Author: : Alexander Odintsov, Sankt-Petersburg Photo: Denis Provalov, Moscow
(14.12.2007) Recollections about Shipton SpireNow, when I remember summer expedition to Pakistan, many petty details have been removed from my memory. Only bright impressions rest in the head. Probably, only they are worthy of being transferred to paper… Thus, bright impressions…
Author: Andrew Murishev Photo: Denis Saveliev, Sergey Nilov, Elena Dmitrenko
(13.12.2007) Peak of LeninFurther you descent to the glacier of Lenin and go along the path along the glacier, then come to the glacier in its middle stream. Up to the coming to the body of the glacier, the path is rather good.
Author: Maxim Foigel, Krasnodar
(26.11.2007) Lenin peak (7134 m). Probably, many alpinists think that the more ascents are made to the summit, the easier of access the mountain is. But this statement is erroneous and even dangerous.
Author: Maxim Foigel, Krasnodar
(22.11.2007) Lenin Peak.From the Northern slopes of the Peak of Lenin a glacier of the same name with Western and Eastern sources, flows down, it is 9 kilometers long and the Western source is the main one. From the Southern slopes of the summit glaciers Bolshoy (in the East) and Maly (in the West) Saukdara flow down.
Author: Maxim Foigel, Krasnodar
(21.11.2007) The best Russian ascent of the year 2007. 13 nomineesThe winner will be chosen according to the objective rating: jury of the premium consists of the leaders of the teams-nominees. Each of the leaders votes for the best ascent from the list, but he can not vote for his team. According to the results of voting the winner will be chosen.
(15.11.2007) Lenin Peak.Nowadays Lenin Peak, which exact altitude is 7,134.3 m (23,406.5 ft), is Pamir's most famous and often visited mountain over 7000 m .
(8.11.2007) Guidebook
SokolSector 2. Even interesting plate climbing using self-made points of rest with strips of free-climbing of 5c-6c grade of difficulty. On the first meters there is an opportunity to fall down to the belayer.
Authors: Alexander Kuzminsky, Moscow
Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol
(1.11.2007) Passing the route “Mezhdu Ribakami” (“Between Fishermen”)Ascent in the context of the mountaineering championship of the Primorsky Kray on the rocky route “Mezhdu Ribakami” made on the 12-13th of March 2004 in the region of the Przhevalsky massif.
Author: Vladimir Markov, Vladivostok
(29.10.2007) Guidebook
Sokol
P.S. Part 2 Sudak is manifold. Besides Sokol there are a lot of interesting objects. So, if you have two free days, which you decide to dedicate to resting, you are lucky – you have a problem of choice.
Author: Alexander Kuzmitsky, Moscow and Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol
(26.10.2007) Guidebook
Sokol (sector 1) P.S.All the routes described below are located on the South-Eastern wall of the Sokol. It is so-called “the first sector”, the nearest to Sudak and CRS. Closeness to the rescuers, dwelling, water and comparative easiness favorably mark out this sector of the Sokol.
Authors: Alexander Kuzmitsky, Moscow and Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol
(25.10.2007) Mountain.RU Rock Contest
Back To The NatureJack Krivosheitsev:
As it was expected, the festival passed wonderfully, it is a pity that there was not lots of climbers in the Crimea in October, those who couldn't come missed a nifty show, especially because the beginning of month was uncommonly not as in autumn warm and even hot!
(22.10.2007) Guidebook
Sokol
P.S.Part 1.
There are three alpinistic objects in Sudak. At first, it is mount Sokol, to which more than 40 independent routes are built (deion of which were collected by us), it is a unique situation in itself. Saying honestly, there are only few mountains like this one on the territory of former Soviet Unit.
Author: Alex Kuzminsky, Moscow and Sergey Nadtochy, Simferopol
(18.10.2007) NATIONAL TEAM OF UKRAINE ASCENT PASSPORTHimal Chuli is the 18th highest mountain in the world and is also notable for its large vertical relief over local terrain. The Himalayan Index lists only six ascents of the Main peak (7893 m), and 14 unsuccessful attempts.
(15.10.2007) 39 Ascents to the Peak of Communism Made for the First TimeThe main significance of the Peak of Communism nowadays – is to use it as a polygon for young alpinists in order to prepare them for storming Himalayan 8000-meter high mountains.
(8.10.2007) 39 Ascents to the Peak of Communism Made for the First TimeAgain at the bottom of the Peak of Communism lots of alpinists gathered. A team of Moscow “Trud” during the period 1-15 of August passed an outstanding route from the glacier of Beliaev along the South-Western wall.
úThe material was prepared by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
(1.10.2007) 39 Ascents to the Peak of Communism Made for the First Time63 mountaineers reached the top of the Peak of Communism during one season. Tens of teams stormed the summit from different sides. The most serious route was passed along the South-Western wall.
Author: Igor Stepanov, Sankt-Petersburg
(28.09.2007) Kyzyl -Asker Southeast face Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too range, a part of the ridge to the west of Sary-Jazz the summit is located in the main ridge on Kirghiz-China border, the face - sidewise at China.
Photo: Alexander Ruchkin, Saint Petersburg
(27.09.2007) Il Grande Incubo – Monte Brento - winterIn a distant land Italy , where white mountains show blue in the distance, and rapid rivers run in fathomless ravines, on a shore of a boundless lake with clear water, a diminutive town has taken shelter.
(24.09.2007) Ascent to the mount “Begemot” (“Hippopotamus”)The summit is located in the side spur of the Aigulax range. Approach to the route starts from the place for camp in front of rapids Begemot (about 755 km of the Chuisky high road). It takes about 15-20 minutes to get to the bottom of the route from the road.
Author: Parshin Anton, Barnaul
(20.09.2007) 39 Ascents to the Peak of Communism Made for the First TimeDuring the period 1928-1933 Pamir-Tajik expedition explored “blank spots” in the Pamir in the region of the ridges of Academy and of Peter the first, including all the region of the glacier of Fedchenko.
Author: Andrew Tihoplavov, alpinistic club “Odessa”
(13.09.2007) Nakra along the “Italy couloir”At the rocks we made the first station but, it was made mostly in order to clear our conscience as stones were not reliable.
(11.09.2007) Mountain.RU Rock TripTotal climbing time is 6 hours for all the participants. Sportsmen climb in pairs, belaying each other independently.
(10.09.2007) Shingu Charpa, Karakoram Range of PakistanWe are in Islamabad now and quite recovered from this ascent. And I want to tell some words about the new route we paved to the summit of Shingu Charpa.
(31.08.2007) Fragments of Freedom. Russian route on Haina Brakk.
33 pitches, 1450m, A4, 6bThe route leads between Baltese Falcon and Women and Chalk ones via a series of deaf cracks up to a huge two-sided Great Dihedral and further on it. Not crossing and not joining neighboring routes the line goes independently up to the summit ridge.
Author: Denis Savel'ev, Moscow
(27.08.2007) The Crimea. Mount Mshatka-Kaja. Routes passed for the first time.
Results for six monthsWe had an idea to climb via a big cornice to the right from “Rigiy Vival” (“Red fall”), photos gave us hope – along the center of the cornice a crack could be seen. But when we got closer we understood that it was not a crack but a track of a piece of rock that had fallen down.
Author: Aleksey Lavrinenko, Odessa
(23.08.2007) Angarskaya Wall, route “Acrophobia”.
(5A grade of difficulty 160 m 6c+)If you go from Alushta to Simferopol by trolley-bus and alight at the atop “Angarsky Pass” and turn you eyes to the west – in the direction of the Chatir-Dag, you will be able to see the Angarskaya Wall.
(19.07.2007) Shingu Charpa. East faceShingu Charpa (known as The Great Tower) is a 5600m Karakorum spire located in Masherbrum massif in Nangma valley.
(2.07.2007) Ilya MurometsA route we passed as pioneers along the left part of South-Eastern wall of the massif Ekaterinovka.
Author: Vladimir Markov, Vladivostok
(28.06.2007) Rocks of the South, Caucasus Mineral WatersIn the South of Russia there is one of the most beautiful places: Caucasus Mineral Waters, uniting 7 cities and tens settlements with advanced transport infrastructure.
(18.06.2007) I’ll never come back hereContinuation.
By friendly team we moved up to the mythical C3 that had not been made yet, it had been planned to be located under seracs under diagonal ledge.
(7.06.2007) I’ll never come back hereFrom the north the circus of the Annapurna is a gloomy gigantic crater along the edges of which ice falls, ready to fall down every minute, hang.
Author: Sergey Bogomolov, Saratov
(4.06.2007) The way we had usefully passed the monthWe started a day later and for the first day passed 11 ropes along the ice. The portaledges we hung at the beginning of the rocky strip. It was very difficult for us to make such a rush.
(21.05.2007) Why do we need compensatory holidays?
DuetNow I can’t remember how it happened… Either “allow me please to suggest you, miss…”, or “don’t you mind, Mister, if…” In a word, we come to a plan that in spring we all together will ascent to “Hyperborean”.
Author: Vladimir Belousov, Moscow
(17.05.2007) Ak-Kaya. Mountaineering and rock-climbingHave you ever been to the Caucasus in spring? As for me, I have not. I was there in winter, in summer, in autumn, too. And Caucasian spring remained “on a waiting list”.
(10.05.2007) The Peak Gastello – 4240 mReport of the team of Tomsk region about the ascent to the peak Gastello made along the glacier from the North, 3B grade of difficulty.
Author: Ivan Temerev, Tomsk
(7.05.2007) To the peak Volnaya Ispania (Free Spain) (4200 m)A wish to make an ascent to the peak Volnaya Ispania appeared long time ago. But sometimes I had no time to go to the Caucasus sometimes there was no company to join me.
Àâòîð: Mark Lavrichenko, Cherkessk-Moscow
(3.05.2007) The route we passed as pioneers
(comic story) While we were climbing, we were swearing all the time. There were as much grass and lively stones as you can rarely find on the routes of the second grade of difficulty, and our route looked like a wall…
(23.04.2007) Deion of the route “Khod Konem” (“Knight's Tour”)The route is located along the central part of the summit Zamok. It is positioned between the routes “Sokoliny” (“Falconine”) and “The first motion of Fantik”.
Author: Evgeny Poltavets, Kharkov
(19.04.2007) Kalymnos Guide-BookKalymnos is about 300 kilometers south east of Athens , and 100 north west of Rhodes . It has 15,500 permanent inhabitants, most of which live in Pothia, the capital of the island. It is well known as the sponge fishers island.
Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
(16.04.2007) 82 x 4000During this winter and early spring, from December 27th 2006 to April 7th 2007, I managed to climb all 82 Alpine peaks over 4000m high that are listed on the official UIAA. I am Miha Valič, a Slovene alpinist and an iternational mountain guide, and I had set my goal to climb all of them in 82 days.
(12.04.2007) Expedition To Karakoram. PakistanNow, the high-altitude mountaineering, with rare exception, develops in two strongly pronounced directions:
The first: commercial ascents on classical routes on 8000-ers. The attributes of such expeditions are kilometers of fixed ropes, tens of high-altitude sherpas and supplementary oxygen.
Author: Valery Babanov Photo: Raphael Slawinsky and Yannick Graziani
(5.04.2007) The most Northern Mount of more than 7000 m highAfter the year 1961 for a long time the alpinists didn't undertake expeditions to the Pobeda Peak . But, in 1961 a group led by Mikhail Hergiani made an ascent to the Western shoulder – the Vaja Pshavela Peak , and an ascent to the Eastern shoulder was made by the group led by B. Efimov.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
(2.04.2007) The most Northern Mount of more than 7000 m highWe were again on the ridge. It had got completely dark. The bivouac of our friends was about 100- 150 m below us, but we decided to pass the night at the place we were staying. We felled the ridge, made a ledge, sat down on it, having partially climbed into sleeping bags, and passed the night on it. The weather spared us: the night was frosty, but windless.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
(29.03.2007) The most Northern Mount of more than 7000 m highPart 4.
The bodies of our lost companions were taken down to the Glacier Zvezdochka on the 19 th of July and on the 20 th they were brought to the Base camp. We decided unanimously to finish the further work of the expedition: too heavy was the trauma we got.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
(26.03.2007) One must remember: 8-0-9-1 It's happiness! It's happiness when your tents stay under a serac, under a cornice. But I'll try to tell you everything step by step.
(19.03.2007) The most Northern Mount of more than 7000 m highPart 3
There had been no mountain higher than 7000 m in the USSR about subjugating which alpinists had any doubt. It had been made 5 ascents by different routes to the Lenin Peak (7134 m).
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
(16.03.2007) The Geometry of Rhomb or Impossible Is PossibleSergey was ped from the wall and beaten against rocks by the flaws. He hardly climbed to the station where he was caught by Nilov and me.
(13.03.2007) The Geometry of Rhomb or Impossible Is PossiblePart 1
Having passed the ice we started climbing along the narrow rocky couloir where the scraps of old ropes, bitten by stone fallings were hanging, some of them were simply dangling, got entangled on splits-off or got stick in some of cracks a lot of descending loops hanging along all the couloir (some of them consisted of one hook and a thin tape of rucksack, knitted in the ear).
Author: Evgeny Korol, Moscow
(12.03.2007) The most Northern Mount of more than 7000 m highPart two…
It started at about 11 p.m. The weather became terrible, by 2 a .m. heavy wind had risen and snow started to cover tents. It seems that people were in poor conditions (the altitude made itself felt), will and force left them. Only few of them could struggle against the element.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
(9.03.2007) Torres del Paine: climb and jump«We'd heard and known a lot of Patagonia , but the things that we could see eye to eye surpassed all our hopes, I mean practically everything: the mountains, weather, sceneries, style of ascent...»
(7.03.2007) From the shine of gold up to the spiritual povertyCompetitions separate climbers not because of bias of refereeing and other nonsense that are made the corner-stone but because of elementary bankruptcy of possibility to make the self-acceptance and acceptance of another's achievements.
Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek
(6.03.2007) Whether Miss Fame is so bad? The Zen Ideal is a man that lives in the world, but remains internally unimpaired from the world. Personally for me the idea to do your own bit in mountaineering aspiring to quality of realization, honesty, nobleness and not caring about glory is very kindred but if you became famous you can share your gains and philosophy with other people.
Author: Jury Koshelenko Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
(5.03.2007) The most Northern Mount of more than 7000 m highThe Central Tien Shan . Glacier Zvezdochka stretching for 25 km , the confluent of the glacier Southern Inylchek, goes up to the 7000 m high heights of the range Kokshaal-Tau.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov.
Photo: from valery Rozov's collection, REP-project
(27.02.2007) Additional comment for those who are flirting with Miss FameFirst I want to admit that a "naive" sticker was sticked on me several times. I'm aware about the boomerang effect of my essay and I don't want to act like a purist who is going to fight against media.
Author: Marko Prezelj, Kamnik, Slovenia
(26.02.2007) Golden thing
Gladiators and Clowns d`orSeveral people criticized me for participating in the Piolet d'Or ceremony this year. None of them were in Grenoble.
Author : Marko Prezelj, Kamnik, Slovenia Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
(8.02.2007) Piolet d'Or -2006
Ascents, comments of the climbersPiolet d'Or is a competition, whether the organizers will that or not. I came here not for the win but to touch base with the like-minded guys. Not official ceremonies in the closed-door halls but a general mountaineering meeting, as if all the nominees are congregated together somewhere in the mountains to climb hand to hand, can generate much more value to mountaineering.
Marko Prezelj
Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Photo: from author's and nominees' personal archives
(22.01.2007) Successful First Ascent of Shingu Charpa Peak 5800 metersShingu Charpa is not an easy mountain and imagining a future, I would like to attempt its east wall. This is an outstanding big wall, with an altitude gain of almost 1400 meters, and most importantly it also has a surface that will allow free climbing.
Author: Igor Chaplinskiy, Kiev>
(18.01.2007) Ouray Ice FestivalThis winter I seem to be one of those few lucky ice-climbers able to cast a pinch of salt on winter's tail and climb excellent mixed terrain, including not only naked rocks, but also is a lot of ice!
Author: Evgeny Krivosheitsev, Odessa - Ouray , USA , 12.01
(3.01.2007) Ascent to the Pole “Shaman” (massif “Amur poles”)
Part 3As a result, the route to Pole Shaman was completed in two day. The aim was objected. But downwards a reconnaissance to the “White Pole” was waiting for us. The weather was favourable. We neatly fell into a stripe of an abrupt change from summer to deep autumn.
