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K2 West Face

On July, 1, 2005 Pavel Shabalin called (6.40 pm): Tomorrow we will have a rest day. Today we walked up and supposedly reached a camp site of Japanese team. The glacier is very faulted. We marked our trek line and dragged-and-ped a part of our belongings. Only 3 km on a straight line we went for 6 hours. Weather starts to spoil on the quiet, the guys from the other neighboring expeditions told that according weather it will start snowing tomorrow - the day after tomorrow.

Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II

Today first excursion together with Joby but due the bad weather we walk only 2 hours. All the night was raining and also this morning rain for some couple of minutes. Rain at 4100 meters....
For that reason the climb of Ya Chhish had been postponned. Also at the others base camps the situation is the same. We are in touch by sat phone with some friends at G2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and Latok. Today we will read our books and get relax.

After many days of good weather now we have to accept some days of bad and raining/snowing weather. Also today, in fact, we didn't move from B.C. due a rain fall and low clouds. So we spend time in our big and comfortable The North Face mess tend, riding and writing at computer. I decide to start to write my second book some month ago and now I have the time to try to do it. I would like to see published my first book also in other language and not only in Italian. The story of the friendship with Anatoli Boukreev and our tragedy on Annapurna in winter 1997 is always one of the question that foreign climber make to me always. Maybe is not so bad idea to give them the possibility to read what really happened....

We are always in touch by SMS with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner at G2 and Silvio Mondinelli at Nanga Parbat. They also have bad weather and Silvio told me that it will be the same till next Tuesday....


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Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II

First day for Joby here in base camp. He arrange all his equipment in his tend and take confidence with the place and the wonderful view of so many unclimbed mountains around. He get also rest after the fast trekking and some stomach problem he get during the approach. Tomorrow we will do our first excursion together and we will try to reach the summit of Ya Chhis over 5100 meters. It had been climb only one time around 30 years ago. It will be the occasion to show to Joby our route on Batura II and watch all particulars of the mountain.

Till tomorrow

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Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II

Joby Ogwyn arrived at base camp!!! He resolved all the bureaucratic problems and finally he get here at 3:30 p.m. today. The team now is complete and the climb can start. Probably after tomorrow. He obviously need one day rest. Follow us

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Date update: 4.07.2005
Ê2 West Face. We are in K2 base camp.
On June, 30, Victor Kozlov calls (4.15 pm): we are in K2 base camp. In total we passed 92 km for all days of approaching. There are not many climbers in base camp. We set our bivy not near to them but a bit to the west and now are homing in it: fixing the dining room's and kitchen's tents. At last we took out a smoked sausage and eat it with pleasure washing down with beer we had laid up in store. The weather is spoiling. Sometimes it is snowing.

Ê2 is right in front of us and the summit is in clouds now. Today we came past Broad Peak - there are 2 expeditions there now, but some teams are still expected. We need to round Angels Peak to come under Ê2 West Face. We changed our porters and the new ones will help us to get our gear up to the foot of Ê2 West Face through an ice field.
During our way we saw the Masherbrum Wall that Alexander Odintsov has planned for his next ascent. The summit bastion is impressive!

Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II

First cloudy day after one week of blue sky. Probably it is the best weather condition for Joby, who is walking up to "Sheep House" and tomorrow will arrive here in base camp. Today I went again at the base of the face to watch the route I choose but a stone falling push me to change idea and route.... all the snow is melted and now in the coloir remained only stones...

I will follow the same route of the German of 2002 on the right side of the glacier descending from Batokshi. Also today I'm fighting with my sat modem because the mountain that I have in front of base camp cover partially the satellite and I have only 50% of signal that is the minimum to transmit files and data. So many times I have no line or it cut after few seconds. So try o send many times each message before it is able to leave the base camp and arrive to you...

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Date update: 4.07.2005
West Face Ê2.
On June, 27 Victor Kozlov calls:
We climbed up to 4000 m today. While we were crossing along Baltoro glacier we could feast eyes with 6000-7000-m-mountains everywhere around us - what a terrific beautiful! Good weather holds the seventh day. But here it is not very hot any more. Tomorrow we are leaving at 6.00 am and going to gain altitude difference 500 meters passing 20 km. In 3 days we plan to reach the base camp. According GPS we have had 1000 m of climbing motion in total moving along the glacier all the time upwards - downwards. We met Odintsov and Ruchkin at the glacier - they went downwards.
Greetings to everybody!
Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II

I can't wait anymore..! The weather continue to be wonderful and the conditions of the mountain now looks good and safe. Joby Ogywn is NOT yet arrived by Jeep in the village of Bar where my cook Didar is waiting for him since yesterday. For that reason tomorrow I will start the climb alone trying to set camp 1 on Batokshi peak along the route to Batura II. The good weather will not remain so good forever.... better to do something

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Date update: 28.06.2005
Russian National Team line-up for UIAA World Rock-climbing Championship, Munich (Germany), 1-5 July 2005


1. Ovchinnikov Evgeny, Krasnoyarsk
2. Sharafutdinov Dmitry, Ekaterinburg
3. Kaurov Ivan, Saint Petersburg
4. Pekarev Mikhail, Moscow
5. Gogol Mikhail, Kaliningrad
1. Chereshneva Yana, Krasnoyarsk
2. Malamid Evgeniya, Voronezh
3. Chereshneva Venera, Krasnoyarsk
4. Yaemurd Ekaterina, Moscow
5. Alekseeva Ksenia, Miass


1. Peshekhonov Alexander, Meleuz
2. Vaytsekhovsky Evgeny, Ufa
3. Sinitsin Sergey, Ekaterinburg
4. Minachev Evgeny, Tyumen
5. Shaulsky Alexander, Krasnoyarsk
6. Subbotin Jakov, Ekaterinburg
1. Saulevich Anna, Ekaterinburg
2. Ruyga Tatyana, Krasnoyarsk
3. Yurina Valentina, Ekaterinburg
4. Evstigneeva Olga, Krasnoyarsk
5. Saulevich Olesya, Ekaterinburg
6. Piratinskaya Maya, Ekaterinburg


1. Rakhmetov Salavat, Ufa
2. Sharafutdinov Dmitry, Ekaterinburg
3. Gelmanov Rustam, Moscow
4. Kozlov Vasily, Krasnoyarsk
1. Bibik Olga, Krasnoyarsk
2. Abramchuk Julia, Saint Petersburg
3. Tarasova Tatyana, Tolyatti
4. Chereshneva Yana, Krasnoyarsk
5. Alekseeva Ksenia, Miass

"Difficult" stage of Rock-climbing World Cup in Zurich.

I was on time to come back from Moscow and plump into Finals of World Cup that took place in Zurich, and I report to you :)
I was taken aback by Angela Eiter's climb: that looked like "take classes of rock-climbing, girls". When all the qualified for the final girls fell from above the middle of the line, Angela could sent it right up to the end to the accompaniment of public's enthusiastic shouts and cheering en masse but fell from the final hold.

The local rock-climbing star Alexandra Eyer fell short of expectations and in the result became the fourth. But at men Cedric Lachat (though from the French part but the Swiss) sweetened "female pill" and became the winner.

It is needed to tell that the men showed more equal results. Cedric and a young German Timo Preussler both fell from the same hold and the results of semifinal tipped the beam.

As to our climbers - (M.Ru. comment: Russian climbers did not participate in this stage, Vadim is referring to the Ukrainian climbers) - Alena Ostapenko was just about to qualify for the final (12 place). But I did not get on to this part of the program.

1 LACHAT Cedric (SUI)
3 CRESPI Flavio (ITA)

1 EITER Angela (AUT)
2 SAURWEIN Katharina

Source: Vadim Geshkenbein, Switzerland

Rock-climbing news-bulletin. In expectation of World championship. The rocks not for everyone. Olga Bibik, Natalia Perlova, 8à.
Olga Bibik: "We are in Arko. For two days I was climbing natural rocks and sent Red Rocks, 8a in the area Massone. Natasha Perlova climbed it too. Now we are training in a climbing gym. It's very hot In Arco, +36Ñ :) Tomorrow we will try rocks in a new area Covalo".
Max Petrenko - the Ukrainian citizen. Plus 8b+
"No longer ago than last Thursday I was in the same area, Nassareith, in 50 kilometers from Innsbruck. I sent one more 8b, third go. I nearly on-sighted it first go but fell right at the end of the route. And failed second go too. The line presents two bouldering cruxes. My third attempt was successful. In general it is very hot here, just fiendish heat!"
West Face Ê2 Reconnaissance.

June, 26, Victor Kozlov calls: We went 20 km more for today. The heat holds - it seems we are like in a mountain desert. The sky is serene and bright. We reached Paju, 3400 m. We don't want to gain altitude at a dash. Even trees grow in Paju: It looks like a small green oasis on the river bank. What a nice place! We could already see the upper part of K2 today. Tomorrow we are leaving on the glacier to continue our headway.

June, 25 Victor Kozlov calls: We left Askole today only at 7.00 am - it took us two days to hire porters and dispense the loads: we could not find porters in Askole and had to take them on from the settlements located below. Just the natural disaster - fiendish heat holds in Pakistan now. Even at 3000 meters the temperature is 45 C. There is a lot of snow and it is thawing with a run. During afternoon it's just impossible to cross some places. All the creeks on our way turned to the rough rivers and we are up against difficulties to jump them. The way appears very hard for our porters. Today we went 20 km and reached the following staging post. Tomorrow we are leaving at 4.00 am to go next 20 km, and hope to reach the next post by 2.00 pm.
Greetings to everybody!

Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II

Another sunny day with blue sky. It is already one week that I get this weather conditions and the snow is melting fast. The avalanches continue to come down along the icy walls and they clean the deep snow from the mountains. Today I spoke with some friends that are in Pakistan in different expeditions and they also told me to have the same weather conditions. We agreed that the season 2005 is 20/25 days late and that is not a problem to be at base camp late June and beginning of July.
Today I did another excursion at the base of the face to observe the last details of the route...

Second excursion around the base camp. Today in fact I climbed a fore summit of Ya Chhish, who is located exactly in front of Batura II and Batokshi peak. From that point I get the possibility to see our route and take nice pictures. It had been also the occasion to do a 5 ours “trekking” and climb till 4° grade UIAA in a nice ambient and rock. Today Joby Ogwyn landed in Islamabad and immediately he took another flight to Gilgit. Tomorrow he will start his trekking and in 3 days will be here at base camp. Also today I send you some photos I took today

Joby Ogwyn, my climbing partner, is flying now from Milano to Islamabad. Finally he get the visa and he can start the expedition and his fast approach to the base camp. He should arrive here one 29th of June. Today I went to the base of the face to observe the starting point of our route. I took some photos and transport some equipment there. The altitude of the starting point of the route should be 4250 m. Tomorrow I will go to the summit of Ya Chhish 5130 m that is located exactly in front of the face and from where I should see most part of our climbing line from to base to the summit. Ya Chhish had been already climbed the 23rd may 1976 from two east-german climbers.
Till tomorrow

First day at base camp. Also today nice weather and many work to do. Fix definitively the tends, shavelling the snow, set the solar panel together the electronic instruments, test the emergency generator, control all the climbing equipment. Also today I did tons of photos to the mountains around us. There are so many unclimbed and beautiful peaks. Since tomorrow I will show to you some of them with name and altitude. I hope that somebody will find one to attempt in the next expedition....

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Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II. Finally we arrived at base camp!

Finally we arrived at base camp! The GPS of my sat phone Thuraya indicated 4103 meters the altitude of this place. From here to the summit should be 3659 m of difference... The place is really nice and thanks to the porters we arrived here with all the equipment to stay till august and made all the attempt we need. Here there is water, we are near the wall of Batura, there is grass even still covered from snow now. We have sun from 7 a.m to 6 p.m.. Now we remained in 3 persons. Me and the Pakistan cooks Didar and the kitchenboy Karim. My climbing partner Joby Ogwyn is still in Italy but should fly to Islamabad between 3 days. His passport with Pakistan visa is coming from USA to Italy (where he lives now). Other thing I will write you tomorrow as I have a lot of free time.....

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K2 West Face. We're in Askol now

Viktor Kozlov reports: We're in Askol now, tomorrow we are going up. Now we are busy with managing the loads for the porters. The weather is so nice.

Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II. How big is it!

How big is it!!!! This is the first sentences I said when I saw Batura II and the Batura group!! As supposed the flat green place of the base camp of the German expedition of 2002 is completely covered by 50/100 cm snow. Only near the morean we found a small green place, NOT FLAT where we set the provisory camp for today. The porters worked hard to find the place to organize their camp and place for all of them below stones or protected from stone walls. Tomorrow we will cross the glacier and set the base camp where I requested, near the face. It will be the "Italian base camp".....

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"K 2 West Face "Skardu is a tremendous place... We start trekking tomorrow morning. Everything is OK"

On June, 21, Victor Kozlov reports: "The team left Islamabad the day before yesterday and now we are in Skardu. First day we drove 12,5 hours, spent the night in Chilas and next day went 9 hours.

What a tremendous place Skardu with its beautiful valley paving the way between mountains and the river passing into the lake!
We like this place very much. And in general we like Pakistan - everywhere is clean, accurate there... We have bought equipment, now we are buying vegetables and tomorrow we head to Askole where will spend the night (already in installed tents) and then next morning we will start trekking again. Everything is OK.

Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro Batura II.

What a nice place here!!! I never imagined that I could find a better place around high mountain. The photo I send you, will not probably give you the real idea of the beauty but believe me.... is incredible.
Around the mountains we saw today and also yesterday, there are a lot of snow leopards and all my porters told me stories about their meeting with the animal and that in this area there are a lot. I can believe it, because here there is no tourism and also very few expeditions came here in the past.
Today we stopped here at 3332 meters and not higher as scheduled, because the porters decided to walk 2 days more (tomorrow and after tomorrow) to help me as muchas they can to arrive closer to the mountain and not at the normal base camp that is 5/6 hours distance from the wall. For me it should be a great help!
Today afternoon the porters played at 3332 meters highness. They prepared the "game tools" with some wood, they provided in the forest and the game started....

They are fantastic as the mountain here around.....

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Bouldering UIAA Worldcup (Second Stage) Fiera di Primiero (ITA) 2005.

Vivat! Olga Bibik is the first, Julia Abramchuk- the third!!! Yes!:)
Last Sunday brought us two good news: one of them is excellent, the second - surprising. Let's start with the first one: Olga Bibik won the second stage of Worldcup in Fiera di Primiero! "I am the first! What a mercy! I wish it would be like that at world championship :) Sandrine was very upset. I did not expect that the second place can upset somebody very much. Julia is the third. Our greetings to Moscow". The second news was a little bit unexpected. Gerome Pouvreau, successfully participated in difficulty the other day now became the first in men's bouldering.

Final Results

2. LEVET Sandrine FRA
4. THEROUX Corinne FRA
7. BACHER Barbara AUT
8. ASHER Elizabeth USA

3. EARL Andrew GBR
4. DULAC Daniel FRA
5. JULIEN Stephane FRA
6. MEYER Jerome FRA

Mutants. They are already here. "Wanted: a man of middle size, sthenic and of sturdy build in a white T-short and a cap. You can meet a lot of such Ukrainians in the capital" :)
Max Petrenko, 8à + on on-sight, 8b - second go.

Max Petrenko, Ukraine: "I had arrived in Innsbruck (Austria) the day before yesterday but yesterday I already was on rocks and on-sighted AREN 8à +, area Nassareith (near to Innsbruck) and also FORTUNA, 8b, second go".

Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II.

After discussing and managing the loads for the porters, finally we did start for the trekking.

We have 42 porters and some of them are the same of the German expedition of 2002.

They are very nice, friendly and strong. The valley, in which we are trekking is really wild and beautiful.

Green and brown are the 2 colours that had been around us during all the day. Now we are a 2782 meter of altitude and we can see at 1 hour distance, the Baltar glacier. Tomorrow evening we will see Batura IV and III.

For Batura I and II we have to wait one day more....

All news of the expeditions

Great success at Arco (Trentino - Lake Garda) for the European Youth climbing Festival

Arco 19/06/2005
If Arco equals climbing, then the Rock Junior is its future. The second day of the great European Youth climbing meeting, or rather, the European Youth Climbing Days - Rock Junior, turned out be a great party. This fantastic youth climbing festival was fueled by the enthusiasm of more than 2500 participants, from young and even younger climbers to their parents, all of whom participated in two days of climbing and games. And, of course, the European Under 14 Cup, reserved for the best young European climbers who competed on the impressive and mythical Rock Master wall.

For two days the climbing Stadium was transformed for these young climbers, who came in all different shapes and sizes and spoke a myriad of different languages. 14 different nationalities were represented on the green lawn beneath the Colodri wall which, for the occasion, was transformed into a great amusement park for the young. Climbers from Italy, Austria, Luxembourg, Germany, Belgium, England, Sweden, Hungary, Czech Republic, Russia, Lithuania, Slovakia, Slovenia and the Ukraine were all united by one common passion: climbing both as a sport and a game. All, from the youngest to the oldest, released their incredible energy, and immense desire to climb.

All found their own, personal dimension. Starting with the impressively determined and able athletes who travelled here for the European Under 14 Cup, and finishing with the youngest climbers taking part in the Kid’s Rock, climbing lines which resembled nature such as crossing tree trunks, the river or the sweets climb.

The bouncy castle and slide were a particular favorite and the children literally assaulted this ascent. And many continued with the fun, crossing the River Sarca on the Tyrolean traverse and, for the smallest, drawing in the arts laboratory. Many mini climbers chose to test their physical capacities and plan their training programs under the supervision of the University of Perugia professors Paola Gigliotti and Prof. Francesco Coscia.

The second round of the European Under 14 Cup was won as follows: category A (1992/93) Arman Ter-Mynasyan from Russian and Johanna Ernst from Austria category B (1994/95) Domen Skofic and Vita Osolin from Slovenia, while category C (1996/97/98) was won by Julija Kruder from Slovenia and Markus Ladurner from Italy, the best Italian athlete together with Jessica Morandi from Arco who won the Italian trophy yesterday and European Speed.

But what really counts at the Rock Junior, more so than anything else, is taking part. And so this great open air festival came to a close with an event shared by both parents and children, the Family Rock. 50 pairs of parents and their young ones took part in this exciting relay on the speed wall. Pairs "passed the baton" at half height and, at the same time, took part in a game which has few equals in other sports and which was perhaps the most interesting aspect of these two beautiful climbing days at Arco. Two days of happiness and joy, documented also by Disney Channel, which prepared two showings of the event and the climbing.

The 4th edition of the Rock Junior was a great success therefore, thanks to the participants and the impeccable organisation. This was headed by the Associazione Rock Master di Arco, with the indispensable collaboration of the Associazione Sportiva Arco Climbing, the FASI (Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana) and the help of the Guardia di Finanza, the Polizia, the Carabinieri, the SAT mountain rescue service and the mountain guides Friends of Arco, who all worked to guarantee the participant's safety. Once again their help contributed in making Arco the world's climbing capital.

Thanks also go to the institutions, the Autonomous Province of Trento, the Comune di Arco, Cassa Rurale Alto Garda, Ingarda Spa, Azienda Municipalizzata Sviluppo Arco, and the technical sponsors The North Face, La Sportiva, Cassin, Sint Roc & Ecogrips, Pareti and PlanetMountain who all made this festival for young climbers possible.

Press Office Rock Junior
Vinicio Stefanello
Tel. +39 049 8808423

C.P. 60 38062 ARCO TN
TEL 0464 516830
FAX 0464 517691

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Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II

Today I saw white mountains. Even with one hour delay, I flew to Gilgit today and in the clouds I saw mountains of this area, mostly Nanga Parbat. The snow it look really deep and more than usual for this season and in the few minutes of the clear sky I took some pictures to Nanga to show you. I also tried to watch in the direction of Rakaposhi and Batura but it was impossible to see because there was to cloudy sky and flew to low.
The sun in any case continue to be the principal actor of the day and it should be good to melt the heavy snow on Karakorum mountains… The news I get from here about Baltoro area is that from Urdukas to the base camp of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II, the porters have to walk in the snow with the obvious difficulties.
Tomorrow should arrive in Gilgit by truck and bus all the expedition's equipment and my cook Didar and the kitchenboy. After tomorrow we should start to trek to base camp. Today I also spoke with Joby in Italy (his new home) and he confirmed me that his passport arrived in USA and in Pakistan embassy there. I hope and wish that the visa will be organized fast and Joby will come here to begin the adventure soon...

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Diran Peak 7266
Date update: 6.07.2005
Simone Moro. Batura II

Today we start. From Gilgit we will go by Jeep for 4/5 hours till the village of Bar where we will spend the night and organize the porters. Tomorrow we will start the trekking to approach Batura II throw Baltar Glacier. There is a lot of snow and this is the reason why I choose this approach and not the Muchuchil glacier valley. We in fact received advise from our staff, that porters wouldn't go there because it is longer and more difficult with deep snow. The risk is they left our equipment too far from the mountain. On the map you can see the purple points that indicate our trekking way. I hope to get the possibility to update the web site and give you information and photos also along the trekking (if batteries will work without to be charged anymore till base camp).
So everybody on board that the games are starting...

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All photos (number: 4)

New ambitions of Krasnoyarsk climbers
V. Arhipov informs:
Within the framework of Russian Championship the combined team of climbers from Krasnoyarsk region already made the first ascent via a rather complex route on an anonymous summit located in Kodar Mountain range in February, 2005. There are a lot of worthy walls in Kodar while unknown to climbing people. It seems this abeyance plays a negative role - for some reason climbers consider the routes there rather easy beforehand…
But let's speak not about that, but about our new plans.
Petr Kuznetsov, the representative of our region in a group of investigation, has already left to make a route reco at K2 West Face. The aim is to discover the ways of approach, possible sites for camps, to survey the wall and to take a fling at it.
The Krasnoyarians are going to take part in a rocky class of Russian Internal Mountaineering Championship that runs in Erydag on July, 9- 28. In a structure of the team: Belyaev Eugeny, Litvinov Andrey, Loginov Igor, Tsygankov Victor the coach - Valery Balezin.
The combined team consisted of Khvostenko Oleg, Glazyrin Jury, Rodikov Boris, Tsyganov Dmitry, Janushevich Alexander leaves Krasnoyarsk on July, 22 to climb 4810 Peak in Karavshin gorge within the framework of Russian Mountaineering Championship, high-altitude-technical class.
The combined team in structure of Arhipov Vladimir, Gunko Vladimir, Dmitrienko Eugeny, Malygin Pavel, Mikhalitsin Alexander plans to depart to Bishkek on July, 22 to take part in training ascents in the area of Ala-Archa mountaineering camp. Approximately on July, 30, having met Tsygankov and Balezin after their Caucasus climbs we will head to Mt. Ak-Su aiming to make an ascent within the framework of Russian Mountaineering Championship, high-altitude-technical class. We are interested in information about the teams planning to be at the foot of Ak-Su at that time. Our planned route - via the center of the North Face bastion. We hope to find and call for volunteers to pool together efforts at getting to the area and doing the first full carry. Contact: .
After Ak-Su summit attempt (if we have enough strength, mood and money left) we suppose to climb Lenina Peak.
Date update: 6.07.2005
Batura II. Simone Moro's New Project.

Ciao to everybody. I'm here again after some month silence after the first winter climb I realized with Piotr on Shisha Pangma 8027 m (officially registred) My new project you should know and you can read on my web site and the most important international web sites. The expedition started with some problems because we have to fight to obtain the pakistan visa from the embassy in Italy and finally only I get it... Joby Ogwyn had to send his passport to Usa and is waiting to get it back with the visa. For that reason I'm in Islamabad alone and I already made the briefing at the minister of Tourism, collected the equipment sent by cargo 2 weeks ago and tomorrow I will fly to Gilgit and than start with the trekking. Now I have another big problem, because I get 2 different advices from 2 friends who knows Batura very well. Wolfgang Heichel (the most informed man about this mountain area) told me to go to Batura II along the Muchuchil Glacier. Markus Walter the last climber who attempted Batura II in 2002 suggest me to go along the Baltar Glacier. There are 2 different valleys and approach. Which I have to follow??!! Also in ATP agency of Ashraf Aman I get 2 advices from 2 different cooks who was in the 2 different glaciers in different expeditions. The advices are different also.... The only thing it looks agreed that from Baltar Glacier should and could be less dangerous..... maybe. Soon you will have the result of my decision ( I have a coin to play the choice........:-)

All news of the expeditions

Today the vanguard of Russian Everest summiteers (Pavel Shabalin, Petr Kuznetsov, Viktor Elagin and Victor Kozlov) starts from Sheremetyevo-2 airport heading K2 West Face to make a reco of a new route.
A.Odintsov and A.Ruchkin: Masherbrum route reco or one can cross the whole land for a good deal
Alexander Ruchkin: "We are OK as usual. Yesterday drove on jeeps in a small village named Hushe. It is good that it's located close and we could have a look at Masherbrum from the south though the weather is capable of improvement. It turned out to be out of our interests and now we head again to Skarda to wait the permit for Masherbrum from the north face and then will tear away there: this time it will be much farther - one day on jeeps and five days on foot.
On June, 2 Valeri Babanov and Raphael Slawinski summited McKinley via classical route at 1.00 am. It took them 9 hours to start climbing from the camp at 4300 m, summit and come back.

Temperature at the top was about negative 40-45 C, weather was unstable. They had made two McKinley attempts before. On June, 3 they plan to descend to the base camp to have a rest for 2-3 days.

The further plans are without changes: the guys will try to pave a new route on McKinley South Face with the overall of 3000 meters.
They are in a good mood and wish only the good weather!

Today, on 25 February Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) yearly award will be presented in Grenoble, France.

All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.

In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody!
Now it's 5 am on local time. We had to cease efforts to ascend Fitz Roy because of an objective danger of the route: a huge ice-fall hangs over the couloir and it's constantly under ice bombardment. We decided to change our plans and to climb Saint Exupery peak (2558m). We are going to start, summit and descend this day. The weather forecast is good for the first half of the day, but for the second is bad. We will try to work faster. Wish us good luck.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody.
Yesterday we descended in Chalten and in the very nick of time - got right into a global climbing party. The party was terrific and we had a great time. As always, Russian songs headed the bill. Alexander's singing already became a legend in Chalten. People recognize him in the street and almost nearly ask for an autograph.

Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.

After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.

Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.

For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.

Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.

Wish us of good luck.
Leonid, Alexander, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi! Having climbed the Mountain for two days we had to descend yesterday. We were too close to summit but got into a violent icefall right under the summit mushroom. Thank Heaven we are safe and sound but it was too dangerous there and decided to stop climbing and descend. Now we have a rest. We'll inform you about our further plans.
That's all on for today. Take care.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi everybody!
Yesterday we descended to El Chalten. Three days ago we hired horses and moved our base camp (150 kg!) in Camp-Bridwell. Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre is a very cosy camping area embowered in trees. A stunning view at Cerro Torre massif opens from there. There are a lot of aspiring Cerro Torre climbers and trekkers living there now. Weather was wonderful. However toward evening surprisingly beautiful clouds of fantastic colors and shapes reminding UFOs appeared in the sky. It's the typical sign of an impending storm.

At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.

Dean PotterA good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.

Tomas HuberTowards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.

Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.

Austrians & SashaThe ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".

As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.

Cerro Torre at dawnNow we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.

Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.

Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.

We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Alexander, Leonid, Olga.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody. Today we finally climbed up to Norwegian camp site. It took us rather much time.
People say that there is a bad weather forecast for the day after tomorrow and we do not know really what to do. We need two days to try for the summit.

Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Our greetings to everybody! Yesterday we reached Base Camp and homed in it. We found a lot of people there. Thomas Huber told us about his brother Alex Huber that had to left home because had wounded his eye (at least the story runs that). Weather has been standing magnificent for three days, and it hurts us that we arrived so late. We are afraid, that good weather will not hold for some days more and we will not have time to ascend. Tomorrow we are going to climb up to Norwegian camp site and , the day after tomorrow we plan to get the Col and if the weather is good we will make a summit push the next day.

That is all there is to it for today.

Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
We flied almost lost-free. Only two backpacks with our belongings, sleeping bags, etc. and a tent were lost en route. But as people say money makes the mare go and we are going to buy needed gear in El Calafate where we will take off tomorrow.

And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.

We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

Things are shaking down rapidly. They found Olga's backpack and delivered it. In an hour our plane departs to El Calafate. Our greetings to everybody.

Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.

As expected we bought all needed things in El Calafate. You can't pick and choose here because practically all the things sold there are made by one local company...

There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.

Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.

Alxander, Leonid, Olga.


 Ines PapertHarald Berger

Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Ice Boulder Champions

In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.

Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit:


The team successfully summited on January 29!
On January 29 the guys woke up early in the morning (4 a.m.) and started their summit bid. After they climbed the summit bastion and narrow rocky ridge, all the team reached the Kodar's summit at 9.00. Temperature was negative 43, but weather was breathless. That day all of them safe and sound descended to the base camp toward evening.

Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.

All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.

We congratulate and wait for the winners!

We have already climbed a half of the route. We abide by the schedule. On January 24 we made 3 pitches, it's a record for the present time. Yesterday we made only one pitch. Today two-man team of Dmitrienko and Tsyganov is next in turn to fix the rope on the route. In total, since 19 of January we made 13 pitches - it's approximately a half of the route. Yesterday the team in its full complement took off and now is making themselves at home in a tent settled in a small rocky niche that was found in the area of 12-th pitch.

We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.

Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.

We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.

Keep in touch with us!

For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. In total 9 pitches are climbed. Firm granite, cold, ice-covered rocks. Today Prokof'ev and Belyanin are working. They have to find a convenient site for the first hanging camp. Temperature is negative 30.

New world champions in ice-climbing. January, 21-22, The 2nd World Championships for Difficulty- and Speed Ice Climbing and the 1st Swiss Ice Climbing Masters in Difficulty and Speed, Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.


Difficulty. Men

1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
2 ANTHAMATTEN Simon (Switzerland)
3 LEICHTFRIED Albert (Austria)

4 BENDLER Markus (Austria)
5 ANTHAMATTEN Samuel (Switzerland)
6 WANDELER Simon (Switzerland)
7 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
8 ODERMATT Urs (Switzerland)

Difficulty. Women

1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
2 PAPERT Ines (Germany)
3 MAUREAU Stephanie (France)

4 BUCHMANN Kirsten (Germany)
5 TORRETTA Anna (Italy)
6 EYER Alexandra (Switzerland)
7 FILIPPOVA Maryam (Russia)
8 SHABALINA Maria (Russia)

Speed. Men

1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
2 FAYZULLIN Igor (Russia)
3 CHVED Nikolai (Russia)

4 HOFER Lars (Switzerland)

Speed. Women

1 KOULIKOVA Natalia Russia
2 OLEINIKOVA Joulia Russia
3 TORRETTA Anna Italy

Photo: Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,

On Saturday January, 22, Sergey Borisov was killed in an automobile accident in Ekaterinburg. I do not know, what I can add any more. Suddenly I realized that I have nothing to say if it happens to my friends... because it is not right..

Sergey Borisov

Master of Sport of International Grade
For a long time he was the captain of Sport Club of Army of Ural military region.
He became four times champion of USSR, twice champion of Russia, numerous prize-winner of different national championships.

The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.

1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).

1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".

1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".

2002 - Everest via Northern col.

2004 - Jannu North Face, summiter


Everything is turning out well. We dug a cave and sorted out the problem of fire wood. Three two-man teams (Prokofiev-Belyaev, Dmitrienko-Tsyganov, Tsygankov - Cherezov) worked alternating on the route for 3 days and made 7 pitches. It became warmer a little, -20, snowfalls. The Wall is ice- and snow-covered.

It's snowing, temperature is -20. 5 pitches are made.

Kodar-2005. Nikolay Zakharov called: We continue to make our base camp more comfortable. There is a lot of snow. We clear away the beaten track to the wall. It's -35. Our greetings to everybody!

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Till the end this expedition was very hard…
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than - 40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue. We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the jeeps to Kathmandu.

The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….

The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..

The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!

Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.

P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray


Svetlana Boldykova(24.01.2005)
From January 15-23, 2005 the 2005 Snowboard World Championships took place in Whistler, Canada.
On January 18 Russians sportsmen showed good results: at Women's Parallel Giant Slalom (PGS - Olympic discipline) Svetlana Boldykova became the second, Ekaterina Tudigescheva - the forth and at Men's Parallel Giant Slalom Denis Salagaev was the ninth.

On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.

And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.



Ines Papert breaks record in Ouary Ice Park, USA
Igor Ivashura, CYKHAX ENT, Munich, informs:
This girl just went and did that left behind all the monsters of ice-climbing and showed the best result among men and women on the tenth annual "Ouary Ice Festival" (USA)!!!

Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.

The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.

Ines's result is really unique.

The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"

Total report

1 22:47 WILL GADD
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
13 16:42 ADAM STACK
5 13:53 SUE NOTT

Photo -

Georgian Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Film Festival N I A M O R I
In January-March 2005, in Georgia (former Soviet Union) Tbilisi will host the second annual Mountain Film Festival “Niamori”


18.01.05 Zakharov called from base camp:
16.01 The bad weather was.
17.01 We finally got to the area of ascent. The gorge is so narrow that the helicopter could not find any convenient site to land and we were dropped in deep snow from a hovering helicopter.

The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.

Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.

Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!

14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to take all our equipment and transport to the village that is 25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring for the sun....



"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.

One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15. We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing we summited.

This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...

Simone and Piotr reached the col and put up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers!...

Simone and Piotr

Petites Jorasses. First free climbing "Omega" route Britons Nick Bullock and Stuart MacAleese became the third team climbed historical Patrick "Gab" Gabarrou's and Ferran Latorre's route "Omega" on Petites Jorasses (Mt. Blanc), (700m, VI/5+,A3).

It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.


Ice-climbing. Jenny Lavarda and Hannes Pfeifhofer are the champions of Italy
The second stage of the Italian Ice-climbing championship "ITALIAN ALPINE CUP" finished at the last weekend in Val Passiria .
At men having got over all the grandees and merited runners as Bubu Mauro Bole and Herbert Klammer Hannes Pfeifhofer, a 18-year climber, unexpectedly won the gold.
Jenny Lavarda, having switched off from rock-climbing on ice in this winter season, took part at such events for the first time and won by a head. Silvia Cian is the second and Monica Gemelli- the third.



GRANDES JORASSES. Linceul (4208m). Winter solo
Ferran Martínez is the Spanish climber soloed the "great classics" of GRANDES JORASSES: Linceul. Some days later his climb was repeated by other Spanish climber Eloi Callado.



The fifth summit under the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter" has been climbed
Sergey Shchepachkov informs:

On January, 9, 2005 a team of climbers (Ivan Artemov, Ivan Alentsev, Victor Afanasyev, Andrey Bukin, and Oleg Bibin) summited Mt. Kazbek (5033m) within the framework of the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter".
Weather during the ascent held ideal. I got cold and had to stop climbing and left the team during the summit push. Proshchenko Maxim and Grishnjachy Leonid had to abandon the team too. The route line went from Northern Ossetia side, through Genaldonskoe gorge via Pastukhova route.

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.



Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
All the night the wind shook the tents and it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud, showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col...

Simone and Piotr

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC (5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going up.

The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...

Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.


Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!. The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult to be...

We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.

Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek that still were in C1.

Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....

Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till 7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek "sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe make already a first summit attempt....

Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?

Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise well and also using that point as the starting point for the summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40° degree and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope till C1.

Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend

The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.

Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550 m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.

Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.

The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold, today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600 m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind... but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get the first technical problem.

Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...

Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.

Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...

We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...

After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible. So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base camp (log way....)

Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...

Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.

On the way to C1(31.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac, below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp I. The altitude is about 6550.

Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.

Ciao, Simone

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32 yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.

Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.

We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!

base camp

Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry 40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA. Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather is still good even the temperature went down in compare of one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team

I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead, I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages. We're sentries up here…

We arrived in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.

A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.

The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible…
Bye, Simone

Translation by Jonathan Etes

German TOP-climbers Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz did not sustained the most severe gale-force wind and bailed their first ascent Murallon, North face, (Patagonia).

Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.

Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma.
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.

Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.

In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra stupid discussion.

Simone, Darek, Piotr

On 12 December Jean-Christophe Lafaille returned to the base camp after his challenge summit (on December 11) Shishapangma.

It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.

The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France,




International calendar for ice-climbing competitions, 2005 season





CHABOT Alexandre
 EITER Angela

World Cup 2004 Top-10

1. MRAZEK Tomas CZE 560.00
2. CHABOT Alexandre FRA 516.00
3. CRESPI Flavio ITA 333.00
4. PETRENKO Maxim UKR 322.00

5. USOBIAGA Patxi ESP 317.00
6. POUVREAU Gérome FRA 291.00
7. MILLET Sylvain FRA 268.00
8. FUSELIER Mickael FRA 249.00
9. VERHOEVEN Jorg NED 248.00
10. PUIGBLANQUE Ramón Julián ESP 240.00

1. EITER Angela AUT 535.00
2. SARKANY Muriel BEL 525.00
3. EYER Alexandra SUI 364.00

4. GROS Natalija SLO 364.00
5. CIAVALDINI Caroline FRA 356.00
6. SCHÖPF Bettina AUT 345.00
7. LAVARDA Jenny ITA 299.00
8. VIDMAR Maja SLO 287.00
9. CUFAR Martina SLO 286.00
10. SHALAHINA Olha UKR 245.00

World Cup. Latest Stage. Kranj, SLO

1. Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
2. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov (RUS)
3. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
2. Natalija Gros (SLO)
3-4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
3-4. Sandrine Levet (FRA)

Simone Moro. Shisha Winter
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.

After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp.

Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.

Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch

About expedition

UIAA Worldcup Difficulty Event Brno (CZE) 2004. Results.
The Winners - Flavio CRESPI, Italy, and Alexandra EYER, Switzerland. At men Tomas MRAZEK, CZE, and Alexandre CHABOT, France, are the second and the third accordingly. And at women the Russian Olga SHALAGINA (!!!) is the second and Maja VIDMAR, Slovenia is the third.

See all the results


Fred Rouhling opens his new line Mandallaz drive, 9à
Fred Rouhling has just declared about his successful redpoint of the new project in d'Allonzier la Caille - Mandallaz drive, 9à.
In 1993 only lazy did not mock Fred when he declared the first French 9à, Hugh line. However in 2001, 8 (!) years later, the category was confirmed by Italian climber Alessandro Lamberti.
1995 "Practically everyone in this world had to doubt of his judiciousness" - It is about Fred Rouhling and his challenging Akira, 9b. Do you really think the world delightfully looked into his eyes?
1997 l'Autre Cote du Ciel (The other side of the sky), the second 9à, sent by Fred. Then everything went without any autographs....
3d "9a" of Fred was Fred Nicole's "bain de sang"
2004 Mandallaz drive, 9à. Who would doubt... Go, Fred! :)


Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton
On October 5, the two climbed six new pitches, totaling about 1,000 feet of thin ice and mixed climbing. The new route, which is unnamed, started just left of the classic North Face route and ended at the Hossack-McGowan Couloir, which they followed to the East Ridge and eventually reached the summit.
The crux was found on the second pitch, where unprotectable ice forced Koch into a soaking-wet, “womb-like feature” behind the ice until he could bust through and pull a roof to easier ground. He spent the next belay wringing out his clothes and pouring water out of his boots. A sudden storm then dumped buckets of graupel, which cascaded down the face in “one of the most spectacular sights I have witnessed in the mountains,” Koch said. When the storm stopped, they continued upward through four more good pitches of ice, including a winding WI 5 pitch that Koch called the nicest ice pitch he has ever done on a mountain route.

Rating of rock-climbers - the world leaders. Bouldering. Speed. Difficulty
In bouldering and speed the sportmen have been already put in their places, "all sweets" are given away, in difficulty there are two events more ahead...

UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004


1. Sandrine Levet, France
2. Olga Bibik, Russia
3. Julia Abramchuk, Russia

1. Daniel Dulac, France
2. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
3. Jerome Meyer, France


1. Tatyana Ruyga, Russia
2. Anna Saulevich, Russia

1. Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
2. Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky, Russia
3. Alexander Peshehonov, Russia

Difficulty. The current rating

1. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
2. Angela Eiter, Austria
3. Bettina Schopf, Austria

1. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
2. Alexandre Chabot, France
3. Gerome Pouvreau, France

All results

Rock Climbing. World Cup in Valence, France. Difficulty.
The winners

1. CHABOT Alexandre FRA
2. Bindhammer Christian Germany
1. Muriel Sarkany Belgium
2. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
2. CUFAR Martina SLO
4. Jenny Lavarda ITA
5. Angela Eiter AUT

The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.

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