes, guitar...
The guys' faces have a triumphant expression.
Further plans - through a simple pass to leave for the next valley and finally to get the civilization. The nearest settlement we plan to reach approximately on August, 28.
Our greetings to everybody!!!"
Chinese Tien Shan 2006. Summit!
"Today, on August, 20 at 18.00 Moscow time Anatoly Dzhuly called and reported that on August, 19 at 12.00 the team summited Peak of Voennykh (Army) Topographers: it was the coronation of this challenge first ascent of the peak via the most beautiful ridge!!
The team started to descend on ascent route and this time set a bivy at about 6500m.
The guys plan to reach base camp settled on the glacier in about 3 days."
Chinese Tien Shan 2006
Anatoly Dzhuly's call on August, 17, at 17.30 Moscow time.
Today it was a good day. We have climbed up to above 6000m. Now we are finishing hauling ropes and tomorrow if weather allows (according to the forecast we will not have big problems with the weather for the nearest 2-3 days, keep your fingers crossed), we will try to fix the next hard rocks, one of the last on this ridge.
Basically the guys are in good health. Everyone work on the route selflessly. We have about 4 days left up to the summit.
Chinese Tien Shan 2006. we are short of ropes :)
Anatoly Dzhuly's call on August, 16, at 10.10 Moscow time.
We are sitting at 5800 under the "Black back", on a hanging glacier.
On tentative estimations we need five days to get the summit. We should to touch the rocks to tell that more precisely.
At the present three of us are descending for the ropes: we are really short of ropes here and have to shuttle for them: such rope ping-pong.
We are in good mood and normal health. Today King's weather rings.
On September 3rd new Expedition " URAL-CHO OYU 2006 " has started
2 groups of climbers aim to summit Cho Oyu, 8201 metres, the sixth highest mountain in the world.
Kirievsky Gennady, the leader,
Ragozin Valery (Everest from the North)
Ovchinnikov Alexander (Àmà Dablam)
Lutsenko Vladimir (Àmà Dablam)
Bolotov Aleksey- the leader.
Frolenko Dmitry (Àmà Dablam)
Under the plan Expedition will last till October, 18.
Look the details and news about expedition running on Mountain.ru
Kokodak Peak 7210 first ascent (Kashgar range, Kun-Lun Mountains,China).
Expedition started on July 17 from Moscow and arrived to base camp under the foot of the mountain on July 21.
By July 1 the guys settled base camps at 5500 and 6100 and made acclimatization climbs. First 10 days propitious weather held, but the next days it really deteriorated that made allowances for the crucial summit bid.
Nevertheless on July 10 Ivan Dusharin (Tolyatti), Elena Lebedeva (Chernogolovka), Lev Ioffe (New Jersey) and Alexander Novik (Moscow) started from camp 6500 and at 19.00 reached the summit. All the route basically went on ice-snow terrain, at 7000-7200 the team fixed ropes on rock site (6 pitches). On July 11 all the team safely descended BC
19 Aug 2006 Nikolai Pimkin (St.Peterburg, Russia) has descended by ski via center of the North Face of Lenin Peak (7134 m / 23,406 ft), Zaalai range, North Pamir, Kyrgyzstan (via Arkin route).
See also on Mounain.RU:
New hard 8c/9a multipitch for Manolo
The times goes, but Mr. Maurizio Zanolla (aka Manolo) doesn't lose the taste
for great exploits! This time he bolted and freed a new hard multipitch on
the Vette Feltrine (Italy): 4 intense pitches (7c, 7b+, 8b, 8c/9a)! He named
it Solo per vecchi guerrieri (the translation is "only for old warriors").
Young World Cup. Result
Juniors Women :
Male A :
Female A :
Male B :
Female B :
Troll Wall-2006. Ñaught by a B.A.S.E. jumper, flying in ten meters
just wanted to apologize for disturbing the russian climbers in the troll wall earlier this summer. They looked a bit
lonely on that wall, so I figured they would be happy to get a visit.
Hans Holmefjord, Norway
Date update: 16.08.2006
ARCO ROCK LEGENDS AWARDS
The international ARCO ROCK LEGENDS AWARDS will be assigned on Friday 1 September during a gala evening celebration on the eve of the XX Rock Master.
The 20th edition of the Arco Rock Master competition, held every year in the town of Arco, Trentino (northern Italy) comes with a new twist this year: The Arco Rock Legends. During the event, a jury made up of representatives from 14 climbing magazines will the “best rock climber”, male or female. There are two categories at stake.
SALEWA ROCK AWARD 2006. The nominees (in alphabetical order)
Daniel Andrada (ESP)
Josune Bereziartu (ESP)
Yuji Hirayama (JPN)
Chris Sharma (USA)
Maurizio Manolo Zanolla (ITA)
LA SPORTIVA COMPETITION AWARD 2006
Flavio Crespi (ITA)
Angela Eiter (AUT)
Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
MAGAZINES INCLUDED IN THE ARCO ROCK LEGENDS JURY
|Íàçàä [1-30] [31-60] [61-90] [91-120] [121-150] [151-180] [181-210] [211-240] [241-270] [271-300] [301-330] [331-360] [361-390] [391-420] [421-450] [451-480] [481-510] [511-540] [541-570] [571-600] [601-630] [631-660] [661-690] [691-720] [721-750] [751-780] [781-810] [811-840] [841-870] [871-900] [901-930] [931-960] [961-990] [991-1020] [1021-1050] [1051-1060] Äàëåå|
All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.
In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004
Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.
After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.
Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.
For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.
Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.
us of good luck.
At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.
A good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.
Towards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.
Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.
The ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".
As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.
Now we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.
Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.
Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.
We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.
That is all there is to it for today.
And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.
We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.
There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.
Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.
In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.
Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.
For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/
Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.
All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.
We congratulate and wait for the winners!
We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.
Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.
We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.
Keep in touch with us!
In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.
1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
1 KOULIKOVA Natalia
Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
Master of Sport of International Grade
The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.
1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).
1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".
1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".
2002 - Everest via Northern col.
The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….
The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..
The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!
Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.
P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray
On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.
And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.
Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.
The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.
Ines's result is really unique.
The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"
Photo - www.bergsteigen.at
The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.
Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.
Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!
14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.
Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...
Simone and Piotr
It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.
Simone and Piotr
The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...
Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!
We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.
Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....
Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?
Tomorrow they will try to carry higher....
Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for
Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550
m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.
Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...
Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...
We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...
Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...
Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.
Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.
Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.
We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!
Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek
in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be
a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately,
although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on
the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire
and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue.
We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.
The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because
he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition
before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this
news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar
which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha
Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb
Translation by Jonathan Etes
Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.
Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.
any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the
success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
Simone, Darek, Piotr
It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.
The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com
Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.
Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch
See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de
UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004
Difficulty. The current rating
All results http://digitalrock.de
The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.
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