“Failures hunted us. And the main of them was the fact that I had charged my brother with the equipment for our expedition. Nikolay killed us, and I think he did it knowingly”.
Author: : Alexander Odintsov, Sankt-Petersburg Photo: Denis Provalov, Moscow
Now, when I remember summer expedition to Pakistan, many petty details have been removed from my memory. Only bright impressions rest in the head. Probably, only they are worthy of being transferred to paper… Thus, bright impressions…
Author: Andrew Murishev Photo: Denis Saveliev, Sergey Nilov, Elena Dmitrenko
Further you descent to the glacier of Lenin and go along the path along the glacier, then come to the glacier in its middle stream. Up to the coming to the body of the glacier, the path is rather good.
Probably, many alpinists think that the more ascents are made to the summit, the easier of access the mountain is. But this statement is erroneous and even dangerous.
From the Northern slopes of the Peak of Lenin a glacier of the same name with Western and Eastern sources, flows down, it is 9 kilometers long and the Western source is the main one. From the Southern slopes of the summit glaciers Bolshoy (in the East) and Maly (in the West) Saukdara flow down.
The winner will be chosen according to the objective rating: jury of the premium consists of the leaders of the teams-nominees. Each of the leaders votes for the best ascent from the list, but he can not vote for his team. According to the results of voting the winner will be chosen.
Certainly, we are going to make an ascent along the new route. Russian step should be left in this mountain region which is difficult of access but very interesting!
Traverse of the Bezengiyskaya Wall: Lyalver-Shkhara made on 17-22 July 2007 by duo from Saint-Petersburg, Russia: Aleksey Ilyuschenko and Sergey Hadzhinov.
Sector 2. Even interesting plate climbing using self-made points of rest with strips of free-climbing of 5c-6c grade of difficulty. On the first meters there is an opportunity to fall down to the belayer.
Authors: Alexander Kuzminsky, Moscow
Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol
Ascent in the context of the mountaineering championship of the Primorsky Kray on the rocky route “Mezhdu Ribakami” made on the 12-13th of March 2004 in the region of the Przhevalsky massif.
Part 2 Sudak is manifold. Besides Sokol there are a lot of interesting objects. So, if you have two free days, which you decide to dedicate to resting, you are lucky – you have a problem of choice.
Author: Alexander Kuzmitsky, Moscow and Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol
All the routes described below are located on the South-Eastern wall of the Sokol. It is so-called “the first sector”, the nearest to Sudak and CRS. Closeness to the rescuers, dwelling, water and comparative easiness favorably mark out this sector of the Sokol.
Authors: Alexander Kuzmitsky, Moscow and Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol
Jack Krivosheitsev:
As it was expected, the festival passed wonderfully, it is a pity that there was not lots of climbers in the Crimea in October, those who couldn't come missed a nifty show, especially because the beginning of month was uncommonly not as in autumn warm and even hot!
Part 1.
There are three alpinistic objects in Sudak. At first, it is mount Sokol, to which more than 40 independent routes are built (deion of which were collected by us), it is a unique situation in itself. Saying honestly, there are only few mountains like this one on the territory of former Soviet Unit.
Author: Alex Kuzminsky, Moscow and Sergey Nadtochy, Simferopol
Himal Chuli is the 18th highest mountain in the world and is also notable for its large vertical relief over local terrain. The Himalayan Index lists only six ascents of the Main peak (7893 m), and 14 unsuccessful attempts.
The main significance of the Peak of Communism nowadays – is to use it as a polygon for young alpinists in order to prepare them for storming Himalayan 8000-meter high mountains.
Mount Seldi is the highest point of the Western plateau of the massif Eridag - Iarudag, located in the Northern-Eastern spur of the Main Caucasus Range, at the border between Russia and Azerbaijan.
Again at the bottom of the Peak of Communism lots of alpinists gathered. A team of Moscow “Trud” during the period 1-15 of August passed an outstanding route from the glacier of Beliaev along the South-Western wall.
63 mountaineers reached the top of the Peak of Communism during one season. Tens of teams stormed the summit from different sides. The most serious route was passed along the South-Western wall.
Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too range, a part of the ridge to the west of Sary-Jazz the summit is located in the main ridge on Kirghiz-China border, the face - sidewise at China.
In a distant land Italy , where white mountains show blue in the distance, and rapid rivers run in fathomless ravines, on a shore of a boundless lake with clear water, a diminutive town has taken shelter.
The summit is located in the side spur of the Aigulax range. Approach to the route starts from the place for camp in front of rapids Begemot (about 755 km of the Chuisky high road). It takes about 15-20 minutes to get to the bottom of the route from the road.
During the period 1928-1933 Pamir-Tajik expedition explored “blank spots” in the Pamir in the region of the ridges of Academy and of Peter the first, including all the region of the glacier of Fedchenko.
We are in Islamabad now and quite recovered from this ascent. And I want to tell some words about the new route we paved to the summit of Shingu Charpa.
Approach starts from the place where to the Hergiani rock an earth road goes. Along the path you should go up, turning to the right, rounding Hergiani rock, then along the couloir, sometimes easy climbing, you should come to a big sloping grassy ledge.
The route leads between Baltese Falcon and Women and Chalk ones via a series of deaf cracks up to a huge two-sided Great Dihedral and further on it. Not crossing and not joining neighboring routes the line goes independently up to the summit ridge.
We had an idea to climb via a big cornice to the right from “Rigiy Vival” (“Red fall”), photos gave us hope – along the center of the cornice a crack could be seen. But when we got closer we understood that it was not a crack but a track of a piece of rock that had fallen down.
If you go from Alushta to Simferopol by trolley-bus and alight at the atop “Angarsky Pass” and turn you eyes to the west – in the direction of the Chatir-Dag, you will be able to see the Angarskaya Wall.
The idea of the route belongs to Terrorist, we made an attempt on it in January 2006, but were “blown away” by unusually strong and cold wind. And about a year later we tried to pass that route once more.
The idea of the route belongs to Terrorist, we made an attempt on it in January 2006, but were “blown away” by unusually strong and cold wind. And about a year later we tried to pass that route once more.
In the South of Russia there is one of the most beautiful places: Caucasus Mineral Waters, uniting 7 cities and tens settlements with advanced transport infrastructure.
Continuation.
By friendly team we moved up to the mythical C3 that had not been made yet, it had been planned to be located under seracs under diagonal ledge.
We started a day later and for the first day passed 11 ropes along the ice. The portaledges we hung at the beginning of the rocky strip. It was very difficult for us to make such a rush.
Now I can’t remember how it happened… Either “allow me please to suggest you, miss…”, or “don’t you mind, Mister, if…” In a word, we come to a plan that in spring we all together will ascent to “Hyperborean”.
Have you ever been to the Caucasus in spring? As for me, I have not. I was there in winter, in summer, in autumn, too. And Caucasian spring remained “on a waiting list”.
A wish to make an ascent to the peak Volnaya Ispania appeared long time ago. But sometimes I had no time to go to the Caucasus sometimes there was no company to join me.
While we were climbing, we were swearing all the time. There were as much grass and lively stones as you can rarely find on the routes of the second grade of difficulty, and our route looked like a wall…
The route is located along the central part of the summit Zamok. It is positioned between the routes “Sokoliny” (“Falconine”) and “The first motion of Fantik”.
Kalymnos is about 300 kilometers south east of Athens , and 100 north west of Rhodes . It has 15,500 permanent inhabitants, most of which live in Pothia, the capital of the island. It is well known as the sponge fishers island.
During this winter and early spring, from December 27th 2006 to April 7th 2007, I managed to climb all 82 Alpine peaks over 4000m high that are listed on the official UIAA. I am Miha Valič, a Slovene alpinist and an iternational mountain guide, and I had set my goal to climb all of them in 82 days.
Now, the high-altitude mountaineering, with rare exception, develops in two strongly pronounced directions:
The first: commercial ascents on classical routes on 8000-ers. The attributes of such expeditions are kilometers of fixed ropes, tens of high-altitude sherpas and supplementary oxygen.
Author: Valery Babanov Photo: Raphael Slawinsky and Yannick Graziani
After the year 1961 for a long time the alpinists didn't undertake expeditions to the Pobeda Peak . But, in 1961 a group led by Mikhail Hergiani made an ascent to the Western shoulder – the Vaja Pshavela Peak , and an ascent to the Eastern shoulder was made by the group led by B. Efimov.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
We were again on the ridge. It had got completely dark. The bivouac of our friends was about 100- 150 m below us, but we decided to pass the night at the place we were staying. We felled the ridge, made a ledge, sat down on it, having partially climbed into sleeping bags, and passed the night on it. The weather spared us: the night was frosty, but windless.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
Part 4.
The bodies of our lost companions were taken down to the Glacier Zvezdochka on the 19 th of July and on the 20 th they were brought to the Base camp. We decided unanimously to finish the further work of the expedition: too heavy was the trauma we got.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
The routes of Zailiysky Alatau in the Almaty region (descriptions are taken from the book “Over Zailiysky Alatau”, author V. Stepanova) with fresh photos.
Part 3
There had been no mountain higher than 7000 m in the USSR about subjugating which alpinists had any doubt. It had been made 5 ascents by different routes to the Lenin Peak (7134 m).
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
Part 1
Having passed the ice we started climbing along the narrow rocky couloir where the scraps of old ropes, bitten by stone fallings were hanging, some of them were simply dangling, got entangled on splits-off or got stick in some of cracks a lot of descending loops hanging along all the couloir (some of them consisted of one hook and a thin tape of rucksack, knitted in the ear).
Part two…
It started at about 11 p.m. The weather became terrible, by 2 a .m. heavy wind had risen and snow started to cover tents. It seems that people were in poor conditions (the altitude made itself felt), will and force left them. Only few of them could struggle against the element.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov
«We'd heard and known a lot of Patagonia , but the things that we could see eye to eye surpassed all our hopes, I mean practically everything: the mountains, weather, sceneries, style of ascent...»
Competitions separate climbers not because of bias of refereeing and other nonsense that are made the corner-stone but because of elementary bankruptcy of possibility to make the self-acceptance and acceptance of another's achievements.
The Zen Ideal is a man that lives in the world, but remains internally unimpaired from the world. Personally for me the idea to do your own bit in mountaineering aspiring to quality of realization, honesty, nobleness and not caring about glory is very kindred but if you became famous you can share your gains and philosophy with other people.
Author: Jury Koshelenko Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
The Central Tien Shan . Glacier Zvezdochka stretching for 25 km , the confluent of the glacier Southern Inylchek, goes up to the 7000 m high heights of the range Kokshaal-Tau.
Author: Kirill Kuzmin, Moscow (collected stories “Beaten Tops”)
The material was processed by Choro Sidikbekov.
First I want to admit that a "naive" sticker was sticked on me several times. I'm aware about the boomerang effect of my essay and I don't want to act like a purist who is going to fight against media.
Piolet d'Or is a competition, whether the organizers will that or not. I came here not for the win but to touch base with the like-minded guys. Not official ceremonies in the closed-door halls but a general mountaineering meeting, as if all the nominees are congregated together somewhere in the mountains to climb hand to hand, can generate much more value to mountaineering.
Marko Prezelj
Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Photo: from author's and nominees' personal archives
Shingu Charpa is not an easy mountain and imagining a future, I would like to attempt its east wall. This is an outstanding big wall, with an altitude gain of almost 1400 meters, and most importantly it also has a surface that will allow free climbing.
This winter I seem to be one of those few lucky ice-climbers able to cast a pinch of salt on winter's tail and climb excellent mixed terrain, including not only naked rocks, but also is a lot of ice!
Author: Evgeny Krivosheitsev, Odessa - Ouray , USA , 12.01
As a result, the route to Pole Shaman was completed in two day. The aim was objected. But downwards a reconnaissance to the “White Pole” was waiting for us. The weather was favourable. We neatly fell into a stripe of an abrupt change from summer to deep autumn.
