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World Youth Championship Beijing 25-28 August 2005. All results

347 sportsmen from 37 countries competed in World Youth Championship in Beijing.

The way things are:
Russia - 12 medals
Ukraine - 5 and France - 5 medals too
Austria - 3
The USA, Germany, Japan, Slovenia - on two.

Result card

Urgent radiogram. Jack Krivosheitsev has "fragged" "GULLIH", 8ń +

Excellent news from Crimea: the earlier unclimbed route "GULLIH", 8ń +, Red Stone, fall before Jack Krivosheitsev's legs (and hands).
See the details and photos later...

World Youth Championship Beijing (25-28 August 2005). Results.

Yesterday World Youth Rock-Climbing Championship in Beijing took its stock.

Russian children competed in Lead more than adequately. That fact warms the cockle of heart:
Yana Chereshneva (Krasnoyarsk region) - the second place.
Alexandra Malysheva (Saint Petersburg) - the second place.
Ivan Kaurov (Saint Petersburg) - the third place.

Speed. 9 medals are ours!

Male Juniors
1. Eugeny Vajtsehovsky (Ufa)
2. Alexander Kosterin (Ekaterinburg)
3. Eduard Ismagilov (Meleuz)

Female Juniors
2. Yana Malkova
3. Anna Galljamova (both Ekaterinburg)

Male youth A
2. Alexey Belchikov (Krasnoyarsk)

Female youth A.
1. Yana Chereshneva (Krasnoyarsk)

Male youth B.
1. Alexander Stepanov (Ufa)

Female youth B.
2. Ksenia Polehina (Krasnoyarsk).

The Winners in different age groups:

Female juniors: Mina Markovic, 1987, Slovenia
Female youth A: Caroline Januel, 1988ăđ, France
Female youth B: Charlotte Durif, 1990, France
Male juniors: Daniel Winkler, 1986, Switzerland
Male youth A: Magnus Midtboe, 1988, Norway
Male youth B: David Lama, 1990, Austria

Koskulak. Made by MAI-team :)

Mike Volkov, Nikolay Sinyushin, Andrey Mashenin, Alexander Vorob'ev, Igor Tarnovsky summited Koskulak on August, 26. The Koskulak's North Pidge was climbed for the first time- on the 8-th day of working on the route and the 3-rd day of working on the second rocky bastion.

Rustam Gelmanov. Hot news from the Crimea. Like a wild beast :) "Parallelny Chertopolokh (Parallel Thistle)", 8ń + (!). 8a on-sight and 8ń redpoint.

"I on-sighted Alexis, 8a. "Parallelny Mir (Parallel World), 8b +, and "Chertopolokh", 8b, - both lines third go. "Tri Klucha (Three keys)" Connection (Flatter-Chertopolokh), 8ń, - fourth go.
I try the Connection 8ń +.
Before that I sent "Mandrazh (Nervous trembling), 8ŕ Flatter, 8ŕ Fiesta, 8ŕ: Vremya Ch, 8ŕ, Tavarysh Nos (Mister Nose), 8ŕ +.

On August 27.08 in the morning I succeeded "Parallelny Chertopolokh (Parallel Thistle)", 8ń +.
Weather is good :)

Valery Shamalo and Alexey Gorbatenkov. Koskulak North Face.

Valery Shamalo reports the latest news from Kashgar:
"Alex and I arrived BC under Muztagh on August, 2. Next day we climbed up to 5500 m via the classical route.
On August 4-7 we went Kalaxong glacier up to 6100 m pass.

Further we made an ascent Koskulak North Face: on August 10 we reached the glacier 5100 m, on August 11 - began summit bid and got the summit on August 17 in the evening.

The third, fourth and fifth spendings the night were sedentary, we could hardly cook a hot meal.

Unequivocally, the route grade is 6Ŕ (Russian Grade).

We found out that we were not the first on Koskulak. Three guys from Moscow (including Dmitry Komarov) assert that they ascended Koskulak on a snow slope on foot in the same place, where muscovites Novikov & Co and the expedition led by Ershov.

Let's go further. After rest in BC we on August 21 we came on pass 6100m and ascended Muztagh Ata via Southern ridge through Kalaxong pass then. I recon we first opened this route 5B-graded. At the summit we were on 24.08 in the afternoon.

Very sad news. Climbing classical route an old couple from Germany got frost bitten deadly and died having lost the way.

And now we are in Kashgar still. It seems it will be difficult to get out of here. So, we won't be at home soon.
Our greetings to everybody! "

K2 Expedition of the combined team of Kazakhstan is bollixed! High-altitude burglars, hang it!

K2 Expedition of the combined team of Kazakhstan is bollixed! High-altitude burglars, hang it!

K2 Expedition of the combined team of Kazakhstan is bollixed. On August 24 at their arrival in ABC the guys found out that high-altitude burglars had stolen all their gear, including crampons, harnesses etc...

The climbers had to descend to base camp. Zhumaev Maxut and Pivtsov Vasily will retrieve camps I and II without basic climbing equipment.

It's the sad but nude fact: the expedition is broken because of people cashing in on another man's preserves.

The message from the Forum Mountain.RU

K2 Expedition of the combined team of Kazakhstan
July- August 2005

The Kazakh Army' team's members
Maxut Zhumaev, leader,
Vasily Pivtsov,
Damir Molgachev,
Sergey Brodsky,
Ervand Iljinsky, team's coach
This expedition is a stage of the Project of the national team of Kazakhstan to summit all fourteen "eight-thousand" mountains and to time the event to coincide with the fifteenth anniversary of Kazakhstan independence from the Soviet Union, coming up in December 2006.

Expedition current events

11.07.05. The team arrived to Islamabad.
14.07.05. The team headed to Skardu, where Gia Tortladze will join them.
17.07.05. Yesterday Vasily Pivtsov, Sergey Brodsky and Damir Molgachev arrived to Skardu. Maxut Zhumaev stays in Islamabad to take part in briefing.
01.08.05. The team sorted out all the problems and got to BC.
03.08.05. Camp I (5850m). Not bad weather.
04.08.05. Camp II (6350m). Good weather.
05.08.05. The team is climbing up to Camp III. Clouds, wind, snow.
06.08.05. Camp III (7500m).
08.08.05. Descent to BC. Everything is OK.
09.08.05. A rest-day in BC after hard acclimatization ascent. The team decided to climb according a planned schedule not looking about the weather forecasts. Preparations for the summit push.
11.08.05. Summit push starts. Camp I. The light thickens.
12.08.05. Camp II. It's warm, but the wind is strong.
13.08.05. Camp III. The weather is stable and not windy.
14.08.05. Camp IV. The team plans to start summit bid at midnight.
17.08.05. The team descended to base camp at 9.30 pm local time. They had to break trail by turns and finally had to turn back at 8500m and were cut off from communication for some days due to technical problems charging their Thuraya batteries.
23.08.05. After some days of rest and revival the team starts their second attempt to conquer K2. The weather is stable while.
24.08.05. That's over. At their arrival in ABC the guys found out, that high-altitude burglars had stolen all their gear and the whole K2 Expedition of the combined team of Kazakhstan was bollixed. The climbers had to descend to base camp. Zhumaev Maxut and Pivtsov Vasily will retrieve camps I and II without basic climbing equipment.
It's the sad but nude fact: the expedition is broken because of people cashing in on another man's preserves.
26.08.05. Bad weather on Ę2. Maxut and Vasily were going to leave BC for retrieving CI and CII but weather does not allow to do that. At present time all climbers are in base camp.




18th August 2005 - Baltar Glacier

Friend of clouds,/fellow of the lightning,/son of the earth,/where is your house?/ A field of roses/ yellow maize/ a snowy mount/ a gravel bed/ an audacious female/ the word is silence.

I have not found better than these buried rhymes to begin the last message that I will reach to you from the Baltar Glacier. Soon we will leave again to Karimabad, from where we will be able to think with more separation a report of our shipment. Now, instead, dipped between action and contemplation, we are divided, or better I am divided, between the word and the silence. In the middle there is a world that would want itself to be said. There is the exploration and the communication. Two aspects of the same truth that many times are not agree, because who explores does not know or want to communicate and who communicates does not know or want to explore. And so I have thought, in order to make to emerge this variety, the word on silence, to tell something about my friends. They are also divided between exploration and communication and their painting could be not only the mirror of their mountains, hurt or dreammed, but also of our promises. Shortly, turning my look on the left, it is easy for me to begin from who is engaged in one extraordinary climb. A snow line embedded in a dihedron of cliff, that it falls from 6000 to 5000 meters is receiving the action of Renzo Corona from Primiero, and Carlos Buhler, american from Montana. Renzo is a pure force of the nature. So powerful and so strongl and sure that sometimes he scares. His behaviour is good and sweet. It is pleasant to be with him. But he instead withdraws. He starts along his path and sometimes he does not communicate. He does. Carlos, on the other part, one of the maximum contemporary himalayst people, astonishes for its unparalleled patience and cure. He lives in an expanded time. The wait and the preparation of every gesture, from the food to the word, are his winning crews. He is like a mechanism that has long times of loads and unfathomable resistance. If Renzo and Carlos shall do the route in which they are engage, it will be a beautiful ascension, that it will remain not only in their personal history. If I watch instead to right, it has remained in my sight the great line always gone up from Renzo with the native of Bergamo Ivo Ferrari on a vertical impulsive snow wall that comes out to 6250 m. Ivo is one of the stranger persons that I met mine in my life. He haven’t medium-wave, but only ups and downs , that he uninterruptedly and without reservoirs communicates to the external world. He also is an impetuous force of the nature, but not pure, a force that always discusses with its limit. Then, to guide the people from Vicenza, there is Mirco Scarso, president of the CAI of Montecchio, the more resistant and sincere mountain climber who I know. He writes a diary day by day. Goodness knows what is written. If you want to catch up a objective and you have need someone that strikes you a trace, also moral, let you entrust yourselves to Mirco, my companion for excellence. With Michele Romio, the youngest of the group, we climbed an incredible "north face" for continuity and dangers. The true enterprise he has made it in skies. Left sick from the BC, he arrived to 5000 m of the high camp, after crossing kilometers of unstable stones and snows. With all the material on his shoulder for the camp. During the night he didn’t sleep and the day after he finished the wall with us, while his eyes communicated suffering, tenacity and fear also. The healthy fear that for us mountain climbers are an option. And while we caught up the crest of the Daryio Sar for a spur on the left Ivo, solo, turned to right of the wall in order to go directly to the return. An other great raid from the Red Primula (or Blond) of the Dolomiti. Within of him the memory of his brother, Dario, and our powerful beloved Mass (note: Mass is, or better was, Lorenzo Massarotto, a famous dolomitian climber died during an ascension few days before the beginning of Rakaposhi expedition). Finally ours two fotoreporters. Crista-Lee Mitchell, from Canada, pregnant, after the Rakaposhi left to us her sweet smile and her skillful indiscretion in picking that a few of us would have the courage to pick in foreign land. AlessandroPianalto from Vicenza is instead collected in the formula "he sees what the other people does not see". And here to the BC nobody has doubts in purpose. The images that he captured from the Baltar Glacier will be the bread for the mountaineering of the future and, I believe, masterpieces of the artistic photography of landscape. (the BBC has announced that the next year will be in the Baltar Glacier).

About me, demanding as I am on the communication inter nos, I do not find way better for give appointment to you to Karimabad that fishing, apparently also in closing, other buried rhymes:
I am the son of the earth/ moved by the wind/ in order to contrast the time/ and to return/ within.

Periods of the maximum beautiful time of two days has not allowed to approach too much to the two higher mountains of the earth not still climbed, Batura III and II. In these last days we are searching carefully the possibilities of climb from the Baltar Glacier.

Tomaz Humar Back At Home


All photos (number: 4)


106th August 2005 - Baltar Glacier, 4100 m.

If I had to find a way in order to open the scene of a show that represents our adventure, I would begin therefore, in the darkness of the hall it, with the index of the actor suddenly illuminated and aimed against the attention of the public: "Well, you believe is crazy a father who abandons a son to go to climb a mountain twenty thousand feet over the sea". I do not dare to think, or to reveal, what remains but to that first and tremendous hint I would answer yes. That’s so. The father who abandons a son, or sons, expecially nuch young, in order to climb one unknown mountain far days and days from house, with relative risks and dangers, is some crazy. It is this to leave to associate to an excess of pathos, or a defect of equilibrium. The important is to acknowledge in this particular shape of anomaly made of men, to carry on the enormous hard works for the freedom. Or vainglory. Far from house, far from the sons. Here, to the new BC, in the remotest Baltar Glacier, the exploration proceeds on/off. Not only the environmental conditions, hard and beyond our power, are our adversaries, but also the subjective conditions. Too far from the world, often shutted in our irreducible personalities, homesick attacks us and our thought flies towards house, towards our children, ours wives and our beloveds. Nothing of pathetic in that one, but the raw and wonderful truth of our weakness. Raw because we must resist, wonderful because it puts together our limits. When, in the normal life, we become participates of our limits? And here, in the Baltar Glacier, the possibilities are infinitive. We have made I consult between the guru of world-wide alpine exploration. By means of Carlos Buhler, via satellitare, we heard the British Stephan Venables, then we intercrossed the news with our German exploratory friends, finally, we have asked information firsthand to the Italian the Simone Moro. There is no doubt, although difficult to catch up because geographically remote and culturally closed, the Baltar Glacier is a vertical paradise of the future.

11th of August. Renzo Corona and Ivo Ferrari opened a great line of 1200 meters in pure alpine style on a neverclimbed top of 6000 meters. The day after a snow storm rejects Alberto Peruffo, Carlos Buhler, Mirco Scarso and Michele Romio in the attempt to catch up an other great inviolate top.

Alberto Peruffo

More details


Digged roads for too to make places
"Is this the space that remains to us to explore" it was our last question. Not. The freedom is the possibility to leave a dream, a objective, when it is impracticable, to chase an other one. And the exploratories are provident dreamers. They live in the unknown. Every step of their is guided from a light. A light without precise direction, only one voice. The light of the Rakaposhi plan has thousand directions, clear and sure distributions, blind alleys, impractible glaciers and unexpected mountains. At least at first. That one of the departure, in which we depart towards a determined place and then to the end we land goodness knows where. And therefore, after to have certified that the north-west spur of the Rakaposhi is impractible until the day in which the natural riduction of the glacier will have made its course and freed its rocked base, gently and slowly rising (perhaps after two years), so, from the top of the glaciers of our first mountain we have watched to northen lands, where three twin mountains and sisters of our mountain were predisposed to capture the provident light of our exploratory plan. Let us remember, ours is a shipment, in the deep sense of the term, an ex-pedition, to put the foot outside not only from our houses and our habits, but also from our ambitions and our preconstituted roads. Digged roads for too to make places is the title it of one of the collections of beautiful poems from Lawrence Ferlinghetti. Digged roads for disperse places. And if the roads were broken off and the bridges lands of true landing place the ex-pedition is to ship on the unknown ocean in order to be shipwrecked in a possibility island. Here is therefore to follow that small opening of light that oriented towards the three sisters, the great Batura mountains, and after four days of debilitating way over colossal moraines of landing on a encircled green island from vertical walls adorned from eternal glaciers. We are on the Baltar Glacier, between the most remote valleys of the Karakoram. Over our head, to north, the highest mountain of the earth still to climb. In front of us, mount chains to explore in order to continue to put the foot outside of us in a second moment, within of us. To exit for re-entering. To breathe the scent of unknown in order to better tappreciate the known one. To show oneself to the limit in order to understand the reasons and the ways of our freedom. One thing is sure. From this green island to 4000 meters where we shipwrecked, much more lucky people than a Robinson Crosué, we will bring back to house images and feelings to highest upgrade them for the second part of our plan. One show. Under all the aspects. Like the word that better means the place from which I am writing. Or like the title that better epresents our unrepeatbile adventure: "Twenty thousand feet over the sea".

Alberto Peruffo

More details

Images courtesy of Simone Moro

All photos (number: 5)

Date update: 17.08.2005

During more than a week that we turn like crazy under the gigantic north-west face of Rakaposhi. We explored three glacial basins covering improbable unevennesses in order to pass from one to the other and to hope, arrived a lot up, to find the door of access to the wonders of the wall north and to its indecipherable ice architectures. But nothing. "the Bastiani fortress of my dreams resists to sweet flatteries, that they besiege it like worthy violences of Tamerlano." The glacier seen of forehead to our camp base it never does not stop of push out its irreversible instability, detaching ice castles that fall roaring in front of our eyes. Like saying that the ancient door of access to the spur now is worned out and behind its shoulders there is a chaotic and impraticabile ice maze, alive. Much alive and walking, than its stone bones emerge where a time ago it was ice meat. More to the west the glacier is far away how much the hard work of our legs could not more supporte after to have it one single treaded on time. And to the here nothing good.. The doors are shutted by a rock saddleback that it would make you to fall without breath in the throat of deep dangerous crevasses, too much far corridors from our mind. To east, instead, the glacier of Ghulmet offered to us a small opening, having left us to go up in order nearly 1500 meters of unevenness, through channels of cliffs and grass until steep snowy slides. A long devious, nearly a passage to north - west, projected us on one perfect snowy back, door of access to the terrible northen wall. Terrible because beautiful, beautiful because untouchable. Arrived to 4800 meters, put the camp, we have seen that that we did not imagine. The breath of avalanches, and the indefensible lightness of who has planned this mount. Nearly it was a god that it does not want to communicate with the men. We shut ourselves in ours stretches. Here, to the camp base, the night it makes warm too much. Every day is disturbed, within and outside of us, “we are caught between the rock and an hard place”. We are between the anvil and the hammer. "Is this one the space that remains to us to explore" we are wondering every rising of new sun.

Fog obstructed helicopters
9.8.05 16:11 CET
As it was promised - as soon as the weather improved, 3 helicopters arrived to base camp. Two LAMA helicopters and a fuel carrier.

The face of the mountain was still covered by a thick cloud, and Tomaž reported that it is still snowing and he sees no signs of improvement. Six expedition members had about an hour to exchange information - to have a look at the photos of the wall taken by Aleš 2 days ago and to come to a conclusion " the rercue will be difficult, but is possible!" Preparations continued with the preparation of ropes and weights, analysis of day and night temperatures around Tomaž (from-5 to -7 degrees C), the type of clothes he is wearing (red colour), if he can use something to flag or signal the helicopters (he can with the red bivouac bag), if he speaks english (speaks well), if he's fit enough to hook himself on to the ropes (yes) and if he has the karabiners (yes) ...
Then followed the synchronization of frequencies, which was Tomaž's primary concern - communication is of vital importance in a rescue mission and we managed to adjust the stations so Tomaž could communicate with the pilots.
Tomaž notified us, at about 15:30, that there is a clearing just over his position, that he can see the ridge to the left of him, that it stopped snowing and that the wind is gone. The crew then ran towards the helicopters - a few last agreements of what signs to use were made - the most important one - thumbs up - meaning everything is O.K.
And then they took off - one by one in a five minutes gap .... the upper part of the mountain face was slowly opening up, though from the right side a new cloud covered the mountain. We could hear via our station that the pilots have made contact with Tomaž. But when the LAMAs reached Tomaž's altitude - we could only see them as small dots - the fog obstructed them.
They tried to approach the wall at about 6000m but have then decided to postpone the rescue to tomorrow, when the weather forecast promises clear skies. If the weather improves, we need to call the pilots at 04:30 so they can reach base camp by 05:00.
It's important that today's attempt proved the communication between Tomaž and the pilots can be established and is working, and that the experienced pilots could inspect the terrain and the location - so everything is ready for tomorrow's renewed attempt. Only the weather has to stay as it is - at the moment the whole face of the mountain is predominately visible.

Tomaž Humar is rescued!
10.8.05 06:12 CET
Two Pakistani army helicopters rescued Tomaž Humar from the Rupal wall in the early morning hours, where he had been trapped for six days. Tomaž is currently at base camp in care of doctor Anda. He is a bit frozen up but other than that he seems to be out of danger.

The rescue mission was outstanding. Tomaž was rescued with a rope on which he hung all the way to touch down at base camp. As Maja told us, doctor Anda examined him immediately after landing. Tomaž’s hands and legs have reddened, however, there seems to be nothing critical. He is able to walk and has decided to remain at base camp for a while. He feels he does not need to be admitted to the hospital in Islamabad.

After being trapped on a small shelf in the wall for six days with nothing more than a rope and an ice screw, Tomaž is exhausted, especially because he had no food in the last few days.

All photos (number: 2)


Tomaž hasn't called us yet...
Tomaž only has 4 batteries left - his last - therefore we haven't heard from him since 10.p.m yesterday. We read him some encouraging E-mails, all telling him to hang in there.

It has been raining all night in the base camp and snowing above 5000 meters. Because of the cloud we can only see the foothill of the mountain, above that, only fog. Today the helicopter can't get of the ground - the weather is just too bad.

From time to tome we try calling Tomaž - with his old batteries he can hear us, but we can't hear him. We tell him he should stay warm and move as much as moving is possible in a such little hole, he is in.

We heard from Tomaž!!!
Tomaž told us he is very cold, that he is wet and afraid of frostbite. Doctor Anda instructed him to take some Aspirin and Adelat to try to move as much as possible and melt some snow for some warm liquid. We think he had to dig to keep his bivouac clean all night because it was snowing very hard. In the morning we presume, he then fell asleep. We read him the e-mails of his brothers and told him about the updates on the rescue. We are still hoping for some good weather today.

All photos (number: 3)



The BC of the Rakaposhi is a hung horizontal balcony to the leaves of the gigantic moraine. A great green carpet colonized from dark pines.
Beyond the leaves, a space of one hundred meters falls to the feet of one frightful glacier. A Perito Moreno that has at his base not soft water but noisy and uncontrollable stone.
We decreased ourselves in order to explore the right part of the glacier, surer but labirintic. Small men dispersed in an ice sea.
At the moment, only to touch the base of the spur seems an enterprise. As soon as possible, we will tell some.

About expedition

Serre Che. Sandrin Levet&Patxi Usobiaga. Results.


1 LEVET Sandrine FRA
3 EITER Angela AUT
4 EYER Alexandra SUI
9 GROS Natalia SLO
10 SAURWEIN Katharina AUT
11 CUFAR Martina SLO
11 JANUEL Caroline FRA
11 CONAN Fanny FRA
15 FRANKO Luajia SLO
16 YAEMURD Ekaterina RUS
17 CHEVRIER Anne Laure FRA
19 MARTIN Delphine FRA

2 CHABOT Alexandre FRA
7 DROETTO Fabrizio ITA
12 BECAN Klemen SLO
13 MILLET Sylvain FRA
15 CRESPI Flavio ITA
16 LEGRAND Yannick FRA
18 DUGIT Fabien FRA
20 CAUDE David FRA
24 SOVA Matej SLO
25 DUGIT Stephane FRA
26 GERLAND Bastien FRA
29 MUNOZ Dimitry FRA


All photos (number: 3)


The 19th Rock Master, the trophy for the climbing champions, takes place on 3-4/09/2005 at Arco (Trentino, N. Italy). This edition begins with a special preview: a celebration on Friday 2 September of the 20th anniversary of climbing competitions at Arco. A book and a film retrace the various stages of the most noble competition in the world.

Saturday 3 and Sunday 4 September 2005 at Arco (Trentino, N. Italy) the best climbers in the world will contend for the 19th Rock Master trophy, the most sought-after and prestigious competition in the history of sports climbing. As always these will be two days of great climbing reserved for the best only and the enthusiastic spectators. Rock Master is a true sporting festival: only the best in the world take part, only the greatest of every era have won the title. And it has always been this way, since the very beginning which coincides perfectly with the history of sports climbing competitions. For it is exactly here, on the shores of Lake Garda, that this young sport made its first tentative steps. It is because of this that Rock Master is the most noble, historically important and crowd teasing competition of all. It's true passion that rekindles every year since 1987. And this passion will truly enthuse and excite the spectators in Arco’s Climbing Stadium.

2005 will be a special edition: the celebration of the 20th anniversary of climbing competitions at Arco. Because in 1986 the second edition of Sport Roccia, a competition twinned with Bardonecchia, was held on the Monte Colodri rock face. Just one year later in 1987 Arco invented Rock Master, the competition reserved for the best climbers in the world. Twenty years have passed since a group of friends and Arco town councillors decided to start this great adventure: no other climbing competition can boast such long and successful tradition. A book and film recounting this story have been published and will be presented on Friday 2 September at the Arco town casino. The champions and protagonists of these two climbing decades will attend the evening’s presentation.

As always the top ten in the world ranking are invited to Rock Master and these can be joined by four wild cards chosen by the organisation. The current world champions Angela Eiter and Tomasz Mrazek will take part, as will Alexander Chabot from France, winner of the last three editions, the Spaniards Ramon Julien Puigblanque and Patxi Usobiaga, Sandrine Levet from France, Alexandra Eyer from Switzerland, but above all the current World Cup leader Flavio Crespi from Italy and the Italian champion Jenny Lavarda. As tradition has it, the classic Rock Master difficulty comeptition will be joined by the Sint Roc Boulder Contest, the thrilling knock-out confrontation for the strongest specialists of short and intense boulder problems. This will be followed by the Speed competition, or rather the competition for the sprinters in search of new records on the great Climbing Stadium wall in Arco. The event will be completed with Sunday’s fantastic Ennio Lattisi Trophy, the duel in which the top four Rock Master athletes compete on two identical and parrallel routes.

Saturday 3 and Sunday 4 will be a 48-hour great climbing immersion!
All info on

ASSOCIAZIONE ROCK MASTER C.P. 60 38062 ARCO TN - TEL 0464 516830 - FAX 0464 517691
Press office: Vinicio Stefanello Tel. +39 049 8808423 -


Rock Master timeline

Patxi Usobiaga - the champion of Spain

On his road from Chamonix to Innsbruck Patxi Usobiaga ped in home for a while and at odd moments won a Cup of Spain

Ę2 West Face.

On July, 10 Victor Kozlov called:
yesterday weather was bad all of us were staying in tents. Today since the morning the team displaced a tent at 5600. Having ascended at 5800, we took some photos. Tomorrow we will try to take photos of the Wall's side-face.

Alexander Ruchkin, the fearless hero - scout. Masherbrum North-East Face, first impressions:

Once upon a time in June in a very distant land, Godforsaken kingdom, somewhere in Pakistan there lived our reconnaissance of peak Masherbrum detachment.
And it was found out that its very beautiful and difficult northeast wall is still unclimbed for reasons undefined. On incomplete recce there was only one successful ascent from this side. But there is not any attempt to climb the Wall we are interested in!

The top part of the wall is visible from Baltoro glacier: from the caravan track heading to well-known "8-thousand" mountains: Ę2, Gasherbrum, Broad Peak. The reconnaissance detachment got almost under the wall at 4550m, the beginning of the route is roughly at 4700m, summit- 7821m. This implies overall altitude difference 3 km, that we can divide into three parts of about 1 km every one. The top part - yellow vertical strong granite rocks, average one - black rocks of schist of about and more 70 degrees, and the bottom part - an abrupt snow-ice slope with hanging seracs that we will have to run very quickly.
Here is such reconnaissance.

09.07 Simone. Batokshi
Simone Moro. Batura II

Expedition Finished.....!!!
In the day we summited Batokschi Peak 6050 after 3 days of Alpine style climb without any rope during all difficult and dangerous climb.... we began the long descent along a different and unknown route ... We climbed down for long time in Piolet Traction on a delicate and dangerous ice and snow. Some vertical sections requested us the maximum concentration. The high danger of avalanche obliged us to be fast, extremely fast, but the difficulties were always high...

Unfortunately Joby was behind me and he did his best to be efficient and concentrate as he climbed down well but taking his time. Waiting for him under seracs and cornice would have been suicide...

I was in base camp drinking cold juice and doing a sat phone call when Joby called me on the radio.
" Simone... I've been hit by an avalanche...I survived as a miracle but... I think I broke my ankle and hip and am seriously injured.... "
It took me some seconds to realize the meaning of those words...

I immediately started the rescue effort, mostly realized from Didar (the cook) and with help from Karim (cook assistant) and me. During the long and painful (for Joby) walk down on the moraine till base camp, I did some sat phone calls to our agency, Adventure Tour Pakistan, to request a helicopter evacuation the day after. Today at 12:20 an army helicopter arrived at base camp and took Joby and me to Gilgit... Joby has some difficulties and pain to move the leg and walk but the first medical control said that probably nothing is broken but he has to rest and recover some weeks as a ankle and hip traumas.

The expedition is finished in advance, with 2 summit reached and one new route, but our principal aim is failed due the bad luck. We are happy because all that is missing is the sport result, Batura 2, but not the life of someone...

I would like to thank Ashraf Aman and his staff Essar and Neiknam for the strong and fast "diplomatic" effort to obtain the military helicopter for us. Unique and great job!!!!
Thanks to God for the epilogue of the accident and the facts.....

Today we get up at 4 o’clock. So we found cold temperatures and avoid to break in the deep snow till our waist, like yesterday. The snow conditions we found was good, but we also found high climbing difficulties, this was a surprise for us. The ridge was steep and airy and we had to climb without ropes, because it was not possible to make an acceptable security. Joby and I were still in contact with our radios and continue to remember each other to be concentrated, because it was not aloud to make errors…. To go back was impossible, because of the high the difficulties, so the only possible way was to go up.

Finally at 1 p.m. we found a place for our camp 2. In 40 minutes we set the camp at 5900 meters protected by one big serac. We are now close to the Batokschi Peak. Near the ridge we found also some very old fixropes, hold by some iron carabiners, but obviously it was not advisable to use them.

Result after 2 days: near then 2000 meters climbed in alpinstile without ropes.

Ciao till tomorrow
Simone and Joby

All photos (number: 4)

K2 West Face

On July, 7, Victor Kozlov reports from base camp:
Today since the morning weather is stable: the sky is clouded but it isn't snowing any more. The guys left base camp in the morning and climbed up to Japanese camp site where a depot had been left earlier. They set the tent there and during afternoon climbed upper and reached the foot of the Wall at 5600 m where the ABC was planned to be install in the distance of 500-600 m from the Wall. The place for camp seems safe: ice, snow, absence of stones.

The guys came under the Wall and then returned back to Japanese camp site at 5300m. Tomorrow they are going to displace the tent at 5600 to begin observing the Wall for the next 5-6 days.

First impressions: the Wall knocks eyes out. It's just for Russians! Only a pass behind it separates the area from China.

K2 West Face

July, 6
Victor Kozlov: Weather is completely worthless. All climbers are staying in camp.

05.07 Batokschi peak and Batura in clouds
Simone Moro. Batura II

Finally we did start! Today at 5 a.m. we started from base camp at 4100 m. We began with the German route from 2002, but after some hours we crossed to the west ridge, because we didn't like the seracs above us. The ridge seems more save, but it was steep and we find hard work in snow till our waist. At 1:30 p.m. we found a place for our tend, protected by one stone pillar. We set our camp 1 at 5170 meters, after 7 hours of hard work in deep snow with heavy rucksacks. Tomorrow we will try to continue, if the snow is not to deep…
Ciao till tomorrow
Follow us
Simone and Joby

Masherbrum, 7821m
Parteigenosses Odintsov and Ruchkin have gone back to native land after their reconnoitering. "The Challenge Mountain!"

Alexander Ruchkin: "Our greetings to everybody!
We have just arrived.
The Mountain is just super.
You can see only a part of the Wall - overall 3km!"

K2 West Face

On July, 5 Victor Kozlov called from K2 base camp (under the classical route):

on July, 2-3-4 we stayed at the base camp because of very bad weather. Today it's snowing too, but in the morning we caught the weather window and the guys went again up to the Japanese camp to take there some more gear. There are a lot of crevasses on the glacier, but they are not too deep. We are on a half way up to the foot of the West Face and if the weather allows tomorrow the guys Shabalin, Elagin and Kuznetsov will trek up to beginning of the Wall and stay there for 6 days.

Salavat Rakhmetov
Russian seasons in Munich.
UIAA World Rock-climbing Championship, Munich (Germany), 1-5 July 2005
Let bourgeois make nose swell: the Russians blaze up as well (c)!
Salavat Rakhmetov and Olga Shalagina - are the champions in bouldering! Hip hip hurrah, comrades!


Salavat Rakhmetov and Olga Shalagina - are the champions in bouldering! The Ukrainian climber Olga won her first World Championship. Julia Abramchuk - is the second ... Olga Bibik - the sixth.

1.Salavat Rakhmetov RUS
2.Kilian Fischhuber AUT
3.Gerome Pouvreau FRA
4.Serik Kazbekov UKR
5.Nalle Hukkataival FIN
6.Daniel Dulac FRA
7.Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS
8.Cedric Lachat SUI
9.Tomas Mrazek CZE
10.Jerome Meyer FRA
11.Keita Mogaki JPN
12.Jorg Verhoeven NED

Result card

1.Olha Shalagina UKR
2.Ioulia Abramtchouk RUS
3.Vera Kotasova CZE
4.Renata Piszczek POL
5.Anna Stohr AUT
6.Olga Bibik RUS
7.Tatiana Tarassova RUS
8.Venera Chereshneva RUS

9.Esther Cruz ESP
10.Corinne Theroux FRA
11.Elizabeth Asher USA
12.Ja-In Kim KOR
13.Yana Chereshneva RUS

Result card



Practically without surprises: Eiter- Mrazek.

Three TOPs at the Final!
The guys decided not to have a dust-up and in the result took places in accordance with any findings of the semifinal.
Ramon Julian Puigblanque was late in the store for a pair of hours and became only the tenth.

1. Tomas MRAZEK, CZE
3. Alexandre CHABOT, FRA



Result card

Some changes in the habitual female three of leaders. The American Emili Harrington and the Japanese Akiyo Noguchi squeezed in rather dense company of the leaders, and took the second and the third places accordingly. Olga Shalagina is the fourth - the heartwarming event.

1. Angela EITER, AUT
6. Sandrine LEVET, FRA

Result card

Speed. Men.
Speed. Women.

05.07.Simone and joby summit Ya Chhish 5130 m
Simone Moro. Batura II
Joby and Simone on summit of Ya Chhish (climbed the 2nd time!)

Today again bad weather but I and Joby didn't want to take another rest day at Base camp. So we got up at 7:00 a.m. and at 8:05 a.m. we started to attempt the summit of Ya Chhish 5130 meter. It is not an easy mountain and it's better to take care especially on the final ridge. It had been climbed only one time on the 23rd May 1976 from 2 east Germany climbers. They climbed Ya Chhish to make acclimatisation before attempting and reaching Batura I (at that time the highest unclimbed peak of the world). After 29 years at 11:30 Joby and I climbed the mountain again via the east face and the delicate final ridge. We also climbed that summit to get acclimatisation before attempting the highest unclimbed mountain of the world in 2005....
We remained 30 minutes up there with light clothes even the weather was bad, but no wind and no cold. At 2:30 p.m. we were in base camp eating tortellini, salame, french frites, spaghetti alla bolognese and at the end a good Italian coffee.
Tomorrow the weather should be again bad and we want to stay here to take rest and the day after we will start for our climb to Batura II throw Batokshi Peak.
Simone and Joby

All news of the expeditions

All photos (number: 1)

04.07 Bouldering
Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II

Again bad weather.... Also last night was snowing but thanks to the good temperature it melted everything here in base camp. In this moment that I'm writing the weather is again bad but today we get some hours of good conditions and I had fun, doing some bouldering and Joby took footage and photos . This is one of the systems to avoid to be boring and get training...

All news of the expeditions

All photos (number: 2)

Today, on 25 February Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) yearly award will be presented in Grenoble, France.

All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.

In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody!
Now it's 5 am on local time. We had to cease efforts to ascend Fitz Roy because of an objective danger of the route: a huge ice-fall hangs over the couloir and it's constantly under ice bombardment. We decided to change our plans and to climb Saint Exupery peak (2558m). We are going to start, summit and descend this day. The weather forecast is good for the first half of the day, but for the second is bad. We will try to work faster. Wish us good luck.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody.
Yesterday we descended in Chalten and in the very nick of time - got right into a global climbing party. The party was terrific and we had a great time. As always, Russian songs headed the bill. Alexander's singing already became a legend in Chalten. People recognize him in the street and almost nearly ask for an autograph.

Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UĘ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.

After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.

Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.

For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.

Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.

Wish us of good luck.
Leonid, Alexander, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi! Having climbed the Mountain for two days we had to descend yesterday. We were too close to summit but got into a violent icefall right under the summit mushroom. Thank Heaven we are safe and sound but it was too dangerous there and decided to stop climbing and descend. Now we have a rest. We'll inform you about our further plans.
That's all on for today. Take care.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi everybody!
Yesterday we descended to El Chalten. Three days ago we hired horses and moved our base camp (150 kg!) in Camp-Bridwell. Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre is a very cosy camping area embowered in trees. A stunning view at Cerro Torre massif opens from there. There are a lot of aspiring Cerro Torre climbers and trekkers living there now. Weather was wonderful. However toward evening surprisingly beautiful clouds of fantastic colors and shapes reminding UFOs appeared in the sky. It's the typical sign of an impending storm.

At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.

Dean PotterA good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.

Tomas HuberTowards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.

Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.

Austrians & SashaThe ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".

As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.

Cerro Torre at dawnNow we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.

Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.

Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.

We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Alexander, Leonid, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody. Today we finally climbed up to Norwegian camp site. It took us rather much time.
People say that there is a bad weather forecast for the day after tomorrow and we do not know really what to do. We need two days to try for the summit.

Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Our greetings to everybody! Yesterday we reached Base Camp and homed in it. We found a lot of people there. Thomas Huber told us about his brother Alex Huber that had to left home because had wounded his eye (at least the story runs that). Weather has been standing magnificent for three days, and it hurts us that we arrived so late. We are afraid, that good weather will not hold for some days more and we will not have time to ascend. Tomorrow we are going to climb up to Norwegian camp site and , the day after tomorrow we plan to get the Col and if the weather is good we will make a summit push the next day.

That is all there is to it for today.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
We flied almost lost-free. Only two backpacks with our belongings, sleeping bags, etc. and a tent were lost en route. But as people say money makes the mare go and we are going to buy needed gear in El Calafate where we will take off tomorrow.

And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.

We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

Things are shaking down rapidly. They found Olga's backpack and delivered it. In an hour our plane departs to El Calafate. Our greetings to everybody.

Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.

As expected we bought all needed things in El Calafate. You can't pick and choose here because practically all the things sold there are made by one local company...

There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.

Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.

Alxander, Leonid, Olga.


 Ines PapertHarald Berger

Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Ice Boulder Champions

In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.

Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit:


The team successfully summited on January 29!
On January 29 the guys woke up early in the morning (4 a.m.) and started their summit bid. After they climbed the summit bastion and narrow rocky ridge, all the team reached the Kodar's summit at 9.00. Temperature was negative 43, but weather was breathless. That day all of them safe and sound descended to the base camp toward evening.

Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.

All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.

We congratulate and wait for the winners!

We have already climbed a half of the route. We abide by the schedule. On January 24 we made 3 pitches, it's a record for the present time. Yesterday we made only one pitch. Today two-man team of Dmitrienko and Tsyganov is next in turn to fix the rope on the route. In total, since 19 of January we made 13 pitches - it's approximately a half of the route. Yesterday the team in its full complement took off and now is making themselves at home in a tent settled in a small rocky niche that was found in the area of 12-th pitch.

We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.

Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.

We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.

Keep in touch with us!

For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. In total 9 pitches are climbed. Firm granite, cold, ice-covered rocks. Today Prokof'ev and Belyanin are working. They have to find a convenient site for the first hanging camp. Temperature is negative 30.

New world champions in ice-climbing. January, 21-22, The 2nd World Championships for Difficulty- and Speed Ice Climbing and the 1st Swiss Ice Climbing Masters in Difficulty and Speed, Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.


Difficulty. Men

1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
2 ANTHAMATTEN Simon (Switzerland)
3 LEICHTFRIED Albert (Austria)

4 BENDLER Markus (Austria)
5 ANTHAMATTEN Samuel (Switzerland)
6 WANDELER Simon (Switzerland)
7 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
8 ODERMATT Urs (Switzerland)

Difficulty. Women

1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
2 PAPERT Ines (Germany)
3 MAUREAU Stephanie (France)

4 BUCHMANN Kirsten (Germany)
5 TORRETTA Anna (Italy)
6 EYER Alexandra (Switzerland)
7 FILIPPOVA Maryam (Russia)
8 SHABALINA Maria (Russia)

Speed. Men

1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
2 FAYZULLIN Igor (Russia)
3 CHVED Nikolai (Russia)

4 HOFER Lars (Switzerland)

Speed. Women

1 KOULIKOVA Natalia Russia
2 OLEINIKOVA Joulia Russia
3 TORRETTA Anna Italy

Photo: Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,

On Saturday January, 22, Sergey Borisov was killed in an automobile accident in Ekaterinburg. I do not know, what I can add any more. Suddenly I realized that I have nothing to say if it happens to my friends... because it is not right..

Sergey Borisov

Master of Sport of International Grade
For a long time he was the captain of Sport Club of Army of Ural military region.
He became four times champion of USSR, twice champion of Russia, numerous prize-winner of different national championships.

The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.

1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6Ŕ).

1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".

1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".

2002 - Everest via Northern col.

2004 - Jannu North Face, summiter


Everything is turning out well. We dug a cave and sorted out the problem of fire wood. Three two-man teams (Prokofiev-Belyaev, Dmitrienko-Tsyganov, Tsygankov - Cherezov) worked alternating on the route for 3 days and made 7 pitches. It became warmer a little, -20, snowfalls. The Wall is ice- and snow-covered.

It's snowing, temperature is -20. 5 pitches are made.

Kodar-2005. Nikolay Zakharov called: We continue to make our base camp more comfortable. There is a lot of snow. We clear away the beaten track to the wall. It's -35. Our greetings to everybody!

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Till the end this expedition was very hard…
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than - 40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue. We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the jeeps to Kathmandu.

The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….

The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..

The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!

Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.

P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray


Svetlana Boldykova(24.01.2005)
From January 15-23, 2005 the 2005 Snowboard World Championships took place in Whistler, Canada.
On January 18 Russians sportsmen showed good results: at Women's Parallel Giant Slalom (PGS - Olympic discipline) Svetlana Boldykova became the second, Ekaterina Tudigescheva - the forth and at Men's Parallel Giant Slalom Denis Salagaev was the ninth.

On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.

And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.



Ines Papert breaks record in Ouary Ice Park, USA
Igor Ivashura, CYKHAX ENT, Munich, informs:
This girl just went and did that left behind all the monsters of ice-climbing and showed the best result among men and women on the tenth annual "Ouary Ice Festival" (USA)!!!

Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.

The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.

Ines's result is really unique.

The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"

Total report

1 22:47 WILL GADD
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
13 16:42 ADAM STACK
5 13:53 SUE NOTT

Photo -

Georgian Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Film Festival N I A M O R I
In January-March 2005, in Georgia (former Soviet Union) Tbilisi will host the second annual Mountain Film Festival “Niamori”


18.01.05 Zakharov called from base camp:
16.01 The bad weather was.
17.01 We finally got to the area of ascent. The gorge is so narrow that the helicopter could not find any convenient site to land and we were dropped in deep snow from a hovering helicopter.

The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.

Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.

Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!

14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to take all our equipment and transport to the village that is 25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring for the sun....



"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.

One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15. We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing we summited.

This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...

Simone and Piotr reached the col and put up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers!...

Simone and Piotr

Petites Jorasses. First free climbing "Omega" route Britons Nick Bullock and Stuart MacAleese became the third team climbed historical Patrick "Gab" Gabarrou's and Ferran Latorre's route "Omega" on Petites Jorasses (Mt. Blanc), (700m, VI/5+,A3).

It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.


Ice-climbing. Jenny Lavarda and Hannes Pfeifhofer are the champions of Italy
The second stage of the Italian Ice-climbing championship "ITALIAN ALPINE CUP" finished at the last weekend in Val Passiria .
At men having got over all the grandees and merited runners as Bubu Mauro Bole and Herbert Klammer Hannes Pfeifhofer, a 18-year climber, unexpectedly won the gold.
Jenny Lavarda, having switched off from rock-climbing on ice in this winter season, took part at such events for the first time and won by a head. Silvia Cian is the second and Monica Gemelli- the third.



GRANDES JORASSES. Linceul (4208m). Winter solo
Ferran Martínez is the Spanish climber soloed the "great classics" of GRANDES JORASSES: Linceul. Some days later his climb was repeated by other Spanish climber Eloi Callado.



The fifth summit under the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter" has been climbed
Sergey Shchepachkov informs:

On January, 9, 2005 a team of climbers (Ivan Artemov, Ivan Alentsev, Victor Afanasyev, Andrey Bukin, and Oleg Bibin) summited Mt. Kazbek (5033m) within the framework of the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter".
Weather during the ascent held ideal. I got cold and had to stop climbing and left the team during the summit push. Proshchenko Maxim and Grishnjachy Leonid had to abandon the team too. The route line went from Northern Ossetia side, through Genaldonskoe gorge via Pastukhova route.

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.



Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
All the night the wind shook the tents and it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud, showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col...

Simone and Piotr

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC (5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going up.

The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...

Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.


Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!. The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult to be...

We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.

Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek that still were in C1.

Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....

Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till 7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek "sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe make already a first summit attempt....

Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?

Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise well and also using that point as the starting point for the summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40° degree and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope till C1.

Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend

The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.

Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550 m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.

Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.

The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold, today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600 m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind... but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get the first technical problem.

Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...

Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.

Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...

We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...

After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible. So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base camp (log way....)

Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...

Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.

On the way to C1(31.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac, below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp I. The altitude is about 6550.

Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.

Ciao, Simone

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32 yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.

Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.

We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!

base camp

Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry 40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA. Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather is still good even the temperature went down in compare of one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team

I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead, I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages. We're sentries up here…

We arrived in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.

A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.

The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible…
Bye, Simone

Translation by Jonathan Etes

German TOP-climbers Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz did not sustained the most severe gale-force wind and bailed their first ascent Murallon, North face, (Patagonia).

Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma.
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.

Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.

In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra stupid discussion.

Simone, Darek, Piotr

On 12 December Jean-Christophe Lafaille returned to the base camp after his challenge summit (on December 11) Shishapangma.

It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.

The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France,




International calendar for ice-climbing competitions, 2005 season





CHABOT Alexandre
 EITER Angela

World Cup 2004 Top-10

1. MRAZEK Tomas CZE 560.00
2. CHABOT Alexandre FRA 516.00
3. CRESPI Flavio ITA 333.00
4. PETRENKO Maxim UKR 322.00

5. USOBIAGA Patxi ESP 317.00
6. POUVREAU Gérome FRA 291.00
7. MILLET Sylvain FRA 268.00
8. FUSELIER Mickael FRA 249.00
9. VERHOEVEN Jorg NED 248.00
10. PUIGBLANQUE Ramón Julián ESP 240.00

1. EITER Angela AUT 535.00
2. SARKANY Muriel BEL 525.00
3. EYER Alexandra SUI 364.00

4. GROS Natalija SLO 364.00
5. CIAVALDINI Caroline FRA 356.00
6. SCHÖPF Bettina AUT 345.00
7. LAVARDA Jenny ITA 299.00
8. VIDMAR Maja SLO 287.00
9. CUFAR Martina SLO 286.00
10. SHALAHINA Olha UKR 245.00

World Cup. Latest Stage. Kranj, SLO

1. Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
2. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov (RUS)
3. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
2. Natalija Gros (SLO)
3-4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
3-4. Sandrine Levet (FRA)

Simone Moro. Shisha Winter
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.

After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp.

Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.

Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch

About expedition

UIAA Worldcup Difficulty Event Brno (CZE) 2004. Results.
The Winners - Flavio CRESPI, Italy, and Alexandra EYER, Switzerland. At men Tomas MRAZEK, CZE, and Alexandre CHABOT, France, are the second and the third accordingly. And at women the Russian Olga SHALAGINA (!!!) is the second and Maja VIDMAR, Slovenia is the third.

See all the results


Fred Rouhling opens his new line Mandallaz drive, 9ŕ
Fred Rouhling has just declared about his successful redpoint of the new project in d'Allonzier la Caille - Mandallaz drive, 9ŕ.
In 1993 only lazy did not mock Fred when he declared the first French 9ŕ, Hugh line. However in 2001, 8 (!) years later, the category was confirmed by Italian climber Alessandro Lamberti.
1995 "Practically everyone in this world had to doubt of his judiciousness" - It is about Fred Rouhling and his challenging Akira, 9b. Do you really think the world delightfully looked into his eyes?
1997 l'Autre Cote du Ciel (The other side of the sky), the second 9ŕ, sent by Fred. Then everything went without any autographs....
3d "9a" of Fred was Fred Nicole's "bain de sang"
2004 Mandallaz drive, 9ŕ. Who would doubt... Go, Fred! :)


Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton
On October 5, the two climbed six new pitches, totaling about 1,000 feet of thin ice and mixed climbing. The new route, which is unnamed, started just left of the classic North Face route and ended at the Hossack-McGowan Couloir, which they followed to the East Ridge and eventually reached the summit.
The crux was found on the second pitch, where unprotectable ice forced Koch into a soaking-wet, “womb-like feature” behind the ice until he could bust through and pull a roof to easier ground. He spent the next belay wringing out his clothes and pouring water out of his boots. A sudden storm then dumped buckets of graupel, which cascaded down the face in “one of the most spectacular sights I have witnessed in the mountains,” Koch said. When the storm stopped, they continued upward through four more good pitches of ice, including a winding WI 5 pitch that Koch called the nicest ice pitch he has ever done on a mountain route.

Rating of rock-climbers - the world leaders. Bouldering. Speed. Difficulty
In bouldering and speed the sportmen have been already put in their places, "all sweets" are given away, in difficulty there are two events more ahead...

UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004


1. Sandrine Levet, France
2. Olga Bibik, Russia
3. Julia Abramchuk, Russia

1. Daniel Dulac, France
2. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
3. Jerome Meyer, France


1. Tatyana Ruyga, Russia
2. Anna Saulevich, Russia

1. Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
2. Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky, Russia
3. Alexander Peshehonov, Russia

Difficulty. The current rating

1. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
2. Angela Eiter, Austria
3. Bettina Schopf, Austria

1. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
2. Alexandre Chabot, France
3. Gerome Pouvreau, France

All results

Rock Climbing. World Cup in Valence, France. Difficulty.
The winners

1. CHABOT Alexandre FRA
2. Bindhammer Christian Germany
1. Muriel Sarkany Belgium
2. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
2. CUFAR Martina SLO
4. Jenny Lavarda ITA
5. Angela Eiter AUT

The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.

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